Check Engine Light Blink Cruise CEL P2006 P2007 P2009 HELP

[dcgt05]

Have been doing more research so thought I'd share. Dielectric grease is good for sealing electrical contacts that have enough pressure to penetrate the grease. The reason you'd want to do this is to prevent corrosion between the contacts. Perhaps this is the problem we've all been having - that the valves are fine but corrosion in the contacts prevents the electrical current from flowing properly, hence the error codes. For electrical contacts that are low pressure and can't penetrate the grease, dielectric grease is the wrong choice and you'd want some sort of electronic connector lubricant but given people's success with the dielectric grease, that seems to be the way to go.

 

I pulled all 4 connectors just to map error codes and plugged them back in without doing anything to them because I hadn't yet gone to the store to get the grease. Since doing just that, no error codes. Perhaps just unplugging and reconnecting was enough to shake up any corrosion and reestablish the connections but if I get them again, I'll be sure to grease 'em up.

 

If it's any use, the error codes I got just from unplugging the connectors were as follows:

 

P2008 - Intake Manifold Runner Control Circuit/Open (Bank 1)

P2016 - Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Circuit Low (Bank 1)

P2021 - Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Low (Bank 2)

P2011 - Intake Manifold Runner Control Circuit/Open (Bank 2)

 

Looking at the front of the car, Bank 1 is on the left and Bank 2 is on the right. P2016 and P2011 are at the back closest to the windshield and P2008 and P2021 are at the front closest to the grille.

[SeeeeeYa]

Have been doing more research so thought I'd share. Dielectric grease is good for sealing electrical contacts that have enough pressure to penetrate the grease. The reason you'd want to do this is to prevent corrosion between the contacts. Perhaps this is the problem we've all been having - that the valves are fine but corrosion in the contacts prevents the electrical current from flowing properly, hence the error codes. For electrical contacts that are low pressure and can't penetrate the grease, dielectric grease is the wrong choice and you'd want some sort of electronic connector lubricant but given people's success with the dielectric grease, that seems to be the way to go.

 

I pulled all 4 connectors just to map error codes and plugged them back in without doing anything to them because I hadn't yet gone to the store to get the grease. Since doing just that, no error codes. Perhaps just unplugging and reconnecting was enough to shake up any corrosion and reestablish the connections but if I get them again, I'll be sure to grease 'em up.

 

If it's any use, the error codes I got just from unplugging the connectors were as follows:

 

P2008 - Intake Manifold Runner Control Circuit/Open (Bank 1)

P2016 - Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Circuit Low (Bank 1)

P2021 - Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Low (Bank 2)

P2011 - Intake Manifold Runner Control Circuit/Open (Bank 2)

 

Looking at the front of the car, Bank 1 is on the left and Bank 2 is on the right. P2016 and P2011 are at the back closest to the windshield and P2008 and P2021 are at the front closest to the grille.

 

Isn't JDMChizad's multiple inputs, after following others' advice, sufficient "research?" A solution, is a solution.

 

I understand the relative lack of personal electronic experience, but I don't understand the concept that extended reading on the internet is going to imbrue anyone with experiential knowledge. It can get you in the ballpark, maybe, sometimes, but it isn't going to suddenly give you the ability practical hands-on experience will. I, on the other hand, have decades of experience with contacts of all kinds.

 

That means when I say dielectric grease in the TGV connectors will cure the vast majority of problems, I'm not leaving the door open for a percentage due to weak contacts that won't "penetrate the grease," LOL. Contacts that won't penetrate the grease are no longer contacts under ANY conditions... but you will never encounter those, ever. The percentage not cured by cleaning and dielectric greasing of the connectors belongs to failed motors, sensors, wiring, etc... but those are very small numbers.

 

The connectors are exposed to the elements, and despite good connectors they'll eventually need maintenance. Like the boost/vacuum hoses that need secured, connectors need attended to if one desires reliability instead of repairs. Your option.

 

While you're at it, address every other available connector. Your car will thank you... by being more reliable, longer.

[dcgt05]

For me a solution isn't good enough if I don't understand what the problem is in the first place. I mean, sure, if it works it's good enough in that the problem is resolved - move on. But I'm someone who likes to understand why things fail and why various solutions work. When I first got on this thread I was questioning if using the grease was the answer because there's a physical component to the problem as well as electric - was it the connectors or the actual valves? I also didn't know anything about dielectric grease and only after researching it did I understand its purpose and understand that if after applying that solution it failed, then the valves themselves were probably bad.

 

Knowledge is power. For those who couldn't care less about the why and just want things fixed, nothing wrong with that. But for me, you become better at troubleshooting problems and understanding more about how your car works by digging in and learning about it.

[SeeeeeYa]

For me a solution isn't good enough if I don't understand what the problem is in the first place. I mean, sure, if it works it's good enough in that the problem is resolved - move on. But I'm someone who likes to understand why things fail and why various solutions work. When I first got on this thread I was questioning if using the grease was the answer because there's a physical component to the problem as well as electric - was it the connectors or the actual valves? I also didn't know anything about dielectric grease and only after researching it did I understand its purpose and understand that if after applying that solution it failed, then the valves themselves were probably bad.

 

Knowledge is power. For those who couldn't care less about the why and just want things fixed, nothing wrong with that. But for me, you become better at troubleshooting problems and understanding more about how your car works by digging in and learning about it.

 

I agree, absolutely.

 

So, what new knowledge have you taken away from this exercise?

 

And, have you implemented that new knowledge, and if so, how?

[dcgt05]

I've learned what TGV valves are, where they are, what they do, and the error codes associated with them. I've learned that there's an electrical and physical component to them and that any problems are either with the connectors or the valves themselves. I've learned that the first step in troubleshooting them is to clean the connectors and treat with dielectric grease. I've learned what dielectric grease is! To summarize your first question, I've learned quite a lot which is why these forums are so great.

 

Oh yeah, I've also learned that you can get delete kits to rid yourself of these useless components and can potentially improve performance as well, though my car is under warranty for the next 4 years so I'll have to wait.

 

My codes went away after simply unplugging and replugging the connectors while I was mapping the error codes so I figure I'll leave well enough alone and if they come back, then I'll get back in there and apply the grease.

[SeeeeeYa]

I've learned what TGV valves are, where they are, what they do, and the error codes associated with them. I've learned that there's an electrical and physical component to them and that any problems are either with the connectors or the valves themselves. I've learned that the first step in troubleshooting them is to clean the connectors and treat with dielectric grease. I've learned what dielectric grease is! To summarize your first question, I've learned quite a lot which is why these forums are so great.

 

Oh yeah, I've also learned that you can get delete kits to rid yourself of these useless components and can potentially improve performance as well, though my car is under warranty for the next 4 years so I'll have to wait.

 

My codes went away after simply unplugging and replugging the connectors while I was mapping the error codes so I figure I'll leave well enough alone and if they come back, then I'll get back in there and apply the grease.

 

How do you get another four year warranty on a ten year old car?? Nevermind. NOMB.

 

So you made a start... then quit. I was expecting your information gathering to provide more, like knowing how and why the TGV's work. And, what actually goes wrong with them, and the consequences when it happens. Not just what CELs pop up. The consequences can be significantly more traumatic than a CEL.

 

The real disappointment was your last, where you chose to retain a probable defect instead of implement the solution your "research" provided. Reminds me of the people who have a hose pop off and disable their car and throw a CEL... only to put it back on without either securing it permanently or, more importantly, addressing ALL such hoses. The hint about the hoses I included previously you never touched.

 

Empty rhetoric, or empowering knowledge... one is easy, one requires work.

 

I'd be first to second TGV Deletes, but I can see that's never going to happen. But I will, pointedly, recommend new vacuum hoses all around (clamped or zip tied as well) because of the age of your car. You can lose an engine over some of those going bad or coming loose.

 

It's a nice car. Good luck with it.

[dcgt05]

You get a warranty on a ten year old car by getting lucky. Very lucky. Long story much abbreviated, I found it at a dealer in Ohio with 5,400 miles on it. With the mileage so low, they classified it as certified pre-owned which already comes with a warranty but allowed me to get an extended warranty. I practically doubled the mileage just driving it back home to LA.

 

Now wait a second...first you get on me about adding to the conversation with more detailed information rather than just taking the existing posted advice and getting on with my life and now I'm being criticized for failing to do the exact opposite? That's rather judgmental and inconsistent, not to mention a sprinkling of assumption tossed in for good measure. But no matter - I've seen other posts from you and you seem to be a great source of knowledge and well respected so however the info is disseminated is fine by me. It only serves to help us all and I'm thankful for that.

 

You call it quitting. I call it "if it ain't broke, don't fix it, but if it breaks again I know what to do", though you make a great case for preventative maintenance so perhaps you're right and I should go back and take care of it. Done.

 

You said you use LPS-1. I already own a can of Liquid Wrench Dry Lubricant. More or less the same thing, practically speaking? Would rather use what I already have. I also have some Radio Shack contact cleaner lying around somewhere. For the grease, I'm guessing you just lightly dab a bit across the contacts?

 

What I learned about the TGV's, but didn't share in my last post, is that they adjust the air/fuel mixture to help with cold starting and that they were implemented due to emissions regulations. Aside from that, totally useless. That's the extent of my knowledge. If you have more to add, I'm listening.

 

I got your hint about the hoses but didn't think that necessitated acknowledgement. For what it's worth, I installed a Grimmspeed EBCS (great easy mod!) and have all those hoses zip tied.

 

The car was thoroughly checked out at the dealer before I picked it up (or so they say) and as you can imagine, looks practically new inside. Hoses all look good - have checked several of them myself including their connections.

[dcgt05]

Dammit! Went back through all four connectors, brushed them out, applied the grease, plugged back in and confirmed no codes and two days later...P2009. ARGH!

[dcgt05]

Car's going to the dealer - codes keep popping up randomly so maybe the valves really are sticking. But anyone have a quick fix for this? Gonna try autocross for the first time this weekend and it'll be a real bummer if I drive an hour to the track only to have a fraction of the power typically available.

[BL5BO]

I also have a 2006 LGT 5EAT! Just got the same codes OP had. Been cruising up and down Ocean city past two days, with no issues. Started up this morning and got the flashing "cruise" light with CEL light. Cleared the codes, and drove the car after warming up to run an errand. Noticed DAM was at. 750 which isn't normal. But after driving about 5 min, DAM reached 1, and car drove fine back to the condo. Have a 90 mile drive home, today so fingers crossed no lights on the way home!