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No More Stripped Turbo to TMIC Threads


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Why, what's not working?

The bolt and nut works too, except that every time you want to take off the TMIC you will struggle with the nuts on the bottom. There isn't a lot of clearance there.

The header studs is the way to go because you don't have to mess with the bottom nuts at all.

You can accomplish the same thing by cutting the top of a bolt but why create more work for yourself

Edited by fishbone
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  • 8 months later...

I would think a 1" or 25mm stud would be long enough, just make sure the shank is not to tall. I have some studs in the shed that have a 1/2 -9/16 shank between the threads.

 

I just tried to put bolts in my old VF40, you can on the front side but the rear side would need a smaller hex head. I think a bolt about 30mm or 1 1/4" would be long enough.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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  • 1 year later...

FWIW, I have learned to loosen the three nuts that hold the turbo to the up pipe. This allows the turbo to move around and make it easier to thread the bolts in the turbo outlet.

 

Line up the tmic on the TB hose, swing the tmic over the turbo outlet and start those two bolts, start the support bracket bolts, tighten TB clamp, tighten two bolts at the turbo outlet, tighten support bracket, tighten 3 nuts on the up pipe.

 

I also bolt my turbo to the up pipe.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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  • 1 year later...

Bumping an old thread because hopefully this will be useful to someone.

 

Installed studs on my turbo today and used some Stainless Steel M8 x 1.25mm x 40mm Studs from ebay that worked out quite well. You could probably get by with 35mm long studs, but I wanted to put a jam nut on the bottom of them to make sure they never come out.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=247382&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1491690396

The threads on the forward flange were pretty messed up. This was from being in a hurry trying to remount the TMIC after replacing a leaking throttle body hose. It was bad enough I've been afraid to actually take the TMIC off ever since.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=247385&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1491690726

The stock bolts were replaced with the M8 40MM studs, with a lock nut below the turbo flange and (cheap) red threadlocker to keep it in place.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=247383&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1491690396

The studs are inserted into the turbo flange with a 4mm allen wrench. As the front one had damaged threads and clearance issues it wasn't inserted quite as far as the rear was.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=247384&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1491690396

Tighten the nuts down (on top and bottom) with a 13mm wrench and done. No more stripped turbo threads. It was also noticeably easier to realign the TMIC with studs vs bolts.

IMG_0547.thumb.jpg.3e76b17af649a4e7235b470e6285caa6.jpg

IMG_0549.thumb.jpg.122fbce8c6c0e299d4ea29901d686d63.jpg

IMG_0551.thumb.jpg.7ffdc422bdf3d960fd42df78c557b2e9.jpg

TIwz8rx.thumb.jpg.1375e824cec62423c3d9fd694a652962.jpg

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  • 2 years later...

Bumping from the dead! Dealt with this on the stock VF40. Then dealt with it on the VF52. Now dealing with it on the AVO380 -_- I ended up making a larger hole and retapping the VF40. VF52 surprisingly didn’t give me trouble. But still a concern. We use a GS TMIC also it has an adapter flange on top. I like the idea of studs and have used but and bolts before. The problem is they fall out or down once you remove the nut holding the intercooler or adapter flange on (in our case). How do you guys hold it in place or are you using the threads to hold it there and use using a nut to make sure it doesn’t back out?

 

The GS adapter flange has a short clearance on the left side so can’t use long studs or bolts as clearance is the issue. Also need to accommodate a hose on that goes onto the adapter flange.

 

Any ideas?

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The problem is they fall out or down once you remove the nut holding the intercooler or adapter flange on (in our case). How do you guys hold it in place or are you using the threads to hold it there and use using a nut to make sure it doesn’t back out?

 

I just hold the nut before it falls with my hand. They're typically finger-loose pretty soon after putting a wrench on it, so it's not really a big deal IMO. I also have a GS TMIC, but it was no different when I was using a Perrin TMIC.

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I just hold the nut before it falls with my hand. They're typically finger-loose pretty soon after putting a wrench on it, so it's not really a big deal IMO. I also have a GS TMIC, but it was no different when I was using a Perrin TMIC.

 

 

 

Didn’t end up doing the nut and bolt but ended up doing a M8x1.25 Heli-Coil kit. Turned out great and very strong. The only time I’ll mess with this is putting on or taking off the flange for the GS TMIC. Other than that, I’ll be just removing silicone hose. The new SS threads are very strong and hold well. If it ever becomes an issue again 100% will need to order in studs and stuff locally they got nothing really.

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