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I have seen new folks come in time after time and ask a number of questions most of them we've all seen before.

 

So... since I have alittle time on my hands and it will be easier for them then searching for things, I've made this.

 

Within this page you will find some of the most helpful information gathered from all over; Performance site links, helpful suggestions, vehicle specs, and much more helpful information gathered over time. So if you are new to the older legacy then you've come to the right place.

 

THE THINGS THIS POST WILL COVER FOR YOU:

Legacy model codes

Most common internet terms

Internet technical terms & abreviations for subarus

Performance Options for the older legacy models

links to find performance parts

links for crate and used motors

bushing list

Motorswaps

Transmission swaps

Overheating issues

Related subaru links to informitive websites

 

_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

TERMS & ABREVIATIONS SECTION

 

Legacy Model Codes:

 

BC=89-94 Sedan

BF=89-94 Wagon (raised roof)

BJ=89-94 Wagon

BD=95-99 Sedan

BG=95-99 Wagon (raised roof aka 96-99 outback)

BK=95-99 Wagon

BE=00-04 Sedan

BH=00-04 Wagon

 

 

**Some of the models which have the same model code have different suspension parts then the other model. check with local dealer or give vehicle VIN number when ordering parts to make sure it will fit and is the correct part.

 

 

Technical Abreviations:

 

5MT- 5 speed manual transmission

6MT- 6 speed manual transmission

4EAT- 4 speed automatic transmission

ABS- Antilock Braking System

AWD- All Wheel Drive

Bhp- Brake Horsepower

BOV- Blow off Valve

CAI- cold air intake

Cat- Catalytic Converter

CEL- Check engine light

CF- Carbon fiber *or* cubic feet

CVT- Continuously Variable Transmission

Diff- Differential

DIN- The standard radio slot (about 7"w x 2"h)

DOHC- Dual over head camshafts

Dyno- the “rolling road” where a vehicle’s power is tested

ECU- Engine Control Unit

EFI- Electronic Fuel Injection

EGR- Exhaust Gas Recirculation

ECT - Electronically Controlled Transmission

EFI – Electronic Fuel Injection

EG – Subaru 6-cylinder engines (up through mid to late 90’s)

EG33 – Subaru 3.3 litre 6-cylinder engine code (SVX)

EJ – Subaru 4-cylinder engines (early 90’s and newer)

EJ20 – Subaru 2.0 litre 4-cylinder engine code

EJ205 – Subaru 2.0 litre turbo engine (US WRX)

EJ22 – Subaru 2.2 litre 4-cylinder engine code

EJ25 – Subaru 2.5 litre 4-cylinder engine code

EJ255 – Subaru 2.5 litre turbo engine (US Forester XT, Baja Turbo)

EJ257 – Subaru 2.5 litre turbo engine (US WRX STi)

EZ – Subaru 6-cylinder engines (post EG series H6 engines)

EZ30R – Subaru 3.0 litre 6-cylinder engine code (BL/BP Legacy and new Outback)

F4- Flat four (boxer motor)

FDR - Final Drive Ratio

FMIC- Front Mounted intercooler

FWD- Front Wheel Drive

H4 – Horizontally Opposed 4 cylinder (boxer)

H6 – Horizontally Opposed 6 cylinder

HID- High Intensity Discharge Headlights

HP- Horsepower (at the crank)

IC or I/C- Intercooler

Kw- Kilowatts (like HP in the metric system) 1kw = ~1.341 HP

LHD- Left Hand drive

LSD- Limited Slip Differential

MAF- Mass Air Flow Sensor

MAP- Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor

NA or N/A- Naturally Aspirated

NOS- Nitrous Oxide Systems

NGK- maker of spark plugs

O2- oxygen

OBD II- On board diagnostics system (95 and up) Also refers to the newest emissions standards.

OEM- Original Equipment Manufacturer

PCV- Positive Crankcase Ventilation (valve)

Pot- number of pistons per caliper (ie: 4 pot brakes)

PSI- Pounds per square inch

RHD- Right Hand Drive

RWD- Rear Wheel Drive

SC or S/C- Supercharger

SOHC- Single over head cams

Speedo- Speedometer

STi- Subaru Technica International

Tach- Tachometer

TB- Throttle body

T/C- Turbocharger

TC- Torque Converter

TCM- Torque Control Module

TCU- Transmission Control Unit

TMIC- Top Mounted Intercooler

TT- Twin Turbo or Turbo Timer

VC- Viscous Coupler

VIN- Vehicle Identification Number

Whp- Wheel Horsepower

WOT- Wide Open Throttle

 

 

Internet Forum/Chat Terms:

 

FTW- For The Win

Bling- The sound light makes when it hits something shiny

DIY- Do it yourself

FWIW- For what its worth

IIRC- If I remember/recall correctly

IMO- In my opinion

lol- Laugh Out Loud (if its extra funny, its LOL)

n00b/newbie – a new person, or inexperienced person

OMG- Oh my god

OT- Off Topic

PITA- Pain in the ass

Post Whore- Person who fills threads with unnecessary garbage in the attempt to boost his/her post total

ROFL- Roll on floor laughing

ROFLMAO- Roll on floor laughing my ass off

STFU- Shut the F**k Up

TTIWWOP- This thread is worthless without pics

WTB- Wanted to Buy

WTF- Whiskey Tango Foxtrot (more commonly known as “What The F**k?”)

TTYL- Talk to you later

 

 

_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

PERFORMANCE SECTION

 

 

Performance Parts and Tuning:

 

As you are about to learn there are alot bolt on performance parts made for your legacy and most parts you find will cost upwards of two to three hundred dollars, yes even an intake. However there are ways of getting around this which I will explain later. The good thing is there are performance parts made for our vehicles, you just have to know what your looking for and where to look for it which is what your about to find out!

The following list does NOT include every performance part made for the older legacy, just a few which I have taken the time to list.

 

 

 

Available Bolt On Performance Parts Overview:

THIS PART LISTING IS FOR A BD LEGACY!

 

MOTOR:

INJEN coldair intake

Weapon R shortram intake

Nology Wires

Magnecore Wires

grounding kits (all)

voltage stabalizers

unorthodox tuner series crank (underdriven)

unorthodox street pulley lightened crank pulley (not underdriven)

unorthodox ultra street pulley set crank and alternator pulley (not underdriven)

GFB power pulley set (not underdriven)

GFB 3 Peice pulley set (not underdriven)

perrin lightened crank pulley (not underdriven)

Web Cams performance cams

Borla headers

Nitrous (most/ not suggested)

Oil Cooler(s)

Weapon R fuel rail adapter

Random Technology High flow catalytic converter or "cat"

catback exhaust(s)

axle back exhaust(s)

center exhaust pipes(s)

check engine light eliminators

all the internals you could want, you can find at a HUGE price..

Turbo kits are able to be found at a rather large price.. (AVO)

 

Suspension:

H&R sport lowering springs

Eibach lowering springs

Whiteline Lowering springs

Intrax lowering spring

whiteline swaybar(s)

cusco swaybar

whiteline swaybar Link(s)

whiteline swaybar brackets

whiteline anti lift kit

KYB GR2 struts

KYB AGX struts

strut tower brace(s)

Rear strut tower brace(s)

K sport coil overs

STI top mounts

universal floor brace

Whiteline subframe lock bolts

 

Brakes:

Brembo drilled & slotted rotors

Brembo drilled or slotted rotors

KVR rotors(same options as brembo rotors)

KVR carbon Pads

EBC green stuff pads

EBC red stuff pads

Stop Tech rotors (same options as brembo rotors)

SS brake lines

speed bleeders

 

What you do with list is up to you, NO that's NOT IT! There's more parts then that but I'm sure by now you get the point. there are parts for your car, you just have to know where to look... Which I'm going to take care of that right now!

(Most) of the parts listed above can be found in a quite ah few places.

 

I nor anyone on this forum is suggesting you use any of the manufactures or part distributors in the list(s) below,(unless otherwise stated directly to you in a different post) this is only some of the websites I have taken the time to gather and put into a list for you. I'm not suggesting you use them for purchasing parts or services because I have not used many of them myself, I'm sure they're all pretty good with parts,services, and customer service however I nor will anyone else on this forum be the blame for you having a bad buying experience.

 

Online Stores:

www.boxer4racing.com

www.pdm-racing.com

www.rallitek.com

www.xcceleration.com

www.vividracing.com

www.perrinperformance.com

www.avoturboworld.com

www.andyautosport.com

www.globalperformanceparts.com

 

Websites for engine internals:

www.fastwrx.com

www.slowboyracing.com

www.atomicspeedware.com

www.bursethracing.com

 

 

Websites for crate motors:

www.subarumotors.net

www.vividracing.com

www.t-rexmotors.com

www.gude.com

www.bursethracing.com

www.nyxracing.com

 

 

Websites for used motors:

www.cjee.com/subaru.htm

www.usedwreckingyards.com

www.engineplace.com

www.actionsalvage.com

www.japaneseengineswarehouse.com

 

 

If your unable to find what you are looking to search www.dogpile.com or www.goole.com If you are still unable to find what you are looking for, post in the forum and I'm sure someone here will be able to point you in the right direction!

 

__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

BUSHING SECTION

 

You can get SuperPro, Whiteline and Noltec bushings. The 95-99 Legacy uses all the same bushings as the 97-01 Impreza.

 

I'm not aware of anyone selling a kit with all the bushings included.

 

The suspension bushings you may want to replace are:

 

Rear Lateral Link (front) (4 bushings)

Rear Lateral Link (rear) (4 bushings)

 

Superpro: SPF1492K (inner f & r) & SPF1497K (outer f & r)

Noltec: N61382 (8 bushings)

 

You can use an adjustable lateral link kit, like the ones made by whiteline and sti, instead of these.

 

Whiteline: KTA108 (4 arms) or KTA107 (2 front arms & 4 rear bushings)

Noltec: N62034 (4 arms)

 

Rear Trailing Links (4 bushings)

 

Superpro: SPF1491K (2 front bushings) & SPF1907K (2 rear bushings)

Noltec: N61383 (2 front bushings) & N61381 (2 rear bushings)

 

Front Lower Arm (inner-front) (2 bushings)

 

Superpro: SPF1390K

Noltec: N51709

 

Front Lower Arm (inner-rear) (2 bushings)

 

Superpro: SPF1387K (no camber change) or SPF1388K (alk effect)

Noltec: N51710 (no camber change)

 

You can use an Anti Lift Kit, also available from whiteline, instead of these.

 

Whiteline: KCA361 (comfort), KCA319A (medium) or KCA319M (race)

 

Front Sway Bar (2 bushings)

Rear Sway Bar (2 bushings)

 

These should be ordered according to the diameter of your sway bars.

 

Whiteline: W0404-18, W0404-20, W0404-22, W0404-24 (last 2 digits are diameter in mm)

Noltec: N22383 (18mm), N22352 (20mm), N22353 (22mm), N22354 (24mm)

Superpro: SPF1383-__K (15,16,17,18,19,20,21,22,23,24,25.4 & 29mm)

 

Front Endlinks (4 bushings)

Rear Endlinks (4 bushings)

 

Usually people replace the entire endlinks with stronger alloy versions available from whiteline, noltec, perrin, sti, etc instead of just changing the bushings.

 

Other bushings you might want to replace are:

 

Rear Differential Mount (2 bushings)

 

Superpro: SPF2664K

 

Rear Differential Outrigger (2 bushings)

 

Whiteline: KSB751

Superpro: SPF1978K

 

Transmission Crossmember Bushings (2 bushings)

 

Superpro: SPF2358K

 

Steering Rack (2 bushings)

 

There are also a number of bushings in the shift linkage.

 

Front bushing

Rear bushing

Linkage Bushings

 

These are available from Kartboy & Turn In Concepts

 

If you have all those you'll definitely also want Group-N mounts

 

Engine mounts (2)

Pitch Stop Mount

Transmission Mount

 

You'll probably also want to replace the front ball joints (if you're lowered check out the whiteline roll center correction kit), and the inner and outer tie rod ends.

 

Manufacturer sites:

www.superpro.com.au/

www.noltecsuspension.com/

www.whiteline.com.au/

 

Distributors:

www.globalperformanceparts.com/ (Whiteline & Superpro)

www.oakos.com/ (Noltec)

 

__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

MOTOR AND TRANNY SWAP SECTION

 

 

Motor Swaps:

 

Now that we have that out of the way, I'm sure your wondering if it's possible to do a motor swap. Bottomline is yes anything is possible if you have enough money to do it! Motor swaps have been done with the BD models forsure, I'm not inclined if they have been done on other models, However It is NOT suggested that you keep your 4EAT in the vehicle if your going to put in a turbo motor, they do not hold up well with boost. There is also an amazing amount of wiring that must be done for these swaps. besure you look into this completely before you make the jump!

 

If you are considering swapping engines in your legacy you should know from the beginning it is not as simple as swapping your brother's civic hatch. Mechanically it's not too bad, depending on the extent of what you are swapping (I'll explain this later), but there is a lot of wiring. And when I say a lot, I mean a LOT.

 

The reason for this is that subaru's use one large wiring harness for the whole car, unlike say a honda which has a harness for the engine and a harness for the car, which you can pretty much splice the connectors and be done. With subarus, you will have to splice the two harnesses together at some point along the way, whether its in the dash or right after the ECU.

 

 

Motors:

 

That being said; Mechancially it's pretty straightforeward. Any EJ series engine will bolt to any EJ series transmission, and any EJ series drivetrain will fit into any car that had an EJ series drivetrain in it before. This pretty much means that if you have a post 1990 4 cylinder in there now, you can put any other post 1990 4 cylinder in.

 

The exception to this EJ series engine rule is the EJ20tt (twin turbo). This mechanically would bolt up, but it was never available in the united states, and therefore the way the turbos are routed makes it impossible to install and have it clear the steering rack on a left hand drive car. If you want to do a right hand drive conversion just so you can upgrade to a single turbo to make any power later, go right ahead. Otherwise, leave these motors for the dune buggy and VW beetle guys.

 

Common swap motors that WILL fit are:

-USDM EJ20t (US wrx engine)

-USDM EJ25t (EJ257) (US STi engine)

-USDM EJ22t (US 90-94 legacy turbo engine)

-JDM EJ20t, EJ20G, EJ20K (Japanese wrx/sti engines of varying years)

- A hybrid of two or more of these (to be discussed later)

 

Each of these motors has it's own advantages and disadvantages. I'll go into each briefly.

 

USDM EJ20t -- This is the motor out of the US Impreza WRX. It's 2 litres, and generally makes around 160whp stock. The biggest advantage of this motor is that it's fairly common in this day and age. The WRX has been in the states for 5 years now, and there is tons of aftermarket support for the platform. You can purchase pretty much any motor upgrade for whatever year wrx whose motor you took and use it with the same results. Also, if it breaks, it's easy to find someone who knows how to fix it, and easy to find parts. Just go to your local subaru dealership. Really the only disadvantage with this setup is cost, most of these motors are still pretty new. However, deals are to be had if you know the right people. Also, if you plan to go very high horsepower (400+) You'll have to do a LOT of modification, including possibly swapping the block for something different. If you have the money to do that, you might want to start with a better platform, or a hybrid platform.

 

USDM EJ25t (EJ257) -- This is the motor out of the US STi. It is rated at 300hp at the crank stock, and is a great motor. You can go to extremely high horsepower levels with the right upgrades. With built internals, this motor has tons of potential. It is also more torquey than the 2 litre motors. It has the same convenience of parts and repair availability as the USDM EJ20t, plus the increased potential. However, the offset is cost. These motors are difficult, and therefore costly, to track down. As said before, if you know the right people this can be reduced, but look to spend around 7-10k for everything you'd want for a swap. Also, the wiring can be a bit more difficult for various reasons, some of which is the transmission, but I'll cover transmissions later.

 

USDM EJ22t -- This is the motor out of the 1st generation Legacy Turbos (SS's). If you haven't figured out the system by now, this motor is 2.2 litres. The advantage of this motor all comes down to how sturdy the block is. It is a closed deck (not as much coolant runs through the block itself), so the cylinder walls are much more supported. With built internals, this motor can be a real killer, as you can run obcenely high levels of boost without having to have the block sleeved, and if you do, I doubt youd ever ever blow it up, ever. This being said, this motor comes with it's share of disadvantages. First and foremost, they stopped making the legacy turbo in 1994. The engine is old, and so are the cars they come out of. They are difficult to find, and even more difficult to find ones that arent high mileage or broken already. Therefore, if you go this route, plan on at least doing a basic rebuild. Also, this motor is not OBDII in and of itself. That makes things interesting with wiring if you have to pass emmissions. Lastly, the heads don't flow well, the turbo is wimpy, and the transmisions will have just as many miles as the motor. More on this in the hybrid motor section.

 

JDM EJ20G -- This is the JDM v2-v3 STi motor. Similar in many ways to the USDM EJ20t in terms of parts interchangeability (by NO means the same, but similar). The wiring is interesting, because you have to decipher JDM wiring diagrams, but it can be done, and isnt that much harder than a USDM swap. You run into the same OBDII problem with this motorset. The largest advantage of this setup is that the EJ20G is also a closed deck block, only 2 litres instead of 2.2. The best way to do this swap is to find a JDM STi front clip, and get everything, so you don't have to worry about tracking down little parts you need for an already pulled motor.

 

JDM EJ20K,t -- This encompasses the remainder of the JDM STi and WRX motors. Power levels vary a bit, but its all pretty much an EJ20. All the same disadvantages as an EJ20G, with no sealed deck. Good motors, good turbos, fun out of the box, and inexpensive. Plan on taking your time with the wiring, or you'll regret it later.

 

Hybrid motors -- Basically, this is what the name says. You take two or more of the motors from above, and combine the parts you want. This requires more knowhow in terms of engine building, as you have to deal with changing compression ratios with different heads and ECU tuning, but its definitely worth it if you have the cash to do it right. One good combination is to get everything for a WRX swap, and use the EJ22t block with the WRX heads, turbo, etc. You can use an STi turbo with any of the above platforms, really whatever you want. As I said though, this requires more mechanical knowhow.

 

Transmissions:

 

4EAT automatic -- I don't have much personal experience with this transmission, however I do know it doesn't handle much aftermarket power well. You also have to find a motor or ECU for your motor that had an automatic in it before, you can't get a manual ECU to work with an auto tranny as far as I know. Luckily for those of you who would want one (i havent met anyone yet, but im sure they exist), the USDM and JDM WRXs came in automatic form.

 

5 speed manual -- This is the standard 5 speed manual that subaru puts in most everything. If you have a 5 speed, chances are its built off of this platform. The strength of these transmissions, ive discovered, is all pretty much the same. Different gear ratios, rear end ratios, etc, all make a difference when putting a motorset together, but for the most part they are all the same. The exception to this (There always seems to be one haha) is the JDM STi 5 speed, which was available with the DCCD. This transmission is stronger than the regular 5 speed (Cryo treated gears). It also has the variable center diff (DCCD), which can be wired in to work if you get it with a front clip, or even a pulled motor with all the stuff.

 

6 speed manual -- USDM STi trans. Much more sturdy than the 5 speeds in any form, plus the DCCD. Don't be mistaken, its still a subaru transmission, you can still break it. Wiring the DCCD in can be a pain, especially if you are putting this in without the rest of the STi stuff (ie on a hybrid motor).

 

__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

COMMON REPAIRS AND ISSUSES

 

OVERHEATING:

 

If your legacy is overheating from time to time, and spiting coolant all over the place nine times out of ten you have a blown head gasket (not always, but most cases) If you have a warranty get it into the shop ASAP to have it fixed!

Certain 1999 through 2002 2.5L equipped vehicles may experience an external coolant leak at the head gaskets.

Only early Phase II 2.5 liter engines are affected. Phase I 2.5 liter engines (some 1999 model year and prior years) are not affected. In the future, it will be necessary to add Genuine Subaru Cooling System Conditioner to the SUBARU vehicle cooling system whenever the engine coolant is replaced.

 

 

 

 

Related Informitive Sites:

 

http://www.cars101.com/subaru_links.html < TONS of Subaru related links.

http://www.cars101.com/legacy.html < Every Specification you'll ever need. (almost)

http://www.cars101.com/subaru_terms.html < more helpful information about subarus

http://www.legacycentral.org/library/transmission/convert.htm < how to on transmission swap and more about subaru legacy swaps

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_EJ_engine < good information on "EJ" engines and when, where and in what they're used.

http://autorepair.about.com/od/obdcodedatabase/The_Exhaustive_Database_of_OBDI_and_OBDII_Engine_Codes.htm < Data base for all OBD system codes

http://www.premiersubaru.com/terms.asp < explains and has pictures of almost everything on a subaru

http://consumerguideauto.howstuffworks.com/1995-to-1999-subaru-legacy-2.htm < consumer guide recalls and BD issues/warnings

http://www.cars101.com/recalls.html < more subaru recalls/warnings

 

 

> > > > > > PLEASE FEEL FREE TO ADD ON TO THIS SO THAT WE CAN CUT OUT MOST OF THE UNNEEDED THREADS!< < < < < <

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Suspension; BD/BK's can use any suspension made for a WRX. You need to change the tophats over to the legacy ones, and get suspension off a wrx sedan if you have a sedan or a wrx wagon if you have a wagon. BE/BH's are out of luck unfortunately.

 

Clutch; any clutch and flywheel made for the RS or 2.5l NA scoob will also work; fidanza (9lb), ACT and Exedy (14lbs) are the most common flywheels, along with ACT, Exedy, and Spec for uprated clutches.

 

Engine: Any headers for the RS/2.5l NA will work; Equal length headers from OBX, TWE, Cobb, etc will work on all BD's and BE's (and wagon variants) at the very least (I know someone here running OBX headers on his BC as well).

 

Delta regrinds cams for ~$85/cam (x2 if you have Phase 2 SOHC or x4 if you have DOHC) , very good value compared to the other competition and the mild profile is mild enough to not make your ECU angry at you while still making good gains (cams are the best power adder short of a full build on an NA subaru application). Lightweight pulleys; many lightweight crank pulleys out there, included PowerA, Mr. Josh, Perrin, all can be had for under $100.

 

Brakes: any brake conversion for the WRX/RS's will work on BD/BE's (again wagon variant, not sure about the older models). BD's got smaller front brakes than WRX - popular upgrade is the WRX front brakes 11.4" for the front. BE's varied with their front brake sizes - earlier models got the same fronts as BD's, newer GT's (gt only) got WRX sized brakes (03+). All BE/BH's got the "h6 brakes" which are non vented 11.5" rotors.

 

4pots front brake calipers will fit. Rear vented brakes from the older Legacy SS will fit. Best bang for the buck IMO is the 05+ LGT brakes; 2nd biggest brakes being sported in the subaru family (behind brembos; 12.3" front, 11.5" rear but vented unlike the H6).

 

Brake pads; any brake pads for WRX/RS brakes will fit; they use the same caliper. Only CAVEAT IS TO MATCH THE YEAR YOUR CALIPERS ARE MADE with the proper brake pads. 02-03 WRX's got 2 different types of brake pads for the front. 03+ BE's got the same brake pads as the 03+ wrx's. Older cars use the older style brake pads from the GC 2.5RS.

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Engine: Any headers for the RS/2.5l NA will work; Equal length headers from OBX, TWE, Cobb, etc will work on all BD's and BE's (and wagon variants) at the very least (I know someone here running OBX headers on his BC as well).

 

 

Brakes: any brake conversion for the WRX/RS's will work on BD/BE's (again wagon variant, not sure about the older models). BD's got smaller front brakes than WRX - popular upgrade is the WRX front brakes 11.4" for the front. BE's varied with their front brake sizes - earlier models got the same fronts as BD's, newer GT's (gt only) got WRX sized brakes (03+). All BE/BH's got the "h6 brakes" which are non vented 11.5" rotors.

 

 

Watch out for the dreaded PZEV engine in the 04 BE for CA spec vehicles. Std headers will not work.

engine code EJ253.

 

My BE had 11.3" solid rear rotors.

 

In any case. HAVE FUN

 

Great rundown. Thx a lot.

 

O.

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How bout a sticky on this?

 

i think we should just sticky a thread with links to the reference threads like this. there has to be at VERY least ten with assloads of info like this...

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i think we should just sticky a thread with links to the reference threads like this. there has to be at VERY least ten with assloads of info like this...

 

maybe I have misunderstood what you were trying to say however... Yes there are alot of threads like this but alot of those threads are for the newer legacy only and they don't cover a whole lot on performance parts or where to get them. which is why I have taken the time to do this, I believe if it's going to get *sticky it should stay here. :spin:

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another word on this.

 

11.5 is the largest that will fit a 16" rim. either front or back.

 

I used (and still do) my oem rims for winter and 17" for summer.

 

For those that don't have snow issues,this doesn't matter. The larger the better in brakes.

 

Another source for rotors www.raceshopper.com . good prices and products

 

 

O.

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Delta regrinds cams for ~$85/cam (x2 if you have Phase 2 SOHC or x4 if you have DOHC) , very good value compared to the other competition and the mild profile is mild enough to not make your ECU angry at you while still making good gains

 

Hey rougeben83, if you can go alittle more into detail about this cam thing, people keep pming me for information about this. Which I don't have, nor do I know anything about. so if you could just write up alittle more about these, that would be great, I.E. website to get them from, probable gains, who should get this done, who shouldn't, noticable difference in performance, your own review and anything else you can think of.... etc etc.... :rolleyes: thanks...

 

-Tund

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Dude..........Awesome!!!! Thanks for laying it down in a such a comprehensive way. Kudos.

 

We need more stuff like this and I agree with turntable, a sticky with reference threads would be great.

 

importtund, what we're kindof getting at would be that there would be one for this forum (older leggy performace) and another for the newer ones (maybe in the first Legacy forum).

 

There would then be a place to consolidate the beautiful work you have done here along with say wiring lists, CEL codes, etc.

 

If anything this deserves a sticky of its own at least. Again, EXCELLENT work!!!!

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Dude..........Awesome!!!! Thanks for laying it down in a such a comprehensive way. Kudos.

 

We need more stuff like this and I agree with turntable, a sticky with reference threads would be great.

 

importtund, what we're kindof getting at would be that there would be one for this forum (older leggy performace) and another for the newer ones (maybe in the first Legacy forum).

 

There would then be a place to consolidate the beautiful work you have done here along with say wiring lists, CEL codes, etc.

 

If anything this deserves a sticky of its own at least. Again, EXCELLENT work!!!!

 

 

didn't exacly understand the way turntable put, :redface: but sounds good to me!

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Hey rougeben83, if you can go alittle more into detail about this cam thing, people keep pming me for information about this. Which I don't have, nor do I know anything about. so if you could just write up alittle more about these, that would be great, I.E. website to get them from, probable gains, who should get this done, who shouldn't, noticable difference in performance, your own review and anything else you can think of.... etc etc.... :rolleyes: thanks...

 

-Tund

 

Sure, straight from our pm's :lol:

 

Yes, Delta doesn't keep cores like Cobb or TWE, so you have to send your cams in, or buy a used set of cams (that's what I did, the seller offered to send it straight to delta so I save some on the shipping) and sell yours later when you install it. you can check out RS25.com's NA tuning section and NASIOC NA tuning about the delta cams too.

 

They offer two grind profiles now, one mild and one race (or spicy as Cobb puts them). http://www.deltacam.com/ is the website. You'll need to call them up and talk to them about your engine and stuff so they can recommend to you what profile will suit your needs.

 

And yeah, regrind just means they change the timing of the cams by grinding down/adding some material on the nubs that open and close the valves. According to their website, they also inspect the cam before and after the grind on a cam-reading machine of some sort (it's like a follower that traces the profile on the cam nub).

 

Their setups isn't as aggressive as comparable profiles from TWE or Cobb though, but I'm guessing since Delta isn't a Subaru specialist (they seem to do a lot more V8's and the like) they didn't want to push the envelope too much, but I got my SOHC cams reground for $161 for the mild profile, with the return shipping included (I had the guy I bought my set from send it straight to delta)

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1224817&highlight=skidd[url=http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1224817&highlight=skidd][/url]

 

See that link for a quick vid clip and impressions from someone who installed it on his RS.

 

Typically for the mild cams it's around 12-15hp+ gain by itself. The typical route is add the supporting bolt-ons, exhaust, intake, equal-length header, and you're looking at around an honest 200bhp from 165bhp.

 

Add highflow heads to that ($$) and you're making a reliable 220bhp out of your NA car.

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Not true, i've never actually seen BJ wagon, only BG's. BG's are certainly not only outbacks. Mines a BG6. Oh, and it's MY94 :p

 

I think this applies for JDM, I have no idea about USDM

 

 

Well, thank you for pointing that out! ;) but here's to cover your concern with the BJ model...

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_Legacy

Chassis code

  • BC - Sedan
  • BJ - Wagon
  • BF - Touring Wagon (high roof line)
  • Chassis code
  • BD - sedan
  • BK - wagon
  • BG - high-roof wagon

That webasite only states that the BJ was from 90-94 but it was actually in production since 89, just not sold in the US.....

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Well, thank you for pointing that out! ;) but here's to cover your concern with the BJ model...

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_Legacy

Chassis code

  • BC - Sedan
  • BJ - Wagon
  • BF - Touring Wagon (high roof line)
  • Chassis code
  • BD - sedan
  • BK - wagon
  • BG - high-roof wagon

That webasite only states that the BJ was from 90-94 but it was actually in production since 89, just not sold in the US.....

 

Ha-ha, i made a silly. When saying BJ i was meaning BK. I've never actually seen a BK wagon. I assume the BK was a US only thing, as all Gen2 wagons, outback or not, in NZ (Japanese and Australian domestic markets) are labelled as BG chassis. Sorry for nit-picking :rolleyes:

 

Edit: Found one! pictured is a BK legacy, notable diferences are: Orange on the rear lights, instead of white, Different roof rack set up, and of course, the smooth roof line

 

BK:

http://www.legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=37455&d=1179880806

http://www.legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=37456&d=1179880806

 

http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa208/Pilot_Reuben/mags1.jpg

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  • 2 months later...
I was wondering if a WRX or STI exhaust would work on a BD, I've heard of a few people doing that and was wondering if it just bolted right up or if there were some modifications that needed to be made? Thank you in advance.
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  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...

I will be replacing my 5mt soon with a newer lower mileage 5mt... possibly WRX if I can find it cheaply... I know the gears and the 5mt itself is the same. What about the rear diff? If I get a new one, will I need new axles? Should I keep my current rear diff and just swap the tranny?

 

BTW I have a '98 Leg GT... 165k miles on the trans, and it is starting to slip ( not at the clutch)'

 

Thanks Guys

 

 

I found the FD is the 4.111 so I assume that I have the r160 Rdiff... I can use any trans with a r160 Rdiff and use the same axles?

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

is there any info on the BH wagon? ive managed to find info on the newer and older but not for my specific model lol

any help plz?

 

p.s sorry for bringing the thread back to life

03 BH

Mods: Group A Alt & Crank Pullys and end links,

CIA, JDM L7 Grille, JDM HID lights, JDM rear tails

Stromung CBE, KYB GR2's W/ H&R springs.

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