Max Capacity Posted September 20, 2008 Author Share Posted September 20, 2008 (edited) OK, Had it apart and the water pump installed in 3 hours. Now for the past 3 hours I've been trying to get the belt on. What's the secret? Just can't seem to get it on even with the tensioner and 2 of the pulleys loose. BTW that breaker bar on the ground trick for breaking the crank bolt loose worked really well. I have the timing marks all lined up but just can't get enough play in the belt. A buddy stopped by and we measured the old and new belts and the new one looks a touch longer... My son and his buddy's will be by later and another friend of mine tomorrow...worst case I'll load it on the open trailer and take it to my mechanic at the end of the street. I'll post pictures later. BTW the OEM belt on quick inspection looks great, no obvious cracks or wear. Edit 30 minutes later. Figured it out. Belts on. I'll explain later, No picture of that and I'm not taking it back off just for photo's Sorry... I'll rotate the crank 2 times by hand and make sure everything is good. Started right up took it for two test drives I'll check the coolant level again after I wash it. I'll be back... OK here we go. After pulling the bottom plastic cover I had to find the drain plug for the radiator, it's the phillips screw on the passenger side of radiator. http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/Picture059.jpg Here's what you see with the radiator removed. http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/Picture061.jpg Here's the 7/8 socket on the crank bolt, 1/2 breaker bar and pipe, I cranked the starter a bit and broke torque on crank bolt http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/Picture062.jpg Covered the above with a board just in case... http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/Picture063.jpg After removing the plastic covers here's the passenger side cam gears. http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/Picture064.jpg Here's the drivers side cam gears http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/Picture066.jpg Used this 5mm allen wrench and 8mm deep socket and 3" extension to break the two belt guides loose. http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/Picture068.jpg Water pump removed http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/Picture070.jpg Old water pump with thermostat, http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/Picture071.jpg Torquing new water pump http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/Picture073.jpg How I held the drivers side intake cam, also used a #10mm allen to move the drivers side exhaust cam as required. http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/Picture074.jpg New belt on, the trick I learned was to leave the belt off the bottom pulley towards the passenger side. After checking the timing marks I lifted the belt over that pulley rotated the crank one time and then pulled the tensioner lock pin. http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/Picture075.jpg Car in back yard after washing http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/Picture077.jpg Had the water pump in and torqued well under 3 hours. It took me about 3 hours to figure out how to stop fighting myself trying to put the belt on the crank pulley and it's passenger side tensioner last. Fought with the belt until about 2PM then decided to eat something, PB&J. Went back out realized what I was doing. I was trying to fight the preload of #2 valve springs instead of using it to help. I took the belt off the passenger side gears and pulley, set the drivers side cam gears at TDC and put the belt on and the lower guide. Fed the belt on the WP and crank pulleys, made sure #1 cam gears were at TDC slipped belt over them while it was below that bottom pulley, then just picked the belt up and over the bottom pulley. Put the passenger side belt guide in and crank belt guide, set the .019 gap or close to .019 on the 3 belt guides tighten them, rotated the cranks shaft by hand with the crank bolt and 7/8 socket. When I was sure nothing was hitting, put the breaker bar and 7/8 socket on the crank bolt and gave it a wack with a hammer in the off direction to break it free with out rotating the crank backwards. Pulled the lock pin that came in the tensioner, put the covers back on and everything else. Another trick I just though of was to remove the water pump then pull the two hoses off that one side. You'll understand when you get there. I put them back on before I installed the water pump. I also put a light film of silicone sealant on the metal crush gasket for the water pump. It actually help to hold the gasket in place. Also had to put 3 washers on the bolt that hold the small pulley on, the new one was shorter inside. I think that's everything. Edited November 29, 2021 by Max Capacity 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mojosvt Posted September 21, 2008 Share Posted September 21, 2008 great write up. So what did you have in parts in terms of cost? I am pretty sure my local dealership charges $1000 for the timing belt alone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dammitjim Posted September 21, 2008 Share Posted September 21, 2008 my local dealership charges $1000 for the timing belt alone. http://img187.imageshack.us/img187/8692/owlorlygv1.th.pnghttp://img187.imageshack.us/images/thpix.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 21, 2008 Author Share Posted September 21, 2008 (edited) On the way home I stopped by Advance Auto parts and ordered: Timing belt $59.51 Water pump $115.88 Timing belt component $170.44 Parts need to be ordered. I still need to get a Haynes book and anti freeze I ended up not getting the Haynes book, the service manual is much better, http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/ The two other belts were $21.00 at Advance. Everything came apart very easily I did spray the exterior bolts and nut's with WD40. But the engine stays so clean compared the the cars from the 70's. I also put anti-sieze on the external bolts before re-installing them. I would say $1,000. for this job for a stealership is a bit outrageous being as to they are "factory trained" they should have no problem doing this hole job in less then 4 hours. Find a local ASE shop and get a quote from them. I do get a good discount on the parts from Advance but still. Edited February 14, 2022 by Max Capacity 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catalyst Posted September 23, 2008 Share Posted September 23, 2008 Yea, I'm coming up on my timing belt (99.5k currently) and theres no way I'm trying that DIY! "This is an adventure." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 23, 2008 Author Share Posted September 23, 2008 If you have decent tools and a way to lock the drivers side cams it's fairly straight forward now that I have done it. The radiator and fans come out as a unit. The alternator and compressor belts are a piece of cake. The covers come off very easily the old tensioners are easy to remove. Water pump is easy but the hoses took a little planning, I slide the front clamp back got the hose to move, then removed the pump and held it out so I could remove the back hose. The installed the new one in reverse order. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT BL6 Posted October 4, 2008 Share Posted October 4, 2008 Now, i have a buddy who is a 07 WRX owner, he was telling me we should change the timing belts on the 2.5s every 60k, is that true? Does the timing belt maintenance also depend on performance parts such as Access port tune, turbo back and up pipes? I have an 05 LGT with about 68k miles and was thinking about getting myself the Stage 2 Cobb setup, (accessport, turboback) Should i replace the belts and water pump ect.. before i do the stage 2? I live in AZ where it WILL reach 118 degrees every single summer on a normal summer day, so it would seem smart to replace the water pump no matter what. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 4, 2008 Author Share Posted October 4, 2008 I have Cobb AP stage 1 since about 7,000 miles. It does not effect the OEM timing belt wait until 105,000 or some where close. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT BL6 Posted October 4, 2008 Share Posted October 4, 2008 So at aroud every 100k is regular maintenance for the timing belts? Just want to be safe and don't want to increase wear on these parts with power adders. But i'll wait till 100k. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twisted Posted November 4, 2008 Share Posted November 4, 2008 im getting contradictory opinions on this. Some say timing belt shud be done at 60K and these are supposedebely expert subaru mechanics who hv done all sorts of swaps and builds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robinlsb Posted November 4, 2008 Share Posted November 4, 2008 If you have decent tools and a way to lock the drivers side cams it's fairly straight forward now that I have done it. The radiator and fans come out as a unit. The alternator and compressor belts are a piece of cake. The covers come off very easily the old tensioners are easy to remove. Water pump is easy but the hoses took a little planning, I slide the front clamp back got the hose to move, then removed the pump and held it out so I could remove the back hose. The installed the new one in reverse order. Locking the cams is the key. If you can't do that, then forget DIY. "Belief does not make truth. Evidence makes truth. And belief does not make evidence." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 5, 2008 Share Posted November 5, 2008 im getting contradictory opinions on this. Some say timing belt shud be done at 60K and these are supposedebely expert subaru mechanics who hv done all sorts of swaps and builds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 6, 2008 Author Share Posted November 6, 2008 (edited) The manual say's 105,000 miles, replace the timing belt. May be they are thinking km. Edited November 6, 2008 by Max Capacity 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 6, 2008 Author Share Posted November 6, 2008 Locking the cams is the key. If you can't do that, then forget DIY. Yep, it pay's the have a great tool box, and be good at problem solving. I'll post another trick about oil filters i figured out last night. Couldn't get the filter loose on a car. not mine, that some oil change place put on. My son tried with a strap wrench and the filter began to crush. I tried the metal wrench and couldn't get it to go small enough. I have a number of wrenches, nothing seemed to work. I knew I had to make the filter bigger or wrench smaller. I found a spare silicone Vibrant coupler on the shelf. I slipped it over the filter, put the wrench on and thought the wrench slipped it was so easy. http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN0236.jpg 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tingtang Posted July 30, 2009 Share Posted July 30, 2009 lol... i know how it feels to NOT be able to get a filter off.... i remember one time on my acura i actually had to puncture a hole in the filter with a screw driver and use the screw driver as leverage to turn it!! great way to use your head max.... i unfortunately didnt have any tools at the time.... just a screw driver and a socket.... if u only use OEM filters they make another one where it goes ontop of the filter... and you can actually put a socket wrench to it and turn... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mccorry Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 If you have decent tools and a way to lock the drivers side cams it's fairly straight forward now that I have done it. Max... how DID you lock the drivers side cams? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted October 26, 2010 Share Posted October 26, 2010 I will be taking this project on tonight... 104,995 miles and I was instructed by the wife who bought me the car, that I will be doing the belt before I drive it any longer... LOL how can you argue with the one who bought it for you! I have my full gates kit laying out at home ready to go and the car is in the driveway so when I get home from work it will be cold. Now its just a matter of if I have the tools to hold the cam gear like you've shown. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted October 27, 2010 Share Posted October 27, 2010 quite simple to complete... I used the vice grip method and it worked like a charm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted November 8, 2010 Share Posted November 8, 2010 Just always make sure to get the tensioner. The belt doesn't usually fail, it's the tensioner that goes. -mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted November 8, 2010 Share Posted November 8, 2010 Oh yeah, I did the whole kit from FBP... Water pump and all. I don't feel like taking it apart again later for something that I could have fixed/prevented then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tingtang Posted November 12, 2010 Share Posted November 12, 2010 Yep, it pay's the have a great tool box, and be good at problem solving. I'll post another trick about oil filters i figured out last night. Couldn't get the filter loose on a car. not mine, that some oil change place put on. My son tried with a strap wrench and the filter began to crush. I tried the metal wrench and couldn't get it to go small enough. I have a number of wrenches, nothing seemed to work. I knew I had to make the filter bigger or wrench smaller. I found a spare silicone Vibrant coupler on the shelf. I slipped it over the filter, put the wrench on and thought the wrench slipped it was so easy. http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN0236.jpg is that filter for a honda/acura by chance?? and are you talking about the strap thing that you connect to a ratchet??? i love that thing.. ive gotten anything i wanted to get off with that thing... although it does sometimes crush the oil filter if your not in a great position at turning it but if your not re using the oil filter (which you shouldn't) then i dont see a problem with it being a little crushed... or am i wrong there and theres a reason not to crush the oil filter?? and im not saying like crushed like a pop can... more like a dent... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CTSubiefan Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 I have the FBP complete (w/ water pump) Gates kit sitting at home. A local subie mechanic suggested doing the oil pump while I'm in there. I'm at 99k miles. I was just looking at the FBP website and see the EJ25 11mm oil pump and a oil control valve. I'd appreciate thoughts on whether any of that is necessary or decent preventative maintenance for the long haul. Also, have any of you gone to the 11mm oil pump (08+ STI) from our 10mm pump? or replaced the OCV? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 I did not do my oil pump when I did my timing setup. I've heard the statements of doing both the tensioner and waterpump while your in there... but now the oil pump too? Sounds like just another way for a shop to get more coin for the work and replace parts that don't need replacing, OR not replace them and say they did. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CTSubiefan Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 Yeah, I don't know if the oil pump is a weak point on modified WRX's, which this shop does a great deal of. I haven't heard of oil pump issues on our cars but thought I'd ask around. I was a little intrigued by FBP describing the oil control valve as a possible cause of stuttering and/or stalling as I have heard of and experienced that. Mine was fixed by raising the idle rpm's with my AP. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 I wouldn't do the oil pump unless you are pushing big hp and you road race your car. Water pump is a no brainer cause your labor charge doesn't change. -mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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