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Clearing up all the oil info....


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i just went with some Mobil 1 0w40 last weekend. I've used it a few times before, and I think I like it the most of the ones I've tried. The engine always seems to sound/feel smoother with it on a fresh change (purely subjective). I did an oil analysis (sent it in to blackstone) on the M1 0w40 after driving it for 4600 miles and the results showed it had plenty of life left in it.

 

i've used M1 5w30, Valvoline Synthetic 5w30 and Valvoline Conventional 5w30. dont think i've really felt a difference in any, though when using the conventional 5w30 i've used pretty strict 3000mile changes. oil consumption went up at one point, but i think last weekend it's been determined to be a cracked pan plug with a slow drip (about a quart over 3k miles)

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my seller is telling me i should get the 10w30 for winter because he feels the 5 is too thin...

 

.... :eek: .... I think you should go somewhere else and shop your oil.

 

You can get 0W40 these days, which is an even better winter option.

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alright, now this is getting a little confusing - my seller is telling me i should get the 10w30 for winter because he feels the 5 is too thin...

 

 

I would stop buying anything from that person.

 

The first number is the wieght when the oil is cold, the second number is when it is hot. A 5w will pump through the system quicker on start up.

 

Hey, it's your engine...you can make the choice.

 

The 0-40 does sound like a good idea.

305,000miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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ok - just did my research on bob is the oil guy.

i'm getting the 0-30 for winter, and 0-40 for summer. end of story.

 

thanks everyone, i had to read that really informative report on bob is the oil guy first before i wrote anything else on the post.

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Don't worry, 5-30 will be fine. I use it, and the engine uses it too :)

 

In the warm month's, this past year I used Rotella 15-40. Other years I just used 10-30.

305,000miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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  • 4 weeks later...
crapX2 - http://www.royalpurple.com/motor-oil.html

 

didn't know that was synthetic blend...

 

Back in the early 90's I was a R.P. distributor. In 1995 they stopped making the Maxoil full synthetic. Their racing oils are still full synthetic, but won't meet any warranty specs.

I you want a full synthetic that meets all warranty specs they must have the proper API code on the bottle. However, they can say "synthetic" on the bottle and be a blend (big lawsuit over that). They cannot say "Fully Synthetic" if it's not. Best way to know, pull up their MSDS sheets and if there is mineral oil used, it must be listed.

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Valvolin 5W30 synthetic is what i use and we also get very cold here in the winter. this am it was -20 deg. I have always used Valvoin and loved there oil. I have 80K on the car at stage 2 and don't burn oil. Get a Block Heater for winter time and everything stays warm and your car will start right up in the winters.
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  • 2 weeks later...

I added the following from another thread to the second post in this thread. I'll try to update whenever there is something of interest to add.

 

5W30 is pretty thin when hot.

 

Too find out what's best for our (EU) turbocharged Subaru engines, here in Holland we had an engineer of Kendall Oil taken oil samples from 150+ car's.

(This fellow also works on the best oil for top-fuel dragsters)

 

The samples where taken to the Kendall labaratories for analysis, and checked on everything you can imagine. So traces of metals from all engineparts, but also dilution with gas, sand, etc.

 

 

According to the engineer turbocharged performance engines like our's should not use rather thin oil, cause the engine's produce pretty high torque at relatively low rpm's. An other item is, they can also run relatively high top rpm's.

These fact's plus outcome of the oilreport, the conclusion was:

 

All 0W.. and ..W30 samples contained more metal parts than average.

 

The range 5W40, 10W40, and 5W50 came out best, with 5W50 as the absolute winner.

 

According to this engineer, most car manufacturers prescribe thinner oils, cause of the cold start. In practice most people do not take the time for the engine oil to reach working temperature. Premature wear out could be an item then.

 

5W50 provides a healthy cold start, and a good lubrification on high temperatures.

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well ive got a bunch of mods, stage 3, no engine work tho. also stock turbo waiting for it to die and then borg efr here i come. recently dynoed at 347 flywheel and 298 at wheels. i've been using royal purp. 5w30 but i do notice about half a qt. of loss every 500 mi. or so. which is the lowest of the many i've tried so far. i just never went outside of the 5w30 number. again any one have any words about eneos??
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jeez is that the wrong stage? invidia catless dp,perrin equal length headers,grimspeed catless up,cobb ltwt flywheel,borla catback,bilstien hd's with cobb springs,cusco pillowball uppers,sti short shifter linkage with ap racing short throw,perrin bushing,perrin short ram intake,replaced resonator with straight pipe,cobb ap with dyno tune from r/t by andy,hks sequential blow off valve,perrin turbo inlet,other than injectors and bigger turbo what else am i missing for "stage3"? do you have to have a bigger turbo?
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