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The Official Tuning Thread


Infamous1

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thanks for the input. along the line of throttle response, does anyone else have this problem: pulling up a hill from a dead stop, and you get like 2-3 seconds of almost no throttle no matter where you put the pedal. then it revs up like normal. it is drive-by-wire. any chance i could get help if i tune? also, who does open-source n/a tuning? infamous maybe?

 

One, reinstall the OEM intake system. Regardless of model the OEM intake system provides the best possible low-end power and response.

 

Two, it does make a difference where you "put the pedal." Gradually depressing the throttle pedal, as opposed to stabbing it or flooring it, will provide the best possible acceleration.

 

In practical terms, there is no tuning worth investigating for NA Subarus.

 

More power and tuning is the realm of turbo Subarus. ;)

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I disagree. Lots of people that drive lots of different cars have had success using megasquirt to tune their NA cars, so there is some fun to be had in tuning NA Subarus. Not nearly as much as a turbo Subaru, though.
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  • 1 month later...

I was looking over at ram-raider site. Was looking for a Base 5eat rom. Fully stock something to start with and than go with a custom tune once I get things rolling, I see the AP has a stage 1 for stock I basically want trans mods and reading the mpg with the stage 1 rom was better. All I could find was the 5MT. I het my cable today.

Don't want to spend $600.00 for better MPG and than $150 later for a custom tune.

I want to do OS from the door.

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Don't expect better mpg. It doesn't matter if it's for a 5MT. What you need to do is copy over the maps to the rom that you read from your ecu. MickyD's is a good one. Just remember to log like crazy before and after to make sure everything is working right.
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Don't expect better mpg. It doesn't matter if it's for a 5MT. What you need to do is copy over the maps to the rom that you read from your ecu. MickyD's is a good one. Just remember to log like crazy before and after to make sure everything is working right.

This is what the rom says "WARNING: This rom is specific to a 2005 LGT with a 5MT. Do not flash this on any other car type. You should always use your stock rom and copy all the tables over."

What program you using to open the .hex files to copy over?

Edited by Evnldr
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Use ecuflash to download YOUR rom. Open it in romraider. Cut and paste the maps to your rom and upload. If this doesn't make sense, then don't do it. You can't flash a 5MT rom to a 5EAT rom. They aren't compatible. But the relevant information, like boost control, timing, fueling, etc. tables are interchangeable.
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Did my first log with accessport today and I was hoping someone could take a look at it. The car is flashed Stage 1 on the Cobb off the shelf 93 octane map. It was a 3'rd gear WOT pull in sport sharp. It appears that there is a little knock showing up, but according to what I read on cobb's website it isn't enough to be worrying. It appears its running a little rich too but if someone could take a look at it and gimme some feedback I would greatly appreciate it.

Pull1.csv

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Log fewer parameters. You are logging way too much stuff. It looks like some of that log list is from my own recommended list of parameters, which would be fine using RR since the logging interval is so much smaller, but on the AP, that is way too much stuff. Your lines are 600ms apart (over 1/2 a sec) and when you're in WOT, you get one line every 300-400 RPM, which is way too far apart to be useful.

 

Also, I'd drop back to the 91 map if I were you, even if you're on 93 gas.

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Log fewer parameters. You are logging way too much stuff. It looks like some of that log list is from my own recommended list of parameters, which would be fine using RR since the logging interval is so much smaller, but on the AP, that is way too much stuff. Your lines are 600ms apart (over 1/2 a sec) and when you're in WOT, you get one line every 300-400 RPM, which is way too far apart to be useful.

 

Also, I'd drop back to the 91 map if I were you, even if you're on 93 gas.

 

Is it safe to run 93 octane on the 91 tune? Wouldn't this be prone to causing even more knock? I tried to search for the answer to that before I posted my log because I thought running some 92 octane when I couldn't find 93 might have been causing the slight knock. Also I realized after I imported the log onto my computer that I had entirely too much stuff checked for logging, I'll have to change that for next time.

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Other way around.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

 

This answer is a little vague...So are you saying running a lower octane fuel will cause more knock when on a higher octane tune???

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This answer is a little vague...So are you saying running a lower octane fuel will cause more knock when on a higher octane tune???

 

Correct. A higher octane tune will advance timing to take advantage of the pre detonation resistance of higher octane fuel. Using low octane fuel with a tune like that will cause knock in many places that timing has been advanced to take advantage of higher octane. Running higher octane gas on a lower octane tune is added security against knock since the fuel is more resistant to pre-detonation than the tune intended for.

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Thank you for the good response! Filled up my tank with some shell 93 octane this morning and just reflashed to the 91 octane map. I'll of some logging today and see if that helps with the knock issue. I really hope that's what it is because I was monitoring the knock today while driving on the highway and noticed some spikes to -2.5 and -2.8 under cruising speeds. 😕
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After I flashed to the 91 octane map today, the car began to drop rpm's at idle. It would idle normal right around 750, spike to around 1000 and then drop to 400 or so like it was going to stall out and then the car would catch it. I don't know what it could be? I reflashed to the 93 octane map but that didnt seem to help it either. It didn't happen as consistently but still two or three times on the hour ride home. I logged some of my idle stops at a traffic lights but I wasnt able to catch the dropping rpm's but it is showing a knock at idle??? I attached two of my idle logs that show the knock.

idlelog.csv

idlelog1.csv

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Reflashing resets the ECU and it has to relearn the idle, this is perfectly normal. Stop reflashing back and forth. Stick to the 91 map, give the idle time to relearn, and then go log. Some minor phantom knock at idle is also normal as well.
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Post a learning view. At a glance, you are missing the flkc parameter from your log and your IAM is under 1, which is not good. Refrain from doing pulls until we hopefully sort this out. An IAM under 1 is usually caused by knock of some sort.
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