leggyman17 Posted December 26, 2012 Share Posted December 26, 2012 Ive used that gasket. still no bueano. i guess ill try a smaller diameter bolt with a washer and a nut and try that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted December 27, 2012 Share Posted December 27, 2012 (edited) Why, what's not working? The bolt and nut works too, except that every time you want to take off the TMIC you will struggle with the nuts on the bottom. There isn't a lot of clearance there. The header studs is the way to go because you don't have to mess with the bottom nuts at all. You can accomplish the same thing by cutting the top of a bolt but why create more work for yourself Edited December 27, 2012 by fishbone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moddiction Posted September 13, 2013 Share Posted September 13, 2013 What length header studs did everyone get? WWW.MODDICTION.COM Moddiction Stainless steel and Titanium shift knobs. Drivetrain, suspension, brakes, exhaust, cooling, fuel, gauges+MUCH more! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 13, 2013 Share Posted September 13, 2013 I would think a 1" or 25mm stud would be long enough, just make sure the shank is not to tall. I have some studs in the shed that have a 1/2 -9/16 shank between the threads. I just tried to put bolts in my old VF40, you can on the front side but the rear side would need a smaller hex head. I think a bolt about 30mm or 1 1/4" would be long enough. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OneSchoon Posted July 23, 2015 Share Posted July 23, 2015 Very helpful! I was one pissed off SOB tonight when I stripped the dogshit out of one of these. Hardware store tomorrow for the supplies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 24, 2015 Share Posted July 24, 2015 FWIW, I have learned to loosen the three nuts that hold the turbo to the up pipe. This allows the turbo to move around and make it easier to thread the bolts in the turbo outlet. Line up the tmic on the TB hose, swing the tmic over the turbo outlet and start those two bolts, start the support bracket bolts, tighten TB clamp, tighten two bolts at the turbo outlet, tighten support bracket, tighten 3 nuts on the up pipe. I also bolt my turbo to the up pipe. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utc_pyro Posted April 8, 2017 Share Posted April 8, 2017 Bumping an old thread because hopefully this will be useful to someone. Installed studs on my turbo today and used some Stainless Steel M8 x 1.25mm x 40mm Studs from ebay that worked out quite well. You could probably get by with 35mm long studs, but I wanted to put a jam nut on the bottom of them to make sure they never come out. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=247382&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1491690396 The threads on the forward flange were pretty messed up. This was from being in a hurry trying to remount the TMIC after replacing a leaking throttle body hose. It was bad enough I've been afraid to actually take the TMIC off ever since. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=247385&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1491690726 The stock bolts were replaced with the M8 40MM studs, with a lock nut below the turbo flange and (cheap) red threadlocker to keep it in place. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=247383&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1491690396 The studs are inserted into the turbo flange with a 4mm allen wrench. As the front one had damaged threads and clearance issues it wasn't inserted quite as far as the rear was. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=247384&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1491690396 Tighten the nuts down (on top and bottom) with a 13mm wrench and done. No more stripped turbo threads. It was also noticeably easier to realign the TMIC with studs vs bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merc6 Posted April 11, 2017 Share Posted April 11, 2017 Yep, that's the gasket I used as well. My legacy already came pre stripped and in this nuts and bolts configuration. 2 turbos later I'm no longer having that issue. 2005 Satin White Pearl Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT Unlimited 5EAT (Project Car) 2019 Agate Black Ford Explorer XLT 4WD (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNfEk Posted April 30, 2019 Share Posted April 30, 2019 Bumping from the dead! Dealt with this on the stock VF40. Then dealt with it on the VF52. Now dealing with it on the AVO380 -_- I ended up making a larger hole and retapping the VF40. VF52 surprisingly didn’t give me trouble. But still a concern. We use a GS TMIC also it has an adapter flange on top. I like the idea of studs and have used but and bolts before. The problem is they fall out or down once you remove the nut holding the intercooler or adapter flange on (in our case). How do you guys hold it in place or are you using the threads to hold it there and use using a nut to make sure it doesn’t back out? The GS adapter flange has a short clearance on the left side so can’t use long studs or bolts as clearance is the issue. Also need to accommodate a hose on that goes onto the adapter flange. Any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solidxsnake Posted April 30, 2019 Share Posted April 30, 2019 The problem is they fall out or down once you remove the nut holding the intercooler or adapter flange on (in our case). How do you guys hold it in place or are you using the threads to hold it there and use using a nut to make sure it doesn’t back out? I just hold the nut before it falls with my hand. They're typically finger-loose pretty soon after putting a wrench on it, so it's not really a big deal IMO. I also have a GS TMIC, but it was no different when I was using a Perrin TMIC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNfEk Posted May 3, 2019 Share Posted May 3, 2019 I just hold the nut before it falls with my hand. They're typically finger-loose pretty soon after putting a wrench on it, so it's not really a big deal IMO. I also have a GS TMIC, but it was no different when I was using a Perrin TMIC. Didn’t end up doing the nut and bolt but ended up doing a M8x1.25 Heli-Coil kit. Turned out great and very strong. The only time I’ll mess with this is putting on or taking off the flange for the GS TMIC. Other than that, I’ll be just removing silicone hose. The new SS threads are very strong and hold well. If it ever becomes an issue again 100% will need to order in studs and stuff locally they got nothing really. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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