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understand what the coilover's job is intended to do.. look at the style it's designed and understand why one is designed differently than the other, which will help you decide what fits your needs..

 

dont let spring rates fool you, as they are known to do that from time to time to people.. also do some research on the valving of the shock (which is the real back bone of the suspension to keep you as connected to the road as long as possible).

Keefe
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I agree with understanding the valving of the shock. My application is mainly competition autox with some track. As I'm reading descriptions of all the different coilovers, the basic features don't seem that hard to compare. I plan to start with a monotube shock that will adjust compression/rebound together and linear springs. I'm looking at Ksport or Megan to start with. So now I need to look at how each one can benefit my application.

 

The two pieces of data I feel I can use are shock dyno and spring rate. My understanding is that the shock's adjustable range will determine what spring rates best suit the shock. But if the shock can be valved to match the spring, that lead me to think that I need to know what spring rates will work best for my application. This makes sense to me since I've always thought the spring is what's doing most of the work when cornering while the shock prevents it from oscillating.

 

The only other criteria I have yet to research is reliability and servicability. I don't want to get stuck with a coilover that need constant repair and very difficult to send for rebuild.

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The Megan site did not mention specifically, but Ksport Kontrol Pro's product page says: "The dampening adjusts compression and rebound simultaneously for ease of adjustment" JIC also specifies: "the dampers have 15-way compression and rebound adjustability"

 

I guess I can see why the spring rate might be of lower importance. If tuning the shock and spring is an ongoing process after the coilover purchase, then selecting a coilover is really just comparing which shocks has the right features for the application. That will lead to the purchase decision followed by shock and spring tuning.

 

So if we take away the spring rate and valving criteria, I then need to ask questions like: What is the diameter of the shock? What valving technology is used? What type of gas or liquid is used for dampening? Rebuild procedure? What is the max length of travel? Is this the direction you guys were hinting? Anything else you guys would recommend comparing?

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what about best overall daily driving ride comfort? will it never be as plush as stock?

 

I think the DMS coil-overs with variable rate springs front and rear and top notch dampers will come very close to stock as far as comfort goes.

 

IMO variable rate springs FTW for best compromise between comfort and performance, and of course you need exellent shocks.

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For drifting.................. what would you experts recommand ? as cheap as possible. It's my daily drive, stock everything now, on the high way alot but i'd like to learn to do drifting.

 

weld your rear shocks and weld your rear diff to full lock.

 

if you're serious about learning, you dont need anything, you just have to learn how to drive the car. Once you understand car dynamics, you can drift anything, and I mean ANYTHING, without any mods needed.. the mods just make it easier to control the car (but you need to learn how to control the car first).

Keefe
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For drifting.................. what would you experts recommand ? as cheap as possible. It's my daily drive, stock everything now, on the high way alot but i'd like to learn to do drifting.

 

lol, buy a 240? Might be easier to learn on a RWD car..

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What's the saying 'sell snow to eskimos' ?

Yes they advertise, but test them on a dyno and it is less than 2% differentiation from full hard to full soft on the compression side. It is much easier to control rebound strokes then compression. I apologize, it does on paper change both settings, but in reality you would not notice.

 

Again, this may vary SLIGHTLY from company to company with typical sub 2000$ suspension kits.

 

I have to add about the 240sx for drifting .... what about a RWD conversion that we offer ? heheheheheheheheheheheehehehe I am the devil !!

 

-mark

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lol, buy a 240? Might be easier to learn on a RWD car..

i crashed my 240sx this March. only drifted in rain and snow(in front of a cop car.lol)

weld your rear shocks and weld your rear diff to full lock.

what do you mean by weld ? i find Megan coilover fit my budge, will it help me learn control of my car?

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I have to add about the 240sx for drifting .... what about a RWD conversion that we offer ? heheheheheheheheheheheehehehe I am the devil !!

 

-mark

you seriouse !?! that's more like D1 style. I can't imagine what it'd be like to have all the power to the 2 rear wheels.

 

is it possible to switch between 2wd and 4wd with your conversion?

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i crashed my 240sx this March. only drifted in rain and snow(in front of a cop car.lol)

 

what do you mean by weld ? i find Megan coilover fit my budge, will it help me learn control of my car?

 

I think Zenonk was kidding about welding your rear struts (at least I hope so). Drifting an AWD car on pavement is not for the faint of heart or the inexperienced. It's easier on low traction surfaces such as dirt/gravel/snow, but if you want to drift D1 style you really need a RWD car.

 

If you are dead set on drifting your LGT I can do a custom stiffer spring rate on a set of Megan Racing coilovers for you that will make it easier to step out the back end of the car.

 

As for the 2WD conversion that MSI is talking about, it is not something that will allow you to switch back and worth from 2WD to AWD. They are talking about permanently making the car 2WD.

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For drifting.................. what would you experts recommand ? as cheap as possible. It's my daily drive, stock everything now, on the high way alot but i'd like to learn to do drifting.

 

 

You are better off buying a RWD car to learn how to drift. AWD cars would not be your first choice of cars to drift in.

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are you saying AWD is Undriftable ? even if i put shitty tires on rear ?

 

Get a really big rear swaybar, you'll spin your car out...so I guess if you can control it..you'll be good.:lol:

 

Who thinks a "I spun my car into a ditch" thread is on the horizon?

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You can't spin the rear tires of an AWD while the front just roll at road speed. Having an even distribution of power is kind of the whole point of AWD, drifting is not. Frankly, I hate to be the one to suggest this, but I'm guessing that Lie495S14 can't be more than 18 years old, and even that is debatable.
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