Leonardo Posted January 9, 2008 Share Posted January 9, 2008 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 Here's what the bulletin says Make sure the mesh screen is installed in the proper direction; incorrect installation will cut off oil supply to the turbo Ok, so the bolt only goes in one way so there is no possibility of screw-up there. I am assuming that the mesh has a closed end and an open end. The closed end is supposed to face the top of the bolt, is that correct? I've never seen one yet so I'm just asking about that particular sentence that stood out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
integroid Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 Here's what the bulletin says Ok, so the bolt only goes in one way so there is no possibility of screw-up there. I am assuming that the mesh has a closed end and an open end. The closed end is supposed to face the top of the bolt, is that correct? I've never seen one yet so I'm just asking about that particular sentence that stood out. You are correct. Just take the screen out and leave it out:) Or buy another bolt from Subaru and it will ahve the screen in it. Make sure you get the right part though. The one you are looking for goes to the turbo inlet but is the one that mounts on the block, not the turbo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 I have it noted down as being part #1445AA090 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
integroid Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 Yup, 090 is the correct part number:) Make sure and get a few extra cooper crush washers as well. Good Luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyT Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 :subscribe: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 I read they're not crush washers but yes, I'll order them too. Why the extras? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilT Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 I read they're not crush washers but yes, I'll order them too. Why the extras? They are copper washers, and can be reused if you anneal them. Double Award Winning Legacy GT Wagon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mccorry Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 You can use them without annealing.... as well. I've never had one leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilT Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 You can use them without annealing.... as well. I've never had one leak. You are taking a huge risk Steve, your whole engine could blow, or even your tranny fail if you don't Double Award Winning Legacy GT Wagon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mccorry Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 I like to live on the edge! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 They are copper washers, and can be reused if you anneal them. Dear sir, you insult me. Why would I anal anything with my copper washers?!? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
integroid Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 They are copper washers, and can be reused if you anneal them. It seems like people keep dropping them into the depth of the engine compartment. I would be pissed if I took it all apart and lost a $1 washer and had to get a ride to Subaru to get another one:) If you ahve the turbo off, it is cake. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apex-XT Posted January 15, 2008 Share Posted January 15, 2008 Subscribe! 300k miles, BNR 16g, CryoTune, 'Bullet-Proofed' IC, Motor rebuild @ 250k b/c of a cracked exhaust valve. Original 5 EAT. Oil changed religiously @ 3,000 mi. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roppongi Sho Posted January 18, 2008 Share Posted January 18, 2008 :subscribe: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejoy1220 Posted January 18, 2008 Share Posted January 18, 2008 Quick question regarding having this checked. The dealer is wanting to charge me to simply check this, as it's a little PITA to get at apparently. Wtf, if there is a TSB for it, shouldn't it be a free check/fix? I'll do it myself, but I REALLY don't want to be laying on the snowy ground in 10* weather wrenching on a car, been there wayyyyyy too many times before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rporter Posted January 18, 2008 Share Posted January 18, 2008 In general, for any mfr, a TSB does not give you a free service. The freebies come with a recall, or a "secret" recall. Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeFromPA Posted January 18, 2008 Share Posted January 18, 2008 Wow, I'm not officially up-to-date on banjo bolt issues with LGTs....after spending 25 minutes reading 15 pages worth of information. My main concern: Back on page 5, it was being discussed that the oil goes basically from the oil filter to the turbo (i.e. not much intervening space for it to pick up crap). RyanE made this point, and posted a diagram of engine oil flow. I looked over the diagram, and it seems to indicate the opposite. It looks like the oil flow for the turbocharger is the turbocharger is LAST in one of the flow paths before going back to the pan. Am I incorrect in stating this? No one has mentioned it, but it seems like development of an inline-oil filter directly prior to the turbocharger, and removal of the banjo bolt filter, is the way to get worry-free clean oil (plus longer OCIs on good synthetic) and no longer concern yourself with poor banjo bolt design. Is there just no room for such a custom inset? Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
urfsin Posted January 18, 2008 Share Posted January 18, 2008 ^^Good question!! Slide It Sideways Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanE Posted January 19, 2008 Share Posted January 19, 2008 My main concern: Back on page 5, it was being discussed that the oil goes basically from the oil filter to the turbo (i.e. not much intervening space for it to pick up crap). RyanE made this point, and posted a diagram of engine oil flow. I looked over the diagram, and it seems to indicate the opposite. It looks like the oil flow for the turbocharger is the turbocharger is LAST in one of the flow paths before going back to the pan. Am I incorrect in stating this? No one has mentioned it, but it seems like development of an inline-oil filter directly prior to the turbocharger, and removal of the banjo bolt filter, is the way to get worry-free clean oil (plus longer OCIs on good synthetic) and no longer concern yourself with poor banjo bolt design. Is there just no room for such a custom inset? Joe Hi Joe, How I read the oil flow diagram is thusly: oil pan -> oil strainer -> oil pump rotor -> oil cooler -> oil (filter) element -> Cylinder block main gallery RH -> #1, #3 cylinder head RH -> oil pipe -> Turbocharger -> oil pan It seems that the oil has a long way to go, but it doesn't really go "through" anything in the same way that, for example, the #1 connecting rod bearing gets oil that has hit the #1 journal bearing (front) first. That was my reasoning that the oil wouldn't pick up much cruft on the way. Does that make sense? As for an inline filter, you would probably have to replace the oil pipe that feeds the AVCS and the turbo with flex hose with the proper fittings to install the hose back onto the turbo and AVCS solenoid. Doable, but you might be better served by running synthetic oil and/or a bypass filter. -Ryan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John M Posted February 23, 2008 Share Posted February 23, 2008 So, today I decided to pull the infamous banjo bolt that supplies the turbo to see if the filter was clogged, and of course to remove it as well. Right now there's no way I'm going to remove that bolt. Sure, I've removed everything else and just have to unscrew the banjo bolt to remove it. Why won't I? Because there's no way in hell I'll ever get the rear copper washer back on! I know my hands won't be able to replace something I can't even see from above, let alone try to put back into place while inserting the banjo bolt. Suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoozeRS05 Posted February 23, 2008 Share Posted February 23, 2008 ppl are using tape or fishing line to hang the washer in place then thread the bolt.. Sounds like a pretty good method to me. EB's Subaru journal - 2005 LegacyGT Wagon & 2014 Forester FB25 (2008 specB - RIP) IG@legacygtliving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluesuby Posted February 23, 2008 Share Posted February 23, 2008 Should we be worried about a clogged filter if we change oil every 3000 and use a synthetic that won't cook? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boostjunkie Posted February 23, 2008 Share Posted February 23, 2008 Should we be worried about a clogged filter if we change oil every 3000 and use a synthetic that won't cook? I wouldn't be. I've pulled several now from cars that I have known to be well maintained and all were completely clean. I still pulled out the filters since I had the banjo bolt out, but I wouldn't lose any sleep over leaving them in either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sickdrift Posted February 23, 2008 Share Posted February 23, 2008 Should we be worried about a clogged filter if we change oil every 3000 and use a synthetic that won't cook? The dealer is now recommending that the bolt/filter (sold as a single unit) be replaced every 30,000mi now. To get the best life from my turbo I would service it as recommended. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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