ladysmanfelpz Posted September 15, 2008 Posted September 15, 2008 i put a weapon r intake in my 97 legacy 2.5 gt. I hear on the newer subarus intakes can actually be bad for the car and you need to get a reflash for it to run correctly. Do i need to get a reflash on my subaru? Should i get an exhaust too for it to compensate for the higher flowing air?
KAG Posted September 15, 2008 Posted September 15, 2008 I don't think it could be necessarily bad for your car. It's short ram, so you wont be getting the capabilities of a cold air intake, but you'll still notice an increase in sound. You shouldn't need to reflash it, just resetting it is recommended. Disconnect the negative battery terminal, step on the brakes for a few seconds, then reconnect. It might take some driving for the ECU to work out the new changes. You don't need to get new exhaust unless you want to. For a somewhat subtle exhaust, search for an SPT axleback.
jonklein611 Posted September 15, 2008 Posted September 15, 2008 + for the SPT axleback. Sounds great. Short ram intake runs on my car with no problem.
99SUS SFD Posted September 15, 2008 Posted September 15, 2008 Same for me...short ram intake, recet the ECU, and SPT axle back exhaust.
jonklein611 Posted September 15, 2008 Posted September 15, 2008 i have vids to show diff too Just intake: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z0CSFjqYezI]YouTube - Auto X[/ame] Exhaust: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ItpWZsntA0]YouTube - Subaru Legacy 1996 L Wagon New exhaust[/ame]
jrk2262 Posted September 27, 2008 Posted September 27, 2008 I bought a Weapon R short ram intake as well. I have not installed it yet though. It is still sitting on the floor in the box right next to me. I plan on installing it tomorrow. I will try the ECU reset as was described above. But tell me this...did I just spend $150 for a noise increase or is there noticable performance increase as well?
Guest LGT-NY Posted September 27, 2008 Posted September 27, 2008 There is a small performance increase, maybe 5hp.
icrackedcorn Posted October 1, 2008 Posted October 1, 2008 ok... here we go yes, it's bad. it wont hurt your engine, but it could get you in a tight spot and hurt yourself. back in the old days, the MAF was much much more prone to issues of resonance, where a resonant frequency would let unmetered air get by. on our cars (gen 2), the snorkus does a fantastic job negating that frequency. it happens when the TB is slammed open while idleing. you can feel it stumble or hear it sucking with no acceleration noise. that's the car running CRAZY DANGEROUS rich and the bounce back and forth between a state of super rich and waaaay lean. the car will BUCK like a mofo until you back off and build the revs back up It can be very dangerous if you stomp on the gas to pull out into traffic or into a faster lane in traffic. ask me how i know SRIs have no snorkus to help the resonance and the added turbulence so close to the MAF seems to make things worse then a CAI setup or a stock airbox w/o the resonator find the sticky over at NASIOC on the issue for the hard data (graphs and stuff) the data basically shows a voltage spike in the bottom of the powerband. the issue doesnt appear on dynos, but if you datalog real time, you can see where the MAF loses its mind (~0-1000rpms) obedience to church and state is subjugation to the unjust authority of men
jonklein611 Posted October 1, 2008 Posted October 1, 2008 ok... here we go yes, it's bad. it wont hurt your engine, but it could get you in a tight spot and hurt yourself. back in the old days, the MAF was much much more prone to issues of resonance, where a resonant frequency would let unmetered air get by. on our cars (gen 2), the snorkus does a fantastic job negating that frequency. it happens when the TB is slammed open while idleing. you can feel it stumble or hear it sucking with no acceleration noise. that's the car running CRAZY DANGEROUS rich and the bounce back and forth between a state of super rich and waaaay lean. the car will BUCK like a mofo until you back off and build the revs back up It can be very dangerous if you stomp on the gas to pull out into traffic or into a faster lane in traffic. ask me how i know SRIs have no snorkus to help the resonance and the added turbulence so close to the MAF seems to make things worse then a CAI setup or a stock airbox w/o the resonator find the sticky over at NASIOC on the issue for the hard data (graphs and stuff) the data basically shows a voltage spike in the bottom of the powerband. the issue doesnt appear on dynos, but if you datalog real time, you can see where the MAF loses its mind (~0-1000rpms) I'll vouch for that, it's happened before.
99SUS SFD Posted October 2, 2008 Posted October 2, 2008 Last night I was starting my car and I didn't hold the key long enough for the motor to catch. I tried it again a split-second later and the car fired up, went to 2500 RPM's for about 20 seconds, then came back down. It idled fine for a few minutes. As I was driving, I came to a stop sign and obviously came to a stop. The car almost stalled so I gave it some gas to keep it going. As I was rolling through town, the car stalled out completely. I put it in neutral, kept coasting, turned the key to off, then started it back up. Ran fine ever since...
KnifeyMcShanker Posted October 3, 2008 Posted October 3, 2008 That happens to me every now and then. Very infrequently. Throws codes about the Idle Air Control Valve. I've cleaned it a few times but it's never been annoying enough for me to justify spending the money on a new valve and.or solenoid.
99SUS SFD Posted October 3, 2008 Posted October 3, 2008 Fortunately no CEL for me. I got home and popped the hood and everything appeared ok. Still running fine. I think it was just trying to start it immediately after it didn't catch the first time.
streetlethal1000 Posted October 29, 2008 Posted October 29, 2008 Well Im not sure what to say to all this advice but heres my two cents. I have a weapon R intake as well. I have had it for about two years now. Within the last year I had a new hood custom molded with new intakes. Not long after all my work I now get CEL's saying missfire in different cylinders yet the car is not bucking or doing anything strange. Has the same power as day one. It only throws the missfire int he winter on the highway when its cold out. I have reved the motor up to redline multiple times for kicks ont he highway with the intake and never had a problem. Even now with the new hood I can still give it a boot and it will take off as decent as a legacy can. So I cant vouch for the intake causing any problems to me so far. Im still tryin to figure out where my CEL is coming from. I dont think its strickly the intake alone because I have had it on there for a while with no problem. The problem came when I had the engine pulled and the hood redone over. The CEL only comes on on the highway in the winter. So Im lead to beleive that its something to do with the air flow and the amount of air. My options right now Im looking at. Cleaning all electronic connections, cleaning out all vacume lines and then possible bring it to a dyno shop and see if they notice anything strange with the digital readings it puts out. I have my laptop set up in my car and Im tracking all the sensors on the highway, but Im not smart enough to know whats a good reading and whats not so it doesnt help me much. If someone can give me average numbers for all the sensors for what I should be seeing. I can report back and let you know what kind of numbers im getting with the weapon R intake. Any suggestions?
streetlethal1000 Posted October 29, 2008 Posted October 29, 2008 icrackedcorn.....what do you recomend then for people who have weapon R intakes? - get ride of them all together? - Add a piggy back system to the computer? - Flash the computer? - New computer? I sorta understand what you were explaining, but I cant say I have noticed something like that with my car. I am very keen on any sound or change in my car and with something so serious that you talk of, I think I would of noticed that. Maybe not, you tell me? Can you send us a link or add a lil more detail to your last post? thanks
jonklein611 Posted October 29, 2008 Posted October 29, 2008 It's more of you have to be aware of when it will do the stutter. I just changed how i load the throttle on a WOT start.
icrackedcorn Posted October 29, 2008 Posted October 29, 2008 i recommend keeping the pipe and reinstalling the snorkus & airbox with a k&n filter inside if you're so inclined. the pipe is where the gains are made anyway. the restriction in front of the filter is nothing and the pressure drop across (even a paper) filter element is similarly negligible obedience to church and state is subjugation to the unjust authority of men
Pawlwawl06 Posted October 29, 2008 Posted October 29, 2008 icrackedcorn.....what do you recomend then for people who have weapon R intakes? - get ride of them all together? - Add a piggy back system to the computer? - Flash the computer? - New computer? I sorta understand what you were explaining, but I cant say I have noticed something like that with my car. I am very keen on any sound or change in my car and with something so serious that you talk of, I think I would of noticed that. Maybe not, you tell me? Can you send us a link or add a lil more detail to your last post? thanks Sorry off-topic, but what wheels are those on your '97? Thanx, bai.
streetlethal1000 Posted October 30, 2008 Posted October 30, 2008 You know Im gonna sound like an idiot with this one. But I bought them at Town Fair Tire and dont remember what brand the rims are. The tires are toyo proxy's Im almost 95% sure. The car is out in the parking lot and its too dam cold to go check lol. They were not a rediculous price. Ran me around 1200 or so. I wouldnt recomend them. The polished aluminum on the lips chip all the time its pethetic. And trust me I baby my car. I clean them all the time. the painted part isnt bad, seems to still look good.
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