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Redline 75w90ns = :(


Deer Killer

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This stuff is definitely lighter than the stock dino, but as for shifter performance, it's just barely better. Nothing like the SF MTL-R, when I was on that it seemed on a 1-2 shift the transmission literally pulled the stick into second gear, I got a bang from the rear diff shifting everytime because the engine was almost at the same rpm I left 1st in, just awesome, get a second off 0-60 without having to abuse the synchro's.

 

Now I'm contemplating crazy things, like pumping out enough of the redline to add my ~.75 liter of leftover MTL-R back in, and hope it does something...

 

:spin::spin::spin::spin::spin::spin:

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if you don't mind my asking, how long have you been using redline?

Who, me or the OP? Just in case i think I'm more important than I really am, I've had it in for a little over a year now in this car.

ignore him, he'll go away.
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fweasel, I should have specified you... :) I come from a background of honda trannies where redline tears up the synchros within a very little amount of time... So I'm curious how it does in other makes. I guess it's something in the honda's synchro composition, but i'll stay away from that and use GM's Synchromesh till the day I die.
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fweasel, I should have specified you... :) I come from a background of honda trannies where redline tears up the synchros within a very little amount of time... So I'm curious how it does in other makes. I guess it's something in the honda's synchro composition, but i'll stay away from that and use GM's Synchromesh till the day I die.

Let me preface this with I like honda's, but the honduh community is really a big contributer to the completely unscientific way of modding cars, aka rice. The oil is spec'd to not be corrosive the synchro metals. This would make it less corrosive than the porported stock fluid. Unless they are lying.

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Corrosion of syncros I think are the least of the worries. Syncros need friction modifiers and a certain degree of viscocity and lubricity to work without tearing itself apart. Too much lubricity and the syncros will not sync. Too little and they will start tearing themselves apart.

 

The honda community does have its share of rice but it also has its fair share of very good tested and reliable data.

 

Extra-S Subaru OEM stuff FTW. If it ain't broke don't break it.

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Maybe corrosive was a bad word, but I couldn't think of anything else at the time... What I do know is that after time, any honda trans running redline that I ever heard of needed a rebuild within a year or so. Sure some of that could be the loose nut behind the wheel, but there are a lot of people I respect from the honda camp that had similar issues with their trans.
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Interesting - the magic pixie,not available anymore dust fear lube works better than the readily available gear lube. Maybe GM bought the rights to the magic oil when they were buying the secrets to the 100 mpg car :lol: Maybe if you put some magnets on both sides of the transmission it will work better - it will help align the oil molecules :eek:

 

Redline works fine. The Subaru transmission is what it is.

 

To the OP - use a dyno based gear lube and you will be happier, except during the winter ;)

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i've tried mobil 1 and redline previously and currently have SF right now. coming up on my 60K change soon and since SF is not up and running, i just got another order of redline.

 

SF feels a tad better, but redline works just as well for me.

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Let me preface this with I like honda's, but the honduh community is really a big contributer to the completely unscientific way of modding cars, aka rice. The oil is spec'd to not be corrosive the synchro metals. This would make it less corrosive than the porported stock fluid. Unless they are lying.

 

and depending on who's driving the car too.. some people just never learn how to shift in a way that it will agree with the tranny.

Keefe
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