robust Posted January 14, 2006 Share Posted January 14, 2006 so i guess i 'galled' the bolt and nut on the top of the lower front right strut flange. the nut and bolt just turn without much resistance. guess what the dealer wants to charge, though it is a heft one? 8.xx for the bolt, 7.xx for the nut. are there options to just buying it from the local dealer (oem or not)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobY Posted January 14, 2006 Share Posted January 14, 2006 Drill That sucker out and put some grade 8 hardware in there. Then you can tighten that thing till your face turns blue. I plan on doing that when I get a chance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robust Posted January 14, 2006 Author Share Posted January 14, 2006 would they have them at someplace like ace? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobY Posted January 14, 2006 Share Posted January 14, 2006 How many are broken? You can probably find grade 8 hardware anywhere but not in metric just SAE. 5/16 is a pretty close match its actually slightly bigger. Just drill old one out and use an SAE nut and bolt combo. You dont really have to use grade 8 stuff if you dont want to but If you are anal like me and never ever want to have this problem again go with grade 8 hardware. You will probably break the socket or your rachet before you break a grade 8 bolt. You can probably find regular bolts in metric sizes not as strong but it will do. It will probably be stronger than stock it seems like they used pot metal to make those strut tower bolts I think the strut tower bolts are either M7 or M8 and might be a direct replacement. Let us know what you do cause I see this happening to alot of people and it might be a good refrence to those who accidentaly damaged their strut tower bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robust Posted January 14, 2006 Author Share Posted January 14, 2006 i think we're thinking of different things here. there was recently a thread about the tophat ones getting stripped but this is the huge ones that affix the A-arms and brakes and all to the strut. i drew a picture in paint using this crappy laptop and its touchpad. (read: really really bad representation [the one which would go in the hole marked by the red arrow]) the head of the bolt accepts a 19mm socket so it's a pretty beefy bolt. are there any vendors online that can source oem subaru parts for cheaper than a dealer could? if not, i guess it's 15 for a bolt and a nut cuz i can't drill out that size. thank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobY Posted January 15, 2006 Share Posted January 15, 2006 Holy crap... How the heck did you gall that one? Your gonna have to get that one from the dealer the top one is a cam bolt and adjusts your alignment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aczwild Posted January 15, 2006 Share Posted January 15, 2006 i think we're thinking of different things here. there was recently a thread about the tophat ones getting stripped but this is the huge ones that affix the A-arms and brakes and all to the strut. i drew a picture in paint using this crappy laptop and its touchpad. (read: really really bad representation [the one which would go in the hole marked by the red arrow]) the head of the bolt accepts a 19mm socket so it's a pretty beefy bolt. are there any vendors online that can source oem subaru parts for cheaper than a dealer could? if not, i guess it's 15 for a bolt and a nut cuz i can't drill out that size. thankWork out a little too much. I hear you with stripping shit out. I got lucky that I didnt strip any bolts while I put the Strut tower bars on, but I have sheared off a few with other installations. For those bolts though I think you have to hit the dealer JDM'd All to hell Thanks Jimmy @ Hkc-Speed.com! RIP Coxx & Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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