Inigo Montoya Posted September 29, 2008 Author Share Posted September 29, 2008 Oil Drain Plug: 33 ft-lb Transmission Drain Plug (T70): 50.6 ft-lb Now the Rear Diff is different depending on what car you have. (This info comes from the 2005 service manual as well, keep in mind) Legacy 2.5 L Non-Turbo MT has the T-type Diff: 36.2 ft-lb (both Drain and Filler Plugs) AT has the VA1-type Diff: 25.3 ft-lb (both Drain and Filler Plugs) Legacy 2.5 L Turbo MT has the T-type Diff: 36.2 ft-lb (both Drain and Filler Plugs) AT has the VA2-type Diff: 21.4 ft-lb (both Drain and Filler Plugs) Outback 2.5 L Non-Turbo, and MT 2.5 L Turbo has the T-type Diff: 36.2 ft-lb (both Drain and Filler Plugs) AT 2.5 L Turbo has the VA2-type Diff: 21.4 ft-lb (both Drain and Filler Plugs) PSU Would you mid if I put this in the Guide portion of the post? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psucaptainkickass Posted September 29, 2008 Share Posted September 29, 2008 Go for it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spect2k Posted October 3, 2008 Share Posted October 3, 2008 are these the same numbers for the 6MT? 3.7 qt front 0.8 qt rear thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Inigo Montoya Posted October 4, 2008 Author Share Posted October 4, 2008 It should be the same for the rear diff, not sure about the front. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j255c Posted October 5, 2008 Share Posted October 5, 2008 The diff is easy and cheap. Why not just change it? you talking about replacing the entire rear unit? How much do the ls lgt rear diffs cost? I cant imagine it's very cheap. 06 TB EVO IX SE stock turbo monster subaru hater Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rkl303 Posted October 5, 2008 Share Posted October 5, 2008 Is there any issue with overfilling the tranny? I know you can damage your engine if you overfill the oil but what about the tranny. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paradiso Posted October 5, 2008 Share Posted October 5, 2008 So which one of these 3 Torx do I really need? The $5 or the $60 one lol FYI, I bought a T70 at Autozone yesterday for 3.99 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rkl303 Posted October 6, 2008 Share Posted October 6, 2008 Is there any issue with overfilling the tranny? I know you can damage your engine if you overfill the oil but what about the tranny. Anyone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyShackleford Posted October 7, 2008 Share Posted October 7, 2008 Anyone? The best I can offer is what my "Subaru guru" wrote to me after the mechanic overfilled mine after a clutch job: Trans case is not pressurized, seal leakage/blowout is unlikely. Tranny vents to atmosphere, excess fill is likely to just be ejected overboard. You could suck some excess thru a 1/4" tube placed in the dipstick hole, but I would advise videoing it, you could win $10,000... Was car deadass flat when you checked is, you'd be amazed how the slightest incline can make level do weird things. Should be deadass cold too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubOperator Posted October 8, 2008 Share Posted October 8, 2008 You could suck some excess thru a 1/4" tube placed in the dipstick hole, but I would advise videoing it, you could win $10,000... It was actually pretty easy to remove extra oil through that dipstick tube using same "Monica" fluid pump that you have to use for rear diff. The 5MT listed as having 3.7qt capacity but in reality mine took only about 3.3qt to be at FULL. I only found that after I poured about 3.5qts in gear box. swapped longer and shorter clear hoses on the pump such that it could reach the oil in gear box and got extra oil out. The only drawback is that it may be multi step process - you have to pump out some oil, then take pump itself out , put the dipstick to measure the level and then pump out some more if needed. 2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K 2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubOperator Posted October 8, 2008 Share Posted October 8, 2008 btw, the rear diff plugs should easier to work with using lathe chuck wrench rather than 1/2" ratchet. I used 1/2" but it felt a little bit too loose. I am going to pick a 9/16" square lathe chuck wrench at some local place and use it next time. 2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K 2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spect2k Posted October 8, 2008 Share Posted October 8, 2008 Front: 4AT = 1.2 - 1.4 qt 5AT = 1.4 - 1.6 qt 5MT = 3.7 qt Rear: 0.8 qt all models. It seems from what I've read, that the 6MT doesn't follow these guidelines. The front is 4.2 (I believe), and the rear is 1.1 qt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 8, 2008 Share Posted October 8, 2008 FYI, a dealership just quoted me $70 for a trans fluid change and $70 for a rear-diff fluid change, not including fluid in either. I'm not kidding...$140 to do this. I'm going to pick up Extra-S in quarts now that it's available, a T-70 Bit off Amazon (anything else on our car a torx bit? I could get a whole kit for $35), find a 1/2 drive extension, and I'll do it myself in about an hour for about $80 total at the most. My main problem is, I only have 1 jack and 2 stand jacks...I'm thinking as long as I jack up the front of the car (diff tilts rearwards) I'll be ok to overfill the rear diff SLIGHTLY from not being completely even. And the trans will benefit as it will drain better with the front of the car being higher.... That's what I'm thinking Joe Wow, $70.00 for just the labor. I just changed my read diff oil for the 3rd time, 97,000 miles. I bough a qt of Walmart Syn- 75W-90, $5.47, used both my floor jacks, my suction gun and did the job in about 20 minutes. I used a 1/2X3/8 adapter on my long flex 3/8 drive ratchet to remove both the plugs. For you guy's that don't have good tools, figure it this way. Pay the dealer $70.00 to do this or take that money and buy some good tools, things your'll have forever. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeFromPA Posted October 9, 2008 Share Posted October 9, 2008 The tools are totally worth it, and I think Subaru trannies like fresh fluid regardless. I'm planning on keeping this car for 100k+ By the way, I went back on what I said above and ordered 5 quarts of AMSOIL 75w110. I can get the Extra-S for cheaper, shipped to me, but I wanted to try the thicker viscosity oil on our sometimes noisy drivetrains. It cost me a pretty penny, but I'm hoping it pays off. I have a little suction hand-pump (i.e. probably 1/4" ID to 3/8" ID tubing that you stick one end in a bottle and the other end in whatever you want to pump it into). Do you think I'll be able to make it work using that el-cheapo tool? I figure I'll give the fluid containers a soak in some hot water right before I use them to help move things along. Joe P.s. They also quoted me $80-90 per sway bar installed. I think I'm going to use the equivalent of that money to buy an upgraded jack/jack stands, a nice new set of open-ended wrenches, a few new socket extensions, and call it a day. Then I'll be better equipped for future modification Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dammitjim Posted October 9, 2008 Share Posted October 9, 2008 you talking about replacing the entire rear unit? How much do the ls lgt rear diffs cost? I cant imagine it's very cheap. Seriously? I'm talking about the fluid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subie_dude05 Posted October 11, 2008 Share Posted October 11, 2008 Do you think I'll be able to make it work using that el-cheapo tool? I figure I'll give the fluid containers a soak in some hot water right before I use them to help move things along. I used a $5 pump from the auto parts store and it worked perfectly. my pump stem was about 1" from the bottom of the amsoil container so i had to cut the top off. i didnt have to soak or do anything to my fluid. it works just fine at room temp. it is a bit tricky to pump and hold the other end while laying under the car. good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeFromPA Posted October 15, 2008 Share Posted October 15, 2008 Good stuff. Here's my link on changing my tranny fluid to AMSOIL Severe Gear 75w110: http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=98182 Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Inigo Montoya Posted October 17, 2008 Author Share Posted October 17, 2008 Hey Joe, Thanks for the props on the article, looks good and I might try out the new oil myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NatesGr8 Posted October 17, 2008 Share Posted October 17, 2008 Subscribe, since i'll be doing my fluid this weekend! Excellent writeup too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubOperator Posted October 18, 2008 Share Posted October 18, 2008 I used RedLine 75W90 for rear diff and 75W90NS for tranny as well. So far ( it was about 1500 miles) the shifting just gets better and better (knocking on the wood) and I've been through an AutoX event with new fluids. Good stuff (RedLine) and excellent writeup. Thanks again! 2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K 2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paradiso Posted October 18, 2008 Share Posted October 18, 2008 Is everybody using thread lock on the diff bolts? Doesn't make sense to me that it would be necessary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted October 18, 2008 Share Posted October 18, 2008 I imagine using a new crush washer would suffice. Can't see that thing starting to unbolt due to vibrations and shock but you never know I guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rkl303 Posted October 19, 2008 Share Posted October 19, 2008 Did the diff bolt have a washer? i don't remember it being able to support one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paradiso Posted October 19, 2008 Share Posted October 19, 2008 Nope, no washer on the diff, only the tranny. New washer on the tranny, or reuse the old one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subie_dude05 Posted October 20, 2008 Share Posted October 20, 2008 i didn't use thread locker on the diffs or replace the crush washer. it looked like a soft copper ring, not like the crush washer on the oil pan where it actually "crushes". i could be completely wrong though. i have been about 5k miles and no leaks or anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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