CTSubiefan Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 Thanks! I'll just do the timing belt kit. I didn't think I needed the oil pump but just wanted to make sure I wasn't overlooking something. As always, thanks for the info Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mccorry Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 I've done two of these now... not a bad job at all. The vice-grip trick works like a charm. On both jobs, I've had to replace an idler pulley.... a different one each time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted December 7, 2010 Share Posted December 7, 2010 I've done two of these now... not a bad job at all. The vice-grip trick works like a charm. On both jobs, I've had to replace an idler pulley.... a different one each time. I'm not posititive on how bad or good my Idler's were, but since I had the FBP full kit I did all the pulleys, the WP and the tensioner with the belt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2006Specb122 Posted December 16, 2010 Share Posted December 16, 2010 In post number one... what does TDC stand for.... remove crankshaft pulley after setting to TDC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted December 16, 2010 Share Posted December 16, 2010 Top Dead Center... Not to sound like a dick, but how good is your car knowledge? If you've never heard of TDC the I would ask around for a helping hand in doing the timing belt if you really don't want to take it to a dealer for service. I didn't find the timing belt hard to do, but it is an indepth process for a DIY project. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mccorry Posted December 17, 2010 Share Posted December 17, 2010 I second that. If you're asking what TDC is.... then you probably should fork out a few $$ and have someone do the swap for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chulew Posted January 2, 2011 Share Posted January 2, 2011 A little trick to remove the crank pulley is not to use a pulley holder. Instead use the torque of the starter motor to break the bolt loose since it's on at around 120ft.lbs. Use the socket (22mm iirc) and a breaker bar to turn the engine until the end of the breaker bar touches the floor. Then bump the key and turn the engine over. The pulley will clockwise but the bolt will stay stationary and break loose from the torque. Reinstallation will be easy with an MT car since you can lock it in 5th gear and pull the e-brake. An auto trans will require a prybar to hold the teeth of the flexplate when the pulley is torqued. This worked great! Why not 1st gear with e-brake for tightening? To break the crank bolt loose, I put a couple large screwdrivers in the access hole for the flywheel / trans case on the top of the motor. Those screwdrivers held the motor/trans in place nicely so that I could break loose the crank bolt. Where is this exactly? Top of the motor??? There are two sets of timing marks painted on the cam pulleys. White and red. They are about 1/2 inch apart and the factory indent is between them but not splitting the difference. Seems to me that this would indicate that the belt has been changed twice before (one set for each belt change). At 131k this makes sense right? Why would any marks need be painted on though? When cam gear is TDC, both cam pulleys are also TDC (both sets of marks are offset). The belt is OEM (Subaru printed), looks almost the same as the new Gates and I can still clearly read much of the white printing although there is some cream clouding towards the center of the flat side of the belt (indicating wear or maybe just smudging the print?). At least one of the idlers has play (I'm replacing all three). I am replacing the tensioner - it appears to have some discoloration just outside the blue ring (rust?) and also appears oily/wet in the well on top where the pin goes. I don't subscribe to the "water pump must be changed with the timing belt" mentality. Can someone explain why this is a rule of thumb? I just took the belt off last night and have all parts off/out. The timing belt looks almost the same as the new Gates out of the box (read more below) and I think I could even reuse the water pump gasket - that's how new the pump itself seems. The pump idler feels just like the new one as well. The gasket popped right off. Coolant is immaculate BTW. I'm tempted to just put the pump back on and return the new one I got. I'd only be saving ~$100. What's the danger if water pump fails first? This is a 2.5i BTW. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slvrlegacygt Posted March 1, 2011 Share Posted March 1, 2011 You do not have to remove the radiator to do a T-belt, only remove the fans and place the wiring connectors out of the way. After that the accessory belts are straightforward and you do not have to remove any accessories to access the timing cover. A little trick to remove the crank pulley is not to use a pulley holder. Instead use the torque of the starter motor to break the bolt loose since it's on at around 120ft.lbs. Use the socket (22mm iirc) and a breaker bar to turn the engine until the end of the breaker bar touches the floor. Then bump the key and turn the engine over. The pulley will clockwise but the bolt will stay stationary and break loose from the torque. Reinstallation will be easy with an MT car since you can lock it in 5th gear and pull the e-brake. An auto trans will require a prybar to hold the teeth of the flexplate when the pulley is torqued. The T-belt is easy enough, just make sure you line up your timing marks at TDC before you take the old one off. Take a picture to remind yourself incase one of the pullies gets bumped off. I recommend replacing the tensioner and do not compress the piston quickly as the silicone fluid can leak and cause failure. Using a small cotter pin to hold the piston it is the best tool. After the belt is in correctly and the tensioner is bolted down, pull the pin out and the piston will extend outward and apply tension to the bolt. Make sure you crank the engine over by hand a few times to make sure everything is in time. does putting it into fifth gear change if you have a six speed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 7, 2011 Author Share Posted March 7, 2011 The idea is to use the highest gear. So yea, 6th would be ok. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xero287 Posted March 9, 2011 Share Posted March 9, 2011 Is it necessary to get a thermostat with the whole water pump/timing install? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xero287 Posted March 9, 2011 Share Posted March 9, 2011 Nvmd, got it anyways. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xero287 Posted March 18, 2011 Share Posted March 18, 2011 WELL after doing this and failing miserably because I also had to do the cam seals, I have some great advice. If you do not have the proper tools to LOCK the cam sprockets in place you will be screwed, with that said if your not venturing to do the cam seals then go for it, just make sure everything is lined up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chulew Posted March 18, 2011 Share Posted March 18, 2011 Is it necessary to get a thermostat with the whole water pump/timing install? I reused mine with a new pump. Not too bad to replace by itself later if you had to (IMO). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mars_volta Posted April 23, 2011 Share Posted April 23, 2011 (edited) I finally did mine this weekend. I replaced everything except the water pump. I rotated the engine by hand and found where it was relaxed then I clamped the drivers side cams with a vice grips. After that it was smooth sailing. I took my time -slow motion- and was super careful. The old belt: http://www.sixthsphere.com/storage2/images/9a7iq2um5dxzi7cufstf.jpg Edited April 24, 2011 by mars_volta Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted April 25, 2011 Share Posted April 25, 2011 It looks like your guide was rubbing against it as well. Hopefully you re-adjusted it when you put in the new belt. -mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mars_volta Posted April 25, 2011 Share Posted April 25, 2011 I adjusted all of them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted April 26, 2011 Share Posted April 26, 2011 WELL after doing this and failing miserably because I also had to do the cam seals, I have some great advice. If you do not have the proper tools to LOCK the cam sprockets in place you will be screwed, with that said if your not venturing to do the cam seals then go for it, just make sure everything is lined up I did a sohc motor without the tools to position the cam, and that was possible. You can get it to work, it's just a bit tricky to get them to where you need them without a belt on them... Get a guy with three hands to help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted April 27, 2011 Share Posted April 27, 2011 We did a few TB w/o the tools. Now we invested in the tools and it helps make it go smoother for sure. -mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users paintpollz Posted July 15, 2011 Mega Users Share Posted July 15, 2011 I have 66k on my car, and will be doing this around 100k. I'm doing my homework now at work as we have literally nothing to do. I figure if I can do plugs, I can do this. I've read thru both forums back to back by max and pyro and I have a few questions. I'm trying to get the science down on this. From the compression inside the engine, it will cause the intake/exhaust cams to move when the belt is removed? This is why we put the vice grips on, clamping the upper and lower cam together before removing the belt? Do we do this to just the drivers side, or both sides before removing the belt? Ok so say I got the belt off. Now I gotta line all the marks up. Well if we viced both the driver and passeger side cams together, shouldn't those marks still be lines up? Lets say they arent, some members said once they removed the tensioner the cams slipped a little. Or maybe the markings on the belt arent lining up all the way around, so we have to move the cams a little (does the belt in the kit from FBP have marks on it?) Which way can you turn cams, drivers side/ passenger side, upper/lower, without bending the valves? Which one is the intake/exhaust cam? top/bottom? I would like to replace the hoses and acc belts while I'm in there as well. I'm buying the fred beans t-belt kit including water pump, i'll buy the t-stat and gasket too. Are there such thing as hose-kits? I know a lot of you are probably thinking "another idiot trying a DIY project that won't get finished." This is very do-able, everything is understandable until i get to the cams. I may not be an auto mechanic, but I'm not an idiot! I just want to make sure I understand everything before I remove the t-belt, and how to adjust the cams properly if I need to. Thanks! "Remember Danny - Two wrongs don't make a right but three rights make a left." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 15, 2011 Author Share Posted July 15, 2011 Hi, got your PM. First off I would not buy the parts until your ready to do this job. I didn't worry about the timing marks on the new belt, it doesn't care where it goes on. Intake is on top, exhuast is on the bottom. Once you get the crank and cams lined up on TDC, it will be easy to get them back to TDC if one moves. I remember having to do that. Just make sure the cams are lined up at TDC before you put the belt on. You only need to clamp one side. I just used the C clamp, block of wood and Ford wrench. We're kind of slow here at Hamilton too. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted July 19, 2011 Share Posted July 19, 2011 I used a small pair of vice grips... Just go very easy on the pressure... it is only a composite pulley and can crack if you crank down too hard on it. http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh201/3400modified/Leggy/IMG_6632.jpg http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh201/3400modified/Leggy/IMG_6630.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
instantfury Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 (edited) i need to get this done as cheaply as possible. Do these look right? One is an off brand one is the gates complete kit with water pump. I compared part and manufacturers numbers and they seem to match. comparatively the gates complete from fbp is 345. Thanks! http://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-Turbo-EJ25-DOHC-Timing-Belt-Kit-GMB-Water-Pump-/260702738463?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item3cb318181f#ht_3027wt_954 http://www.ebay.com/itm/GATES-TCKWP328-Subaru-Legacy-Impreza-Forester-Turbo-Timing-Belt-w-Water-Pump-Kit-/110789771521?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item19cb95c101#ht_1724wt_1187 Edited February 21, 2012 by instantfury Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 I personally wouldn't cheap out on something this vital... Send FredBeans a PM, they have a Gates kit listed at $345 maybe they can work on that price a bit more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users seabass07 Posted February 21, 2012 Mega Users Share Posted February 21, 2012 I would never consider an off brand for something like this. That gates kit for $250 is legit. It's sealed in a gates box and a good kit. I have the box in front of me as I type this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyMUN2k6 Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 What's wrong with a dayco kit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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