Lambose5 Posted April 16, 2013 Share Posted April 16, 2013 Thanks Max. I've already ordered the gasket & hardware, I'm more concerned with how I'm gonna get the "fused" nuts off the back end of the flange, ya know? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 16, 2013 Share Posted April 16, 2013 BMFH and a punch. Hit the old bolts with a hammer, just don't bend the flanges. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambose5 Posted April 16, 2013 Share Posted April 16, 2013 That's what I'm worried about, messing up the flange..you can see the pics I posted right? It's quite rusted :/ Anyway, I'll heat and cool, PB, try hammer/wrench/punch, BUT I think I might end up drilling it out with cobalt bit. We'll see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambose5 Posted April 16, 2013 Share Posted April 16, 2013 I'm also wondering about pre-lubing the turbo. Do I just pour a little in the turbo oil feed hole right before assembly? Or can I drop the turbo in, hook everything up except the top oil feed line/banjo, and THEN pour a little oil in the turbo oil feed hole, tighten it up, and crank 5-10 times? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 16, 2013 Share Posted April 16, 2013 I pre-lubed the turbo. Bolted it on and fired up the engine. You get oil pressure a lot faster at idle then at cranking rpm. Did the same with the new short block. Let the fuel pump prime, I had the key in the on position a few times before the first start. When it came time to start the new engine, I crossed my fingers, and turned the key to start, the new engine fired up just as the car starts every day. I let it idle for a few seconds then took it up to 2000 rpm for about 15 minutes. Let it idle or find it's idle, then changed the oil and filter, made sure the coolant was full and burped then drove the car. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambose5 Posted April 16, 2013 Share Posted April 16, 2013 Got'em. Best tools in the box; PB blaster and Blow Torch (re-affirmed) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambose5 Posted April 16, 2013 Share Posted April 16, 2013 The second pic (black, rounded gasket) is the oil drain line gasket that came with the new turbo. It looks....generic, and maybe not the right shape or material. I say that 'cause the first pic shows the metal oil drain line gasket that was on the old turbo (which can't be more than 4-6 months old). I'd like to just re-use the metal gasket that was on the old turbo in this case. The one that came with the turbo doesn't look stock to me but what do I know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 17, 2013 Share Posted April 17, 2013 It's the oil return line, no pressure. The old one will be fine. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambose5 Posted April 17, 2013 Share Posted April 17, 2013 Yea boi - thanks a lot for all your help man. Really appreciate it. Tomorrow I'm gonna swap all the hard lines from the old turbo to the new one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambose5 Posted April 22, 2013 Share Posted April 22, 2013 (edited) I thought all the bad things that were going to happen on this adventure had happened. I just borrowed a car to get oil and filter and get this new turbo in, when I notice this: The wastegate flapper (for lack of proper terminology) the one that opens/closes to create a seal and let off excess air p.s.i. does not seem to close tight and make a seal. This turbo will not build any boost will it?!? Video up in a minute. http://youtu.be/a1uHMJC0Di8 Might as well ask while I'm waiting: 1. If need be, could I swap the entire wastegate assembly from the old turbo to the new one? By this I mean I now that the part holding the diaphragm is bolted to the turbo housing and that I could undo those, but can I remove the actual metal flapper that covers/uncovers the "air" escape hole on the hot side of the turbo and swap that over as well? It appears as though it would need to have a "pin" or metal rod knocked out, if it's possible at all. 2. I just attempted to 'blow' air through the small silicone line that attaches to the wastegate valve (where the diaphragm is) - which by the way I assume operates (opens) on boost, not vacuum, when you let off the gas in the boost range, anyway I attempted to blow air through that WHILE pulling/holding the flapper open. Neither turbo let air pass through (new or old). So either, my lungs cant provide the p.s.i. (very plausible, LOL) to check that way (even with it held open though??), or - that works on .. vacuum? Hmm... -This "door" needs to be closed tight right? This is NOT my turbo, image is borrowed. (that is the 'gate' flapper I'm talking about) http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/0908111020a.jpg Edited April 22, 2013 by Lambose5 Link Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 22, 2013 Share Posted April 22, 2013 Can't view pictures here at work. PM HAMMERDOWN, has wastgate wasn't fully closing either. He's posted pictures. He can advise you... 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underpowerd Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 could be an oversized weld on the inside of flapper's 'arm' or casting burr on the wg area of the housing (near the hole). or could be an issue with the actuator assembly: i.e., improperly mounted or spaced, spring/joints may be binding, etc. if you feel like getting into it: releasing the actuator arm via small e-clip may be a good start to isolate whether it's an actuator or internal wg issue. you can better inspect the underside of the wg flapper with the arm unattached. if that checks out, then after you reattach the arm, manually opening the wg from the external arm joint should be relatively easy with a pair of vice grips or the like, so you can try to feel/see what's stopping the actuator. there should be linear resistance to opening, but a smooth travel. use a rag with the grips to keep from leaving gouges on the joint. all that said, if it's a brand new turbo, and everybody's qc missed that, shame on them. just make sure if you seem to fix it, that it's a consistent and sure fix before installing. best luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambose5 Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 you can better inspect the underside of the wg flapper with the arm unattached. Should have done this already - sorry. Thanks bro, I will check out and investigate some more tonight. I'll be pressing them for a replacement if not a refund. The shape of that "door" isnt the same; the stock one is beveled/tapered, the new one is just a flat piece. I'm referring to the top of it not the part that mates and (is supposed to) cover the hole. FYI. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underpowerd Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 Should have done this already - sorry. no sorries; i wouldn't touch it if i had a made mind to return it -- but i know the feeling of getting stuck in the middle of a big install, and weighing the prospect of the waiting-return game vs. what could be a quick fix. either way, hope it works out well and fast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambose5 Posted April 24, 2013 Share Posted April 24, 2013 I'm thinking either return it; working on that now, or swapping the hot side of the old turbo over to the new turbo - any problems with that ya think? AND - Would I have to get the turbo 're-balanced', and 'clocked' and other stuff? Not sure about that... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underpowerd Posted April 25, 2013 Share Posted April 25, 2013 (edited) ^no, turbine housing swap is pretty much a 'tab A-slot B' kind of affair. there's a little finesse to knocking it loose after you undo the band, but a little careful percussion should do; minding that wheel and not beating up the housing are the concerns. Edited April 25, 2013 by underpowerd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyGTurbo Posted April 27, 2013 Share Posted April 27, 2013 Things got a bit sketchy here with my pics. I was in a rush to get out of the rain. We need to get back up top in the engine bay. There are three nuts/bolts to be removed to loosen the turbo from the uppipe. The arrow points to the third not shown in the picture. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v334/wcbjr/DSC00451.jpg Ok how do you take the bolt that's not shown off? i've been trying to get to it for the past hour but was unable to. Please help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambose5 Posted April 27, 2013 Share Posted April 27, 2013 Ok how do you take the bolt that's not shown off? i've been trying to get to it for the past hour but was unable to. Please help Dude, i've been trying to think of the answer for you but I can't remember. Is there a bracket you have to remove first, something else in the way? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambose5 Posted April 27, 2013 Share Posted April 27, 2013 This is the inside of my turbo housing (hotside) and the turbine wheel. Can I swap this to the new turbo and use it, or is this to much? http://youtu.be/o8_Bq3xt8gY Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyGTurbo Posted April 27, 2013 Share Posted April 27, 2013 Dude, i've been trying to think of the answer for you but I can't remember. Is there a bracket you have to remove first, something else in the way? It's the bolt to the right (looking into the engine from the front) of the banjo bolt that is facing up. It's so cramp in there i dont' know which wires to move to get to it. And i don't even know what size the bolt is. Look at the arrow here and it's below the arrow. http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q174/truthyaj/Subaru%20Legacy%20Issues/VF40screw_zpsf712ffff.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HAMMER DOWN Posted April 27, 2013 Share Posted April 27, 2013 The bolt is the same size as all the other UP & DP bolts (14mm). For removal of that bolt. Use a 3/8" drive-14mm swivel socket & 10" extension to break if free. Then I use a 1/4" drive-14mm swivel socket & 10" extension to remove the bolt. It very tight spot, 1/4" works a lot better for removal. Mike Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HAMMER DOWN Posted April 27, 2013 Share Posted April 27, 2013 This is the inside of my turbo housing (hotside) and the turbine wheel. Can I swap this to the new turbo and use it, or is this to much? http://youtu.be/o8_Bq3xt8gY PM return, What did you decide to do, replace hot side or return. Mike Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyGTurbo Posted April 28, 2013 Share Posted April 28, 2013 The bolt is the same size as all the other UP & DP bolts (14mm). For removal of that bolt. Use a 3/8" drive-14mm swivel socket & 10" extension to break if free. Then I use a 1/4" drive-14mm swivel socket & 10" extension to remove the bolt. It very tight spot, 1/4" works a lot better for removal. Mike OMG, thank you so much!! I couldn't have done it without your help. I was able to get it out without a problem. I was able to break loose of the bolt and remove it all in one. Again, thank you much!! So as i was reading through this thread, i didn't see anyone posting Torque Specs when putting the turbo back together. With that said, does anyone know what the torque specs are when putting back the turbo? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HAMMER DOWN Posted April 28, 2013 Share Posted April 28, 2013 (edited) IIRC 26ft.lbs. for all the 14mm bolts & nuts, but I set mine at 30ft.lbs. where I have to use an swivel socket & extension. Mike Edited April 28, 2013 by HAMMER DOWN Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyGTurbo Posted April 28, 2013 Share Posted April 28, 2013 IIRC 26ft.lbs. for all the 14mm bolts & nuts, but I set mine at 30ft.lbs. where I have to use an swivel socket & extension. Mike Thanks again Mike. I will keep that in mind when putting it all back together. I'm somewhat mechanically incline but i haven't done enough of it to get it all but this is my first time replacing a turbo with the guidance of this thread. Thanks for making it available. I will continue to use this thread for references. Now I do have a question regarding my turbo and engine. I'm assuming that replacing the turbo and the banjo bolt will get me back and running again. But my question is, ... is my engine still good? The aftermath of my situation is a blown turbo. But i'm uncertain if my engine is still good or not. What i found was that the coolant and the engine oil some how got leaked into the turbo and the intercooler. I also notice that the oil in my engine was gone even though i just changed it. So some how some way the oil is leaked to the turbo system. I just wanted to make sure that a head gasket problem isn't an issue also. So prior to installing the new turbo, what step should i take to check the engine before installing the new turbo? Any ideas and thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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