croll326 Posted November 11, 2007 Share Posted November 11, 2007 My OEM clutch is fried. Should I just have the dealer put another one in or should I got aftermarket? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonathanhuyck Posted November 11, 2007 Share Posted November 11, 2007 I just replaced mine w/ a OEM flywheel from a '06 WRX and an ACT clutch for that same model. I like it a lot, and the install wasn't that bad. I did it w/ hand tools. Check other posts here about it; there's been a lot of clutch discussion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy05 Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 I was close to 70k miles on my stock clutch when my throw-out bearing was going .. so I just replaced mine with another stock clutch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boostjunkie Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 ACT SB5-HDMM FTMFW! That is the ACT 06+ WRX clutch. You can pair it with either a stock 06 WRX clutch or an ACT Streetlite flywheel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infamous1 Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 What is the going rate for an 06' WRX OEM flywheel, new or used if it can be resurfaced? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonathanhuyck Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 You can get a new OEM '06 WRX flywheel for $199 from one of the vendors listed on this site. Their customer service is awesome! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitetiger Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 Go with spec clutches. they fit the OEM flywheel or they have their own. either way, they are OEM shape unlike the ACT which require a flywheel swap of some sort. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HansGT Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 ^ SPEC is also more $$$. But yes a good alternative to maintain the dual mass flywheel. Also, not everyone may want the Kevlar option on the stage 2 and 2+. For me I like the idea of a "healing" organic clutch as found with the ACT. ACT clutch and OEM WRX flywheel to be installed next week on my GT. I've read many good reviews. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitetiger Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 ^yes, but the stage 3+ will take all that you can give it in stride. Ive been running that clutch for nearly 2 years now and i beat the piss out of it. Still holds like day 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HansGT Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 Cool, glad it works for you. How does stage 3 compare to stock pedal feel and drivablity? I think a lot of us will max out at "stage 2" levels which suits the ACT set up just fine. Inexpensive option with stock like feel and drivability FTW. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitetiger Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 Its definitly stiffer and heavier than stock, but thats what im used to. drivability is good, but there is alittle chatter if you dont engage it right. i love this clutch though. I know it will last the life of the car and i can drive as hard as i want. And if a bigger turbo is in my future, then im set. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HansGT Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 sh*t rolls down hill, clutch might be strong, but it will transfer a lot more strain onto your transmission. a clutch that isn't so strong might save your tranny. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitetiger Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 true. All are things to consider when buying a clutch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Ed Posted November 14, 2007 Share Posted November 14, 2007 sh*t rolls down hill' date=' clutch might be strong, but it will transfer a lot more strain onto your transmission. a clutch that isn't so strong might save your tranny.[/quote'] +1 what I love most about this particular thread....we have no idea of what car he is talking about, what the mileage was, what power modifications he's running...ect.... yet we all have a suggestion of what he should use.. a clutch is much less to replace than a tranny. the best way it was put to me is you want to have no more and no less than 30% excess clutch torque handling. if your running 100 torque run a clutch that can handle 130...and with that keep in mind near future mods. you'll also be transferring more power to your tranny too much clutch on a daily driver= poor daily driving experience, but a fantastic occasional track day too little clutch for current or future mods and you'll be buying another clutch soon keep in mind...i'm writing this based off of my own opinions and research..i am no clutch specialist. the following is based on what i have read about stage 2 or less power levels. which is why I went with the spec stage 1 and wrx fly.....granted some might have power mods that might might require more torque tolerance....... for all that specific stuff you'll need to visit vendor websites etc. , if you need help with that pm me...i have all of them what i have found is that it really depends on each individual car and driver.... the act clutch and wrx fly is a very popular set up around here.... and i did not have a chance to test that particular set up. The local dealer had an act clutch paired with a lightwght act fly that they let me drive and it would have been hell to drive that setup in light morning traffic. imho, after reading all of the various clutch write ups.... if you are at stock or stage 1 levels and don't plan on exceeding those within the time period that you have burnt through your first clutch....just do a stock clutch if your at stage 2 or more look into an aftermarket set up exedy stage 1: lowest torque tolerance, but ecellent reviews, also the manufacturer of stock replacement clutch (which is not a stage 1 clutch, it has a diff part number) spec stage 1: torque rating just under 300 if I remember correctly..organic, great reviews from those that have them, they just aren't very vocal about it. act stage 1: highest torque rating i could find... results may very...some report stock driveability, others report a slightly stiffer pedal 15%-30% stiffer, and then some report an even stiffer pedal 30%-70%..i think it just depends on which flywheel you use. once you decide on a clutch, then decide on a flywheel..... the safe bet is to pair it with the model/clutch...... ........ ........ this statement is in regard to the fact that you can in fact use a wrx clutch to be safe: if using a clutch made for a wrw, use a flywheel made for a wrx. only two manufacturers list a Legacy gt specific clutch : exedy and spec exedy stage 1 can be used with stock flywheel or act flywheel ie... wrx exedy stage 1 paired with a wrx stock flywheel legacy exedy stage 1 paired with a exedy legacy flywheel exedy says you can't use the stock legacy fly) now, the part number for the above clutches...is the same .... so with a exedy stage 1 clutch you can use a wrx stock fly, exedy wrx lw fly, or exedy legacy lw fly, and an aftermarket lw fly) http://www.exedyusa.com/ spec: spec makes a variety of set ups made to fit stock flywheels, including a legacy stock fly. the best bet on this is to view their website. I personally did the wrx stage 1 clutch and a wrx flywheel. http://www.specclutch.com/ their website sucks...check with vendors sites for decent info act stage 1: highest torque rating of all of the stage 1 clutches I looked at. best paired with a oem wrx flywheel or act streetlight flywheel. seems to be the most popular set up lately http://www.advancedclutch.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 14, 2007 Share Posted November 14, 2007 ^^ Good point, we have no idea what he's looking for in a clutch. I have a Spec 2+ with there Al flywheel. I've had it in since late June this year. Yes a little chatter if you don't get it right. It has about the same pedal feel as stock. I will say it seems to change engagement point from time to time. Not often, may be it's just me, in the heat of the moment, when the light turns green and I wasn't ready for it... I have Cobb AP stage 1 93 octane. I like the way the clutch hits at WOT. I will also tell you that you can not drive the car in 5th gear at under 45mph with the 14lb flywheel. That is the only real change in drive ability. I have sat in traffic with it in NYC on a Sunday night. It was manageable. Hope that help's the OP 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HansGT Posted November 15, 2007 Share Posted November 15, 2007 too much clutch on a daily driver= poor daily driving experience, but a fantastic occasional track day too little clutch for current or future mods and you'll be buying another clutch soon if your at stage 2 or more look into an aftermarket set up exedy stage 1: lowest torque tolerance, but ecellent reviews, also the manufacturer of stock replacement clutch (which is not a stage 1 clutch, it has a diff part number) spec stage 1: torque rating just under 300 if I remember correctly..organic, great reviews from those that have them, they just aren't very vocal about it. act stage 1: highest torque rating i could find... results may very...some report stock driveability, others report a slightly stiffer pedal 15%-30% stiffer, and then some report an even stiffer pedal 30%-70%..i think it just depends on which flywheel you use. Most stage 2 set ups are putting out 330-350 ft.lbs. (crank). Under 300 will not cut it....unless your talking 300wtq.? ACT is rated at 420ft.lbs. at the crank. 420 is right in that sweet spot you spoke about...@30% more holding power than what your putting out. IMO i would not put in a stage 1 Spec or Exedy clutch on a stage 2 LGT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Ed Posted November 15, 2007 Share Posted November 15, 2007 Most stage 2 set ups are putting out 330-350 ft.lbs. (crank). Under 300 will not cut it....unless your talking 300wtq.? ACT is rated at 420ft.lbs. at the crank. 420 is right in that sweet spot you spoke about...@30% more holding power than what your putting out. IMO i would not put in a stage 1 Spec or Exedy clutch on a stage 2 LGT. i'm not saying he should go with any particular set up.... and to clarify i am talking about stage 1 set ups up there.....and like i said....the only stage 1 set up that can handle stage 2 and more is act. in fact I think you said the same thing i did in less words.... i get carried away sometimes my going with spec stage 1 was a difficult decision, based on current finances and other's input. i've been on it almost a week now and other than a lil hang up with the tob, i'm satisfied. and if one is looking at a website that shows torque handling...it is always measured at the crank (assuming they listed it correctly) act stage 1, or "street clutch" is acurately listed at 475 torque handling on a few sites. the others ( stage 1 spec, exedy, ext) are all under 300 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HansGT Posted November 15, 2007 Share Posted November 15, 2007 ^ Oh, I misread. I thought you were recommending those stage 1 clutches for stage 2 LGT's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
croll326 Posted November 15, 2007 Author Share Posted November 15, 2007 im stock for now going to cobb stage 1 93 octane. wont be going higher than that though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HansGT Posted November 16, 2007 Share Posted November 16, 2007 ^ you say that now.....you can not resist the powa. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Ed Posted November 16, 2007 Share Posted November 16, 2007 ^ you say that now.....you can not resist the powa. +1 I remmeber saying that about a year ago....now i'm planning a full build and front mount for next year...haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 17, 2007 Share Posted November 17, 2007 My OEM clutch is fried. Should I just have the dealer put another one in or should I got aftermarket? Thanks. Did we ever answer your question ? I would say at least a Spec1+ The 2 may be a good choice also. Go to there site and read about each clutch. It's pretty easy to pick one. My 2+ like I said seems to change engagement point every now and then. Just drove home from work. At one of the normal stop lights it seemed to grab low. After the next two stop signs I really didn't notice the clutch. A short distance later I dropped in into 2nd to pass a car, quick power shift to 3rd and at the next stop sign, the clutch felt normal. May be I baby it to much. I can fix that... I will say even though it's not perfect, I'd still rather have this clutch then OEM. At least I know it's not going to slip. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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