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2.5GT Turbo Oil Supply Banjo Bolt Filter Removal


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So all of those millions of cars using Fram filters are tempting fate :eek:

 

No but if im gonna buy an oil filter I might as well buy somthing not crappily made. The filter media packed in a comprable sized filter is half of what its competitors use.

 

The bypass valve is so lightly sprung in a fram filter it would not surprise me if ALL the oil was bypassed.

 

Compare the bypass spring and diaphram on a Toyoko Roko (OEM) Filter to a fram filter. The fram filter coil is about the diameter of a small paperclip.

 

More info...

 

http://www.tobycreek.org/oil_filters/fram.shtml

 

http://mymiata.paladinmicro.com/MiataOFilters.htm#FramPureAA

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Have any of you that have checked the screen/bolt replaced the crush washers? Or did you just reuse the existing ones. Any concerns over having a leak from reusage of crush washers?

 

They are not crush washers as I know crush washers such as used on the oil and transmission drain plugs. These are solid copper rings and, to me, would not seem to pose a problem with a use or few. However, just in case I did check with my fingers (only way) to see if there was any leakage after running it. None.

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The copper ones? They arnt crush washers. Did you replace them during your turbo swap?

 

Why do you say that? They are soft, and made from copper to seal the banjo bolt/pipe to the head. W/o them it is a guaranteed leak.

 

I haven't touched them yet, but planned on looking at my screen, and/or removing itwhen I pull the turbo to convert over to an LGT fitment comp cover.

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Maybe I used the wrong term, but they do compress to form a seal. When I tried reusing ones from the coolant banjo fitting, it leaked on me. Had to redrain the coolant, and then track down some new ones, as no one seems to carry metric ones:spin:

 

So I assumed these would be similar?

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I say that because I have a set of new ones and the look the same as the one on there; flat. Unlike the oil plug crush washer that has an area that crushes.

 

You touched them when you did your turbo swap, did you reuse the old ones or get new ones?

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:argue: RC and Edmund - go argue somewhere else. I reused the washers and donot have any leaks.

 

Oil filter nuts - plesae take the discussion elsewhere. We all know that Fram oil fliters are part of a conspiracy by the auto repair industry to cause premature engine failures with weak springs, substandard filter material and worst of all, the Chevy Orange color :lol:

 

$20 - funny :lol:

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Maybe I used the wrong term, but they do compress to form a seal. When I tried reusing ones from the coolant banjo fitting, it leaked on me. Had to redrain the coolant, and then track down some new ones, as no one seems to carry metric ones:spin:

 

So I assumed these would be similar?

 

edmundu, please let us know what your filter looks like. Since you've been doing extended OCI's, I'm interested to see if the most probable failure mode is a gradual accumulation of crap in the filter, or if the most likely scenario is that a large chunk of something gets caught in the filter and it fails suddenly.

The Dude - Two inches and counting...:lol:
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I think we should add a poll for those who have removed the filter.

 

- Nothing on filter.

- Tiny shavings on filter.

- Almost clogged (living on the edge).

 

So far, it seems like rao had nothing and SeeeeYa had tiny shavings.

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I say that because I have a set of new ones and the look the same as the one on there; flat. Unlike the oil plug crush washer that has an area that crushes.

 

You touched them when you did your turbo swap, did you reuse the old ones or get new ones?

 

You can re use copper washers any number of times, just remember to anneal them first. (Heat up to a cherry red, then quench in cold water). That makes them soft again.

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You can re use copper washers any number of times, just remember to anneal them first. (Heat up to a cherry red, then quench in cold water). That makes them soft again.

:orly:

 

 

Bosco, BoxerGT2.5, DeepFreez2, KartRacerDude and Fweasel stop driving your cars immediately!!! Go annel your washers :lol:

 

j/k Phil good thing to know! Thanks :)

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:orly:

 

 

Bosco, BoxerGT2.5, DeepFreez2, KartRacerDude and Fweasel stop driving your cars immediately!!! Go annel your washers :lol:

 

j/k Phil good thing to know! Thanks :)

 

ya rly...I'm with you Phil - I have been known to use the gas grill and a pair of loooonng handled pliers to perform this procedure. Of course, if someone would just post the size of the washers... :)

 

-Ryan

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Copper washers are meant to deform slightly to seal uneven surfaces. Every time they are torqued down, they are work hardened. I have reused copper oil drain plug washers 3-5 times but there is a limit. Eventually, they won't deform enough to properly seal.

 

Frankly, automotive applications aren't that severe and that's probably why we can get away with reusing copper washers.

 

Annealing copper over a barbeque is a common practice for bonsai tree growers.

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12mm x 16mm x 1mm. ID/OD/Thickness. Around by me, no one carries these types of washers in metric.

 

I have a pretty good independent auto parts store by me that has the entire collection of those spare parts bins, so I'll see if they have them...now what's that in inches :)

 

Thanks,

Ryan

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Quote:

Originally Posted by RyanE http://legacygt.com/forums/skynetim/buttons/viewpost.gif

...Of course, if someone would just post the size of the washers... :)

 

-Ryan

 

12mm x 16mm x 1mm. ID/OD/Thickness. Around by me, no one carries these types of washers in metric.

 

I'll bet getting this kit from Subaru would be cheaper and easier.

 

http://scoobymods.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=4294&d=1132120393

 

I took pictures of the bolt and filter I had out and while the bolt head was different I would bet these are otherwise the same, just not meant for filters. In any case the washers certainly would be the same.

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