captainmorgan Posted September 11, 2008 Author Share Posted September 11, 2008 Do the motor mounts, tranny mount, and pitch stop. By themselves they dont help that much, but all together they make noticble difference in keeping the engine in the car! All the power that is being used to lift the engine up, is now channeled into the driveline. The pitch stop is definately the one that will make the most noise. People ask me if I have some sort of speaker making that noise when I start the car! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted December 16, 2009 Share Posted December 16, 2009 Anyone have a torque spec for the nuts for the GrpN mounts? The Legacy vaca pix obviously only show the mount bracket/block bolts and crossmember/mount nut, not the mount bracket/mount nuts. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 16, 2009 Share Posted December 16, 2009 Anyone have a torque spec for the nuts for the GrpN mounts? The Legacy vaca pix obviously only show the mount bracket/block bolts and crossmember/mount nut, not the mount bracket/mount nuts. http://ken-gilbert.com/wrx/STi_Manual/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted December 16, 2009 Share Posted December 16, 2009 Unclemat, you are the man. Thank you sir. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KurtP Posted December 16, 2009 Share Posted December 16, 2009 crap...i have to install these tomorrow, i hope subaru has the nuts in stock.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted December 16, 2009 Share Posted December 16, 2009 They are a fine pitch M10x1.25 thread. I just picked up some grade 8 nuts from a local hardware store and will use them with standard M10 washers. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jahousafat Posted November 21, 2011 Share Posted November 21, 2011 This thread has answered most of my questions. I'm about to bring my car close to the magic 350hp factory 5-speed failure level. Would stiffening up all of these bushings be better or worse for wear and failure rate? I'll be upgrading the mounts and bushings anyways, I'm just curious. The other thing I'm not 100% sure on is just the part names. I've already got Whiteline sways, endlinks, and ALK, so call me crazy, but I'd like to continue replacing with Whiteline products when I can. When you guys say "power steering bushings" and "tranny mounts," is that Whiteline's equivelant to KSR207 steering rack and pinion mount and KTD901 gearbox positive shift kit? I realize those part numbers might not have existed 2 years ago when this thread was alive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 What is this magic 350hp number you speak of? My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jahousafat Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 The factory 5 speeds can't handle a whole lot more than 350hp apparently. I'm sure there's people out there with daily drivers well over the 350 mark that swear their tranny is solid... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 The 5MT is almost as strong as the 6MT My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bolksey85 Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 The factory 5 speeds can't handle a whole lot more than 350hp apparently. I'm sure there's people out there with daily drivers well over the 350 mark that swear their tranny is solid... Driven with respect and not thrashed at every opportunity, the 5mt can handle 350+whp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 I tried to break mine and it wouldn't My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OutbackXT05 Posted November 23, 2011 Share Posted November 23, 2011 Are you sure your trying hard enough? Im scared going from first to second ffs with just stage 2. I dont think I wanna try with my bigger turbo but hey if it dont break then its all good. Although I do launch the hell out of my car but it isnt as bad of a shock as 1st to 2nd. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted November 23, 2011 Share Posted November 23, 2011 I took it to the drag strip and repeatedly dropped the clutch at 5000+rpm using all 450 ftlbs . Nothing broke. I shifted into 2nd from third at 7200rpm. Pegged the tach at 9000+. Nothing broke. My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRSCobra Posted November 23, 2011 Share Posted November 23, 2011 I've launched mine over 20 times at as high as 6000 rpm, sometimes using the lc/ffs, and my 72k mile 5mt is still in one piece. Times in my sig. And for relevance to this thread, I'm running GroupN motor and trans mounts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 23, 2011 Share Posted November 23, 2011 The 5MT is almost as strong as the 6MT :lol: oh, my Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OutbackXT05 Posted November 23, 2011 Share Posted November 23, 2011 Hmmm well thats good to know gives me some sense of assurance that im not gonna leave bits and peices of it all over the road. I launched mine so much my clutch doesnt grab on launch anymore after 4 months. LC at 5500 track and street, but i can dump it or ugly things happen. Horrible bog mufflers almost touch the ground and i teter toter off the line. Of couse old rear struts on oem lgt suspension and oem trans mount arent helping that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted November 23, 2011 Share Posted November 23, 2011 to put this more into perspective... I have an ACT HDSS clutch setup. It slips due to power not wear. My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteCool Posted June 2, 2012 Share Posted June 2, 2012 Sorry to bump an old thread, but I wanted to correct the information here as it is the only place I found it... The part number for the motor mount nuts is actually 902380007, or at least that's what they had it as over here in Canada... Hopefully I can save somebody the hassle of figuring this out with the parts guy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted July 13, 2013 Share Posted July 13, 2013 5 years later and bumping a dead thread... Thank you for the instructions below. My thoughts for a 2008 Outback XT installing GroupN engine mounts and Tranny mount. 1. I didn't remove the down pipe or the exhaust manifold. 2. I have the stock front swaybar so nothing to be removed there. 3. Make sure to remove the pitch stop. I didn't at first. It pushes the whole engine forward and made it impossible for me to align the engine mount bolts with the sub-frame. As soon as I unbolted the pitch stop the engine sort of fell into place (with some pushing from me). 4. I came in through the back with a angled ratcheting socket, this worked to break it loose. I had to use my fingers to get it the rest of the way out. (Hopefully you can trust your jack because this part is a little scary. Thoughts: at city speeds added no NVH that I can tell. I have a Kartboy short throw shifter with the front shifter bushing. I think it drowns everything out. I didn't install the pitch stop mount at that is frequently said to increase NVH. Clutch feels shorter / more direct. I can stab the throttle in 1st gear and the car accelerates and decelerates instead of the drive train thrashing around and jerking. So far seems like a decent upgrade. The engine mounts were not as hard as I feared. The Tranny mount is cake. And here's how you do it: 1. First, remove your down pipe. 2. Disconnect the pitch stop from the engine. If you can do this with out removing your intercooler great, I had to take mine off. 3. Take your exhaust manifold off. I would recommend taking the uppipe off at the same time for more clearance, but I don't know if it is necessary, I took mine off anyways. 4. Remove the two nuts that hold the stock engine mounts to the subframe. 5. Get yourself a jack and a piece of scrap wood, and place it under the tranny between the braces. You need to place here because you're going to be jamming you face in the engine area. 6. Jack it up high enough that the studs on the mounts clear. Be careful here. I did this on ramps which probably wasn't real safe. It unloads the weight of the engine from the suspension so it rises for a while before the engine lifts. 7. Undo the front bolts that hold the mount to the engine. 8. Undo the rear bolts. This is where most of the sti guys would just reach around the back of the subframe and get their tools in. But the subframe on the legacy is shaped differently, so you have to go in from the front. So make sure you have the engine jacked up enough to get you ham fist in there. 9. Wiggle the old mounts out. 10. Install the new mounts (hopefully you assembled them ahead of time). They are labeled and only fit one way. Make sure the stud on the bottom lines up with the slot in the subframe. 11. Reverse order of these steps. (tighten bolts to whatever you can, you're not going to get a torque wrench in there.) here are some less than helpful pictures. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zac88 Posted May 15, 2014 Share Posted May 15, 2014 sorry to bump an old thread but I'm just about ready to do this. From what I gather I received 2 silver plates labeled "L" and "R" I need to get 4 nuts to faster these to the mounts before installing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted May 15, 2014 Share Posted May 15, 2014 Yes. You should already have two from your old mounts, but you'll need four more to get the job done. If you're gonna order them, might as well order 6 - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted May 15, 2014 Share Posted May 15, 2014 Are the AT and MT pitch rods the same? If not, can any other AT owners confirm the numbers on their pitch rods? Bought the "STI" Group N pitch rod as part of the set with the GN mounts, and much to my dismay, the pitch rod matches exactly what I already had, which is (assumed to be) stock. Other than the crappy yellow STI paint on the new one, these are identical PNs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rougeben83 Posted June 29, 2016 Share Posted June 29, 2016 5 years later and bumping a dead thread... Thank you for the instructions below. My thoughts for a 2008 Outback XT installing GroupN engine mounts and Tranny mount. 1. I didn't remove the down pipe or the exhaust manifold. 2. I have the stock front swaybar so nothing to be removed there. 3. Make sure to remove the pitch stop. I didn't at first. It pushes the whole engine forward and made it impossible for me to align the engine mount bolts with the sub-frame. As soon as I unbolted the pitch stop the engine sort of fell into place (with some pushing from me). 4. I came in through the back with a angled ratcheting socket, this worked to break it loose. I had to use my fingers to get it the rest of the way out. (Hopefully you can trust your jack because this part is a little scary. Thoughts: at city speeds added no NVH that I can tell. I have a Kartboy short throw shifter with the front shifter bushing. I think it drowns everything out. I didn't install the pitch stop mount at that is frequently said to increase NVH. Clutch feels shorter / more direct. I can stab the throttle in 1st gear and the car accelerates and decelerates instead of the drive train thrashing around and jerking. So far seems like a decent upgrade. The engine mounts were not as hard as I feared. The Tranny mount is cake. Reviving for clarification. Just to add for any OBXT people, I think the access to the rear bolts are easier due to the subframe spacers that drops the cradle about another inch compared to the Legacy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
busyychild Posted July 24, 2021 Share Posted July 24, 2021 (edited) http://www.subaru.com/microsites/spt/parts_select.sptmain?yearGroup=08-08&model=legacy D1010FE110 STI Engine Mount RH All, req 2 90238007 nuts D1010FE120 STI Engine Mount LH All, req 2 90238007 nuts The factory nuts are part number: 902380007. The dealer/website you sourced it from forgot one additional 0 https://parts.subaru.com/p/49503709/902380007.html Torque Values for the Engine Mounts listed above: Engine Mount/Mounting Plate Nuts: 30.9 ft-lb Engine Mount to Engine Bolts: 25.8 ft-lb Engine Mount to Crossmember Nut: 55.3 ft-lb Edited July 24, 2021 by busyychild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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