xt2005bonbon Posted August 15, 2016 Share Posted August 15, 2016 As Max said, it does not matter if the opening is aligned with the flow of oil since the oil line at the banjo bolt fitting has oil flowing all around the bolt. That's why you see that 'bulge' on the oil line where the banjo bolt goes into. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smithcraft Posted August 16, 2016 Share Posted August 16, 2016 Good to know! Thanks you! SC 1994 Legacy MI 2008 Legacy GT specB 2023 Crosstrek Limited Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dvancleve Posted August 20, 2016 Share Posted August 20, 2016 0w-40 is a BAD idea. 5w-40 Shell Rotella t6 if you want to stay with oil you can get very easy. The 0w40 Mobil 1 is very highly regarded on BITOG (Bob is the Oil Guy). It has a lot of very stringent certifications including VW 502 & 505. It may not be better in a turbo Subie than the various 5w40 synthetic diesel oils, but it is certainly good enough for any reasonable use. IMHO of course, Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 20, 2016 Share Posted August 20, 2016 I still don't like the 0 in a engine not designed to use it. In fact in a high mileage engine in your area AZ, a 10w would not be a bad idea in the hot weather. I used to use Rotella 15w-40 t5 in the summer time here in CT when the car had 120,000 miles or so. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dvancleve Posted August 20, 2016 Share Posted August 20, 2016 0w-40 is a BAD idea. 5w-40 Shell Rotella t6 if you want to stay with oil you can get very easy. I still don't like the 0 in a engine not designed to use it. In fact in a high mileage engine in your area AZ, a 10w would not be a bad idea in the hot weather. I used to use Rotella 15w-40 t5 in the summer time here in CT when the car had 120,000 miles or so. I strongly considered just running 15w40 in my OBXT, since it is hot often here in AZ and cold maybe a few days a year. In the end, I decided to run appropriate synthetics since I only change my oil about twice a year... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HAMMER DOWN Posted August 21, 2016 Share Posted August 21, 2016 I still don't like the 0 in a engine not designed to use it. Come on max, 0w is fine as long you run top grade oil & filtration products:) Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 21, 2016 Share Posted August 21, 2016 Come on max, 0w is fine as long you run top grade oil & filtration products:) I kind of figured it was just a matter of time until you showed up, 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b00st Posted September 12, 2016 Share Posted September 12, 2016 What a great thread, guys! Took me quite a time to complete. I'm on Outback XT(2500) 2008. I think I was able to find one. It sits just under turbo intake, vertically, with a "niple" on the head. Not sure which one is the right one, though. Could anyone advise? http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b13/type_46/intake_and_supply_system_turbocharger/turbo_charger/ #4 or #9? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 14, 2016 Share Posted September 14, 2016 What a great thread, guys! Took me quite a time to complete. I'm on Outback XT(2500) 2008. I think I was able to find one. It sits just under turbo intake, vertically, with a "niple" on the head. Not sure which one is the right one, though. Could anyone advise? http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b13/type_46/intake_and_supply_system_turbocharger/turbo_charger/ #4 or #9? I believe that is the picture of a 2005-2006. The 07-09's have the banjo with the filter is vertical on top of the head. In your picture, #4 is the banjo on top of the turbo. #9 is the water cooling to the head. You can leave yours alone in most cases, vertical seems to work ok. My 09 still has both of them in. Just use good oil and keep up with OCI's. Found this on page 1102 in the 2008 service manual. http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/ (A) Union screw with filter (with protrusion) (B) Union screw without filter (without protrusion) Also see page 1055 item 30 and 31. Also check out page 5344 for more info to keep you reading. Lot's of info you may want to know of. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 Wow, this still goes on. If it makes you feel better, ditch the screens. If you suspect an obstruction in the OEM line, replace it. Change your oil every 3000-3750. You should not have any issues. None of my own LGT's ever did. I even ran a used (purchased off the forum) VF40 on an 08 (VF-46 originally) for 50k miles with zero issues. Sure the bearing seals were leaking when I got rid of the car, but I bought the turbo for $300. LOL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b00st Posted September 20, 2016 Share Posted September 20, 2016 Thank you guys! But this is the main concern, I don't know whether former owner followed right OCI. A car now has 83 000 miles (~132 000km) I've been following OCI since I bought it (13,5k miles ago). Still want to be sure all is good there. I looked for a screw union here: http://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2008_Outback25L-TURBO-5ATXT-Limited/SCREW-UNION/49227604/15194AA110.html so this one definitely not the one. But that one looks like the right thing: http://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2008_Outback25L-TURBO-5ATXT-Limited/SCREW-UNION-TURBO/49226881/14439AA010.html It doesn't have a 'nipple' though. Probably no screen inside. When I was looking for the location of this bolt, I noticed some oil residue right around the turbo inlet. It was covered with dust and didn't seem to soak. It doesn't look right IMHO. Does it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted September 21, 2016 Share Posted September 21, 2016 You dont have to stress about which type of union screw. Buy the proper one (with a filter in it) and remove the filter. Its very easy. If concerned about the line set, you can always replace it with new as well. It is normal for turbo inlet tubes to build up residual oil. It could point to a leak in the tube, it could point to some excessive blow by or it could be nothing. Welcome to the world of turbo Subarus. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b00st Posted September 22, 2016 Share Posted September 22, 2016 Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted September 22, 2016 Share Posted September 22, 2016 Not a problem. Welcome to the forum. Max Capacity has been providing good info in this thread too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 23, 2016 Share Posted September 23, 2016 Not a problem. Welcome to the forum. Max Capacity has been providing good info in this thread too. Thanks Mike, some of that you taught us years ago. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Msf0002 Posted October 25, 2016 Share Posted October 25, 2016 Sorry to bring up an old thread but I just thought you would all want to know this. I am going to buy my friends 05 outback xt that has 220k on it, has blown up three turbos and that last time it blew up it took out the motor as well. He hasn't driven it much at all since the newest turbo went into it and I plan on removing this filter before I even drive it home. I will report back with what it looks like if anyone is interested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 25, 2016 Share Posted October 25, 2016 You may want to put a new filter in the banjo after seeing how much crap is in the old one. Then keep replacing the filter until you get a clean one when checking it. When the engine was replaced, was the oil cooler replaced too ? along with the heads cleaned and rebuilt, new oil pump ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeeeeeYa Posted October 26, 2016 Share Posted October 26, 2016 Sorry to bring up an old thread but I just thought you would all want to know this. I am going to buy my friends 05 outback xt that has 220k on it, has blown up three turbos and that last time it blew up it took out the motor as well. He hasn't driven it much at all since the newest turbo went into it and I plan on removing this filter before I even drive it home. I will report back with what it looks like if anyone is interested. Listen closely... You may want to put a new filter in the banjo after seeing how much crap is in the old one. Then keep replacing the filter until you get a clean one when checking it. When the engine was replaced, was the oil cooler replaced too ? along with the heads cleaned and rebuilt, new oil pump ? Seriously. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Msf0002 Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 I would say that none of that stuff has probably been done. Sounds like a good idea to me though. Is there a better filter option I could install? I won't be picking up the car for another 10 days but I am tight on money. I probably still have time to order the factory replacement filter/banjo bolt. I already plan on ordering this https://m.summitracing.com/parts/lil-24680?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-lisle&gclid=Cj0KEQjw4rbABRD_gfPA2-uQqroBEiQA58MNdF9mSEeFNB-QcQb9UlrwGeI5N3fF1xG5-gW3wl-d6kEaArY78P8HAQ to make sure there is also no air in the cooling system. Any other advice is also appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Msf0002 Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 I live about 15 miles from the summit racing headquarters so I can pick up a lot of stuff from there whenever Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 Lucky you, You can make up your own oil feed line and inline filter, which would be much easier to clean and or replace. I believe the oil feed banjo is a 10mm x 1.25 thread...at the turbo. There's a #4 AN joint just before the banjo. I'll warn you, it may be rusted sealed. I've never been able to break mine loose, I just flex the steel tube out of the way if needed. http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/ the service manual may help you out. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 FYI, its not a -4AN fitting. Its a flared pipe fitting. It is also not NPT, its BSP iirc. It was a bunch of fun making the caps. Lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 30, 2016 Share Posted October 30, 2016 Yes, you are correct. I should have said it appears to look like, but I do know it is not a -4AN. I work with AN, NPT and CPI fittings all day long at work. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
web94 Posted November 14, 2016 Share Posted November 14, 2016 First of all, thanks rao for the write up and everyone's helpful comments. Finally got the time (read courage) to try my hand at this. Got everything out no prob and the filter was clean as a whistle, surprisingly seeing as the car has 135k miles and I'm the third owner. Decided not to put the filter back in and glad I didn't because replacing that washer between the oil line and engine block was one of the most frustrating things I've done. Started the car up to check for any leaks and noted smoke coming from the bolt area, I'm guessing just oil burning off that had dripped out. I'll be keeping an eye on it. Either way, glad that's done haha. Now for that uppipe... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex_ Posted January 15, 2017 Share Posted January 15, 2017 Thanks for the walkthrough. It's still useful in 2017! I consider myself an amateur and i was able to complete this on my 05 Legacy GT. I lost the turbo at ~60k (8 weeks after i bought the car) and now i'm approaching 100k and didn't want to lose another. I also went to remove the other two filters in the AVCS lines to find they were already gone. I remember i was in the shop with idle issues at ~62k, mechanic must have removed them. It all made so much sense after i started reading on here about those filters, too bad i didn't know any better at the time. FYI The filter i removed DID have some particles in there, so i'm really glad i did this, as i imagine it gets worse faster and faster. BTW web94, i used dental floss to lower the washer into place, then when the bolt started threading, i pulled the floss out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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