jsmythe Posted September 25, 2016 Share Posted September 25, 2016 AZP diag so it must be true. It's not severe (yet). Seems to be slowing with 10w-30 dino. they just did my up pipe and had a good look at what's going on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amptramp Posted September 26, 2016 Share Posted September 26, 2016 I have been having an oil leak problem for a while and finally got around to investigating it. It turned out to be the NAPA Gold oil filter itself. A quick check on BITOG (bobistheoilguy, a website about oil) showed that a number of Subaru owners were reporting the same thing. I use the same filter on my Miata where it behaves properly, but I cannot recommend it for a Subaru. Maybe having exhaust pipes wrapped around the filter gives it a problem, one that other filters do not have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsmythe Posted September 26, 2016 Share Posted September 26, 2016 I have been having an oil leak problem for a while and finally got around to investigating it. It turned out to be the NAPA Gold oil filter itself. A quick check on BITOG (bobistheoilguy, a website about oil) showed that a number of Subaru owners were reporting the same thing. I use the same filter on my Miata where it behaves properly, but I cannot recommend it for a Subaru. Maybe having exhaust pipes wrapped around the filter gives it a problem, one that other filters do not have. I assumed oil bathed filters on WRX's and our cars were a common sight (my downfall). Sure enough when I replaced the o-ring on the oil cooler, the leaking stopped - but that wasn't the only leak as it turns out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lafta Posted October 5, 2016 Share Posted October 5, 2016 (edited) Can't find the link, but what it entailed was something about Rotela T6 lowering it's zinc content level this Fall. Anyone? Bueller? Edited October 5, 2016 by Lafta Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 5, 2016 Share Posted October 5, 2016 Hey buddy, try this link. https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=zinc+content+of+shell+rotella+t6 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Gator Posted October 6, 2016 Share Posted October 6, 2016 Mobil 1 has changed the specs on their 0W-40 Euro Spec (my previous favorite oil). It is now called Mobil 1 0W-40 FS. However when you look at the bottles they are almost identical, the new version has a small FS on it. It still has a good amount of Zinc (1100) and Phosphorous (1000). The entire Mobil 1 product spec chart has been updated and is here: https://mobiloil.com/~/media/amer/us/pvl/files/pdfs/mobil-1-oil-product-specs-guide-2016.pdf Last week it was on sale at Walmart for $22/Five Quarts, but now it's back to $25. Plus there is a $12 Rebate from Mobil 1 thru the end of October. So for $13 you can get 5 quarts! https://mobiloil.com/en/promotion/mobil-promotions/up-to-15-dollars-off-with-mobil-1-and-mobil-super If you want a deep dive into an alternative view of testing oils see: https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/ And it turns out the new Mobil 1 FS is the highest ranked oil for wear in his testing. I have to warn you it's a LONG read. You have to scroll quite a ways down just to get to the test results. And I don't agree with him on all things, but it's still interesting. Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine. "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amptramp Posted October 7, 2016 Share Posted October 7, 2016 It was oil change day for me - a jug of Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 and an Amzoil filter in the longer 110 size rather than the 108 size with the part number EA15K13. I had been having trouble with leaks around the oil filter and determined that it appeared to be the filter itself. About a month or so ago I tightened the filter as hard as I could by hand. The filter came off today with light rotation applied by two fingers and it was almost backed off entirely. When I drained the oil, there was not much more than two litres in there. BTW I used the crush washer sold by Subaru. The plain copper washer that was on there before showed no signs of leakage, so maybe the crush washer is not essential. This had better work - the filter was $21.95 CDN with a core charge of $0.50 and sales tax had brought the total to $25.37 CDN. But if it lasts long enough to allow oil changes every 15,000 km or even 15,000 miles, it would be worthwhile. I get the impression that being surrounded by hot exhaust pipes and hanging upside down from the block makes the filter loosen and checking filter tightness should be part of normal maintenance just like checking oil level. Although people had reported the problem mainly with Wix filters (which I had on there before), it seems like any filter may be suspect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 7, 2016 Share Posted October 7, 2016 I would hope your going to do a oil sample with Blackstone Labs before just going to 15,000 miles. I use the same filter, with Amsoil 5w-40 European Classic, the new name for Full SAPS, Blackstone told me at 7000 miles to keep the oil in there 2000 more miles and send in another sample. I just change it at 7000 miles. I add a quart or so during that 7000 miles. Did you sign up with Amsoil as a preferred member ? The cost is less, though there is the membership fee... 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howardman Posted October 9, 2016 Share Posted October 9, 2016 so im doing the first oil change in my car since ive owned it. i dont know what kind of oil is in it currently but im planning on putting rotella t6 into it. im going to assume that it currently has dino oil in it now, is there anything i would have to do to switch from conventional to a full synthetic or just do a normal oil change? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted October 9, 2016 Share Posted October 9, 2016 Just do a normal oil change, there's not much else to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 9, 2016 Share Posted October 9, 2016 Just to add more info, http://www.pqiamerica.com/ thought you all might like the read. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snow05gtRI Posted October 10, 2016 Share Posted October 10, 2016 BTW I used the crush washer sold by Subaru. The plain copper washer that was on there before showed no signs of leakage, so maybe the crush washer is not essential. just to make sure... you're putting the crush washer between the plug and the pan, right? and not inside the oil filter? I have a friend who put it on the oil filter on his first Subaru oil change. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LatentWagen Posted October 10, 2016 Share Posted October 10, 2016 The crush washer (whether silver or copper) is for the drain plug in the oil pan. The oil filter already has a large rubber gasket on it. LW's spec. B / YT / IG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amptramp Posted October 11, 2016 Share Posted October 11, 2016 just to make sure... you're putting the crush washer between the plug and the pan, right? and not inside the oil filter? I have a friend who put it on the oil filter on his first Subaru oil change. I didn't even think a crush washer would fit on an oil filter. Yes, it was on the drain plug and yes, the old soft copper washer (which is not a crush washer) was OK and hadn't leaked a drop. A washer of some sort is definitely required. I have a 2009 Legacy Wagon with the same symptoms as a number of people - the filter loosens after a while and drips oil on the ground. I have since changed the oil and replaced the filter with an AMSOIL EA15K13, the longer version of the standard filter. When I was removing the old filter, it came off with just thumb and index finger pressure and this seems to be a common complaint with Wix filters on Subaru's. I think I understand why this filter tries to escape on a Subaru but is perfectly OK on my Miata: In a flat-4 engine the primary and secondary forces and moments are cancelled out in the plane of the pistons, but since the cylinders are offset from each other, you get a rotational vibration about a vertical axis. My 1993 Impreza had a nasty vibration between 2700 and 3000 RPM because of this, but the vibration is around a vertical axis, like an anniversary clock with the vertical torsion pendulum. The filter is mounted vertically so in one direction, it tries to unscrew the filter and this is aided by the internal pressure. Oil filter tightness should be a regular maintenance check on a Subaru. I did not have this problem with the Impreza, only the Legacy. BTW I was using the longer version of the Wix filter, so it is the same oversize as the new Amsoil filter. If anyone has a better explanation, I am interested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 11, 2016 Share Posted October 11, 2016 I have not experienced any losing of the oil filters on either of my cars. If I did, I would make sure the oil cooler is tight. I think you need a 24mm deep socket for that. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WetLegacy Posted February 20, 2017 Share Posted February 20, 2017 Bringing the sub back to life.. I use Mobil 1 full syn 5w-30 and I have used it for 70,000 mi. I have a 2.5i but still of course burn oil. Gaskets have been replaced. I live in a humid subtropical region. Should I switch to 5w-40 to reduce the amount burned between changes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesA Posted February 20, 2017 Share Posted February 20, 2017 Bringing the sub back to life.. I use Mobil 1 full syn 5w-30 and I have used it for 70,000 mi. I have a 2.5i but still of course burn oil. Gaskets have been replaced. I live in a humid subtropical region. Should I switch to 5w-40 to reduce the amount burned between changes? Should not hurt anything except gas mileage if you want to experiment. Or perhaps try another brand of synthetic 5W30 and see if it makes a difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amptramp Posted February 21, 2017 Share Posted February 21, 2017 Bringing the sub back to life.. I use Mobil 1 full syn 5w-30 and I have used it for 70,000 mi. I have a 2.5i but still of course burn oil. Gaskets have been replaced. I live in a humid subtropical region. Should I switch to 5w-40 to reduce the amount burned between changes? Mobil 1 5W-30 is on the thin end of the viscosity spectrum for a 5W-30. I used it a few years ago in my Miata and the car was not happy with it - immediate slowing when the throttle was lifted and a feeling that it had just worn too thin. I changed to Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 and that has been perfect for both the Miata and the Legacy. You can use up your existing stock but try something different next time. You don't need to go to a 5W-40. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arg36 Posted June 12, 2017 Share Posted June 12, 2017 Just want to verify: Is Rotella T6 no longer acceptable since they modified the formula? Will likely switch back to Penzoil Platinum 5W-30 if so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Gator Posted June 13, 2017 Share Posted June 13, 2017 I've switched filters now, using the Purolator Boss exclusively. The specs on it are impressive. For oil I'm using Mobil 1 0W-40 Euro Spec in the Spec B. Valvoline VR1 Racing 20W-50 in the STI race car in warm and hot weather. For cold weather races I'll run the Mobil1 0W-40 Euro Spec in it too. Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine. "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robburns201 Posted June 13, 2017 Share Posted June 13, 2017 I second this question???????????????????????? Just want to verify: Is Rotella T6 no longer acceptable since they modified the formula? Will likely switch back to Penzoil Platinum 5W-30 if so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snow05gtRI Posted June 13, 2017 Share Posted June 13, 2017 (edited) this was posted in another thread, regarding old and new Brotella T6 5w40 .... beware, it looks like Rotella made a T6 5w30 which IS different: They only lowered the Phos and Zinc 200ppm. Supposedly they have better shear resistance and resist break down much better. They did this back in 2006 as well (switched from CI to CJ and now CJ to CK). Old VOA - https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2330040 New VOA - https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4238740/New_bottle_shell_rotella_t6_5w If by mistake you pick up the Multi-vehicle, its just another 200PPM loss on the zinc and phos. And is a 5w-30 instead of 5w-40. Yesterday I picked up some oil to do a change and get after the brake shake today but the weather isnt looking so great so I may hold off for another day. Edited June 13, 2017 by snow05gtRI Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markbo Posted June 13, 2017 Share Posted June 13, 2017 Just want to verify: Is Rotella T6 no longer acceptable since they modified the formula? Will likely switch back to Penzoil Platinum 5W-30 if so. When did this start? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 Octoberish I think is when the new formula went into place. The multi-vehicle formula has been impossible to find so far, that is supposed to be the old formula replacement. I just went ahead and switch to Motul 8100, easy to find on ebay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amptramp Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 There is another interesting source of oil information: https://540ratblog.wordpress.com This site compares film strength of the popular (and some obscure) oils and goes on to bust some myths about oil technology. Good reading. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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