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Clearing up all the oil info....


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Coolant I will figure out, but why would I see fuel? Possibly because of frequent short trips in the winter while the car didn't even get a chance to reach normal operating temps? What else can I do besides running an injector cleaner like the one they do at Valvoline for example, with the IV and all?
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Coolant I will figure out, but why would I see fuel? Possibly because of frequent short trips in the winter while the car didn't even get a chance to reach normal operating temps? What else can I do besides running an injector cleaner like the one they do at Valvoline for example, with the IV and all?

 

Yes, the winter driving will increase fuel in your oil.

You could try running a fuel additive like FP-Plus or BioPlus at every fill up.

 

My fuel dilution numbers have been steadily decreasing over my last 3 UOAs. My last one (over winter) was 1.03%, on a 100% stock motor. Hopefully, the next one in the fall will be even lower.

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Do you think it is really the best idea to start changing oil grades? If you don't like Mobil1 5w-30, then you switch to mobil1 0w-40 because it's a better formula? What about a different brand 5w-30? From all of the articles I have read where the experts are speaking about oil, I can't recall a single one that doesn't practically have in bold letter, "Always use the factory recommended weight oil". Unless the car is being modified or something, I have enough faith in the engineers that they chose the appropriate weight oil for the car ahead of time regardless of warmer temps (TX, FL, AZ) or colder temps (MN, AK, ME).

 

Those same engineers didn't build an engine that'll run forever, so why trust their oil judgement? :)

 

In all seriousness, the factory recommended oil weight is not 5w30. It's a range based upon the ambient temperatures you operate in. 5w30 just happens to fit within the range most people use.

 

On the same note: if you are tracking the car, you should probably run 15w50. If you are operating in the arctic, 0w30 at the heaviest. If you like to drive your car hard, often, a 0w40 or 5w40 would probably be a good bet.

 

The engineer/owners manual creators try to pick a one-size-fits-all....but with some knowledge, you can pick a one-size-fits-you :)

 

Joe

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  • 6 months later...
Ok, so I have just spent the last few hours combing over all the past threads on oil and I have come to a few conclusions....................

 

2) Group IV PAO synthetic oils are better than group III oils

 

IMO, only true for extremely cold climates. A PAO based oil will require less pour point depressants.

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Mobile 1, 10W40 here in the tropics......But it gets down to about 50 in the winter, so a 20 weight was not in the cards. So far, no issues. I'll update this in about 5000 miles (I change every year because all I do is stop and go city driving).
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Almost 99,000 miles. I still use the cheapest 5W30 oil I can find that meets the SAE spec. Well ok, I did pay $12.00 for a 5qt bottle of Pennzoil Highmilage the other day. There was something for $10.99 but I said, what heck, I'll buy the good stuff this time. Walmart has the best prices.

 

I'm thinking about using there oil soon.

305,000miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Thank you for the positive thread award! I would like to thank my parents, tuner ... haha. I wanted to jump in and quickly respond to Max and Joe's posts. Both posts bring up valid points. One point that I would like to make is that many industries rely on minimal standards to partially equalize the industry. The minimal standard however does little more than get the product in the game. This allows for alot of upward mobility for products ie better additives, more refined base oils, etc. Your car will run on the cheapest oil. If your going to take your 30K vehicle and stuff the cheapest oil into it I would hope you at least do regular frequent oil changes ESPECIALLY for a turbo'd car. The question that can't be answered is how is the overall longevity and power output is going to be affected by these entry level oils. For instance, take semi-synthetic, did you know that the only thing companies have to do inorder to call an oil semi-synthetic is add a drop of synthetic to their regular oil. They are not required to inform you of how much synthetic is added... and they don't! In other words don't waste your money on semi-synthetic, either go regular or synthetic. Even synthetics aren't created equal some are just hydrocracked petro while others are truly man made. You get what you pay for in most cases! For me personally I figure I purchased a car for 27k, I want to make sure I am doing all I can to protect it and keep it running for a long, long time. I use true synthetic because of it's wear characteristics, longer oil change intervals, and it also reduces dependence on foreign oil.
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  • 1 month later...
  • 1 year later...

I used to run Mobil 1 in my WRX for 80k miles then switched to Shell's Rotella-T 5w-40 Synthetic after hearing all of the mobil 1 issues. I like the Rotella-T because it doesnt burn off as fast as the Mobil 1.

 

 

 

Jay

I was 0.

 

 

 

And I'm still a zero.

 

:lol:

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you do know that BS, dont you?

 

 

Come on, the Dealership told that. It has to be true. No one there would tell you something the wasn't true. If you can't trust the dealer who can you trust. LOL

 

Try saying that with a straight face.

305,000miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Come on, the Dealership told that. It has to be true. No one there would tell you something the wasn't true. If you can't trust the dealer who can you trust. LOL

 

Try saying that with a straight face.

 

dealership is the last place I can trust :lol:

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Few dealerships can be trusted as the service managers are normally customer service guys, not car guys. Although, not always the case. You just have to ask a few loaded questions to find out for yourself. For example; the dealership close to me told me that I would destroy my engine by using 0W-40. I responded it's on the recommended oil list and got the "wellllll..." then silence response.

 

Oil is one of those things that few people ever take the time to understand, yet it is one of the most vital parts of our cars. That is why I feel it's worth taking the time to learn about it and use good quality stuff in my cars. Synthetic oils are superior to conventional oils that is why I feel synthetics are worth the money. Especially if you plan on running your engine into the ground. In the current economy, the longer my vehicle will last the better.

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Few dealerships can be trusted as the service managers are normally customer service guys, not car guys. Although, not always the case. You just have to ask a few loaded questions to find out for yourself. For example; the dealership close to me told me that I would destroy my engine by using 0W-40. I responded it's on the recommended oil list and got the "wellllll..." then silence response.

 

Oil is one of those things that few people ever take the time to understand, yet it is one of the most vital parts of our cars. That is why I feel it's worth taking the time to learn about it and use good quality stuff in my cars. Synthetic oils are superior to conventional oils that is why I feel synthetics are worth the money. Especially if you plan on running your engine into the ground. In the current economy, the longer my vehicle will last the better.

 

sorry for my noob question, have anyone ever try the redline 5w30 yet? I did some searches on google and found some good results, but what's up with the polyol ester base stock? Is it worth it? 9.95/quart? if I only run 3500 OCI?

 

I'm only learning so ... :spin:

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sorry for my noob question, have anyone ever try the redline 5w30 yet? I did some searches on google and found some good results, but what's up with the polyol ester base stock? Is it worth it? 9.95/quart? if I only run 3500 OCI?

 

I'm only learning so ... :spin:

 

You'll get a zillion different answers to this question...the bottom line is that all the expensive oils are good. Redline, Mobil1, Amsoil, Royal Purple, etc are all 'worth the money' and I think they generally are all within a couple bucks/qt of each other.

 

I'm looking for an old link I read about oil life not really being related to mileage- I can't remember the specifics but the takeaway was:

-Synthetics last a hell of a long time.

-Its much, much more about seasonality, humidity, and temperature exposure than mileage. If you want to be psycho about your oil best thing to do is change it when the weather does, ie autumn and spring. If you're not OCD, just change your oil once a year, preferably in the fall.

 

I'm sure I'll find that link soon....

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You'll get a zillion different answers to this question..

 

-Its much, much more about seasonality, humidity, and temperature exposure than mileage. If you want to be psycho about your oil best thing to do is change it when the weather does, ie autumn and spring.

 

..

 

 

That's pretty much what I have been doing for the past 40 years of doing my own oil changes. Don't forget about how hard you drive the car, summer traffic is worst then winter driving. Think about the type driving do. I'll go longer oci during the winter. I go to VT every winter weekend. Lot's of highway miles during the cold dry months. Summer time I change it around 3-3500 miles and use 10-30 where in Winter I use 5-30. Right now I have 15-40 in there. I also use only conventional oil. 129,000 miles on the oem turbo.

305,000miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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