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Intake Advice


The Don

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Didnt see anything about it but.. If you get a CEL with an intake.. what do you do. And should i get an AP before for can i get it after the intake...Thinking either K&N or the SPT.. Still looking for sound clips of both on the car. Thank in advance
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Cobb doesn't recommend an intake with their tunes

you have to get protuned if you are runnin intake with Cobb's canned map

Perrin BIG maf intake

Perrin Turbo Inlet

HKS SSQV BOV

Megan Racing header with UP (ceramic coated)

HKS DP (WRX)

DMH E-cutout

Custom 3" catback

UTEC

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TDC stated to me I'd be ok with Cobb stage 1 93 octane and my K&N intake as long as I use good gas.

K&N with the stock tune is fine. That's what K&N designed it for. TDC said if your worried and want to run a safer map, use the 91 oct.

Protuned is the way to go. Getting it done is another issue.

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I dont yet have an AP so.. GTTuner are you saying that i can get it with out the stage 1 map..Or that its better to get a stage 1

 

your not going to feel much power with an intake. your getting noise. however I do believe you will get more power with a custom tune. if you want big numbers swap out the up pipe and down pipe.

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i understand the K&N gives like 10-13 whp and im looking for a more agressive sound as well...I have an 5EAT so i figured why go with a UP/DP..And where I am..I dont really have any shops that will custom tune

 

ARC...All I saw was a shift knob???

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i understand the K&N gives like 10-13 whp and im looking for a more agressive sound as well...I have an 5EAT so i figured why go with a UP/DP..And where I am..I dont really have any shops that will custom tune

 

ARC...All I saw was a shift knob???

 

Check out the TDC power packages.

 

http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36021

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If you're going for just the aural pleasure, then by all means, go for an aftermarket intake.

 

However, don't expect any seat-of-the-pants-"able" differences. Any "felt" differences, particularly on either stock EM or off-the-shelf EM that's not specific for the intake is more than likely psychological, influenced by the more aggressive intake-tract and BPV sounds.

 

And honestly, I'd say that the claimed 10 to 15 wHP increases are more to be based off a custom/semi-custom tune, specific for the intake. You're likely to see much less than that with either the stock EM or with an off-the-shelf, "generic/canned" map.

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

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^ With the Typhoon, on a stock EM LGT, the above scenario is rather unlikely, I'd say....

 

However, any time a CEL is elicited, you should at the very least pull the code and verify what the code says.

 

It's very, very unlikely that your MAF will actually get "messed up" from the installation of the Typhoon, unless it was *way* over-oiled at the factory - and even then, cleaning the MAF element and/or the intake temperature sensor bulb should restore full function, without permanent harm.

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

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I was using the stock tune with my K&N. I had an MBC and was running more boost across the rpm range (about 2 psi above stock). I did have a big improvement with that set up, but then I chose to buy the AP. With that, I eliminated my MBC and FCD, and just used my intake. ALL I could do was Wooo Hooo at what the AP did for my car. Yes, the intake sounds nice, and in a stock tune I measured approximately 10 flywheel hp improvement and about 20 with the boost management. The AP blew those figuires away. I ran my first high 12 sec 1320' with the AP last winter when I purchased it. In short, the AP was the most significant mod I did.

 

The Typhoon has a slightly smaller diameter inlet that stock does, bit it is also alot longer. I know TDC says the K&N flows more air, period. They were skeptical because of the smaller inlet tube, but my theory was K&N was tuning for velocity.

 

Picture this, take a three foot section of 3/4 inch heater hose and blow thru it. Then take a 1.5' tube and blow thru it, you will get the idea of velocity vs runner length vs inside diameter. Generally speaking, the longer the run, the smaller you want to go to keep the air velocity up. I have HVAC training, and when we would install a hot air heating systen in a house, we had to take that into consideration.

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Yes you can!

 

The Typhoon is our most tested intake and it gives consistant readings so we can tune for it.

 

Here is the thing with intakes, the less power you are making the less they will do for you.

 

If you think of the engine as a gigantic air pump it is constantly sucking in the air it requires to get the right power in Air Fuel mixtures.

 

Now the stock box is created with plenty of ability to pull in the right amount of air. If you throw on an intake on stock you are basically feeding the engine more air but not advancing fuel really since it is stock ECU tuning. So you run a little lean. As you increase power with mods you require more fuel to make the power the engine now can endure.

 

The more mods you put on the more fuel it needs and hence the more air you need. At a certain point you really shouldn't run the stock box anymore b/c you need the increased flow and draw that an intake can provide.

 

The problem is that you need to really be pushing some power to out-do the stock box. I would say that you could get away with not putting an intake on till at least a 20G with FMIC and even then it might still work it is the piping that gets in the way of the box so you need to go intake.

 

So as for power gains, there wont' be much and it all comes down to the tune. You can't just throw one on and expect great gains like a honda.

PM Me for all your Modification Needs!
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I was skeptical about K&N's claims, but my G-tech is a great tool to see if your going in the right direction. The intake alone was marginal, but as I said before, once I put it all together it was a measurable power increase both on the computer and the seat of my pants. I wanted more, so I bought the AP, and I'm working on getting a protune. I trust K&N and their engineering.

 

The air pump anology is the best way to look at it. Remember the old days when someone would throw headers on their Chevrolet, but not change the carb or intake manifold? All they did was make noise....and probably lost some low end to boot. Same result, just high tech now.

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The only annoying sound is a hissing at part throttle up to 4K. If you dump it to the wood, it has a nice "Boxer Growl".

 

If you liked what you old carb equipped car sounded like with the airlid flipped, you'll be happy with it.

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Yes you can!

 

The Typhoon is our most tested intake and it gives consistant readings so we can tune for it.

 

Here is the thing with intakes, the less power you are making the less they will do for you.

 

If you think of the engine as a gigantic air pump it is constantly sucking in the air it requires to get the right power in Air Fuel mixtures.

 

Now the stock box is created with plenty of ability to pull in the right amount of air. If you throw on an intake on stock you are basically feeding the engine more air but not advancing fuel really since it is stock ECU tuning. So you run a little lean. As you increase power with mods you require more fuel to make the power the engine now can endure.

 

The more mods you put on the more fuel it needs and hence the more air you need. At a certain point you really shouldn't run the stock box anymore b/c you need the increased flow and draw that an intake can provide.

 

The problem is that you need to really be pushing some power to out-do the stock box. I would say that you could get away with not putting an intake on till at least a 20G with FMIC and even then it might still work it is the piping that gets in the way of the box so you need to go intake.

 

So as for power gains, there wont' be much and it all comes down to the tune. You can't just throw one on and expect great gains like a honda.

 

Well said.

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At first I was running a manual boost controller set to 16psi, a Turbo XS fuel cut defender, and the Typhoon. The Typhoon was the last thing I ordered and I saw an increase from 290fwhp to about 300-312 flywheel hp improvement.

 

I ditched everything but the Typhoon, and bought an AP. I am currently using Cobb stage 1 93 octane map, and it in consistanly above 310 flywheel HP and have see a peak of 366hp.

 

The AP, Dollar vs Power, was the best mod by far. If I did it again, the very FIRST mod I would do is the AP. I just received my Protune from TDC this morning. I'm going to flash the ECU tonight and see how it runs.

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