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Xtecs are IN read for installation tips!

psucaptainkickass

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psucaptainkickass Veteran

psucaptainkickass

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So, I probably should post this with PDX-LegacyGTs thread, but I figured this would have more visibility.

 

The Xtec's are IN, and I must say, they are great!! Mad props to both PDX-LegacyGT and scans007 for their walkthroughs, and a shout out to pp540 for some insight in how to deal with some cables.

 

So now, the install run down.

Everything went fairly smoothly, with only a few choice trouble spots. The air box and battery came out easy enough. Doing this is HIGHLY recommended, you will need the space to work for sure. So here is where things get a little tricky. From what I could tell, I was going to place the rubber grommet for the Xtec's in the hole where the stocker's rubber grommet is. To do this, you must realize two things: The Xtec's rubber grommet is shaped in the opposite direction as the stocker, AND the Xtec's rubber grommet is no where near far enough down the wires away from the bulb to fit in the stock location. For me, I had to push the grommet all the way down to the other end, down to the black rubber that covers the black and white wires. But note, that WASN'T far enough. I had cut some of the black covering and trim it away. I subsequent re-wrapped the wires with electrical tape to prevent further ripping of the black tubing. Because the Xtec grommet is bigger than the stock one, you really don't have to worry that the Xtec grommet is in the reverse direction. Just jam it in there. The grommet is big enough that when it protrudes through the stock grommet hole, it will hold itself in place, and you don't have to worry about it coming loose.

 

The second trouble spot was the black end cap on the bulb. From what I can tell, the only reason to crack this open is so that you can move the connector from inside the stock location (inside the dust cover) to outside...through the stock grommet location. Anyways, you don't need two people to crack it open. What you need are two paper clips. Basically, take a look at the black clip. On each side there are two tabs that are placed over like a small outcropping (don't the a better term). Well what you need to do is get the tabs over the outcropping so you can open the hinged end cap. Simply unfold the end of a paper clip, and jam it in there, under the tab. The tab is shaped like a U so you can put the paper clip in under the curved part of the U and have it stick out the open part of the U. Do that on both sides, and the tabs hold themselves open. Then just get your nails in there and pry it open. I moved the bare wires out of the stock location and reattached the black end cap on the other side.

 

Third trouble spot. Getting the HID bulb connectors through the stock grommet locations. They WILL go through. The wires are stiff for sure, and they will look kinda funky after you are through, but work at it. You definitely need to work at it for a bit before they will go through the hole.

 

 

Anyways...those were the major trouble spots I could tell. I have some concerns that maybe someone could answer.

 

1. My ballasts were making a audible hum when the lights were on. This is only able to be heard if you are outside the car near the engine. You can't hear anything while driving or inside the car....is this normal?

 

2. I placed the ballast on the driver side on the washer fluid tank like PDX. It's fairly snug in between the tank and the metal piece that the battery sits on....is there anyway to zip tie it down?? Right now it is wedged in there with the double sided tape. I think it is fairly secure, I just want a second layer of protection.

 

3. My HIDs don't turn off when my HI-beams are on. Not really a problem since I don't use hi beams all that often, just wondering if this is normal, or if I forgot to wire something up correctly.

 

I also removed the intake silencer....and HOLY crap!!! The car sounds really really sweet. Its got this gutteral, almost muscle car sound to it. At first, I was like what the hell there is no difference, but then I romped on it a bit, and DAMN. Between 3 and 4.5k.....its a beast. Love the sound...don't know if I will keep it permanently, but I was too tired to finagle that bulbous POS back into the hole under the air box, so I took it off. Is this what the SPT intake will sound like? I take it there is no silencer for that either.

 

Pics:

Before

IMG_1085_s.jpg.6390d91f5d6b2ee75fc95229cb0a6d05.jpg

IMG_1093_s.jpg.1cfc925aceb04c8c0b5c9b9db25e6ea9.jpg

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fatbastard Mentor

fatbastard

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You suck.....I had just convinced myself I didn't need HIDs since the stockers are pretty damn good. Then I see your pics and stock no garbage can...HIDs blue garbage can.

 

As for the high beams, that is normal. You don't want the HID's switching on and off since they take time to come on and warm up. The only thing you may want to check is if the headlights are off and you flash someone, which lights come on. If it is the high no problem. If it is the lows, it would be a good idea to rewire this if possible or just make sure you don't do it. HIDs use less energy once they are on but he inrush current is pretty high to get the arc going.

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psucaptainkickass Veteran

psucaptainkickass

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That is off the hook!!! Nice job!

Do you plan on keeping your foglights off all the time?

 

Yeah, I generally run without the fogs on. I might get the always awesome PIAA Crystal Ions, or Ion Crystals...whatever they are called, but still, I would get it more for inclement whether than to rock them out all the time.

 

 

Now if/when you have your headlights apart, fill in the rectangular hole in the metal cutoff shield to eliminate the glare/yellow spot above the cutoff line. :)

 

-Mike-

 

Ah..so that is where it is coming from. It's there with the Halogens, but its a little more apparent with the HIDs....

...that said, I don't have any plans to clear my corners or do angel eyes or anything, so I guess they stay..haha.

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CreoSTi Mentor

CreoSTi

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Ah..so that is where it is coming from. It's there with the Halogens, but its a little more apparent with the HIDs....

Yeah, it's a lot more prominent with the HIDs installed. The light above the cutoff line looks small/insignificant when parked near a wall, but when I stood ~25'+ away, the lights had a lot of glare. So, I took them apart and filled in the hole. This is what it looks like now;

 

http://www.mcnproductions.com/lgt/exterior/hid1.jpg

 

Not as good as VXCL's, but it will do until I find the time to retrofit S2K projectors. :p

 

-Mike-

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RobE Grand Master

RobE

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Yeah, it's a lot more prominent with the HIDs installed. The light above the cutoff line looks small/insignificant when parked near a wall, but when I stood ~25'+ away, the lights had a lot of glare. So, I took them apart and filled in the hole. This is what it looks like now;

 

http://www.mcnproductions.com/lgt/exterior/hid1.jpg

 

Not as good as VXCL's, but it will do until I find the time to retrofit S2K projectors. :p

 

-Mike-

 

I was looking to get rid of the light above the cutoff line as well. How did you fill in that hole?:confused:

http://newenglandsubarus.com/
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CreoSTi Mentor

CreoSTi

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I was looking to get rid of the light above the cutoff line as well. How did you fill in that hole?:confused:

 

Just take apart the headlight using the method to "clear" them, remove the screws that hold the projector to the housing, and take the whole projector assembly out. Then just dissasemble the projector (another few screws), and it should all come apart into separate pieces (1. reflector, 2. cutoff shield, 3. projector lens).

 

To fill in the hole, I used some exhaust repair putty that I picked up at a local ACE/Tru-Value hardware store.

 

-Mike-

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psucaptainkickass Veteran

psucaptainkickass

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Just take apart the headlight using the method to "clear" them, remove the screws that hold the projector to the housing, and take the whole projector assembly out. Then just dissasemble the projector (another few screws), and it should all come apart into separate pieces (1. reflector, 2. cutoff shield, 3. projector lens).

 

To fill in the hole, I used some exhaust repair putty that I picked up at a local ACE/Tru-Value hardware store.

 

-Mike-

Basically, take everything apart, once that is apart, take those pieces apart. Finally, take those pieces, and take them apart...hahaha...

That is one of the reasons I am shying away from the task! :icon_bigg But it does look nice, so I guess the juice is worth the squeeze.

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CreoSTi Mentor

CreoSTi

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Basically, take everything apart, once that is apart, take those pieces apart. Finally, take those pieces, and take them apart...hahaha... That is one of the reasons I am shying away from the task! :icon_bigg

 

If you can't remove a total of ~12 screws once the headlights are apart (~6 in each housing), then definitely do not do this. ;):p

 

But seriously, it really isn't difficult once you get the headlights apart to fix the cutoff glare. Everything on the inside is just screwed together, making assembly/disassembly quite effortless. Even taking the headlights apart isn't too bad (just take your time). I've taken apart the headlights on my old '03 WRX, '04 STi, and now my LGT and I've never had a problem with any of them. :)

 

-Mike-

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