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Clearing up all the oil info....


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I don't think it's the oil filter that's the culprit. But I certainly would recommend to get a magnetic oil plug, that is a good complement since it will trap the magnetic particles, and those are usually the hardest particles that normally occur in the oil.
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I have no idea who bottles NAPA oils, but whoever does it is not using an oil that would be ideal for a turbo. The bearings in turbos run hot and fast, saving money on oil that doesn't have a high viscosity index and oxidation resistance will prove the old saying " oil's cheap, metal is expensive." It's your car, saving a few bucks on a mediocre oil is your choice.

The filter had nothing to do with your failure, unless the element collapses and starves the engine, particles will be caught. There's only a handful of filter manufacturers, and NAPA is probably using a decent one with their name on it.

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Hey Mikeslgt,

 

Was the code a P0011 code? If so, my car just pulled this code and then within a few hours my turbo died. This is similar to what several other people have reported also. That being said several things could be the culprit... a worn out turbo, faulty oil control valve, plugged banjo screen, leaky oil pump, etc. In my situation it was a worn out turbo (150K on it) and a leaking oil pump.

 

The question I would ask is has your car had it's major service yet (timing belt, oil and water pumps etc.)? If not I would consider getting them done asap. Other things you may want to do is an oil pressure check on the engine to make sure things are up to par. You also may want to have an oil system cleaner run through the system.

 

What type of oil are you using? Have you switched brands at all lately? Just curious.

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Blwgnmn,

 

Thanks for the thoughtful reply. while it's in the shop it's getting that 105k service. i'll find out the exact code.

 

leaking oil pump? that's something i need to point out to the mechanic! oil pressure check, i'll mention that also. Thanks!

 

BTW, there was 3500 miles on the second NAPA oil change.

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So I just got back from the dealership after dropping the family truckster off for her 60,000 mile maintenance.

 

They're pushing a new oil called ECO Ultra oil.

 

It's a post-consumer refined oil where they clean the oil, then blend new additives back into it.

 

It says it meets the latest API SM and ILSACE GF-4 specs.

 

Anyone know of this oil?

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This company is about 3 miles from my shop. They are a big oil distributor and a couple of years ago they built this re-refining plant. The last time I sold them used oil they paid me .40 a gallon.

That means instead of a $100 a barrel, they're paying $16.80. For you math wizards, .40 x 55 is not 16.80. There are only 42 gallons in a crude oil barrel. Also, there is probably less volume loss during the re-refining process than if they were refining crude.

 

I've said this before, there is only 2 reasons to change oil, it's dirty or the additives are depleted. There is nothing wrong with cleaning the oil and replacing the additives. They also blend in some type of synthetic base stock and call it a semi-synthetic oil.

 

As long as it's cheap (because the cost is very low to make this compared to first run mineral oil or synthetics) I wouldn't be afraid of it in a non-turbo application.

 

I suspect the dealership is charging full prices , say $5/qt and this stuff is costing them $1/quart in bulk.

http://www.universallubes.com/index.php/ecofriendly/382

 

BTW, if someone wants to charge you for oil disposal, remember, places like this BUY USED OIL. So a used oil disposal fee is free profit because they're going to sell the oil out the back door and get paid again.

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2nd oil change with castrol edge 5w-30 on the LGT.

 

it's always been good to me in the past with my beat-to hell wrx. was thinking about rotella, but they only have straight 30w or 15w-40 in gallon jugs.

 

 

Walmart has the t6 5-40 in gallon jugs. I think its $19.00 a gallon.

 

Are you using the long filter too ? PL14610. I'm changing over to those on the next oil change. There's plenty of room down there.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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yeah. i'll have to remember that. it's just that i avoid shopping at Wal-Mart, so it doesn't occur to me. the other thing i need was an extra quart. didn't want to deal with keeping a gallon jug around since i always carry the remainder of the 5th bottle in my trunk.

 

i actually bought 5 OEM filters from the dealer after my last oil change, so...... it's the little blue one.

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yeah. i'll have to remember that. it's just that i avoid shopping at Wal-Mart, so it doesn't occur to me. the other thing i need was an extra quart. didn't want to deal with keeping a gallon jug around since i always carry the remainder of the 5th bottle in my trunk.

 

i actually bought 5 OEM filters from the dealer after my last oil change, so...... it's the little blue one.

 

 

That is the same basic reason I bought the 5qt container of Castrol Syntec instead of the t6. But I think for summer I'll spring for 2 gallons of t6 and keep the rest in the shed.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Hey Mikeslgt,

 

Was the code a P0011 code? If so, my car just pulled this code and then within a few hours my turbo died. This is similar to what several other people have reported also. That being said several things could be the culprit... a worn out turbo, faulty oil control valve, plugged banjo screen, leaky oil pump, etc. In my situation it was a worn out turbo (150K on it) and a leaking oil pump.

 

The question I would ask is has your car had it's major service yet (timing belt, oil and water pumps etc.)? If not I would consider getting them done asap. Other things you may want to do is an oil pressure check on the engine to make sure things are up to par. You also may want to have an oil system cleaner run through the system.

 

What type of oil are you using? Have you switched brands at all lately? Just curious.

 

NAPA oil for the last two changes. i change it myself within 3500 miles. 3400 on this last napa oil change when this problem started. this car is not driven hard!

 

Was the code a P0011 code? it WAS the p0011! :eek:

 

i've been waiting all this time for the 'Guardian warranty' co to appove the claim.:spin: i wouldn't recommend them. i normally don't do those extended warranties but wanted it for the turbo! yeah, how dumb is that!

 

I PMed GTTuner, hopefully he'll be available to work on it!

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  • 2 months later...
I haven't tried it, and in my opinion it's probably not giving you any benefits at all unless you live in death valley or other locations with similar heat.

 

should I change it back to a 5w 30 then? I'm not doing any damage am I? its probably just taking away horsepower right?

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In general do people change their viscosities? Summer months here, occasionally we will go a few days with 95-100 degree temperatures (Ohio).

 

5w30 is sufficient at those temperatures still? I know the manual has some chart, stating 10w30 or 10w40 might be worth considering.

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Royal Purple is a good marketing job on a marginal product. Their racing oils are very good, the standard oil is no better than many others that cost less.

 

 

true, royal purple oil is garbage and our engines like to eat it. don't waste the money.

 

anyway, WompaStompa...might want to read this thread thoroughly... http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/oil-choice-have-searched-150603.html?p=3420487

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true, royal purple oil is garbage and our engines like to eat it. don't waste the money.

 

anyway, WompaStompa...might want to read this thread thoroughly... http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/oil-choice-have-searched-150603.html?p=3420487

 

But if you got two different brands of full synthetic oils that are the same weight, why would one burn faster than the other?

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Seems everyone is for Rotella, I always thought it was for diesel and trucks? But I would agree on the subies gulping up the Royal purp. What would be the best oil overall? cause I have been thinking of switching to something else thats cheaper

 

 

IMO Amsoil 0w-30 SSO & Ea oil filters. rolled over 168k. Run it all year round. http://legacygt.com/forums/../images/smilies/eek.gifhttp://legacygt.com/forums/../images/smilies/cool.gif My OCI avg.15k :eek::lol::) Running Cobb stage1 93 map, max boost is still 16.2psi. Original motor & turbo are running like new.

 

Mike

Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold

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Seems everyone is for Rotella, I always thought it was for diesel and trucks? But I would agree on the subies gulping up the Royal purp. What would be the best oil overall? cause I have been thinking of switching to something else thats cheaper

 

But if you got two different brands of full synthetic oils that are the same weight, why would one burn faster than the other?

 

Because not all oils are the same.

 

IMO Amsoil 0w-30 SSO & Ea oil filters. rolled over 168k. Run it all year round. http://legacygt.com/forums/../images/smilies/eek.gifhttp://legacygt.com/forums/../images/smilies/cool.gif My OCI avg.15k :eek::lol::) Running Cobb stage1 93 map, max boost is still 16.2psi. Original motor & turbo are running like new.

 

Mike

 

You guy's need to listen to what this guy is saying.

 

He's converted me. I ran whatever oil was cheapest from Walmart and did oil changes every 3500-5500 miles depending on outside air temp. Granted the car has 142,000 miles. but if you add up all the money I spent on oil changes, I'll bet it's not that much less then what Mike spent for better oil. He also spent a lot less time under the car, and put a lot less oil in the recycle tank.

 

In the SpecB, I use Amsoil products, engine, tranny, rear diff.

 

When the tranny goes back in the 05 it will get Amsoil SVG75w-90, I did put Extra-S in it's new/used rear diff last weekend because I had bottle left.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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IMO Amsoil 0w-30 SSO & Ea oil filters. rolled over 168k. Run it all year round. http://legacygt.com/forums/../images/smilies/eek.gifhttp://legacygt.com/forums/../images/smilies/cool.gif My OCI avg.15k :eek::lol::) Running Cobb stage1 93 map, max boost is still 16.2psi. Original motor & turbo are running like new.

 

Mike

 

Thanks. Is it true you can go 15k on the oil and Ea oil filters?

Edited by WompaStompa
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