Daniel Stern Lighting and Subaru headlight options

[akscooby]

Disabled DRL's a long time ago. Still have to have lights on the majority of the time here, either because of darkness or legal reasons on the highways, so the difference is probably insignificant.

 

Anyway, point being that you were sounding like Osrams were 100% legal, which they aren't. I've been using them for 2 years and really like them, but I just spent nearly $100 replacing them (with shipping to Alaska) and I just can't do that every six months or so. So I'm trying 5000k HID's. I may or may not like the result, but they should last for years.

[TSiWRX]

^ I agree, historically, this has proven to be the case.

 

It's one of those quirks - just as with the "studder/stutter."

[fishbone]

That is weird. My OSRAMs were installed on Nov 7 2007, still going strong knock on wood. They are rated for 550 hours and I know that's probably an average and definitely not set in stone. But let me ask you this. Can swear on pain of neutering that you have absolutely not touched the bulb with your finger or other part of your hand? I, for one, cleaned them out of the box with rubbing alcohol and then had latex gloves on my hand for the entire process I was setting them up.

Grease spots on bulbs will cause them to die pronto.

[LongHiway]

Supposedly, oil from a finger creates a hot spot on the bulb leading to premature failure.

[SubiGT]

That is weird. My OSRAMs were installed on Nov 7 2007, still going strong knock on wood. They are rated for 550 hours and I know that's probably an average and definitely not set in stone. But let me ask you this. Can swear on pain of neutering that you have absolutely not touched the bulb with your finger or other part of your hand? I, for one, cleaned them out of the box with rubbing alcohol and then had latex gloves on my hand for the entire process I was setting them up.

Grease spots on bulbs will cause them to die pronto.

Mine have been in since Nov/Dec 06. My DRL's have been off since before then. I leave them switched on if I put her to bed at night.

[akscooby]

Wow...maybe there's an electrical problem somewhere. I know I'm not the only one to go through bulbs like mad on the '05's, anyway. I wonder if it was a bug they later fixed so others don't get the same results with the same bulbs?

[TSiWRX]

My switch to the Osram Hypers took place, I believe, well before yours, fishbone, and as with you and others, they're still going strong.

 

Although I don't typically use my lights a lot in the summers, my daily commute during the other half of the year sees a lot of use, and I'm never shy about switching them on/off for parking decks/garages or to signal other drivers, or for foul-weather.

 

I've also, as many here, pulled the DRL a long time ago, and with that, even had very good luck with Sylvania (US) SilverStar H7s, before I switched to the Osram Hypers.

[SubieDoobieDoo]

Wow...maybe there's an electrical problem somewhere. I know I'm not the only one to go through bulbs like mad on the '05's, anyway. I wonder if it was a bug they later fixed so others don't get the same results with the same bulbs?

"Electrical probems" don't usually manifest themselves in the form of broken glass light bulbs. Or even failed elements. Not really. They ("electrical problems", grounding issues, etc.) pop fuses. That's what fuses are for. That's why it's **SO** important to NEVER, EVER replace a fuse of a rated capacity with one of a lower or higher value. NEVER, EVER!!!!!! Don't even **THINK** about doing that!!!

 

1. Skin oil(s) are *rumored* to cause a bulb to fail - although that's more of an old wive's tale than proven fact. However, if Sloppy Joe, your mechanic slathers 10W-40 all over your new halogen headlight bulbs, THEN I'd worry. In ultra-hot slide projector bulbs years ago, for example, the old tell-tale evidence that "someone" had touched the glass was always said to be a bulge or bubble in the housing. Not true. That merely indicated a flawed (thin area) of the glass housing. Filament bulbs are manufactured and sealed under VACUUM. How could one mysteriously "bulge" OUTWARD? Simple: Manufacturing defect in forming the glass balloon - NOT a whisp of skin oil.

 

2). Filament failure - prematurely (or so you feel)? Likely a production run that wasn't up-to-snuff. Could be an electrical surge but given the high resistance of filaments - after all, your headlight elements *ARE* a glowing form of a controlled, short-circuit - that it was "electrical" is also remote guess on someone's part. Filaments can be on-the-edge as far as material quality - a schoshe low or high in one alloy or another - and vary wildly in durability. Ya pays yer money and ya takes yer chances.

 

3), Broken glass housing? And going thru them as fast as General Grant went thru Richmond? Bad glass manufacturing and a form of poor glass "tempering". There is REAL brittle glass, brittle glass and not-so-brittle glass when it comes to incandescent bulb manufacturing. This is a result of the final stages of these fragile glass globes passing thru an open gas flame to "temper" them before sealing under an inert gas atmosphere and onto the filament-attached base. The gas flame might have been off a few degrees. The bulbs that failed were early - or late - in a new set-up or production run. Or someone just wasn't paying attention on the production line. Maybe some faulty instrumentation in the process line that finally got caught and fixed / replaced (AFTER your faulty bulbs had already hit the shelves). Pick one.

 

Rgds,

[MiniStiGuy]

I've got an idea...

 

 

why don't all of you that are posting donate and become members instead of being cheap and just taking information without contributing to the host that is allowing you to be able to post and get information.

[TSiWRX]

"Electrical probems" don't usually manifest themselves in the form of broken glass light bulbs. Or even failed elements. Not really. They ("electrical problems", grounding issues, etc.) pop fuses. That's what fuses are for. That's why it's **SO** important to NEVER, EVER replace a fuse of a rated capacity with one of a lower or higher value. NEVER, EVER!!!!!! Don't even **THINK** about doing that!!!

 

Fuses being tripped is but one form of electrical problem - in simply cycling the vehicle from accessory power through the iginition cycle, many systems, including the headlights on the BL/BP, if they are engaged, go through momentary phases of power spikes and troughs.

 

The fuse is only to protect against overcurrent. Nothing else.

 

[ Per your own words in point #2 below, shouldn't the fuse have popped? But as you can see, that doesn't necessarily have to be the case. ]

 

Modern Subarus are known for a rather "noisy" electrical system that, unfortunately, no-one has had a really good cure for (nor proposed a good explanation of *why* this is so), and it has affected nearly every form of aftermarket electronic accessory that can be listed - from audio/entertainment to radar detectors to knock-indicators.

 

2). Filament failure - prematurely (or so you feel)? Likely a production run that wasn't up-to-snuff. Could be an electrical surge but given the high resistance of filaments - after all, your headlight elements *ARE* a glowing form of a controlled, short-circuit - that it was "electrical" is also remote guess on someone's part. Filaments can be on-the-edge as far as material quality - a schoshe low or high in one alloy or another - and vary wildly in durability. Ya pays yer money and ya takes yer chances.

 

3), Broken glass housing? And going thru them as fast as General Grant went thru Richmond? Bad glass manufacturing and a form of poor glass "tempering". There is REAL brittle glass, brittle glass and not-so-brittle glass when it comes to incandescent bulb manufacturing. This is a result of the final stages of these fragile glass globes passing thru an open gas flame to "temper" them before sealing under an inert gas atmosphere and onto the filament-attached base. The gas flame might have been off a few degrees. The bulbs that failed were early - or late - in a new set-up or production run. Or someone just wasn't paying attention on the production line. Maybe some faulty instrumentation in the process line that finally got caught and fixed / replaced (AFTER your faulty bulbs had already hit the shelves). Pick one.

 

Exactly, there's no telling - and in many cases, such faults can very well likely be traced down to production variances or even production faults.

 

Nearly on every enthusiast Forum in "autodom" which I have participated in or are still participating in, Sylvania (US) SilverStars are nearly always cited as being of lower lifespan - no matter in which application - and also higher variability in said lifespan. It is often thought that perhaps production variances can be blamed, but still, no-one really knows.

 

But at the same time, in just viewing the "headlight burned out" thread, it is impossible not to note that this is a *very* common occurrence with the BL/BP chassis vehicles - and even moreso when isolated to the MY05s - utilizing the H7 bulb.

 

What we're seeing is that this issue simply too commonly happens to the BL/BPs to just be coincidence - or bulb manufacture variability, or dirty fingers during installation.

 

There must be something inherent to the vehicle (i.e. application of H7 to the reduced-voltage DRL feed, or perhaps a housing heat-build-up issue, or perhaps an undiagnosed - or simply undisclosed - electrical issue), particularly the MY05s, that, in-combination with the H7 application, causes such high consumption.

 

----

 

"1. Skin oil(s) are *rumored* to cause a bulb to fail - although that's more of an old wive's tale than proven fact. However, if Sloppy Joe, your mechanic slathers 10W-40 all over your new halogen headlight bulbs, THEN I'd worry. In ultra-hot slide projector bulbs years ago, for example, the old tell-tale evidence that "someone" had touched the glass was always said to be a bulge or bubble in the housing. Not true. That merely indicated a flawed (thin area) of the glass housing. Filament bulbs are manufactured and sealed under VACUUM. How could one mysteriously "bulge" OUTWARD? Simple: Manufacturing defect in forming the glass balloon - NOT a whisp of skin oil.

 

Can you provide proof that the "skin oil issue" is more rumor than fact?

 

It's always been thought of - and taught - in automotive circles, as well as other halogen-lighting circles (flashlights, projectionists, etc.) that our common skin oils and salts can deposit onto various coatings, or the quartz glass directly, that make up the "bulb," which in-turn causes that spot to "burn hotter," resulting in lamp failure (including, but not limited to, the "bubbling syndrome").

 

I know that in the projectionists area, hobbyists advocate wiping-down the bulb's exterior with a mild ethanol solution, should the glass bulb accidentally be touched during installation. In the automotive circles, simple drug-store rubbing-alcohol cleaning wipes are often advised, for the same purpose, or simply handling using a clean pair of disposable latex/rubber gloves.

 

Now, in light of the fact that I haven't done anything projection-wise, professionally, since my college days (I was on the A/V staff) and I've been out of the flashlight hobbyist circle since '05 or so, and furthermore that many things in cardom has more than a bit of rumor/BS attached to it , I'm willing to up this up for examination - that, truly, the above beliefs may be just that - "beliefs," and not fact.....

 

But even now, everywhere I search, on-line resources point to the same - that such handling issues do cause problems for halogen lighting capsules, and are far from "rumor."

Edited September 30, 2008 by TSi+WRX

[akscooby]

Just to clarify a little bit about my case, I changed the bulbs out on my own, wore surgical gloves, and was very, very careful not to even tap the bulb surface on any other surface. I don't think it was a grease or fingerprint problem. The bulbs did not break or bubble, it was purely filament issues. And it happened with multiple manufacturers all at about the same interval. Osrams lasted slightly longer and were generally much better and brighter in my opinion, but they still "burned out."

[SubiGT]

Just to clarify a little bit about my case, I changed the bulbs out on my own, wore surgical gloves, and was very, very careful not to even tap the bulb surface on any other surface. I don't think it was a grease or fingerprint problem. The bulbs did not break or bubble, it was purely filament issues. And it happened with multiple manufacturers all at about the same interval. Osrams lasted slightly longer and were generally much better and brighter in my opinion, but they still "burned out."

I wonder if your average year round temperature has an effect? Maybe the colder climate cars experience this more? Who knows?

 

When my bulbs burn out, I replace them. Or, I go spend $36K, and get the bulbs for "free":spin:

Edited September 30, 2008 by SubiGT

[akscooby]

I wonder if your average year round temperature has an effect? Maybe the colder climate cars experience this more? Who knows?

 

That could be an issue, as well. Those bulbs get hot fast, but if it starts at -20 it might be a lot more stress on the filament then the average car in a not-so-extreme climate.

[TSiWRX]

^ Now that's an interesting consideration, SubieGT and akscooby - I had honestly not thought of it from that angle, but certainly, it's a possibility.

 

If the running temperatures within the lighting housing needs to be considered as a part of this equation, then I think it's only fair that temperature differentials, particularly at start-up in such cold areas, be considered, too.

 

Yet another confounding layer....

 

Just to clarify a little bit about my case, I changed the bulbs out on my own, wore surgical gloves, and was very, very careful not to even tap the bulb surface on any other surface. I don't think it was a grease or fingerprint problem. The bulbs did not break or bubble, it was purely filament issues. And it happened with multiple manufacturers all at about the same interval. Osrams lasted slightly longer and were generally much better and brighter in my opinion, but they still "burned out."

 

^ I think that my own variable results with the Sylvania (US) SilverStars - as well as the same of others throughout "autodom" - would testify to that as well...that those bulbs typically have burn-life issues, regardless of other care.

 

Similarly, I also think that's the kind of failures that our fellow BL/BP owners are seeing, particularly in the '05s. Not due to mishandling, but rather, due to either the bulb's inherent issues (be it manufacture/make/model, as the SilverStars, or that of what's "inherent," by many expert's suggestion [such as Stern's] of the H7 setup), compounded and confounded by specific vehicle issues that, still, to this day, remain a mystery.

Edited October 1, 2008 by TSi+WRX

[f1anatic]

My switch to the Osram Hypers took place, I believe, well before yours, fishbone, and as with you and others, they're still going strong.

 

Maybe I should comment cause I created this damn thread. I switched to the Osram Hypers at the time when I created this thread: October 2006. They are still running strong. Yes I have disabled the DRLs long long long time ago in 2005 and performed a careful install as to not touch the bulb with bare hands. Beyond that I do not take any special precautions such as turning off the lights before starting the car at night etc.

 

While the first set of bulbs (Phillips OEM) was indeed a poor quality (or more likely a limited lifespan compared to the Osrams), I feel that anyone that is repeatedly burning bulbs has a short circuit of sorts or an otherwise electrical problem on the car - be that running excessive audio equipment which is overdrawing current and causing fluctuations in the current drawn by the light bulbs, defective wiring, alternator etc.

 

I'd be curious to know the R² (Pearson correlation coefficient) between the rates of headlight failure and the following:

- aftermarket audio/video/security equipment

- overly corroded OEM battery

- blown fuses

 

as well as whether the headlights burning is biased (left first or right first or both at once)

[akscooby]

Maybe I should comment cause I created this damn thread. I switched to the Osram Hypers at the time when I created this thread: October 2006. They are still running strong. Yes I have disabled the DRLs long long long time ago in 2005 and performed a careful install as to not touch the bulb with bare hands. Beyond that I do not take any special precautions such as turning off the lights before starting the car at night etc.

 

While the first set of bulbs (Phillips OEM) was indeed a poor quality (or more likely a limited lifespan compared to the Osrams), I feel that anyone that is repeatedly burning bulbs has a short circuit of sorts or an otherwise electrical problem on the car - be that running excessive audio equipment which is overdrawing current and causing fluctuations in the current drawn by the light bulbs, defective wiring, alternator etc.

 

I'd be curious to know the R² (Pearson correlation coefficient) between the rates of headlight failure and the following:

- aftermarket audio/video/security equipment

- overly corroded OEM battery

- blown fuses

 

as well as whether the headlights burning is biased (left first or right first or both at once)

 

Just a quick response, and this is just my experience with my car:

 

-I have NO aftermarket anything, other then an autostart, which was installed after several lights had already gone out

 

-While not exact, both sides burn out at a remarkably close rate to each other. Usually +/- 2 weeks.

 

-My battery is checked every 6 months (I'm a little OCD about routine maint.) and it's never had an issue.

 

-I've never blown a fuse on any system in the car.

[TSiWRX]

I'll add mine:

 

- Aftermarket small electronics only: gauges, speed-detections countermeasures. Minimal power consumption on all devices.

 

- I'll try to search up when my passenger's side SilverStar (US) went out, but I switched out both lights as a pair, so I honestly don't know about the other side.

 

- Relatively battery corrosion. Still on factory/stock battery (my LGT is a 2004 date-of-manufacture).

 

- No/never any blown fuses.

 

PS: As long as I don't have to do the statistics, I'm happy!

 

Negative F-value FTL.

[LongHiway]

Back in the day, is was common for poorly spec'd / manufactured voltage regulators to blow headlights regularly. The simple fix was to replace the voltage regulator which worked more often than not. Unfortunately in "modern" cars and in Subaru (I already checked with a dealer), the voltage regulator is part of the starter motor / assembly. Subaru quoted me $760 to replace the starter, which means I'll live with he problem until I can get around to replacing the starter myself or, just going for the 65W Rallye's from Daniel Stern.

 

What is interesting, is that for the first 2 years I always used Silverstars as replacement bulbs, the "long life" version lasted the shortest. Last winter, I figured I'd try the cheapest OEM replacements I could find & save some dough (not easy, Silverstars are almost the only replacements sold locally around here). The cheapest ones I could find have now lasted almost a year. I was going throhgh 2 - 3 pair a year using Silverstars.

 

Which, blows out of the water my voltage regulator theory.

[subarussian]

all I know is that my $100 chinese HIDs have lasted 2+ years and through out more light than any halogen.

[outahere]

...........Unfortunately in "modern" cars and in Subaru (I already checked with a dealer), the voltage regulator is part of the starter motor / assembly. Subaru quoted me $760 to replace the starter............

 

Why is the voltage regulator part of the starter, and not the alternator?

[SubieDoobieDoo]

all I know is that my $100 chinese HIDs have lasted 2+ years and through out more light than any halogen.

"subarussian", it's a capital "C" on Chinese and it's <"threw" out more light than ...> - - - but this isn't grammar class so you're home free. But your comments just made you a target for some put-downs. Beware.

 

============

 

I was zapped by a moderator for even bringing P-n-P HID's into this (apparent) halogen-only thread so maybe everyone should forget these even exist - - even though the thread simply says "Daniel Stern Lighting and Subaru headlight options." However, since Daniel Stern Lighting doesn't sell after-market P-n-P HID's, maybe that's the problem. Fine. I was wrong to step on his toes. I apologize - sincerely.

 

But "they" ARE an option ... Just how good - or bad - is up to an induvidual car owner

 

As far as "legality" of "those" lighting systems, I think some people have confused anything other than DOT-approved as being illegal. Not sure that's correct. "Not approved" and "illegal" are entirely different matters. "For off-road use only" is a pretty harsh warning, too, but there are ZILLIONS of "off-road" parts being used on road cars. If these "other" bulbs were FEDERALLY "ILLEGAL" - like heroin or cocaine - then they shouldn't even be IMPORTED or allowed inside this country's borders - on dealer's shelves or sold on the Internet to U.S. customers!

 

I won't utter another peep about them ("those" bulbs) ... Not on THIS thread anyway.

 

Rgds,

Edited October 3, 2008 by SubieDoobieDoo

[SubiGT]

If only heroin and cocaine were legal for off-road use..........

[SubieDoobieDoo]

If only heroin and cocaine were legal for off-road use..........

They're NOT?!?!?! (whoops!)

 

Seriously - back on HALOGEN BULB lighting - I *know* what it is and still use some - just not in the main headlights for the Sube - but I **DO** need to replace some HI beam halogens in the wife-mobile and was told on another brand forum that *THE* hot set-up for HI beam headlights is a pair of PIAA "Intense White" bulbs. NOT the "Xtreme White" but the "Intense White". Bulb is a 9005 ...

 

SEVERAL people have said these are the brightest, "white" color bulbs approaching the look of "those other" types of bulbs on the market. But ... ya can't just walk into any parts store and find them ...

 

PIAA's are also more expensive than most other brands so it's not just a matter of convenience to get them - it's that PLUS the added price.

 

Personally, I carry a spare set of important bulbs for the wife-mobile (9005's, 1156A's and 1157A's) tucked away in the spare tire cavity. If a headlight pops, I won't be driving "half-blind" for long. Having a spare set of PIAA's is an expensive proposition, however ....

 

GE has a fairly new line of extra-power or extra-distance halogens - they claim 30% "brighter" - called "Nighthawk" and these have instant appeal simply because you'll probably be able to find them everywhere ... and GE stands behind their products like a rock. Better than Sylvania SilverStars?

 

K-Mart and Wally-World will probably carry them - you KNOW every parts store will! - and if you have a problem with something you bought at Big K or Wally's - even a popped headlight bulb with the original receipt - they'll take 'em back or replace 'em with almost no questions.

 

Anyone know anything about these "Nighthawks"? The color will sway me one way or the other ... because I just hate the yellow or non-white look of halogens - almost ALL halogens - after driving with the ORIGINAL, FACTORY HID's on the wife-mobile (Acura TL Type S).

 

In the case of the Ack being a single-filament bulb for the HI's - halogens don't bother me like they did in the Sube - well, the off-color does ... They look "pink" at night ...

 

MY problem with the Sube was about 90-percent of my driving was on "LO" beams, therefore I was replacing a dual-filament bulb (9007) when only one filamant was bad ...

 

Not sure an aftermarket P-n-P is the right way to go with a "HI" beam-only set-up. In fact, I'm sure it isn't when one considers "flashing" the HI-beams is the most common use for me and not just tunring them on for a while. But I'd like the very, VERY best 9005 halogen bulb for the wife-mobile and those PIAA's sound pretty good.

 

The OEM halogen 9005's - brand unknown - have been in there 7 years now with no problems ...

 

Rgds,

[akscooby]

Have you tried the HIR's for a high-beam replacement? They are pretty white and really freakin' bright for a halogen. I've still got those in my Subie, although I'm going to eventually change them out to the "other" lights as well since at the moment not all of my lights match color-wise which is just goofy looking. Not sure if they make them in 9005, but that sounds right...might help the wife-mobile. They are cost-intensive, though, so the GE's might be a better option...dunno. Just another option.

[TSiWRX]

However, since Daniel Stern Lighting doesn't sell after-market P-n-P HID's, maybe that's the problem.

 

^ That's precisely what I brought up, earlier on in this thread, as well as others that discuss Stern's views towards HIDs in-general.

 

There is an undeniable conflict-of-interest.

 

Even though much of what Stern cites is true and is "by Hoyle," one needs to balance-out the equation with similar input from hobbyist sites that advocate HIDs - be they plug-and-play kits or complete-optics retrofits.

 

As far as "legality" of "those" lighting systems, I think some people have confused anything other than DOT-approved as being illegal. Not sure that's correct. "Not approved" and "illegal" are entirely different matters. "For off-road use only" is a pretty harsh warning, too, but there are ZILLIONS of "off-road" parts being used on road cars. If these "other" bulbs were FEDERALLY "ILLEGAL" - like heroin or cocaine - then they shouldn't even be IMPORTED or allowed inside this country's borders - on dealer's shelves or sold on the Internet to U.S. customers!

The question of legality is indeed a very, very problematic one.

 

Again, I point to these quotes of yours:

 

WRONG, WRONG, WRONG!!!!!!!!

2, If your city, town, county, shire, state or nation require a "vehicle inspection" - normally done yearly to catch those with worn tyres, etc. - YOU WILL FAIL WITHOUT FUNCTONING HIGH BEAMS! Essentially, you might receive a "citation" - such as one gets for speeding - and in many areas, one must then prove to a magistrate or DOT (Department of Transportation) that the "repair" has been made.

 

Where *I* live, this means the vehicle must be "made right" by a certified mechanic - who will install the exact same headlight bulb the owner should have (or an upgraded "bulb") - and certify this on the sale receipt that this has been done - ONE CANNOT DO IT BY THEMSELVES - THEN the owner must appear and present the paperwork, THEN get the vehicle re-inspected .

 

And yet again, I simply ask the following question - how would you reconcile what's highlighted, of what you'd written, highlighted in blue, with what you'd then written, later, highlighted in red?

 

How would one be able to "make right," given that the said "certified mechanic" would note that you, ScoobieDoobieDoo, do not have a proper DOT setup, on your particular plug-and-play (which, for those who are interested and reading this little side-circus of ours, is for a '98, which is a reflector/fresnel setup, not that of our BL/BP, for which a less-than-knowledgeable mechanic/inspector may pass-off as being "gee, is that OEM?"....no-one's going to mistake a reflector/fresnel setup for a DOT/SAE HID setup)?

 

Is your "certified mechanic" not so certified? Or is your inspections not all that you painted to be?

 

Furthermore, legality carries many shades - it's not a black-and-white concern.

 

Certainly, you can't just up and import some heroine into the US, ordering it off the Internet from another country, and expect the shipment to show up, via DHL or FedEx or the USPS, on your doorway the next week, without some legal issues....

 

But there are many, many "gray market" imports that do violate certain of our laws, but, yet, can still easily be imported (with varying levels of repercussion and trouble), despite there existing laws against their import and/or use.

 

"Plug-and-Play" HID kits fall into such a category.

 

Similarly, the utilization of either such lighting systems, or, alternatively, using DOT-approved OEM HID components to perform a full-optics retrofit, or, in the case of this thread, using "off road use only" aftermarket (or not-for-purpose) overwattage bulbs in-lieu of what's supposed to be in our setups, "by Hoyle," is yet treading on another such gray area of the law.

 

The truth of the matter is simply this:

 

By-Hoyle, no, it's not "legal." Not at all.

 

But enforcement varies on many factors, both objective as well as subjective.

 

In breaching these laws, we, as the individual vehicle owners, are, by-the-books, in the wrong, and can be made to face remedial actions.

 

Seriously - back on HALOGEN BULB lighting - I *know* what it is and still use some - just not in the main headlights for the Sube - but I **DO** need to replace some HI beam halogens in the wife-mobile and was told on another brand forum that *THE* hot set-up for HI beam headlights is a pair of PIAA "Intense White" bulbs. NOT the "Xtreme White" but the "Intense White". Bulb is a 9005 ...

 

SEVERAL people have said these are the brightest, "white" color bulbs approaching the look of "those other" types of bulbs on the market.

 

More than likely, it's just completely placebo effect/ownership pride.

 

All that's really different about those bulbs is simple color rendition.

 

It is possible, however, that these owners/users may subjectively "take better" to the light color produced by this particular bulb, but as each of our eyes/brains respond differently from the next persons', there's simply no way to cross-validate this.

 

Me, for example, my favorite color rendition comes from the Us-market Sylvania SilverStars.

 

I *perceive* them to be very bright.

 

However, at the same time, objectively, they simply fail to produce as much usable light as the 65 watt Osram Hypers.

 

Take Stern's advice on the PIAAs to-heart:

 

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/superwhite/superwhite.html

 

What's physically impossible is simply physically impossible. The laws of physics don't change.

 

It's our perceptions that do.

 

Yes, PIAA does make some great stuff - their aftermarket lighting elements as well as silicone impregnated windshield wipers are highly favored by many enthusiasts.

 

However, in terms of their "output" claims, it's pure marketing.

 

If you can stomach the extra dollars, give the bulbs a try. Your/your wife's eyes/brains may truly "take better" to whichever colors they produce, and that may be the advantage that you're looking for.

 

[ Aside: Honestly, PIAA's bulbs are no longer "the hot thing" when it comes to incandescents. HIRs, currently, lead this aspect of the envelope. ]

 

---

 

Personally, I carry a spare set of important bulbs for the wife-mobile (9005's, 1156A's and 1157A's) tucked away in the spare tire cavity. If a headlight pops, I won't be driving "half-blind" for long.

This is always good practice, and is something that I've done for all of my vehicles since I started driving. I go so far as to make sure that even my rental road-trip vehicles are so equipped.

 

Instead of expensive bulbs, I would simply look for something reasonably priced, but known to be durable/reliable.

 

Many aftermarket "performance" bulbs trade-off, for lack of better words, "brightness" for burn-life, and also, many are sub-standard, when compared to the OEMs, in terms of Q/C (the Sylvania SilverStars are a good example of this high variability - check *ANY* car-enthusiast Forum/community, and you'll find this to be the case).

 

It would do you very little good if the bulb you're putting in for an emergency failed, too.

 

GE has a fairly new line of extra-power or extra-distance halogens - they claim 30% "brighter" - called "Nighthawk" and these have instant appeal simply because you'll probably be able to find them everywhere ... and GE stands behind their products like a rock. Better than Sylvania SilverStars?

The GE Nighthawks are far from "new."

 

They've been available since early 2005, and gained popular acceptance and knowledge by early 2006. A simple search on our Forums here should show this, as also a simple search on Google or other similar search engine.

 

To the best of my recollection, these were rated, across autodom (not just in any one particular application) as being comparable to the US-market Sylvania SilverStars, with a similar mix of reviews, pro and con.

 

I would, based on both of your immediately previous assertions above, begin to look elsewhere for your research of "hot" automotive lighting knowledge. Whichever sources you're getting this information from, it's tremendously out-dated.

 

The color will sway me one way or the other ... because I just hate the yellow or non-white look of halogens - almost ALL halogens - after driving with the ORIGINAL, FACTORY HID's on the wife-mobile (Acura TL Type S).

If this is the case, that you're very biased based on color rendition, you should stick to the HIDs. Currently, no good solution for approaching such "true-white," without at least some loss in absolute lighting output, has been found.

 

The Osram Nightbreakers may be more up your alley, due to their color rendition (and also based on performance), but as they lack "raw power," you may find that the color-rendition trade-off (which is due to coating of the glass in order to produce the "white" light) to be unacceptable.

 

The Phillips NightGuide ( rated #1 by Autobild )may be another option.

 

But I'd like the very, VERY best 9005 halogen bulb for the wife-mobile and those PIAA's sound pretty good.

If this is the case, then seriously, you need to get over your misconception of HIRs:

 

Noted. However ... the HIR-1's and -2's are ....

 

1. Hard to find - and getting harder as this is a discontinued product. Great idea; GE "dropped the ball" by not engineering it for the automotive industry.

 

1a. EXPENSIVE!!! WOW!!!!!!

 

2. Not a true "direct replacement" for a 9005 - or any other 900X series; the dimensions are not the same.

 

3. Fragile. Illuminated, they are suceptible to premature failure due to on-the-road automotive vibrations.

 

Having just tossed my "dinosaur" 9007's, I'll stick with my heavy-duty hi/lo 35W HID's until there's something CLEARLY better out there.

 

to which I replied:

 

^ Those are good points, all.

 

The direct-replacement issue is a biggie. Even though the base modification required is truly minor and easily effected (even with only common household/gardening snips), there are those who would be unwilling to purchase the item because of this factor.

 

As for bulb/element fragility, I'm of the opinion - as with higher-than-stock powered vehicles - that you've simply gotta "pay to play," and that there is a trade-off to be made there. So far, I haven't found my set to be any less reliable/durable than many of the "brighter" aftermarket direct-replacements out there. Whether this factor will hold-out will be something that only time will tell, since the GE (with its high failure rate as an OEM piece in select applications) was phased out so early in its product-life (please note question below). So far, of the Scooby owners I know who have the Toshiba, none have reported problems, and some have had their bulbs since 2004.

 

As for the discontinuation, only the GE HIR1/2 were discontinued, the Phillips ("hybrid") as well as Toshiba HIR1/2 (9011/9012) bulbs are still actively on-market

 

 

----

 

Have you tried the HIR's for a high-beam replacement? They are pretty white and really freakin' bright for a halogen. I've still got those in my Subie, although I'm going to eventually change them out to the "other" lights as well since at the moment not all of my lights match color-wise which is just goofy looking. Not sure if they make them in 9005, but that sounds right...might help the wife-mobile. They are cost-intensive, though, so the GE's might be a better option...dunno. Just another option.

 

See above.

Edited October 3, 2008 by TSi+WRX