SPEC Stage 2 Clutch Pack and LWFW Review

[qikslvr]

Cool. I just don't want this to turn into a thread where everyone posts up their mods.

 

I'm running these Mods:

AEM CAI

GTSpec Header w/3 bolt UP

Perrin TMIC and LWCP

Autospeed Catted DP

SPT CBE

Cobb AP w/TDC STAGE 2.5 e-tune

 

The clutch locks and holds great at this level. I will find a link to the torque and clamp force ratings for the different SPEC clutch packs. I think the Stage2 clutch should hold up to 327wtq? Mine hooked up great at the track last fall. The tires actually brake loose now when boost hits instead of the clutch slipping.

I will be doing a turbo upgrade to a DB TD06-20G Zilla in spring and we'll see how it hold after that. Then I can post some actual dyno numbers.

[qikslvr]

I just got off the phone with SPEC. We were discussing the TOB noise fix, so I asked for the #'s on the different stages of clutches.

 

Here it is a list of Duty Ratings for SPEC Clutches: All #'s are CRANK HP

 

Stage2 - 400BHP

Stage2+ - 430BHP

 

Stage3 - 500BHP

Stage3+ - 585BHP

 

Stage4 - 500BHP

Stage4+ - 585BHP

 

Stage5 - 665BHP

 

This info is posted on a 3rd party website somewhere but I don't remember which one. More information about disc materials and facing options for each clutch is available at: www.specclutch.com

Also, here is a link to JSCSPEED.COM where I got mine. This page has good descriptions and prices for each stage: http://www.jscspeed.com/lgt/clutch/spec.htm

 

Hope this helps everyone with their decision making.

[integroid]

I just got off the phone with SPEC. We were discussing the TOB noise fix, so I asked for the #'s on the different stages of clutches.

 

Here it is a list of Duty Ratings for SPEC Clutches: All #'s are CRANK HP

 

Stage2 - 400BHP

Stage2+ - 430BHP

 

Stage3 - 500BHP

Stage3+ - 585BHP

 

Stage4 - 500BHP

Stage4+ - 585BHP

 

Stage5 - 665BHP

 

This info is posted on a 3rd party website somewhere but I don't remember which one. More information about disc materials and facing options for each clutch is available at: www.specclutch.com

Also, here is a link to JSCSPEED.COM where I got mine. This page has good descriptions and prices for each stage: http://www.jscspeed.com/lgt/clutch/spec.htm

 

Hope this helps everyone with their decision making.

 

That was the info I was looking for. I guess I will be going with stage 3:(

 

Thanks for the info.

[abakja1]

I went with the Stage II + as I am intending to stop at either a 20G or a FP Green with my WBR FMIC, DW 750CC, full exhaust, AVO CAI, and PDX Protune...

I dynoed on stock turbo with the above at 260whp/305TQ

 

Changng my clutch release point smooths things out,..noticed that I dont have to always add a little gas and can sometimes just let the clutch out and the car gets rolling on its own,...looking forward to no chatter in the miles to come,..

[Max Capacity]

15,000 miles on my Spec 2+ with LWFW. I find that every now and then I need to give it about 4500rpm and launch the car. Otherwise the chatter comes back.

I have Cobb AP Stage1 93 octane.

 

The clutch will still spin tires on the 2nd gear shift. This is the clutch Subaru should have put in the car.

 

The LWFW has it's issues at low rpm, but I feel it's worth the trade for it performance.

 

Has anyone done this clutch with the OEM FW ?

[abakja1]

WOW!! I'd be scared to try to chirp or spin my tires on 2nd gear shift! But definitely this clutch transfers the power directly.

[Max Capacity]

Uh, It seems to happen about once or twice a week. The clutch hits nice in 3rd and 4th too.

 

You can hear the rear diff lock up on a good shift. The car diffenetly hooks up to the pavement.

 

I have even felt the car transfer drive when the tires break loose on uneven pavement. Like when some cross streets are a bit higher then the street your on. That is after the light turns green. We have a intersection that is at an angle to the cross street, also have some intersections with sand that I get to play in.

 

Suspension would be the next upgrade to limit the body movement on the shift.

[Kompleks]

so what lasts longer stage 2 or 2+? and overall for everyday driveabily and your occational beating what is better??

[Kompleks]

my tranny hit the shit after 78000 need to be rebuilt and im gonna throw a new clutch since the tranny is out need suggestions please pm and/or post on here

[integroid]

Stage 2+ is better fro daily driveability and probably will last longer as well.

[abakja1]

Put about 1500 miles on Stage 2+ and LWFW and the engagement still sucks,..howm many more miles to a smooth engagement? It making me hate my car everytime I drive it in traffic or from a dead stop. It feeling is like the passanger side axle coming out the way the clutch chatters....

[qikslvr]

You will probably have to rev to about 1700-2000RPMs to get it to take off smoothly. I had to adjust the way I let the pedal out on mine. I had to let it out faster than the stock unit at first, but now it's like butter even when letting it out slow.That's why I didn't get the Stg2+. My Stg2 is smooth as glass even with 1000RPM creeping. I took mine to the strip last night and the clutch hooked up off the line from 4000RPMs and held just fine. It was a little cool yet (and opeining night)so the track wasn't real sticky so I was hopping around an spinning the tires off the line, but the clutch held fine.

 

Right now I've got EVERY upgrade possible (recently added DW 740cc Injectors,FP mod and Perrin inlet) on a Stg2 setup and the clutch is holding great! No stink, no slip, no chatter and holding fine at ~6K miles. I don't think there's much more power to be made out of my current setup; so I'll say that the Stage2 will take everything a Stage2 LGT can put out, IF the clutch is broken in properly.

 

UNLESS YOU PLAN TO GET A BIGGER TURBO STICK WITH A STAGE 2 CLUTCH PACK!

[CRAZY KEN]

...and fellow lgt members!

 

I too have just installed an ACT clutch and lfw. My experience is scary. When I press the clutch down...I noticed it was easier than my stock setup...but here is the scary part...IT STAYS DOWN!!! I have to tuck my toes underneath the clutch pedal and lift it back up. No way in hell I can feather this clutch out of first. Then I started reading everyones post..."you gotta rev it above 1500-2000 rpm before it can grip!!!"...wow, I didnt know that...I guess after I fix this clutch sticking issue, I will have to relearn/adjust my driving habbits! This better be worth it. I have been legacyless for almost a week now.

 

 

thanks for your help,

 

 

CRAZY KEN

[qikslvr]

You need to bleed the clutch system or adjust the tension on the return spring(if you have one installed).

 

quote from earlier post:

 

"After you get the bracket fitted you will need to check the clutch pedal. If the spring is too tight it will make the pedal soft or make it fall to the floor. If this happens, just bend the bracket towards the clutch fork a little to relieve some tension. The spring should be tight, but not stretched much if at all. If the clutch pedal feels “normal, then you can re-install the TMIC."

[Max Capacity]

I have about 20,000 miles on my Spec2+. Still chatters every now and then, much like the OEM one when it's damp, humid, or wet.

 

Still breaks the tires loose in 2nd gear when I want.

 

Back in May I stalled the engine on a hill, I pushed the clutch in stepped on the brake. when the engine fired I floored the gas before idle was reached, let the clutch out to slip while the rev's came up, car was moving forward a bit once I saw about 5000 rpm, I just dumped the clutch, the tires broke loose and I was on my way.

 

Stout clutch.

 

I do find in traffic it still tends to grab low, but I just put the tranny in "neutral" and side step the clutch at idle and it's fine for a while, depends on traffic.

 

Over all I still enjoy it, I wanted a clutch that would grab, I didn't want a noodle like the OEM clutch.

[StoplightAssassin]

Qikslvr, I'm going with this setup very soon and I saw you posted Spec includes the TOB in this kit. JSCSpeed told me I have to purchase the TOB separately but the alignment tool is included. Judging by the date on your op maybe this is something Spec changed very recently or has JSCSpeed been mislead?

[qikslvr]

I'm pretty sure the JSC listing read the same(no tob) when I ordered mine. If you look at the first picture in the first post you can see the part number and my actual sealed clutch pack. Mine came with the TOB(upper right pic #1), clutch, pressure plate, pilot bearing and alignment tool.

They may have changed it though. I order it and see what comes and go get a TOB from a dealership or parts store if it's not included.

[qikslvr]

Almost 10K miles on the SPEC Stg2 clutch and LWFW and it's still holding great with no issues.

[AZZMAN]

Do you think it is necessary to have parts installed by a subaru dealer mechanic? I need to replace plate / flywheel on my 2006 with 29k miles... tons of chatter on launch but still plenty of hold on shifts above 5k. Maybe just an adjustment will hold me for awhile?? Any thoughts?

 

2006 specb Stage II Cobb exhaust sti air intake

[StoplightAssassin]

So, got this setup installed.

 

On the TOB squeal issue, does it sound similar to a loose belt? It only makes the noise with the clutch fully out. If I press the clutch just the tiniest bit it disappears.

 

***BREAKING NEWS!***

 

Just finished up putting on the return spring and bracket. It has cured my tob squeal problems. First of all, Qikslvr, you are the man and if you ever come out to Jersey drinks are on me. Lol

 

Anyways, I took some pictures of my solution to the problem. Since I had read Qikslvr had some initial fitment issues with his Perrin TMIC (especially the part about removing it and reinstalling it 12 times!) I decided to make an "S" shaped bracket. After drilling the holes, I just loosely bolted it in and stretched the spring to where I felt it would work and marked it with a Sharpie. After the necessary trimming, it went back together and worked the first time! Imagine that! Now for the pics...

 

My finger is pointing to the location of the existing bracket in which the new SUPERTOBSQUEALELIMINATOR Bracket will be mounted (bolt already removed...duh) On a side note...if you haven't already zip tied your boost lines, now would be a brilliant time to do so!

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b209/jjbhoops/tobfixpoint.jpg

 

 

This picture shows the finished height of the bracket...which is a little more than 2 inches high.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b209/jjbhoops/bracketsizeH.jpg

 

This is the finished length of the bracket...as you can see it is just about 4 inches.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b209/jjbhoops/bracketsizeL.jpg

 

This is a top view of the installed bracket. Note the spring is not stretched very far at all. On the tip from Qik, I made a trip to Home Depot's storm door section. The spring I used is a 2.5 incher with a 11.5lb safe working load rating. IMO, the clutch felt better after installing the spring on my test drive.

 

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b209/jjbhoops/bracektinstalled.jpg

 

This final picture just shows the gap between the SUPERTOBSQUEALELIMINATOR Bracket and the fluid line connected to the slave cylinder. This gave the spring great clearance all around and the bracket won't hit my Perrin TMIC.

 

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b209/jjbhoops/bracketinstalledgap.jpg

Edited August 22, 2008 by StoplightAssassin

[qikslvr]

Looks great. Should save some wear and tear on the fins of your TMIC too.

[JoeFromPA]

Just out of curiosity, wouldn't the need to rev up to 1700-2000 rpms each time you go into 1st gear reduce clutch life a fair amount?

 

Joe

[qikslvr]

Ya, but it's only for the first few thousand miles. I can roll off the line now from 900RPMs and not get any chatter or jerking. It took over 5K miles, but it's back to stock drivability. I think I'm at around 8K miles with this clutch at Stg2+ levels and it's holding strong.

[Malingator]

Just a side not here...my SPEC stage 3+ and flywheel (flywheel is most of the clatter factor)took about 4k to feel back to stock. You will still get clatter at low RPMs in first and sometimes if let of clutch just a hair too soon in first.

 

Other than that clutch and flywheel holding just fine...now about 6500 miles on it.

[qikslvr]

I'm almost tempted to put a stock flywheel back in (when I re-build my tranny this winter) just to see if the noise is more from the clutch or the LWFW. I get some very mild clicking if I ride the clutch in first, but the jerking is gone and it will almost roll off the line smoothly without giving it any throttle.

My biggest issue with the LWFW is the vibe you get under 2000 RPMs in 4th and 5th. I now tend to drive one gear lower and closer to 3K than to 2K RPMs most of the time. Most of the FW noise in mine comes from the gears when coasting in 2nd and 3rd.