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+++++1 = Subaru coolant is specifically engineered for our aluminum blocks, heads and coolant systems. Anything else and you seriously risk compromising the cooling system by initiating corrosion in your system. Check out this Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) link. http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5316. Note the non-amine type equivalent.

 

SBT

 

http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15944&highlight=subaru+genuine+coolant

enough zip ties and duct tape will fix anything.
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Does it look like this:

 

http://www.prestone.com/enlarged/images/prestoneAntiCool3.jpg

 

From their website:

 

"New Prestone® Extended Life Antifreeze/Coolant is compatible with ANY antifreeze/ coolant – regardless of color – for use in ALL makes and models of cars and light duty trucks. This patented formula provides a high degree of performance durability and carefully balanced protection against temperature extremes and rust corrosion of all cooling system metals, including aluminum. "

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I bought the Subaru coolant "just to be save"...mixed it 50-50 as indicated on the instructions, been adding to the "full" line once every few months, especially in the summer time, and I still got a lot left...expensive about $20 or so, but since it will last for more than a few years, it's worth it if it's OEM.
In Taiwan now...:spin:
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Subaru specifies a non-silicate, non-phosphate and non-amine antifreeze. They also refuse to tell anyone which brands meet their specifications.

 

By law, Subaru cannot mandate Subaru coolant unless they provided it for free.

 

I spoke with a chemical engineer at the company that manufactrurers Peak Coolant last week for 40 minutes. Here's what I found out:

 

Peak Global is 100% phosphate and silicate free.

 

Virtually ALL coolants manufactured for the past few DECADES are non-amine. Therefore, nobody lists non-amine on their coolant bottles.

 

The ingredients in Subaru and Peak Global are identical except for minor differences in the anti-corrosion package.

 

The company that makes the anti-corrosion package for Subaru coolant also supplies Peak. That company has told Peak Subaru's anti-corrosion package is 100% compatible with Peak's. they are virtually interchangable.

In a brilliant marketing move, Subaru has managed to skirt the Magnusson Moss Act but telling us to only use a "non-amine" coolant. Since nobody's made a non-amine coolant for years, we're running around looking for coolant that doesn't have something that isn't around anymore.

 

It's like your doctor telling you it's OK to drink cola, but make sure the label says cocaine-free. How long has it been since Coca-Cola's ingredients included cocaine?

 

By the way, the guys at Peak are very familiar with Subaru, Subaru coolant and Subaru coolant additive.

 

As far as I'm concerned, Peak Global Coolant is the equivalent of Subaru coolant.

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Does it look like this:

 

http://www.prestone.com/enlarged/images/prestoneAntiCool3.jpg

 

From their website:

 

"New Prestone® Extended Life Antifreeze/Coolant is compatible with ANY antifreeze/ coolant – regardless of color – for use in ALL makes and models of cars and light duty trucks. This patented formula provides a high degree of performance durability and carefully balanced protection against temperature extremes and rust corrosion of all cooling system metals, including aluminum. "

That what I switch to at my 30k service.

Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold

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Why won't say Prestone low-sillicate do, for example?

 

 

Because Subaru specifies NON-SILICATE, NON-PHOSPATE. That means zero, nada, nothing. Not low, ZERO. That's why I returned my gallon of Prestone and bought Peak Global.

 

See my post above.

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Because Subaru specifies NON-SILICATE, NON-PHOSPATE. That means zero, nada, nothing. Not low, ZERO. That's why I returned my gallon of Prestone and bought Peak Global.

 

See my post above.

 

 

Thanks... So a jug of "Peak Global" is all I need? I'm not familiar with this brand...

 

which one?

http://www.peakantifreeze.com/referencechart.html

 

Side question...this seems crazy...Is this just a subaru issue or do other mfrs pull the same thing with coolant?

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I emailed Peak and they said Peak Global is the one we should use.

 

"PEAK GLOBAL LIFETIME ANTIFREEZE & COOLANT is a new

coolant technology that can be used in all automobiles worldwide,

regardless of make, model, year or current antifreeze color."

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I emailed Peak and they said Peak Global is the one we should use.

 

"PEAK GLOBAL LIFETIME ANTIFREEZE & COOLANT is a new

coolant technology that can be used in all automobiles worldwide,

regardless of make, model, year or current antifreeze color."

 

All coolant manufactures claim they have a compatable coolant. Prestone makes the same claims, even though their coolant is low silcate. Based on what I found out by actually picking up the phone:

 

Peak Global Lifetime (or the premixed version) has the exact same basic ingredients as Subaru coolant.

 

Peak Global is 100% phosphate and 100% silicate free (Subaru requirements).

 

Additional ingredients present in the anti-corrosion package are supplied to Peak by the same manufacturer that supplies Subaru.

 

That supplier has told Peak that both anti-corrosion packages are very similar and for all intents, interchangeable.

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Thanks... So a jug of "Peak Global" is all I need? I'm not familiar with this brand...

 

which one?

http://www.peakantifreeze.com/referencechart.html

 

Side question...this seems crazy...Is this just a subaru issue or do other mfrs pull the same thing with coolant?

 

I'm pretty sure there's only one Peak Global (alright, I left off the Lifetime). You can get it full strength or 50/50 pre-mix.

 

All manufacturers imply that you must use their coolants. I find it offensive in the extreme that Subaru won't publish the exact specs while at the same time having us chase down a "non-amine" coolant. They know virtually all coolants have been non-amine for years and nobody puts that on the label anymore.

 

"Gee, I can't find any coolant with "non-amine" on the label. Guess I'll have to by Subaru's!"

 

By the way, the coolant manufacturers I've spoken with say that Subaru's coolant additive is basically plain old stop leak. Guess that's the cheapest way for Subaru to "push back" cooling system warranty repairs past the warranty date, isn't it? Heck, the customer even pays extra for the additive!

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I used to use the orange stuff on my J30's VG30DE

 

What orange stuff?

 

You are aware that color doesn't have any significance when it come to antifreeze these days, aren't you?

 

For example, the color of Peak Global was chosen because it won't change the color of existing antifreeze when topping off. They did this to stop customers from freaking out and calling up saying, "I added Peak Global and it changed the color of my antifreeze, what's wrong?"

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I'm pretty sure there's only one Peak Global (alright, I left off the Lifetime). You can get it full strength or 50/50 pre-mix.

 

I was responding to silver_05's hyperlink. In the hyperlink that he asked about, under Asian MFG, it lists either Peak Global Lifetime or Peak Longlife. Two different products. It says "Varies by OEM."

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What orange stuff?

 

You are aware that color doesn't have any significance when it come to antifreeze these days, aren't you?

 

For example, the color of Peak Global was chosen because it won't change the color of existing antifreeze when topping off. They did this to stop customers from freaking out and calling up saying, "I added Peak Global and it changed the color of my antifreeze, what's wrong?"

 

Havoline orange. Nissan used to reccomend their own special AF as well. The problem use that their stuff (green) was crap designed only to get the car through warranty. It's been a while since I emmersed myself in AF DD.

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I went the safe route and bought the Subie OE and the additive.

 

I have seen some GM cars where the wrong type was mixed. What a mess that causes. There is this white/grey milky subatance everywhere and I swear you need some type of acid to get rid of it.

 

Short story: That said Chevrolet mentioned above, I had to replace the radiator and ALL of the hoses to get the cooling system operational again.

Be carefull what you put in there.!!!!

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I've been using Final Charge Global. It is made by Old World Industries which also owns the Peak brand name. Final Charge Global is another 100% phosphate and silicate free coolant. It is very likely the exact same formula as Peak Global. I just used it because I found it more easily than Peak Global. Wallyworld and Pep Boys both carry Final Charge Global.

 

With regard to the Subaru coolant additive, it looks to me to be nothing more than small expensive bottle of Bar's Leaks. I think Subaru started specing its use when some of the early 2.5L motors had weepy head gaskets.

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Does anyone know of any issues with using watter wetter, or competing products?

 

I doubt there would be, but I am just wondering if WaterWetter has any phosphates or silicates in it, that would go against subaru specs.

 

I've used WaterWetter in my other vehicles, to some success. Not a night-day difference, but slightly cooler and more consistent temperatures, due to less hotspot-boiling in the system, at least that is what the marketing claims.

 

I'd like to put a bottle in the Legacy, but I would really NOT like to regret it later. :D

 

And thanks for the heads up on Peak and Final Charge Global coolants... Local wally-world has Peak Global, which is much easier than trying to get to the Subie dealer when the parts counter is open. (read: hardly ever beyond my work hours, and 50 miles away.)

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Maybe a bit OT, but how does the LGT's cooling system work? The reason I ask is because of how the fill tank is. It's basically an expansion tank that's open to atmosphere because all it has is a plastic snap-on cap. I suppose my question is: How does the system pressurize without a sealed expansion/fill tank?

 

I've grown accustomed to my last two VWs that had the round expansion tanks... but they were also pressurized. If you tried to remove the screw cap to the expansion tank while the coolant was still hot, then you could get a nice face full of hot coolant spray when you removed it.

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The overflow tank works on a constant siphon. There is also a high-mounted reserviour, near the intake manifold, at the highest point of the sealed system. that is where to fill and bleed the system, not at the radiator, which is lower in the system.

 

The overflow tank siphon goes from the top of the radiator, or the top reservior, down to the bottom of the bottle. As long as there is liquid in the tank and siphon tubes, there is a seal for the system. bubbles can be forced out of the sealed system into the expansion tank, but can't go the other direction, into the system. Liquid coolant replaces the volume of the expelled air/gas. That is usually what happens that causes the expansion bottle's fluid level to get lower.

 

Also, as the system gets hot, and the liquid coolant expands, it pushes a little excess coolant into the expansion bottle, raising the observable level. (why there is a cold and hot indicator on the bottle.) The expansion bottle can't be sealed, because air needs to be pushed out, or drawn in as that fluid level fluctuates. The siphon fluid level in the bottle keeps that air from getting into the sealed cooling system.

 

However, if your expansion bottle ever runs completely dry, it will allow air into the system, and could allow the coolant in the sealed part of the system to expand enough under lack of pressure, to boil and overheat.

 

If your coolant bottle is empty, don't drive enough to heat up your engine until you have a chance to re-fill, bleed, and re-seal the cooling system. If the coolant listed above aren't available, and the system isn't completely dry, you can temporarily use distilled water. (that will dilute the coolant, and make it more vulnerable to sub-freezing temperatures, and you'd have to go back and re-add the anti-freeze components.)

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Hey, thanks for the detailed info! Although, I figured the fill point was at the "clear" plastic tank in front of the car -- you know, the one with the hot/cold fill lines. It even has a long, flexible plastic dipstick.

 

If that's not the correct fill spot, then I guess I gotta learn a bit more. Where exactly is the other (correct) fill point? I'll go home and stare at my engine bay for a while tonight. :)

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so the low-mounted reservior ("white bottle" by the radiator) is for READING PURPOSES only, and the high-mounted reservior (silver metal/aluminum container by the intake manifold) is for ADDING PURPOSES?...but if the engine keeps drawing from the lower-mounted reservior, then wouldn't the high-mounted reservior always be full until the white bottle's coolant is gone, but then it'll be too late because "However, if your expansion bottle ever runs completely dry, it will allow air into the system, and could allow the coolant in the sealed part of the system to expand enough under lack of pressure, to boil and overheat"...

 

Could you explain a little more cuz this noob's GT consumes about a cup of 50/50 coolant every month or so (5EAT with lots of traffic driving), thanks!

In Taiwan now...:spin:
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