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Pinch bolt wont tighten - Changing control arm


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I'm attempting to change out my front control arm. The pinch bolt took a bit to loosen with the impact gun and I gradually got it loose but didnt remove it because I decided to do the repair another time due to the weather.

When I try to re-tighten the bolt, it'll almost tighten but it'll just spin instead of tightening.

Anyone have any insight into this? Does it sound like the threads inside got stripped? I know it's hard to tell without seeing it for yourself or without me taking the bolt out.

 

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16 hours ago, 2012 Legacy H6 said:

Do you think the threads inside could've gotten stripped? Or just the bolt threads?

Only one way to find out...  worst case is the knuckle is stripped - some folks have sourced longer bolts and used a nut on the end

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5 hours ago, DrD123 said:

...some folks have sourced longer bolts and used a nut on the end

I had to do it on an Outback. Snapped the bolt and had to drill it out. Not something I ever want to do again.

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https://www.subaruoempartsonline.com/oem-parts/subaru-steering-knuckle-28313ag030?c=Zz1zdXNwZW5zaW9uJnM9c3VzcGVuc2lvbi1jb21wb25lbnRzJmw9MiZuPUFzc2VtYmxpZXMgUGFnZSZhPXN1YmFydSZvPW91dGJhY2smeT0yMDEyJnQ9My02ciZlPTMtNmwtaDYtZ2Fz

 

That pinch bolt is a common issue. if your going to remove the knuckle, you might fine id easier just to buy a new one. Maybe by now the local auto parts have them for less money.

 

Years ago when the trusted mechanic had an issue with my car, it was cheaper just to get a new one, they were $114 at that time. it was cheaper than paying the labor to have it drilled out.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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1 hour ago, Max Capacity said:

https://www.subaruoempartsonline.com/oem-parts/subaru-steering-knuckle-28313ag030?c=Zz1zdXNwZW5zaW9uJnM9c3VzcGVuc2lvbi1jb21wb25lbnRzJmw9MiZuPUFzc2VtYmxpZXMgUGFnZSZhPXN1YmFydSZvPW91dGJhY2smeT0yMDEyJnQ9My02ciZlPTMtNmwtaDYtZ2Fz

 

That pinch bolt is a common issue. if your going to remove the knuckle, you might fine id easier just to buy a new one. Maybe by now the local auto parts have them for less money.

 

Years ago when the trusted mechanic had an issue with my car, it was cheaper just to get a new one, they were $114 at that time. it was cheaper than paying the labor to have it drilled out.

This is the way to go, don't spend hours drilling out the bolt, order a replacement knuckle, and buy the pinch bolt from Subaru since the knuckles usually don't come with the bolt.  

#LGTSTi is still cheaper and nicer then an equal year wrxsti

Follow my 2007 Spec B. Build here

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On 9/2/2024 at 11:47 AM, DrD123 said:

Only one way to find out...  worst case is the knuckle is stripped - some folks have sourced longer bolts and used a nut on the end

Thanks for the response. To install a new ball joint into the control arm, does it have to be pressed in? I've seen some videos where people install ball joints and they don't have them pressed in. Thanks.

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The ball joint does not need to and should not be pressed in unless you are using just the weight of the vehicle, but you may need to use a wirewheel or a dremel to clean up the cup that the ball joint sits in to get rid of all the built up rust/corrosion in the cup, but not to aggressively to change the shape of the cup if that makes sense.  You want it to sit in there snuggly without any play. 

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#LGTSTi is still cheaper and nicer then an equal year wrxsti

Follow my 2007 Spec B. Build here

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The pinch bolt is what hold the ball joint in. There is a slot in the ball joint, where the bolt slide through.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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