Jack Read Posted May 7, 2011 Share Posted May 7, 2011 ...to wcbjr, whoever you are. This thread saved me a lot of trouble... Last Thursday I was driving home from Logan Airport at 2:00 in the morning, coming home from a business trip. Check engine light, flashing cruise... Hmmm, I wonder- then suddenly, "whump whump whump RATTLE RATTLE". Damn! My turbo blew. I'll post a pic of the exhaust impeller later. It is mangled. Anyway, I ordered a new turbo and an install kit from Fred Bean. Two days later it arrived. Thanks to the AWESOME illustrated instructions in this thread I was able to remove the dead turbo and have the new one installed in about 4 hours, flying solo. Thank you! PS- I did do one thing differently, and I'll mention it here in case it helps anyone. Instead of the "tie up the inlet hose with cable ties" trick I disconnected it at the far end- removed one screw and unplugged three vaccuum hoses and the intake "elbow". That allowed me to pull the intake tube back far enough to drop the turbo straight down and then slide the intake tube on without much trouble at all. I hope the new turbo lives a long life. I replaced the banjo filter. I was torn about removing it, but in the end I did not. Jack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Read Posted May 7, 2011 Share Posted May 7, 2011 Exhaust impeller. Eek. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wcbjr Posted May 9, 2011 Author Share Posted May 9, 2011 You're welcome. Those blades are nasty!! Do you still have an uppipe cat? It might be breaking up and do it to your new turbo. I forgot what I was supposed to remember. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Read Posted May 10, 2011 Share Posted May 10, 2011 That was the exhaust side impeller. It took me a while to pick all the bits out of my DP cat. The compressor blades looked practically brand new, so I don't *think* there's an UP problem...? I'd like to replace the UP anyway but haven't gotten to it yet. Should I be more worried than I am? BTW, cause of turbo failure: sludge in the banjo screen. I've used synthetic since I bought the car; I don't know what the previous owner used. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wcbjr Posted May 10, 2011 Author Share Posted May 10, 2011 The uppipe is in the exhaust. I forgot what I was supposed to remember. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goneskiian Posted May 11, 2011 Share Posted May 11, 2011 BTW, cause of turbo failure: sludge in the banjo screen. I've used synthetic since I bought the car; I don't know what the previous owner used. What were your oil change intervals? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Read Posted May 11, 2011 Share Posted May 11, 2011 The uppipe is in the exhaust. LOL! Doh! Of course it is... Brain fart! Anyway, I don't think that's the issue, although I do want to replace the UP at some point. The reason I don't think it's the issue is due to the sequence of events... The CEL was code P0011, which I *now* know means oil starvation to the AVCS solenoid and thus the turbo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Read Posted May 11, 2011 Share Posted May 11, 2011 What were your oil change intervals? Usually 3k-4k, all Mobil 1. I did go one time, I hate to admit, to almost 6k. At the time I thought that was fine because of the owner's manual stated 7500mi OCI. Then I started reading these forums and learned about Subaru's edict to go only 3750mi between oil changes on all turbo engines. Also, I was using 5w-30 Mobil 1. I know opinions are like bellybuttons (or other singular body parts)- everybody has one, but popular opinion suggests a heavier oil is better for these cars, so I might change. Once the new turbo has about 1k on it I'm going to do a pre-emptive oil change and check (maybe remove) the banjo filter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Read Posted May 11, 2011 Share Posted May 11, 2011 BTW, this might be clear from the photos, but in case it isn't- the exhaust impeller is completely snapped off from the shaft. Surprisingly, the compressor impeller still spins with very little shaft play. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danisleet Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 Want to thank you for all the great photos and advise on the uninstall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c-lo Posted May 23, 2012 Share Posted May 23, 2012 I don't want to remove my turbo, I just want to inspect for shaft play. If I follow posts 24-31 that should be sufficient correct? 258k miles - Stock engine/minor suspension upgrades/original shocks/rear struts replaced at 222k/4 passenger side wheel bearings/3 clutches/1 radiator/3 turbos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted May 23, 2012 Share Posted May 23, 2012 yes, except unbolt the downpipe from the midpipe connection, not the shorty section, it's easier. and you'll need to unplug the rear o2 sensor, but that is plugged in right above the pipe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c-lo Posted May 23, 2012 Share Posted May 23, 2012 thx! 258k miles - Stock engine/minor suspension upgrades/original shocks/rear struts replaced at 222k/4 passenger side wheel bearings/3 clutches/1 radiator/3 turbos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hadvw Posted November 10, 2012 Share Posted November 10, 2012 Note: Messing with the O2 sensor in the next two posts do not have anything to do with removing a turbo. But I am going a bit further and removing the uppipe as well. Bonus! Remove the fastener here, slide the cover down and you'll be staring at an oxygen sensor. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v334/wcbjr/DSC00435_2.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v334/wcbjr/DSC00437.jpg Thanks!! Totally made my job easier today!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambose5 Posted November 27, 2012 Share Posted November 27, 2012 Is this the exact same for an '05 OBXT? I'm pretty sure its a 2.5L but not sure how to find out. I'm also trying to find out what the stock turbo on my OBXT is - I thought I found that its a TD04L-13T from an article, but then I went ebay shopping and the TD04L-13T came up as for the 2.0L in the fitment list (from some chinese vendor). Thanks OP for this thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hadvw Posted November 27, 2012 Share Posted November 27, 2012 Is this the exact same for an '05 OBXT? I'm pretty sure its a 2.5L but not sure how to find out. I'm also trying to find out what the stock turbo on my OBXT is - I thought I found that its a TD04L-13T from an article, but then I went ebay shopping and the TD04L-13T came up as for the 2.0L in the fitment list (from some chinese vendor). Thanks OP for this thread. Subaru does not have the same engines in all markets, even for the same (similar) models. The USDM (U.S. Domestic Market) 2005 legacy gt was a 2.5L with a vf40 turbo. As far as I know, the only real difference (other than cosmetic) between the LGT and OBXT is the OBXT has a higher suspension, different size wheels/tires and smaller front brakes. The JDM (Japanese Domestic Market) 2005 legacy GT came with a 2.0L engine with a different turbo (quite possibly the TD04L-13T you mentioned). Does that help? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambose5 Posted November 28, 2012 Share Posted November 28, 2012 Subaru does not have the same engines in all markets, even for the same (similar) models. The USDM (U.S. Domestic Market) 2005 legacy gt was a 2.5L with a vf40 turbo. As far as I know, the only real difference (other than cosmetic) between the LGT and OBXT is the OBXT has a higher suspension, different size wheels/tires and smaller front brakes. The JDM (Japanese Domestic Market) 2005 legacy GT came with a 2.0L engine with a different turbo (quite possibly the TD04L-13T you mentioned). Does that help? Yes, it does somewhat - thanks. I know a guy with an '05 LGT and yea those are the same differences he said between the two. The only thing he didn't mention, and I don't know is the turbo. I came up with the IHI VF40 as well as the Mitsu 13T. I'm in need of a replacement turbo that won't go too far off OEM performance, and I'd like to not spend $800+ on it. Used, as long as in good condition. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hadvw Posted November 28, 2012 Share Posted November 28, 2012 Yes, it does somewhat - thanks. I know a guy with an '05 LGT and yea those are the same differences he said between the two. The only thing he didn't mention, and I don't know is the turbo. I came up with the IHI VF40 as well as the Mitsu 13T. I'm in need of a replacement turbo that won't go too far off OEM performance, and I'd like to not spend $800+ on it. Used, as long as in good condition. If you have a USDM OBXT, you definitely have a vf40. Unless it's 2007+, in which case it might be a vf46, which is more or less the same thing, just a few small internal changes, AFAIK. Here's the thing: a LOT of vf40s have been dying around 60-70k miles. A couple of years ago, there were so many people reporting about this, that I went ahead and changed my turbo to a bnr16g pre-emptively, to avoid the downtime associated with an un-planned turbo swap. As well, the possible engine damage, etc. So far, so good, 30k miles later. You can find a used vf40 for $200-300 sometimes. And sometimes they are in great shape. However, it's really a hit-or-miss situation, IMHO. With any non-vf40 turbo, you'll need a tune. And it's rare to find a non-vf40 used turbo for less than $500. $800 is about the going price for a new non-vf40 turbo from BNR. In any case, regardless of which turbo you go with, you need this: http://www.infamousperformance.net/servlet/the-995/IP%26T-Filtered-Turbo-Oil/Detail That'll help keep a vf40 alive, should you choose to stay with one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambose5 Posted November 28, 2012 Share Posted November 28, 2012 Yup, it's a USDM 2005 OBXT w/114,000Kms. Yea when I started researching the '05 OBXT (and '05 LGT due to similarities) I came across a lot that worried me about the turbos going and then engines going etc. I was directed toward BNR16G by someone, either here or on subaru OB forums, I just wanted something less expensive; maybe that's not possible/not a good idea. However I don't have a lot of money right now to do a turbo and everything associated, which sucks cause it might and probably will bite me in the ass. Like I can't pay to have someone drop, check, and re-install the oil pan. I also came across infamous tuning guys in some thread, and other sites talking about the banjo bolt screen and it's cleaning or removal or improving lines/filters, which is what came to mind when I read about this glaring problem. I don't know if I even have the cash for all this at once though which really sucks! A BNR turbo, that oil kit (or maybe even the 'complete' one for $50 more), new up-pipe and downpipe, and TM-intercooler. That's a lot to handle at once. If I have to choose to do some before the other, what would you suggest - if you don't mind. Turbo and infamous oil line kit? (along with new oil and oil filter obviously) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeltaNu1142 Posted December 24, 2012 Share Posted December 24, 2012 I'm bumping this & subscribing, because I'm looking at a VF52 install shortly. I was looking for info on priming the new (to me) turbo, and found that pulling the ignition fuse & cranking for several 10-second intervals is the generally-accepted method (please correct me if I'm wrong). The ignition fuse is #11...? Tits mcgee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripemeat Posted December 24, 2012 Share Posted December 24, 2012 you have a fuel pump fuse in the engine fusebox, pull it and let the car die, swap the terbs, crank for a 5 seconds, you're done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OhItsThatSteve Posted January 6, 2013 Share Posted January 6, 2013 This Post is SOLID GOLD!!! Thank you so much! I'm just about to swap out my stock blown ass turbo and replace it with a new turbochargerspros turbo install kit. The walk through has given me the confidence to replace it myself. I'll let you know how it goes! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambose5 Posted April 15, 2013 Share Posted April 15, 2013 (edited) So the OP's downpipe was aftermarket? Cause mine has a heatshield on it and it covers the nut(s) so that I cannot undo the downpipe from the up pipe. What do I do? Edit: I disconnected it further down the exhaust line Edited April 27, 2013 by Lambose5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambose5 Posted April 16, 2013 Share Posted April 16, 2013 (edited) Hey guys, I took my turbo out yesterday. I had to disconnect the down pipe where it meets the mid pipe at the middle of the car (not right below the turbo) where that donut gasket connects the two pieces of 'exhaust'. In doing so I broke of both those bolts that go through large springs to join the connection, and that gasket is junk now. I have ordered the replacement bolts/springs/donut gasket. Here's the thing; the nuts are still fused to the back end of that exhaust pipe and I don't know if they'll come off, hah. They're soaking in PB now and after I blasted them with a blow torch and struck them a few times too. If the wont "turn" off (unscrew) - which I tried briefly by putting a 12mm wrench on and smacking with a hammer - should I cut'em off with a grinder? I ain't buying a new exhaust Thanks for any suggestions. Peace. *Why did I just upload pics to an album and now I can't post them here*? Edited April 16, 2013 by Lambose5 Pics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 16, 2013 Share Posted April 16, 2013 Go to any hardware store, get some bolts nuts and washers that will work. 3/8 X 1.5" long. I have used them for years. You don't need stock stuff there. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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