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Sound Deadening FAQ


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  • 2 weeks later...
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Here's an interesting site that may help you make a decision on what to buy when you want to do some sound deadening on your car.

 

Sound Deadener Showdown

 

 

I think I clicked on this link some time ago but forgot...a lot of the things seem deja vu. If I remember correctly, there was a site very similiar to this that stated it is not needed to cover everything but to cover strategically where sound comes in the most. If anyone can correct me that'd be great. :) All good information though, I will need to re-read this thread and this one link.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Depending on which route you go, you won't have any problem trying to figure out where to cover "strategically." I bought a roll of the RAAMatt and was able to deaden the inner and outer shell of all my doors (liberally) as well as the whole interior of my trunk, and I still had some left over. The stuff is really easy to work with as well.
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Depending on which route you go, you won't have any problem trying to figure out where to cover "strategically." I bought a roll of the RAAMatt and was able to deaden the inner and outer shell of all my doors (liberally) as well as the whole interior of my trunk, and I still had some left over. The stuff is really easy to work with as well.

 

I need to read thsoe articles again cause I know a lot of people were saying dynamat was overrated, etc etc... good to know of alternatives. :)

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  • 1 month later...

Two quick questions:

 

1 - I just want to throw some sound deadening material (RAAMmat) in the front driver's side and passenger's side footwell. Is it possible to do this without removing the seats? I haven't actually gone out and played with it yet, so I thought I'd ask.

 

2 - What is the best method for sticking the sound damping material to the trunk/rear bench seat interface? My question assumes that there is carpet on the inside of the trunk in this location, so sticking it on the trunk side is out of the question. I guess I never bothered to look :icon_roll

The Dude - Two inches and counting...:lol:
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  • 4 months later...
Im an A/V enthusiast & have been for years. Now call me crazy, but one of the best sound/resonance deadeners i've ever used (believe it or not) is spray on bedliner. It takes some effort as far as prep is concerned, but it is way cheaper than Dynamat, easier to apply in smaller areas (spray or roll it on) & helps prevent rust too!
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  • 4 weeks later...
You can line the inside of the trunk with shit and it would deaden the sound. Basically anything stuck to the sheet metal will do. There's no getting around the fact that cars are utter shit when it comes to acoustics.
OBAMA......One Big Ass Mistake America!
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  • 3 weeks later...

I do it all 4 doors. And...I just win a First Premium on the Sound Quality Competition. :)I

The configuration it's very simple:

- amplifier Focal 4.75;

- front boxes Focal Polyglass 165V1;

- back boxes Focal Polyglass 165CV1;

- signal adapter;

- 0AWG plus cable;

- stock head unit.

cupa1.thumb.jpg.1a60745b35ba6482713c70cc2e0b7989.jpg

cupa2.jpg.30b3725ecd1013905e857fe3c8bcff51.jpg

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I found the main spots of rattles in my car, the headliner by the sunroof switch rattles, the headliner at the back rattles, the entire rear deck rattles and the rear seats rattle..

 

Could somebody please advise on what the best materials would be to get for these issues?

If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough. - Mario Andretti
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  • 3 weeks later...
I have finished my install of RaamMat on the doors of my LGT. Under/behind the rear sets and the rear deck are next. Beyond these areas, are there any more places that are significant sources of noise?
The Dude - Two inches and counting...:lol:
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I have finished my install of RaamMat on the doors of my LGT. Under/behind the rear sets and the rear deck are next. Beyond these areas, are there any more places that are significant sources of noise?

How is this working out so far?

:spin:
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How is this working out so far?

 

I haven't had a chance to check it out on the highways, but the doors pass the "knock test" with flying colors. I tap on the exterior of them and the sound is much lower in frequency, and doesn't resonate nearly as bad.

 

Just finished the install on the rear seats and rear deck. One item of note: the only thing separating the rear seat cushons from the trunk is a piece of corrugated plastic that resonates like a mofo :eek: I applied plenty of RaaMMat to these panels, though I really should have glued some aluminum panels in there to give it some added stiffness. Pay special attention to this area, as I think it could be a source of significant noise.

 

Driving impressions to follow later in the week.

The Dude - Two inches and counting...:lol:
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I haven't had a chance to check it out on the highways, but the doors pass the "knock test" with flying colors. I tap on the exterior of them and the sound is much lower in frequency, and doesn't resonate nearly as bad.

 

Just finished the install on the rear seats and rear deck. One item of note: the only thing separating the rear seat cushons from the trunk is a piece of corrugated plastic that resonates like a mofo :eek: I applied plenty of RaaMMat to these panels, though I really should have glued some aluminum panels in there to give it some added stiffness. Pay special attention to this area, as I think it could be a source of significant noise.

 

Driving impressions to follow later in the week.

 

Eeek, that would explain why my two 12" JL's rattle the shit out of the backseat

If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough. - Mario Andretti
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Ok, after spending some time on the roads, here are my impressions:

 

After putting about 50sf. of RaaMMat BXT in my car, I can say that it made a difference. Not night-and-day mind you, but it was not insignificant. The overall noise in the cabin is only slightly lower, but the frequency of the noise is much lower. I think that this lower frequency is a lot more tolerable than what I was hearing before. This amounts to a perceived reduction in noise. Highly recommended.

 

I have used it on the following areas:

- all doors (placing it directly on the exterior skin - yes reach through the panel and put it on there - it makes a difference. Also cut pieces of aluminum to fit in the holes in the interior metal door skin to block noise further)

- rear seat/trunk interface (remove the rear seat bottom and seatback and put it on the plastic panels that separate the cabin from the trunk. I recommend sticking sheets of aluminum on the plastic for added stiffness - this will also make a significant difference)

-rear deck (on the underside of it, the side that can be accessed via the trunk)

 

EDIT: Total time to apply on all surfaces: 6 hours including ripping all of the trim pieces out.

The Dude - Two inches and counting...:lol:
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Eeek, that would explain why my two 12" JL's rattle the shit out of the backseat

 

If you are running subs back there, I would absolutely brace that area. Get some sheets of aluminum and stick them to the plastic panels, and cover it all in sound deadening material.

 

Do the "rap test" and just whack the panel (from the trunk side) to check the reduction in resonance. The difference is like night and day!

The Dude - Two inches and counting...:lol:
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