fishbone Posted November 20, 2009 Share Posted November 20, 2009 The Cobb Stage 2 map is, honestly, boring. I barely felt a difference from Stage 1. Safety is more important to me than boring but there was -2 degrees pulled on the Cobb map as well last summer when I installed the Perrin TMIC. Target boost was also overshot by 1PSI if I remember correctly. My mods are modest. Catless UP, stock exhaust with the cat in the shorty DP gutted, Perrin TMIC, crank pulley. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted November 20, 2009 Share Posted November 20, 2009 get infamous tuned. problem solved. I disagree. I will leave it at that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtbrjason Posted November 20, 2009 Share Posted November 20, 2009 Run the cobb stg2 and get some logs and a lv after a bunch of driving to check the health of your car. If your DAM stays at 1 and your fuel trims are normal then your current tune is the problem. If you see the same results that you're seeing now then you can suspect a hardware issue with the car I think. This should be a fairly easy test to determine if you have a faulty tune or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted November 20, 2009 Share Posted November 20, 2009 (edited) Sounds like a plan. I'm just going to have qikslvr tune me, he's a local guy. If we blow the motor I know where he lives and at least I will not have paid for the priviledge of blowing it up. I didn't mean to come off pissed off or anything, it's just that this has been going on forever now. I'm suspecting the Cobb tune will be just fine since my butt dyno definitely tells me it is not nearly as aggressive as the tune I am now. If that is the case, it will be a good baseline for an e-tune. At one time I was suspecting an UP leak since the shop that did the swap reused the gasket against my requests to NOT do so. However, I am not only hitting target boost, I am overshooting it Edited November 20, 2009 by fishbone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSFW Posted November 21, 2009 Share Posted November 21, 2009 I think it has something to do with DAM not being at 1.000. The table was likely populated with some positive values, but it could only go so high (due to total timing not being above what it could be with DAM being 1.000, which actually brings up other questions in head), then it may have gone down in 1.4 degree and up in .35 increments from there. That makes sense, thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted November 21, 2009 Share Posted November 21, 2009 Well, I got ROM Raider logger all set-up on my dedicated logging laptop and tomorrow I should have time to work on this. Further posts will be done in my Stage 2 contd. thread because I do not want to threadjack here. Thanks everyone for your insight and hopefully you'll have a look in my logs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spec.B Dream Posted November 22, 2009 Share Posted November 22, 2009 Got the logs yet? When are you and qikslvr planning on getting together? I would like to tag along if you guys wouldn't mind. Might be able to learn something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted November 22, 2009 Share Posted November 22, 2009 ^ I hope sooner rather than later. I want to test out my VAG-COM cable because this AP logging is very lacking. He's busy as heck. Maybe this long weekend. PM me your cell # and I'll call you when we meet if you'd like me to. Here's the thread http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=112604&page=2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted November 23, 2009 Share Posted November 23, 2009 (edited) I just remembered this. The AP has the ability to retard timing due to knock induced by bad gas. This should only be used as a temporary measure if you happen to get crappy gas, and in no way as a band-aid measure for a bad tune. The AP has the ability to retard timing by as much as -5 degrees, going by 0.5 increments I think. I'm looking to find out how this should be used, if I ever had to use this facility. Would one retard timing basically by however many degrees dynamic advance is being pulled? Another question that's been in my head for a while now. Can a knock sensor detect false knock? I'm not talking about noise perceived at low revs/not under load/boost which I know it is capable of sometimes picking up. In other words, could outside factors make the sensor think it is hearing knock? If one were to try to fix a knock issue, is there ever a point in time when one would start considering hardware and not just the tune? I'm assuming the car is quite capable at flagging a flakey/failed knock sensor and not just continue to operate with one. Edited November 23, 2009 by fishbone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSFW Posted November 24, 2009 Share Posted November 24, 2009 I've heard a lot about knock sensors mistaking rattles for knock. I'm not sure how you'd go about determining whether the sensor is picking up false knock though, other than fixing any obvious rattles. I found a company that modifies spark plugs to measure combustion chamber pressure, which would make an awesome knock sensor... but they want about $1000 each and that doesn't include the cost of a computer interface. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spec.B Dream Posted November 25, 2009 Share Posted November 25, 2009 ...Can a knock sensor detect false knock?... That's what I've been told, and I really hope it is true. My knocksum in romraider increments every time I touch the accelerator. I'm tired of this car and taking up Shamar's time, so I'm going back to stock for the winter. Next summer, I'm going to try to see if Russ can fab me up a header system like the '10 LGT and eliminate the UP that works with itsme's FMIC. I'm in love with the graphs of that spool. I'm also hoping I'll be able to use a more common style of turbo with that setup. I'll try to get a custom tune/learn to tune myself after that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted November 25, 2009 Author Share Posted November 25, 2009 That's what I've been told, and I really hope it is true. My knocksum in romraider increments every time I touch the accelerator. I'm tired of this car and taking up Shamar's time, so I'm going back to stock for the winter. Next summer, I'm going to try to see if Russ can fab me up a header system like the '10 LGT and eliminate the UP that works with itsme's FMIC. I'm in love with the graphs of that spool. I'm also hoping I'll be able to use a more common style of turbo with that setup. I'll try to get a custom tune/learn to tune myself after that. Log the OEM tune, you will drive yourself nuts there too. Good luck with the turbo under the motor. Our whole design (cross-member, oil-pan, among other things) makes it impossible. Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted November 25, 2009 Share Posted November 25, 2009 I can see it now ... All that knock was caused by a rogue pop-it rattling on the skidplate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
youknowit Posted November 25, 2009 Share Posted November 25, 2009 (edited) Here are my latest logs....with Shell V-Power (This is the second revision and the first one was done on a dyno tune!) Am i just being paronoid? Logs 5-6 and i think 7 was from the map that he made while the car was on the dyno.datalog1.csvdatalog7.csvdatalog3.csvdatalog5.csvdatalog6.csv Edited November 25, 2009 by youknowit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted November 25, 2009 Share Posted November 25, 2009 You're not in boost in most of those logs, and barely in boost in the one log that you are in boost. You never even go past 30% throttle on any of them. Those logs aren't very useful, except to say that you're showing a LOT of knock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
youknowit Posted November 25, 2009 Share Posted November 25, 2009 I realize this.......All of the knock occured in low load instances. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05pearl Posted November 25, 2009 Share Posted November 25, 2009 I always had low load knock. I drove myself crazy looking for loose parts and leaks, only to never find any. Eventually I just had Infamous1 raise the threshold on my low load knock detection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted November 25, 2009 Share Posted November 25, 2009 Where does that come from anyway? Seriously, my knocksum was 28 once and I didn't even leave my driveway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05pearl Posted November 25, 2009 Share Posted November 25, 2009 I don't know for sure. Shamar says that some engines simply are inherently noisy. I swear, I looked for every little rattle and smoke tested the entire system for leaks and still could not get rid of that low load knock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted November 25, 2009 Share Posted November 25, 2009 Don't throw stuff at me for wondering this, but I'm wondering if crank pulleys might induce some of that noise ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05pearl Posted November 25, 2009 Share Posted November 25, 2009 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
youknowit Posted November 25, 2009 Share Posted November 25, 2009 Roger that.......lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSFW Posted November 26, 2009 Share Posted November 26, 2009 Don't throw stuff at me for wondering this, but I'm wondering if crank pulleys might induce some of that noise ... <cough> Mobil 1 <cough> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted November 26, 2009 Author Share Posted November 26, 2009 Don't throw stuff at me for wondering this, but I'm wondering if crank pulleys might induce some of that noise ... I may put my stock one back in, just to see. My car can get tons of knock counts when I back into the driveway. FWIW I used to drive myself nuts trying to tune out this low load knock. I have since found that knock counts happen very quickly when I am slipping the clutch. I think that slipping causes the knock sensor to hear stuff. Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spec B Posted November 26, 2009 Share Posted November 26, 2009 For me, some days KS will increment up to 30 within the first 5 minutes of driving in the low load other days it stays at 4-5 for the first 1/2 hour...I just ignore it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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