2006Specb122 Posted January 21, 2009 Author Share Posted January 21, 2009 Thanks magnetic.... I'll probably just do rotors and pads then. Save money to spend on calipers when they really need it. I think the new rotors and pads will work great and last for a while. Then later on down the road I can get some 2007-2009 painted calipers from the factory.... or if they are too expensive I could pick up something better in the aftermarket world. Tha'ts the plan! Thanks! I've also decided on some DBA kangaroo rotors with slots and Hawk HPS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2006Specb122 Posted April 25, 2009 Author Share Posted April 25, 2009 Anyone know exactly what the second brake reservoir is on our cars? It sits behind the engine cover... Maybe separate fluid system for ABS???? Never had a car with TWO brake reservoir before... thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackhore Posted April 26, 2009 Share Posted April 26, 2009 Never had a car with TWO brake reservoir before...And you still don't. Its the clutch master cylinder fluid reservoir. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2006Specb122 Posted April 27, 2009 Author Share Posted April 27, 2009 Finally figured it out... thanks.... glad the maint. manual doesn't talk about ever doing anything with the clutch fluid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paisan Posted April 28, 2009 Share Posted April 28, 2009 On a side note, you are supposed to flush your brakes every 3 years/30k as part of the 30k service. This is probably why SOA denied the claim or would deny the claim if the system was bad. Similar to someone bringing in a car with a blown engine w/o documentation that they had changed the oil every 3500 miles or what not. I was going to say that a few real good flushes would clear it up for you as well (of course this is a bit late in coming since it's a few months old.) -mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2006Specb122 Posted April 29, 2009 Author Share Posted April 29, 2009 Mike, Thanks for the info... My biggest problem was that the dealer simply sounded like they either didn't know what they were talking about or they were simply trying to line their pockets with dead presidents. To tell someone that the brake fluid was contaminated and that everything that touched the fluid needs to be thrown away. That will cost you about $2,500...... sounds a little absurd to me... I understand I failed to change the fluid at 30k.... somehow I missed it in my complete 30k service since I did EVERYTHING else which is probably more than 98% of owners will do for their car. I don't think it is quite the same as driving on the original OIL in the engine but I see your point. Good news is that the brakes haven't failed me since... I am starting to hear a little noise when the car is moving... leading me to believe it is brake related but definately not stopping the car like it was before the flush. I think at 61k and the original pads it is time for a change. They lasted longer than I had thought they would. Now I just need to gather enough money for the brake stuff.. no sense in keeping stock setup.... On a side note, you are supposed to flush your brakes every 3 years/30k as part of the 30k service. This is probably why SOA denied the claim or would deny the claim if the system was bad. Similar to someone bringing in a car with a blown engine w/o documentation that they had changed the oil every 3500 miles or what not. I was going to say that a few real good flushes would clear it up for you as well (of course this is a bit late in coming since it's a few months old.) -mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paisan Posted May 1, 2009 Share Posted May 1, 2009 Yeah I don't think they should/would hammer you on it, just saying that's their out in the event it got pushed that far. -mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snwsccrjc Posted March 26, 2014 Share Posted March 26, 2014 I'm having the same problem with my 96 legacy EJ22. The brakes will get stuck engaged after stopping. I wonder if it is stemming from the "hill stop" feature and my clutch. Perhaps the clutch isn't disengaging the brakes properly and so after I let the clutch out, the brakes are still braking. Three nights ago I had to leave my car outside of a 711 for two days because I could NOT get it to roll. I'm very interested to see what happened with yours. The other thing I've noticed (still need to drive more to confirm) is if I put my car in neutral and come to a stop WITHOUT depressing the clutch pedal and letting my foot completely off the brake before depressing the clutch pedal putting it in first, it rolls forward just fine. I realize this post is like 5 years old but if you do see this. Please let me know how it turned out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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