cman7 Posted December 24, 2008 Share Posted December 24, 2008 I just bought a 97 eat Legacy GT and I think it's having rear diff problems. As listed in a few other threads I've noticed there's a fwd fuseholder near the passenger's side firewall to test this. When i put a 10amp fuse in there no fwd light comes on on the dash. The car makes this grinding noise in the rear w/o the fuse and only the front tires spin right now (in the snow). Am I missing something? The PO drove the car with a flat for a half hour, then replaced the tire with a brand new one when the others were almost bald. At 165k I think this car has some more life in it. I've read about 3 pages worth of threads but haven't found anything. Thanks for the help in advanced! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted December 24, 2008 Share Posted December 24, 2008 First check all wheel bearings and cv joints and make sure that you have a symmetric set of tires. Also check rear diff bearings and driveshaft joints. Replace the rear diff oil and check the old for metal particles using a magnet. If it's ok then you have to try to isolate the noise -m take help from a friend. It's of course always the risk that it's the infamous center disc lock that you suffer from - in which case it may be easiest to replace the gearbox. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drcaveman Posted December 25, 2008 Share Posted December 25, 2008 My old 1996 Impreza required a 20amp fuse in the FWD, at least thats what the service manager used when they where trying to diagnose the problems I was having, under warranty. When my center diff went on the car the initial symptom was a bucking when I made a u turn caused by the binding of the clutch pack in the center diff. I wish you luck, Subaru drive train problems can get expensive quick. Keep us posted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cman7 Posted January 4, 2009 Author Share Posted January 4, 2009 Well I tried the 20amp fuse but still no FWD light on the dash. If i can get the car started later today I'm going to bring it to my mechanic to diagnose just about everything. The car's JDM future is getting further and further away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilverSeraphim Posted January 4, 2009 Share Posted January 4, 2009 OT: Just out of curiosity, could you put the fuse in for FWD mode and then your Subie would be tow-able by a wrecker with the rear wheels on the ground? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted January 4, 2009 Share Posted January 4, 2009 Nothing I would recommend. Better to tow it with all four on the ground (possible for MT:s and short distances at slow speed for AT:s). In all other cases - use a flatbed. I think that the fuse requires the ignition to be on, or else it doesn't have any effect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cman7 Posted January 5, 2009 Author Share Posted January 5, 2009 Yes, just to be safe I had a flatbed tow it. http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k148/coreboy7/suby/01-05-09_1406.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drcaveman Posted January 5, 2009 Share Posted January 5, 2009 Yes, just to be safe I had a flatbed tow it. http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k148/coreboy7/suby/01-05-09_1406.jpg I hate seeing sick Subaru's hope the repair goes well. Keep us posted please. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cman7 Posted January 6, 2009 Author Share Posted January 6, 2009 So I've received the prognosis. Needs new brakes, I'm not surprised, a tuneup, a exhaust, and a rear diff apparently. I'm not 100% sure he's correct about the rear diff because there's no power to the rear wheels at all. Has anyone ever heard of a car not starting because it needs a tune up? That's a new one to me. I've heard of a car not running well because of it? I hate seeing sick Subaru's hope the repair goes well. Keep us posted please. That goes for any car I've owned. However the worst feeling is when a car you own get's in an accident. Makes you feel sick for a week. What also sucks is the rear diff donor car sitting at that garage has been sold. So looks like I'm on the hunt for a diff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drcaveman Posted January 6, 2009 Share Posted January 6, 2009 I am not familiar with the diffs on you model, is it open or limited? Can it be rebuilt? The diff might be getting power from the drive shaft, but if the gear teeth are gone on the input the that power essentially goes no where. My old 4EAT impreza blew the center diff during a rally cross event, trust me if your center was blown the car would not move period. As far as the tune up preventing the car from starting I'm not sure. The only time my old impreza failed to start was when the cam sensor failed, but don't have much experience with that, someone else might know better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cman7 Posted January 6, 2009 Author Share Posted January 6, 2009 It's open. I'm not sure about the rebuild part, I might have to ask. I'd like to upgrade to an lsd but since I'm not mechanically inclined and probably can't afford a junked axle off of a car with one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cman7 Posted January 8, 2009 Author Share Posted January 8, 2009 After getting the car towed $80, tuned up $340, new rear diff $400(total of $820) I thought that would be the most of it. My mechanic called and said it's going to need a solenoid in the transmission since it's binding on turns. He said it's going to be another $320. Could it still be the clutchpack in the transmission? I don't want to get this fixed and find out thats the problem. My budget on this car is now very narrow and I can't afford to replace the clutchpack if it still needs work after the solenoid. What do you think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted January 9, 2009 Share Posted January 9, 2009 That binding is probably what toasted your rear diff in the first place! And the solenoid - I suspect it's the FWD solenoid, but I may be wrong. It's worth to investigate a bit more, maybe someone else here knows more about this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.