SPEC clutch install problems

[woodurb]

I have installed a SPEC stage 2 clutch & spec flywheel. i cannot get the clutch to disengage. i have adjusted the clutch adjustment rod inside the car and it still won't disengage. any ideas?

[ehsnils]

Are you sure that the clutch bearing is matched to the clutch?

 

I did a clutch replacement once and had to replace the bearing too.

The new bearing was completely different from the old.

 

Other items are bleeding of the clutch hydraulic, correct positioning of the clutch arm. It may even be that you need a different arm when you have a different clutch.

 

Extremely stupid question - you didn't mount the flywheel backwards with the wrong side facing the clutch?

[woodurb]

The whole clutch kit (including flywheel) were part of a kit from spec. The pilot bearing, flywheel, clutch disc, pressure plate & throw out bearing were all in this kit.

the clutch fluid system has been bleed 3-4 times.

you literally cannot install the flywheel backwards.

you can install the clutch disc backwards, but i took a pic (the one shown above) and it looks to be correct & it was not hard to install the PP at all.

 

I remember the stock clutch being a lil springy when i drove it. but the clutch disc was almost down to the rivets too so....?

[ehsnils]

And you are sure you did get the correct clutch kit.

 

Earlier Subarus had a cable operated clutch.

 

At least it seems to me that something has to be incorrect, but not being able to do a physical detailed study of the components it's hard to say what's wrong.

[qikslvr]

Try pushing the pedal in about 3/4 of the way and slowely go further down from there. When mine was first installed; if I pushed the pedal all the way to the floor, you couldn't get the car out of gear becuase it was "overthrowing". You probably acutally need to make the pedal throw shorter rather than longer. If you adjust the rod above the gas pedal; you also need to adjust the switch at the top of the clutch pedal.

I had to adjust my cluth pedal travel at least a half dozen times during the break in period. Once we get your pedal working properly; we will work on the squeal that will probably develop with the car in neutral and the clutch out. I've had my SPEC Stg2 and LWFW in for about 6 months now, so I 've been there.

[ItalynStylion]

Did you bleed the clutch line? This happened to me when I changed the clutch fluid in my IS300. You have to get the air out of the system first before it will build enough pressure to release the clutch.

[woodurb]

ok, so here are all the things i have tried to fix my clutch not disengaging.

removal of trans & clutch to ensure proper disc install & inspect all parts.

bleeding of clutch master & slave cylinder several times, before & after clutch pedal adjustment both in & out.

the only thing i can think of is a bent clutch fork, but it looked fine? has ne1 ever had this b4?

 

quickslvr: i have adjusted the clutch pedal numerous times. how far did you have to adjust it from stock right after your clutch install?

[qikslvr]

I had to shorten the throw by almost an inch. Mine would way overshoot the sweetspot. When I first got in it at the dealer; I couldn't get it in gear. I could shut the car off and put it in gear and re-start the car; but then I couldn't pull it back out of gear. I would have to stop short of the floor when I pressed the pedal.

Try starting the car in neutral and lightly push the shifter towards first and start pushing the pedal down slowly until it allows the shifter to go into first. You might find that it will engage and dis-engage with the pedal between 1/2 way and 3/4 of the way depressed. If not; take the intercooler off and have someone press the pedal so you can watch the clutch fork travel to see how far it's moving. The only other thing I can think of is that the TOB isn't "clipped" to the clutch fork properly.

 

Here are the pedal adjustment specs from the OE shop manual:

 

1. Slide the seat to the 7th notch back from the front.

2. Measure from the curve at the top/front of the seat to the pedal while released.

3. Press the pedal to the floor and measure again from same spot on seat.

4. The difference between the 1st and 2nd measure should be 135-140mm or 5.31-5.51 inches of travel.

 

Check this and see what you come up with and report back. Again my pedal travel was way too long at first. The clutch is a pretty basic part. There aren't too many variables to mess with.

 

Questions:

1. Did the PP fingers ALL raise evenly when you tightened the PP to the FW?

2. What is the clutch pedal travel distance?

3. Is the slave cylinder actually pushing the clutch fork?

4. Is the TOB clipped to the fork?

5. Does the pedal feel right? (no free play up top and not spongy or weak)

6. Has the pedal stuck to the floor when pressing it(other than bleeding)?

7. Are you getting any bad noise or vibes from the clutch when released in neutral?

 

I know it's frustrating, but if it doesn't sound like it's going to come apart; it probably just a matter of adjustment.

[woodurb]

pedal hieght does not seem to be the awnser.

 

i called spec again & they want me to measure the thickness of the clutch disc. which means taking the trans out for the 3rd time.

 

yes all the fingers on thepp lined up fine

slave cylinder is working as designed

tob is attached properly

the pedal feels great actually & has never stuck to the floor except when bleeding.

i cannot hear any noise except for the chirping you taked about from the clearance between the fork & slave rod.

[ehsnils]

Try this then:

 

Remove the slave cylinder and rod and then try to push the fork by hand to get the position where the bearing starts to press upon the clutch spring fingers. How far will you be able to push the fork?

 

1. Not at all?

2. All the way back?

3. To a position in the middle?

 

1 and 2 are BAD, 3 means that you haven't got the correct adjustment of the slave cylinder pushrod.

[woodurb]

the 2005 legacy gt does not have a slave cylinder adj.

it does have a clutch pedal height adj that i been playing with for two days now

[ehsnils]

OK, but maybe you should perform the fork check anyway just to verify that the fork catches on at a reasonable position.

 

If the clutch fork works differently from the slave cylinder pin it may be possible that you have to make a modification, maybe by replacing the pin. When I changed clutch on a Volvo I had I had to make a new pin. But in that case the pin wasn't fixed to the slave cylinder but only held in place by the protection rubber.

 

From what I can see in the pictures I have there are at least two completely different clutch release bearings that are used for the clutch.

 

Is the clutch fork pivoting around an axle or is it around a ballstud? There are at least those two alternatives to select between. And the bearing is different depending on the fork type.

 

The full stroke of the clutch pedal with original clutch shall be 130 to 135 mm. Also bweare that if you misadjust the clutch pedal it may mean that you never relieve the pressure on the slave cylinder, which can have bad side-effects like popping out the piston of the slave cylinder or applying a constant load on the release bearing.

 

Another evil question is if the clutch disc is mounted correctly so it isn't flipped with the wrong side facing the gearbox. If it isn't symmetrical it may hook on to the flywheel bolts. (I can't tell from the pictures I have if that's a possibility.) Also make sure that the heads of the flywheel bolts doesn't interfere with the clutch. Watch out for wrong thickness of washers too. Or the opposite that the fingers of the clutch grips onto the clutch disc.

 

In any case you will have to disassemble the whole thing again. Check for any wear that may have occurred. Also check that the clutch disc diameter matches the flywheel and the pressure plate so it doesn't grip onto the assembly or other part.

 

I know that some of these questions and statements may seem obvious, but it's easy to forget some details.

 

And don't forget to check the pilot bearing so that it isn't the problem. It may be a truly stupid detail if you have a crack in it that causes it to lock up as soon as you insert the gearbox axle.

[qikslvr]

Did you use the pilot bearing that was already installed in the flywheel or did you put the one in that came with the clutch pack?

Check it(I'm sure you have already), the one that was in my FW wasn't pressed in all the way when it arrived.

 

Just to make sure my part numbers on the white sticky tag on the vacuum wrap were:

Spec Stage 2 Clutch Kit ~ Part #SUS252

Spec Lightweight Flywheel ~ Part#SU25A

 

Lets check the function of the master/slave cylinder. With the intercooler off; use your hand to push the clutch fork towards the front of the car and watch the fluid in the master cylinder. If it goes up everything should be good in that system.

Other than that I would check the thickness of the disc and get with SPEC. I know the thickness of the total assembly is off by a little and is the cause of the chirp, but not off by enough to cause engagement issues. Who knows; it could either be the wrong disc or a bent fork. I have heard of both happening on the LGT's.

[ehsnils]

Any success with that clutch?

[rony]

Order the $14 clutch fork and find out..

[qikslvr]

Bump for an update.

[woodurb]

I have pulled the clutch again & ordered a fork & there is no measureable diff or visual diff in the fork at all. i have measured the slave travel when installed & it was about 3/4 ". which should be more than enough. i have also measured the clutch & spec says that it was installed right & the clutch is fine. but this is the only part that has been replaced ( clutch disc, flywheel, pp, & release bearing.)

i had to install the pilot bearing into the flywheel & it fits flush & looks correct.

[Cklenke83]

I had the same problem, I called spec and they had me measure the disk thickness and it was off by .04 of an inch and apparently this is a common problem.

[Max Capacity]

.040" is not much at all, it's just a little more then the spark plug gap.

 

I would think that .040" is not much to sorry about.

 

I installed my Spec 2 on my new short block, with a new TSK3 TOB and it works great.