Mega Users seabass07 Posted February 21, 2012 Mega Users Share Posted February 21, 2012 I don't know that there's anything wrong with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 (edited) quite possibly nothing but I've had a few issues with dayco belts, so if that runs into the timing belts they make I don't want anything to do with it. RockAuto has the kits for ~280 for Gates and ~330 for the Gates Racing kit. Edited February 21, 2012 by B-BGTLimited Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
instantfury Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 Good to know. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 quite possibly nothing but I've had a few issues with dayco belts, so if that runs into the timing belts they make I don't want anything to do with it. RockAuto has the kits for ~280 for Gates and ~330 for the Gates Racing kit. And how much advice does rock auto give on these forums? -mike http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpghttp://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/141039922.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://upload.pbase.com/image/137566671.jpg 11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts. Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us. AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
instantfury Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 I ended up getting the ebay gates kit with water pump for 250. Figure I should do it since I'm now at 184k and waiting on a stage 3 oem fueling tune. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCHM1AN Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 I didn't worry about the timing marks on the new belt, it doesn't care where it goes on. Intake is on top, exhuast is on the bottom. Once you get the crank and cams lined up on TDC, it will be easy to get them back to TDC if one moves. I remember having to do that. Just make sure the cams are lined up at TDC before you put the belt on. You only need to clamp one side. I just used the C clamp, block of wood and Ford wrench. Not to sound like a total n00b, but can someone explain why we're only supposed to clamp one side? Is it because we're clamping one side and marking the other? If we're not marking the other side, won't the valves bend if the cams are off? I've got plenty of time before I need to do this (25k, or 1 year), but I just want to know how and why Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 You are doing it because the gears on the drivers side are in the middle of opening a valve so there is spring preload and due to the shape of a cam lobe the gear will just want to spin if its only partially open... clamping the to together positions the gears where they need to be so you can line up the rest of the marks and slide the belt on. The passenger side is not in the process of opening any valves so thats why that side will just stay where you set them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCHM1AN Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 Ahh ok, cleared up confusion with me and a coworker (how many engineers does it take to...). Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 (how many engineers does it take to...). Typically more than it should.... LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCHM1AN Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 LOL! It always does Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drew.plantage Posted March 30, 2012 Share Posted March 30, 2012 (edited) Has anyone made an or seen an instructional video for a 2.5i on how to do this (SOHC)? I have seen meaty's youtube video ([ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6mjCegTnB60&feature=relmfu]Meatys Subaru Timing Belt Guide (HD)(1/5) - YouTube[/ame]) on how to do it, but that is for the DOHC, would that video be similar enough to the SOHC to follow as a guide, or do I need to keep searching? Edited March 30, 2012 by drew.plantage Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 26, 2018 Author Share Posted February 26, 2018 bump back to the top. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gbendezu Posted March 15, 2018 Share Posted March 15, 2018 Get a gates belt, and a oem tensioner, if you get a gates tensioner get a second one as back up, speaking from experience lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 20, 2018 Author Share Posted March 20, 2018 Get a gates belt, and a oem tensioner, if you get a gates tensioner get a second one as back up, speaking from experience lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Its been said that you should not buy the Gates belt and kit anymore. The Aisin kit is much better. https://www.google.com/search?q=aisin+timing+belt+kit&oq=Aisin&aqs=chrome.3.69i57j0l5.5916j1j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 Just make sure you get the correct Aisin kit. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gbendezu Posted March 21, 2018 Share Posted March 21, 2018 Its been said that you should not buy the Gates belt and kit anymore. The Aisin kit is much better. https://www.google.com/search?q=aisin+timing+belt+kit&oq=Aisin&aqs=chrome.3.69i57j0l5.5916j1j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 Just make sure you get the correct Aisin kit. Sorry I wasn’t aware about the aisin. I knew gates tensioner had the tendency of running faulty but why the weariness with the belt? They’re still OEM are they not? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 14, 2018 Author Share Posted May 14, 2018 Also found out recently Gates makes two kits, one with cheap parts, one with good parts. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 19, 2018 Author Share Posted May 19, 2018 (edited) So I had my trusted mechanic replace the timing belt in the wagon last week, here are some of the old parts. Only the cog pulley makes noise the others are all silent and smooth. Just wanted to play with the tensioner in the vise. Took about 20 minutes to compress the pin. I did that while puttering around with other stuff in the shed BTW, I did buy all OEM parts which he installed. including the two short hoses off the water pump...just because. These are also the TB kit put on when I installed the EJ257 at 154,000 miles. Edited May 19, 2018 by Max Capacity 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willson556 Posted January 12, 2020 Share Posted January 12, 2020 Doing my second timing belt. First time I used the starter trick to loosen the crank pulley without issue. This time the starter doesn't seem to have enough torque to break it loose. Using my breaker bar with a long piece of square tube on it and the car in 5th isn't doing it either -- at least not with me at the end of it. I've sprayed the bolt with PB Blaster a couple of times and am charging the battery to try and get a little more torque out of the starter. Any other ideas if it's still not coming loose in the morning? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zebe Posted January 12, 2020 Share Posted January 12, 2020 Apply heat to the bolt. I have had success with a Benzomatic brand propane torch (TS8000). Hold the torch flame on the head of the bolt for 20-30 seconds. Use breaker bar. Crank bolt should loosen relatively easily. Use care handling the bolt, because it will be hot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willson556 Posted January 12, 2020 Share Posted January 12, 2020 Apply heat to the bolt. I have had success with a Benzomatic brand propane torch (TS8000). Hold the torch flame on the head of the bolt for 20-30 seconds. Use breaker bar. Crank bolt should loosen relatively easily. Use care handling the bolt, because it will be hot. Good suggestion but no dice. Got a MAP torch, have alternated 30 seconds heat and PB blaster application several times. I wish I had had a shop recover the refrigerant before I started this so I could take the condenser out and get my 1000ft-lb impact in there... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 15, 2020 Author Share Posted January 15, 2020 Have you got this taken care of yet ? If not, might be time to pay the man... 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willson556 Posted January 16, 2020 Share Posted January 16, 2020 Have you got this taken care of yet ? If not, might be time to pay the man... Putting it back together on Saturday and taking it down to get the refrigerant collected -- I had a new condenser and compressor sitting on the shelf anyway waiting to go in once it started to heat up. 3-day weekend for me and the shop is open Saturday and Monday so it's pretty good timing. Should work out well as long as the impact takes care of it! Will report back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willson556 Posted January 20, 2020 Share Posted January 20, 2020 Putting it back together on Saturday and taking it down to get the refrigerant collected -- I had a new condenser and compressor sitting on the shelf anyway waiting to go in once it started to heat up. 3-day weekend for me and the shop is open Saturday and Monday so it's pretty good timing. Should work out well as long as the impact takes care of it! Will report back. And the impact did it! I was just able to jam my Milkwaukee M18 Fuel ½" Drive Impact with an acquired for purpose 22m shallow impact socket in front of the radiator support. It took it off in 15 seconds. Crank pulley came off easily by hand once the bolt was out. Starting the actual work tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awfulwaffle Posted January 20, 2020 Share Posted January 20, 2020 Tip for those who might have a stuck crank bolt in the future. Loop an old serpentine belt between the crank pulley and alternator, and clamp the belt with a pair of vice grips right on top of the alternator pulley. Tighten the alternator tensioner, put the car in gear, have a buddy step on the brake pedal and have at it with your breaker bar and cheater pipe. I've gotten a crank bolt to pop this way that wouldn't come out with a 600 ft-lb rated impact wrench. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spoolin06XT Posted January 20, 2020 Share Posted January 20, 2020 Sorry to thread jack, but is there a link to the OEM timing belt kit? Pump, seals, hoses for the H2O pump, idlers, tensioner and so on.......?? I will be doing my timing belt in the next upcoming couple weeks and want to make sure I have everything needed before I start. Thanks in advance.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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