CFar Posted March 30, 2006 Share Posted March 30, 2006 Hello all, Its been a really long time since I've put any kind of speaker into a car and never had to deal with a line out converter before. I need to use one to keep the price down and because of the fact that I want to keep the stock headunit. So my questions: 1) If I run the rear speaker wire into the LOC, how do I get power back to the original factory speaker? (The amp I will be getting doesn't support anything but mono sub) 2) Can I run the speaker wire straight from the trunk instead of right behind the head unit? (Few wires to run through the car) Thanks for the help, Im sure Ill have more questions later. Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rao Posted March 30, 2006 Share Posted March 30, 2006 1. Tap the speaker wires, don't cut them 2. Sure. You can also tap the rear speaker wires in the trunk and make it all a lot simpler. Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CFar Posted March 30, 2006 Author Share Posted March 30, 2006 Will that overdraw the stock stereo by just splicing in a wire? Also, 3) Can I use some "vampire" clips to splice them in? Thanks Rao Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rao Posted March 30, 2006 Share Posted March 30, 2006 Not at all 3. Yep. Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CFar Posted March 31, 2006 Author Share Posted March 31, 2006 Great, that should be all for now. Thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoman Posted March 31, 2006 Share Posted March 31, 2006 Will that overdraw the stock stereo by just splicing in a wire? Also, 3) Can I use some "vampire" clips to splice them in? Thanks Rao Chris I would be careful. If you wire the speaker in parallel with the LOC, you will be cutting the impedance in half (assuming LOC is 8 ohms). A lower impedance will pull more current from the amplifer and possibly cause damage. I'm not sure what the impedance of a typical LOC is, but if it's low (under 1k) I would not recommend wiring in parallel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rao Posted March 31, 2006 Share Posted March 31, 2006 The LOC just needs a signal and it is deisgned not to disrupt the original signal. I have had my sub wired this way in this car for 18 months and inothers for longer with no problems. Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CFar Posted March 31, 2006 Author Share Posted March 31, 2006 The LOC just needs a signal and it is deisgned not to disrupt the original signal. I have had my sub wired this way in this car for 18 months and inothers for longer with no problems. I have one more question for now that may have been covered before. What do I splice my remote wire into with the stock stereo? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rao Posted March 31, 2006 Share Posted March 31, 2006 That is a good question. Normally you would use the power antenna wire, but that is turned off when you witch to a CD. I ended up tapping into the key on radio power wire. The diagrams have been posted I think and I don't recall the exact wire. Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CFar Posted March 31, 2006 Author Share Posted March 31, 2006 That is a good question. Normally you would use the power antenna wire, but that is turned off when you witch to a CD. I ended up tapping into the key on radio power wire. The diagrams have been posted I think and I don't recall the exact wire. I found some info in the FAQ on the top of the screen about the pinouts for the Subaru stereo. Is the +12 volt ACCESORY the right one to plug into? (showing a yellow/red combo for 05 Subaru's) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rao Posted March 31, 2006 Share Posted March 31, 2006 You will need to test it with a multi-meter, but I think that's right. You want something that is hot with the key on and not with the key off. Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boulderguy Posted March 31, 2006 Share Posted March 31, 2006 Check out the PAC (http://www.pac-audio.com/default.asp) "trunk LOC." This will make your install much easier - it's signal-sensing, meaning it will turn on the amp when it hears a signal thru the speakers. You won't even have to take the CD player out of the dash. They make respectable stuff and it's cheap on Ebay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rao Posted March 31, 2006 Share Posted March 31, 2006 That's a great idea! Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGT Posted March 31, 2006 Share Posted March 31, 2006 Look at Rob go....the audio Q&A guy! Good answers all around. Chris - we are doing an install day next weekend if you want to come out, I'll be happy to give you a hand (presuming you are not working that is). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CFar Posted March 31, 2006 Author Share Posted March 31, 2006 Check out the PAC (http://www.pac-audio.com/default.asp) "trunk LOC." This will make your install much easier - it's signal-sensing, meaning it will turn on the amp when it hears a signal thru the speakers. You won't even have to take the CD player out of the dash. They make respectable stuff and it's cheap on Ebay. Great. I was thinking that for someone so inclined, making something like that would be easy but I just ordered a normal one from Crutchfield. Might have to return it if I can find one of these for a good price. Thank you. Pat, I'm off that weekend and should be there. Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CasopoliS Posted May 9, 2006 Share Posted May 9, 2006 bump... I just ordered a Stinger adjustable LOC. It has a Left and Right input, both adjustable. So I can tap into the rear L and R speaker wires and be all set.... These are easily acessible from the trunk on the sedan? Would they be the same color of wire as they are at the radio harness? I am going to run a small wire along side of my power wire when I run that all the way back. I plan on using a 12v accessory source under the dash somewhere.... anyone have a schematic to any of the connectors near the driver's feet? I am still searching.... I know it has to be somewhere on here... Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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