chaz517 Posted August 26, 2014 Share Posted August 26, 2014 This is way you should check you oil at a min. once a week. When a car is "New to You" or the motor as been replaced or rebuilt. Check you oil level every time you fill the tank. Until you get to know your car. Wait a second here... are you on RDF? lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jshute Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 Trying a new oil (to me) 0w40 castrol edge European formula. I have been going through oil during break in with conventional oil. So it will be interesting to see how this oil reacts. I may have a slight leak from one of the cam seals so this may not reduce the vanishing oil. We shall see. Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snow05gtRI Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 i remember reading good things about the castrol euro 0w40 in the past Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 FWIW, I'm not sure I like the idea of a 0w in these engines. My Tuner has hinted that because of the design of these boxer's it's safer to stay with 5w or even 10w. The 40 I like, I run 5w-40 year round. As I have said many times, Amsoil European 5w-40 with 7000 mile OCI. Both cars will use a little oil after about 2500 miles is on the oil. But IMO it depends on how often I'm in boost. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RacerX69 Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 The only info I found for the one I use when doing a search on Amazon was "Withstands nine times normal system operating pressure, for exceptional protection up to 615 pascals per square inch", whatever a pascal is... One pascal per square inch is equal to 0.0001450377 PSI. 615 pascals equal to 0.08919821 PSI. Are you sure it wasn't kilopascals? 615 kilopascals is equal to 89.19821 PSI. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snow05gtRI Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 FWIW, I'm not sure I like the idea of a 0w in these engines. My Tuner has hinted that because of the design of these boxer's it's safer to stay with 5w or even 10w. The 40 I like, I run 5w-40 year round. As I have said many times, Amsoil European 5w-40 with 7000 mile OCI. Both cars will use a little oil after about 2500 miles is on the oil. But IMO it depends on how often I'm in boost. It's probably the concern over the thinner weight before it warms up, thinking it will slip through the gaps. I ran M1 0w40 for a long time (especially in winter) and it was probably one of the least-disappearing oils I've run. I did some Blackstone UOAs on it too and they always suggested I run it for more miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amptramp Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 Before you put too much faith in a UOA, consider the normal requirements for bearings: 1. Score resistance 2. Compressive strength 3. Fatigue strength 4. Deformability - conformability 5. Deformability - embeddability 6. Corrosion resistance 7. Structure 8. Cost All you see from a UOA is the particles that make it into the oil. You do not see what gets embedded in the bearings or how well the bearing surface remains as it was originally manufactured. The UOA is just one tool at your disposal and it tells only what has been released into the oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nosneros Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 (edited) I have read that Rotella T6 5w40 is a great engine oil for the Minnesota climate I have noticed that i get a lil more consumption with the 5w 30 Mobil 1 full synthetic oil but with the mobile 1 I agree i beat the piss out of my lgt and it just starts everyday like I baby the sob lol Edited January 4, 2016 by Nosneros Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nosneros Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 I used to run Mobil 1 in my WRX for 80k miles then switched to Shell's Rotella-T 5w-40 Synthetic after hearing all of the mobil 1 issues. I like the Rotella-T because it doesnt burn off as fast as the Mobil 1. Jay -Konner Hey I saw that you were using Rotella T6 and i was thinking on switching to that I am too using Mobile one 5w30 and I dont like the amount of oil consumption .and I love gassing it everywhere. I wanted to see if you noticed a huge difference how much oil do you put into your car after 3k? and what do you use in the winter if not 5w40 I live in upper Minnesota and the coldest i have seen is 10F help is appreciated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 I use Amsoil 5w-40 year round here in the northeast. We see morning temps in the -20f's a few times a winter. 5w-40 is good to use. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amptramp Posted January 5, 2016 Share Posted January 5, 2016 In Canada, we can get Rotella T6 in 0W-40 with an API SN rating. This may get to the US at some point, when it will become the best choice. I found Mobil 1 to be a bit thin on my Miata so I use Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 on both cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 5, 2016 Share Posted January 5, 2016 I know there is someone on here running 0w-oil but I'm not sure I like that 0w in these engines. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HAMMER DOWN Posted January 5, 2016 Share Posted January 5, 2016 I know there is someone on here running 0w-oil but I'm not sure I like that 0w in these engines. For over 250k, 15k OCI, over 100 of runs down a drag strip & towing up to it's own weight.. I'll say the "Right" 0W-30 oils & filters work just fine:rolleyes:. Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 5, 2016 Share Posted January 5, 2016 For over 250k, 15k OCI, over 100 of runs down a drag strip & towing up to it's own weight.. I'll say the "Right" 0W-30 oils & filters work just fine:rolleyes:. You must have ESP 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sleepercell Posted February 5, 2016 Share Posted February 5, 2016 I use Amsoil 5w-40 year round here in the northeast. We see morning temps in the -20f's a few times a winter. 5w-40 is good to use. I live in Maine is this a good oil to use in a 5eat w turbo ej25. I use 5w30 syn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YeuEmMaiMai Posted February 7, 2016 Share Posted February 7, 2016 I live here in MN and with both of my cars (02 CL Type S and 03 Legacy L) I just use whatever Whitebear Acura/Subaru puts in. CLS is at 140K and Subaru is at 98K no leaks, no consumption, no excessive wear issues. The absolute WORST thing you can do to your car is to "let it warm up" before you drive it away. On really cold days wait a minute and then gently drive away. On normal days, start wait 30seconds and then go... I have been driving for 32 years and I have yet to see any of my engines go boom due to oil related issues.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sleepercell Posted February 9, 2016 Share Posted February 9, 2016 I live here in MN and with both of my cars (02 CL Type S and 03 Legacy L) I just use whatever Whitebear Acura/Subaru puts in. CLS is at 140K and Subaru is at 98K no leaks, no consumption, no excessive wear issues. The absolute WORST thing you can do to your car is to "let it warm up" before you drive it away. On really cold days wait a minute and then gently drive away. On normal days, start wait 30seconds and then go... I have been driving for 32 years and I have yet to see any of my engines go boom due to oil related issues.... I have a lgt 5eat ej25 an my car has thrown a cel from not allowing my car to warm up for 5 then going. Now I dnt think it's a good idea to let it go for half hr but wen ur car is 8 hrs old it needs to warm up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 9, 2016 Share Posted February 9, 2016 Can you please give us the CEL code ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jwellens Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 This thread has confused the s*** outa me. Right now I'm using Mobile-1 5w-30 high mileage (I have 102k miles), and I feel like I'm burning oil. What can I do to fix it? And I've also been looking at Penzoil Platinum and Casterol GTX. Should I stick with M1 or switch? I live in Wisconsin so winters can be quite cold, so I'd like to stick with 5w-30. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kbohip Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 ^^^I HATE that oil! As far as I'm concerned it's like running water in your engine. I haven't put it in my LGT, but I did make the mistake of putting it into my '02 Nissan Maxima. The engine was quiet as can be running Castrol GTX 10w-40 (it burns oil so I run a thicker viscosity), I changed over to the M1 HM 5W-30 and within 50 miles the engine was making a clunking noise at idle after it warmed up. I have no idea what it was but it sounded like bottom end noise. Regardless, I got that crap out of there and decided to run the same Rotella T6 5W-40 that I run in the LGT. Lo and behold within 10 miles the noise completely disappeared. I then had some leftover M1 HM 5W-30 so I ran it in my 4-stroke Honda weedeater. The engine started to make a lot of noise! I switched that over to the T6 too and no more noise. Having this water masquerading as oil attempting to keep a turbo lubricated would scare the Hell out of me. I've been running the T6 in my LGT for 50k miles now and she purrs like a kitten and starts right up in 0F weather. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amptramp Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 I concur, Mobil 1 was not great in my Miata either. I run Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 in the Legacy and the Miata and I can forget any worries about oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 This thread has confused the s*** outa me. Right now I'm using Mobile-1 5w-30 high mileage (I have 102k miles), and I feel like I'm burning oil. What can I do to fix it? And I've also been looking at Penzoil Platinum and Casterol GTX. Should I stick with M1 or switch? I live in Wisconsin so winters can be quite cold, so I'd like to stick with 5w-30. Switch, I run 5w-40 in both my cars year round. My wagon goes to VT most winter weekends, 3 weeks ago it was -29F the engine started fine. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jwellens Posted February 29, 2016 Share Posted February 29, 2016 Switch, I run 5w-40 in both my cars year round. My wagon goes to VT most winter weekends, 3 weeks ago it was -29F the engine started fine. So (I'm a noob here) the 5w-40 is thicker and it helps the turbo out a lot more? I also found out the the Subaru oil filter is the only oil filter that doesn't allow oil to bypass the filter upon start up. Right now I have a K&N filter on and the only thing I notice is a oil smell on start up and a little bit of smoke on start up. Is this the M1 or something else? Thanks for the reply Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snow05gtRI Posted February 29, 2016 Share Posted February 29, 2016 This thread has confused the s*** outa me. Right now I'm using Mobile-1 5w-30 high mileage (I have 102k miles), and I feel like I'm burning oil. What can I do to fix it? And I've also been looking at Penzoil Platinum and Casterol GTX. Should I stick with M1 or switch? I live in Wisconsin so winters can be quite cold, so I'd like to stick with 5w-30. M1 5w30 gets a lot of hate around here. It has a bad reputation of being a weak oil that does not protect the engine. The numbers represent viscosity, or how easily the oil flows. The lower the number, the easier it flows, so the oil is considered thinner. The higher the number, the less easily it flows, so it's considered thicker. The first number (5) is the viscosity when the oil is cold, not yet warmed up from the engine. A 5w is standard cold oil here. A 0w can be useful when you're in extreme cold environments, which will allow the oil to flow easier before the engine heats it up. The second number (30) is how easily it flows when the oil is hot. The 30 will be considered thinner when hot, compared to a 40. The 40 will handle higher oil temperatures better. This is a very basic explanation of the numbers. The Subaru filter isn't the ONLY filter that doesn't bypass, but there are only a few. The recommended choice is the Subaru one. The smoke or smell isn't directly related to the M1 oil. You'll have to figure out where that's coming from Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jwellens Posted March 1, 2016 Share Posted March 1, 2016 M1 5w30 gets a lot of hate around here. It has a bad reputation of being a weak oil that does not protect the engine. The numbers represent viscosity, or how easily the oil flows. The lower the number, the easier it flows, so the oil is considered thinner. The higher the number, the less easily it flows, so it's considered thicker. The first number (5) is the viscosity when the oil is cold, not yet warmed up from the engine. A 5w is standard cold oil here. A 0w can be useful when you're in extreme cold environments, which will allow the oil to flow easier before the engine heats it up. The second number (30) is how easily it flows when the oil is hot. The 30 will be considered thinner when hot, compared to a 40. The 40 will handle higher oil temperatures better. This is a very basic explanation of the numbers. The Subaru filter isn't the ONLY filter that doesn't bypass, but there are only a few. The recommended choice is the Subaru one. The smoke or smell isn't directly related to the M1 oil. You'll have to figure out where that's coming from Ok, thanks a bunch. I'm thinking that I'm going to go with penzoil platinum 5w-40 for my next oil change. Is this a step up from M1? I haven't really seen much input with penzoil here but my buddy uses it in his sti and has 0 issues with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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