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Daniel Stern Lighting and Subaru headlight options


f1anatic

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Scarey message however, "same 500 hour life as the H7 bulb...".......

 

Lifted from another forum:

 

Dan Stern put out the info below not long ago; don't remember where, but I grabbed it:

 

"For reference, here's manufacturer data*for output and lifespan at 13.2v for standard-wattage H1 bulbs.*The numbers here are a composite of values applicable to the products of*the big three makers (Osram-Sylvania, Philips-Narva, Tungsram-GE). Each*manufacturer's product in each category is slightly different but not*significantly so. *I picked H1-type bulbs for this comparison, and while*the absolute numbers differ with different bulb types, the relative*comparison patterns hold good for whatever bulb type we consider (H4, 9006, whatever).*Lifespan is given as Tc, the hour figure at which 63.2 percent of the*bulbs have failed.

 

H1 (regular normal):

 

1550 lumens, 650 hours

 

Long Life (or "HalogenPlus+")

 

1460 lumens, 1200 hours

 

Ultra Long Life (or "DayLight")

 

1430 lumens, 3000 hours

 

Plus-30 High Efficacy (CPI BrightLight, Osram Super, Sylvania Xtravision, Narva Rangepower,*Tungsram High Output, Philips Premium):

 

1700 lumens, 350 hours

 

Plus-50 Ultra High Efficacy (CPI Super Bright Light, Philips VisionPlus, Osram Silverstar, Narva*Rangepower+50, Tungsram Megalicht, but not Sylvania Silverstar):*

 

1750 lumens, 350 hours

 

Plus-80/90 Mega High Efficacy (Philips Xtreme Power, Osram Night Breaker):

 

1780 lumens, 340 hours

 

Blue coated 'extra white' (CPI Bright Light Blue, Osram CoolBlue, Narva Rangepower Blue, Philips*BlueVision or CrystalVision, Tungsram Super Blue or EuroBlue, Sylvania*Silverstar or Silverstar Ultra,*also PIAA, Hoen, Nokya, Polarg, etc):

 

1380 lumens, 250 hours

 

So that's the pattern for how lifespan and light output are related. It's worth noting that the lumen differences are not the extent of the performance differences. The filament changes required to make a long-life bulb tend to reduce the beam focus, which shortens seeing distance. And, the light color is less white and more brown. But lifespan is lengthened. The opposite filament changes are made to create the "Plus" (+30, +50, +80, +90) or Osram "Hyper" type bulbs: Lifespan is reduced, but the beam focus is better so seeing distance is longer. Light color is whiter and less brown. The takeaway message here is that even if all the filaments put out exactly the same amount of light — the same lumens from a long life, a +30, a +50, a regular, an ultralong-life, etc. — the headlamp performance and appearance with the long-life bulb would still be inferior compared to the same headlamp performance and appearance with a regular, or +30, or +50, or +80, or Hyper bulb.

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In the last month I had 2 orders with Candle Power. Very good, courteous, efficient, I got the order in 3-4 days.

 

1) Narva 65W for my Forester

2) Narva 55W for my Legacy GT

3) Osram Rally 65W backup for my Legacy (got them for 20 bucks each - so now they're out of stock ? ha ha )

 

I have had the Osram Rallys on my Legacy for 2 years now and while the light seems to have become a little more yellow, their output is just as great. But oh boy, the Narva that I put on the Forester have a sick white light which kind of makes me jealous and tempts me to install the new Osrams.

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OK. Here's my "dilemna". After going through 2 - 3 pairs of bulbs a year (and getting to pit stop speed for changing the bulbs), I bought a set of generics the last time I was at the autoparts store. I am going on 8 months now - a record.

 

So, I'm looking to buy the Rallye's as the backup pair that I will eventually need.

 

Or, stay with the crap generics - which are hard to find since Autozone is buying every parts supply store locally and, they only stock Sylvania.

 

But, for $40, I don't think the Rallye's are more expensive that the generics.

 

thanks,

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^^Like f1anatic, I have had 65w Rallye's on my LGT for over 2 years as well. I know as soon as I type this it's over, but I've never had a headlight bulb out in the LGT. 61K and going.

Many Shuvs and Zuuls knew what it was to be roasted in the depths of the Slor that day, I can tell you!

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I'm almost in the same boat as you. just ordered some 55w yellow stars for my fogs and I'm running the sylvannias for my low beams. My issue is I'm not happy with the light output.

 

for the price I'm looking to add some 55w driving lights. mainly for back road usage.

258k miles - Stock engine/minor suspension upgrades/original shocks/rear struts replaced at 222k/4 passenger side wheel bearings/3 clutches/1 radiator/3 turbos
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Well Paul the design is different. Now my Osram Rallys (2 y old) are a tad yellower than the Narva bulbs. You cannot get Narva bulbs in H7 for our cars...but damn they light up and they are white. The devil might get a shade of white if he crosses my headlights. They are that white. Edited by f1anatic
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just received the bulbs, they were much smaller than i anticipated . posted some pictures:

 

http://img128.imageshack.us/img128/4734/p1010949lj5.jpg

http://img128.imageshack.us/img128/p1010949lj5.jpg/1/w1600.png

(box is 6cm)

 

http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/2474/p1010950wz6.jpg

http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/p1010950wz6.jpg/1/w1600.png

 

these are the correct bulbs? i thought they might come in more packaging as well, they were just naked in the cardboard box. 2100 lumens from these little things....pretty impressive

Edited by katalyst
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just received the bulbs, they were much smaller than i anticipated . posted some pictures:

 

(box is 6cm)

 

 

these are the correct bulbs? i thought they might come in more packaging as well, they were just naked in the cardboard box. 2100 lumens from these little things....pretty impressive

 

Those are the correct bulbs. I have been running them for over a year and a half and they still work great.

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I do however still want to be able to shut off the low beams altogether and turn on the fogs when it is foggy and snowy. The fog light mod requires that DRLs be disabled. :(
I'm willing to bet that's illegal in most states. Something about "primary lighting" - which "fogs only" would then be - at some sort of a "minimum height" above the road surface ... which I'll bet they wouldn't be.

 

(It's in the same package of rules that say a car can't have but 4 "lights" on at once, too. Lows and fogs, highs and driving lights - NOT lows, highs AND fogs / driving, for example.)

 

Factory fogs are switched via rather simple relay connected to the low beam circuit. You can easily re-wire the fogs yourself to do what you want but be warned: Check twice with your state DOT before doing anything you can't reverse ...

 

Rgds,

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Can you install a DRL cutout, and then wire a secondary fog relay into the parking light switch on the sterring column?

 

That might be what you are wanting.

 

EDIT:

Instead, wire the parking light switch to cutout the DRL and turn on the fogs at the same time. Prolly wouldn't be too difficult a job.

Edited by SubiGT
Better idea

Many Shuvs and Zuuls knew what it was to be roasted in the depths of the Slor that day, I can tell you!

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Obviously it would be only when conditions warrant using just the fog lights. All corner markers would still be on.

 

Besides, fog lights CAN be used as DRLs here, but I don't want to make them the DRLs, just have them shut off the DRLs when required.

 

I suppose I could install a DRL cutout switch and install aftermarket fog lights...

 

If you ground the DRLs through the Fog Lights when you turn on the Fog Lights the DRLs would lose ground and turn off. I did this on my motorcycle with my side marker lights and turn signals. Unfortunately modern car wiring with CAN data buss can make this much more difficult to do.

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I can imagine there are some times when it would be desirable to run fogs only. In a bad snowstorm here, many folks were blinded by their own low beams and found it easier to see with the headlights off, even without fogs. Gotta limit your speed, though. I set up fogs on my other car to run by themselves. My Pa inspection mechanic simply disconnected them at inspection time, since they are only supposed to run with the lows.
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I can imagine there are some times when it would be desirable to run fogs only. In a bad snowstorm here, many folks were blinded by their own low beams and found it easier to see with the headlights off, even without fogs.
I agree with all points except driving with NO lights at all - under ANY conditions! Yes, the driver *may* be able to see "better" (i.e. less reflected light from his / her own low beam headlights) ... but this is a potentially DEADLY situation for on-coming traffic: THEY can't see YOU! Please don't do that ... for EVERYONE'S safety!!!

 

The extreme top edge cut-off on fog lights, of course, is EXACTLY why they were designed and why the low mounting works so well. And ... NO QUESTION - there are many, MANY times when 'fogs only' simply work better. I've experienced those types of weather situations many, MANY dozens of times in my life - maybe into the hundreds.

 

But .... most laws are made by politicians, not smart people. =:)

 

But as far as saying 'fogs only' work better, try telling "John Law" that when you cruise by him in the opposite direction in CLEAR violation of many state headlight laws. Result: Instant "blue light special" - - - and you're not even shopping at M-Mart!!!

 

I think this is part of my running battle with some yitz on the headlight bulb forum over ME installing after-market HID bulbs in regular housings. He keeps screaming to me about how wrong this is - in theory - and I disagree because I drive in a practical world.

 

Yes, my new lights are UNGODLY bright - they're 55W "recommended for off-road use only" HID's and they light up road signs from a half mile away!!! I can see Neptune from the driver's seat!!! But they're aimed as carefully as can be and they pass all state vehicle inspection laws. No one has "flashed" me for these "nuclear bright" bulbs; and the police have never stopped me - not even once. So, YEAH, I'm - in "theory" - breaking a law. But in the practical world, certainly doing no harm to anyone and THAT'S why I've never had a single problem.

 

Here's the deal as to why you MIGHT get stopped for running "fogs only" - or not - or for having some SURREAL headlight bulbs. Well, one is that with so many cars - around where *I* live, for sure - running super-bright HID's right from the factory, no one even bothers to notice *me*. 2, with the obnoxious SUV and pickup truck headlight mountings, EVERYONE gets blinded by them - whether oncoming or driving ahead of one - so, again, no one even bothers to give *me* a second glance. As far as making oncoming drivers "blind", I'm not. I'm "Joe Nobody" ...

 

It reminds me of police enforcing littering laws, for example: The city, county and State police seem to have a funny way of deciding for themselves what laws they place a higher emphasis upon enforcing - depending upon a variety of factors.

 

As for crusing along with 'fogs only' in bad weather and the law isn't on your side, if you're Grandpa Jones in a older Sedan de Ville, heading home to watch Vanna White spin the wheel ... I'll bet you could pull it off. If you're spike-haired Jose Martinez driving a lowered Civic "tuner" with some fluorescent flame paint a raspy, "coffee-can" muffler - and it's after bar closing time - I'd say your odds just went ballistic.

 

Words to the wise - and trust an old man on this: When it comes to dealing with ANY part of society - the police, especially - just stay "below the radar".

 

Rgds,

Edited by SubieDoobieDoo
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Any of you with Osram Rallys having them 2 years+

Did you notice the light turning yellower ? not that the light output is bad, but compared to my brand new 65W Narvas in the Forester, my 2 y old Osram light output is yellow

 

By the way, the Narvas do not have that grey painted dome just clear glass

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