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Turbo (un)install HOWTO with pics


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That's what I'm worried about, messing up the flange..you can see the pics I posted right? It's quite rusted :/

Anyway, I'll heat and cool, PB, try hammer/wrench/punch, BUT I think I might end up drilling it out with cobalt bit. We'll see.

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I'm also wondering about pre-lubing the turbo.

 

Do I just pour a little in the turbo oil feed hole right before assembly?

Or can I drop the turbo in, hook everything up except the top oil feed line/banjo, and THEN pour a little oil in the turbo oil feed hole, tighten it up, and crank 5-10 times?

 

Thanks

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I pre-lubed the turbo. Bolted it on and fired up the engine. You get oil pressure a lot faster at idle then at cranking rpm.

 

Did the same with the new short block. Let the fuel pump prime, I had the key in the on position a few times before the first start.

 

When it came time to start the new engine, I crossed my fingers, and turned the key to start, the new engine fired up just as the car starts every day. I let it idle for a few seconds then took it up to 2000 rpm for about 15 minutes. Let it idle or find it's idle, then changed the oil and filter, made sure the coolant was full and burped then drove the car.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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The second pic (black, rounded gasket) is the oil drain line gasket that came with the new turbo. It looks....generic, and maybe not the right shape or material.

I say that 'cause the first pic shows the metal oil drain line gasket that was on the old turbo (which can't be more than 4-6 months old).

 

I'd like to just re-use the metal gasket that was on the old turbo in this case. The one that came with the turbo doesn't look stock to me but what do I know.

IMG_5154.thumb.jpg.6cf187afd4a9888c543c485fcb551fe5.jpg

IMG_5162.thumb.jpg.be5c77563c6c16ae4d92b6612691df94.jpg

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I thought all the bad things that were going to happen on this adventure had happened.

 

I just borrowed a car to get oil and filter and get this new turbo in, when I notice this:

 

The wastegate flapper (for lack of proper terminology) the one that opens/closes to create a seal and let off excess air p.s.i. does not seem to close tight and make a seal.

This turbo will not build any boost will it?!?

 

Video up in a minute.

http://youtu.be/a1uHMJC0Di8

 

Might as well ask while I'm waiting:

1. If need be, could I swap the entire wastegate assembly from the old turbo to the new one? By this I mean I now that the part holding the diaphragm is bolted to the turbo housing and that I could undo those, but can I remove the actual metal flapper that covers/uncovers the "air" escape hole on the hot side of the turbo and swap that over as well? It appears as though it would need to have a "pin" or metal rod knocked out, if it's possible at all.

 

2. I just attempted to 'blow' air through the small silicone line that attaches to the wastegate valve (where the diaphragm is) - which by the way I assume operates (opens) on boost, not vacuum, when you let off the gas in the boost range, anyway I attempted to blow air through that WHILE pulling/holding the flapper open. Neither turbo let air pass through (new or old). So either, my lungs cant provide the p.s.i. (very plausible, LOL) to check that way (even with it held open though??), or - that works on .. vacuum? Hmm...

-This "door" needs to be closed tight right?

This is NOT my turbo, image is borrowed. (that is the 'gate' flapper I'm talking about)

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/0908111020a.jpg

Edited by Lambose5
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Can't view pictures here at work.

 

PM HAMMERDOWN, has wastgate wasn't fully closing either.

He's posted pictures.

 

 

He can advise you...

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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could be an oversized weld on the inside of flapper's 'arm' or casting burr on the wg area of the housing (near the hole).

or could be an issue with the actuator assembly: i.e., improperly mounted or spaced, spring/joints may be binding, etc.

 

if you feel like getting into it:

 

releasing the actuator arm via small e-clip may be a good start to isolate whether it's an actuator or internal wg issue. you can better inspect the underside of the wg flapper with the arm unattached.

 

if that checks out, then after you reattach the arm, manually opening the wg from the external arm joint should be relatively easy with a pair of vice grips or the like, so you can try to feel/see what's stopping the actuator.

there should be linear resistance to opening, but a smooth travel. use a rag with the grips to keep from leaving gouges on the joint.

 

all that said, if it's a brand new turbo, and everybody's qc missed that, shame on them. just make sure if you seem to fix it, that it's a consistent and sure fix before installing.

best luck.

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you can better inspect the underside of the wg flapper with the arm unattached.

 

 

Should have done this already - sorry.

Thanks bro, I will check out and investigate some more tonight. I'll be pressing them for a replacement if not a refund.

 

The shape of that "door" isnt the same; the stock one is beveled/tapered, the new one is just a flat piece. I'm referring to the top of it not the part that mates and (is supposed to) cover the hole. FYI.

 

:redface:

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Should have done this already - sorry.

 

:redface:

 

no sorries; i wouldn't touch it if i had a made mind to return it -- but i know the feeling of getting stuck in the middle of a big install, and weighing the prospect of the waiting-return game vs. what could be a quick fix. either way, hope it works out well and fast.

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I'm thinking either return it; working on that now, or swapping the hot side of the old turbo over to the new turbo - any problems with that ya think?

 

AND - Would I have to get the turbo 're-balanced', and 'clocked' and other stuff? Not sure about that...

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^no, turbine housing swap is pretty much a 'tab A-slot B' kind of affair. there's a little finesse to knocking it loose after you undo the band, but a little careful percussion should do; minding that wheel and not beating up the housing are the concerns. Edited by underpowerd
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Things got a bit sketchy here with my pics. I was in a rush to get out of the rain.

 

We need to get back up top in the engine bay. There are three nuts/bolts to be removed to loosen the turbo from the uppipe. The arrow points to the third not shown in the picture.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v334/wcbjr/DSC00451.jpg

 

Ok how do you take the bolt that's not shown off? i've been trying to get to it for the past hour but was unable to. Please help :confused:

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Ok how do you take the bolt that's not shown off? i've been trying to get to it for the past hour but was unable to. Please help :confused:

 

Dude, i've been trying to think of the answer for you but I can't remember. Is there a bracket you have to remove first, something else in the way?

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Dude, i've been trying to think of the answer for you but I can't remember. Is there a bracket you have to remove first, something else in the way?

 

It's the bolt to the right (looking into the engine from the front) of the banjo bolt that is facing up. It's so cramp in there i dont' know which wires to move to get to it. And i don't even know what size the bolt is.

 

Look at the arrow here and it's below the arrow.

 

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q174/truthyaj/Subaru%20Legacy%20Issues/VF40screw_zpsf712ffff.jpg

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The bolt is the same size as all the other UP & DP bolts (14mm). For removal of that bolt. Use a 3/8" drive-14mm swivel socket & 10" extension to break if free. Then I use a 1/4" drive-14mm swivel socket & 10" extension to remove the bolt. It very tight spot, 1/4" works a lot better for removal.

 

Mike

Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold

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The bolt is the same size as all the other UP & DP bolts (14mm). For removal of that bolt. Use a 3/8" drive-14mm swivel socket & 10" extension to break if free. Then I use a 1/4" drive-14mm swivel socket & 10" extension to remove the bolt. It very tight spot, 1/4" works a lot better for removal.

 

Mike

 

 

OMG, thank you so much!! I couldn't have done it without your help. I was able to get it out without a problem. I was able to break loose of the bolt and remove it all in one. Again, thank you much!!

 

So as i was reading through this thread, i didn't see anyone posting Torque Specs when putting the turbo back together.

 

With that said, does anyone know what the torque specs are when putting back the turbo?

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IIRC 26ft.lbs. for all the 14mm bolts & nuts, but I set mine at 30ft.lbs. where I have to use an swivel socket & extension.

 

Mike

 

Thanks again Mike. I will keep that in mind when putting it all back together.

 

I'm somewhat mechanically incline but i haven't done enough of it to get it all but this is my first time replacing a turbo with the guidance of this thread.

 

Thanks for making it available. I will continue to use this thread for references.

 

Now I do have a question regarding my turbo and engine.

 

I'm assuming that replacing the turbo and the banjo bolt will get me back and running again.

 

But my question is, ... is my engine still good?

 

The aftermath of my situation is a blown turbo. But i'm uncertain if my engine is still good or not.

 

What i found was that the coolant and the engine oil some how got leaked into the turbo and the intercooler. I also notice that the oil in my engine was gone even though i just changed it. So some how some way the oil is leaked to the turbo system.

 

I just wanted to make sure that a head gasket problem isn't an issue also.

 

So prior to installing the new turbo, what step should i take to check the engine before installing the new turbo?

 

Any ideas and thoughts would be greatly appreciated. :)

 

Thanks

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