cbrianroll Posted May 18 Share Posted May 18 Hi everyone, been a while since I’ve been on. My son ended up with the car, naturally being hard on it….it now won’t start. I don’t have all the info yet as I need to poke my head in but I do know when the key is on the on position, the fans turn on for around 4 seconds, turn off for 4 seconds for as long as the key is on…there is also some ticking that does similar. Un hooking the battery for an hour did not reset anything. I know that is vague but I’ll put the code reader on and see if anything comes up after work. I’m not the best troubleshooter and he has little money to throw at it, so I am hoping someone knows of things to try or maybe it’s just a “get a new ecu”. Thanks, appreciate your time… Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 Fans and relays cycling sounds like someone was under the dash and found the green diagnostic connectors and plugged them together. They should not be connected for normal use. When they are connected the computer does some diagnostic tests to help find problems without a scan tool such as cycling the fans and cycling other relays so you can hear them clicking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrianroll Posted May 19 Author Share Posted May 19 That is interesting. Car was dead so the battery is charging….next step sounds like I should look for a service manual to find those wires. thank you much! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 I believe they are the only green connector under the dash, all others being different colors. I am not 100% sure of the location model to model and year to year, but have a look near the OBD II test port and also on USDM above the passenger kick panel. I think the FSM may be visible in some of my friend's vacation pixs on this site. You should be able to find his thread with the search function. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 If you need the FSM, links are posted all throughout the forum. Just in case it is the test mode connector, here is the specific page from the FSM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrianroll Posted May 19 Author Share Posted May 19 Awesome, thanks. I located it last night and the two green plugs were plugged in. As far as we both know it has been plugged in since we’ve had the car. Unless someone did something he doesn’t know about. I forgot to say the car just died while he was driving. battery should be charged by the time I get home tonite. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 Alternator? Battery only starts the car. Generator supplies power when running (and charges battery). If battery dead and car died while driving need to check alternator. Car not running battery should be 12. With car at idle should be 13.9-14.4v (depends on temp and a few other factors). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrianroll Posted May 19 Author Share Posted May 19 Would the fans and relays be acting funny though? I’ve never had that happen with a bad alternator…but that only happened once in a 81 Toyota up… Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrianroll Posted May 19 Author Share Posted May 19 This did happen after he installed an amp and capacitor…not right away, but…. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 Test mode connector should not have been connected. The fans cycling is normal when the test mode connector is active. Possibly something happened electrically with the addition of the amplifier and capacitor. The amp draws most of its power during higher volume levels and lower frequency extension. When this happens the amp drains the cap instantaneously. The cap then "recharges" for the next instant drain. This puts a large strain on the charging system. I dont know any installers who have recommended caps for years. Last time I used one was pre-2010. High out put alternators and a second battery are the way. The OEM alternator in your Subaru is notoriously weak. I had to upgrade alternators in every Subaru I have installed a system. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrianroll Posted May 19 Author Share Posted May 19 Glad you are here to help! I will be removing all that stuff tonite, unplugging the connector and seeing how it cranks, clicks, etc. Sounds like he should get the alt tested at the least but add a high voltage one. I told him not to use the capacitor, but what do I know lol. He’s learning the hard way… Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 If I added up the cost of all the stereo equipment I have purchased in my lifetime I could probably have paid for Harvard. LOL. Tech changed too, so some of the "rules" changed with it. The wiring for an amp and cap is not difficult and it if was working, it most likely is wired fine. But it could be more load than the existing alternator can handle. It is fairly inexpensive to acquire a really strong amp these days. What would have cost $2k in 2000 is $200 today (output wise). Not too many options for Subaru in HOA that wont break the bank. Maniac Motors no longer offers their upgrade service. With a multi-meter you can test most of it. With a good battery the car should start as long as the alternator is not seized. I dont recall if that year had a fuse off the alternator, if so definitely check that. Its a 20+ year old car and it could be anything. Sometimes it can be difficult to offer good advice remotely. There are several members (still) here that are knowledgeable and willing to assist. This was my 2003 Forester. Custom HOA. Second battery in the well. Enough bass to cause the rear view mirror to eject and then crack the glass while driving at freeway speed. A car purchased for $1500 that had over $25k in upgrades in it when I sold it for $3500. Cars are not an investment, they are toys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrianroll Posted May 19 Author Share Posted May 19 Ha, nice. I better not show him that or he’ll get ideas..he’s only running dual 12s on 250 watt amp….enough to cause an issue with a wonky alt I’m sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 With a Subaru, that could be enough, lol. Current ongoing project is my 4Runner. I have been lazy. Sitting on a second matching bass amp and a second set of 12's (want to go quad again). Already installed all the wiring and the secondary battery holder under the hood. Need an alternator (like $600, ouch) the second battery and to build a new box. Already have the box plans drawn and modeled. Bass, it never ends. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrianroll Posted May 19 Author Share Posted May 19 Nice, with that many you will auto rock the car seat lol. I’ve been out of the really loud stuff for a long time. I run a single jl audio 12 in a sealed box and 500watt amp, I think the same as yours but only a single output, in my xterra. It shakes the mirrors but I’m not supposed to do that as I have hearing loss…oops. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 Whats hearing? Its all about the tactile affect. If your vision is blurred and you can feel the karate chop in your throat your getting close. I gave up on trying to hear my music around 1990. Cant hear it, turn it up. Cant see it, get a bigger screen. I ran two of the 500watt single channel Rockford amps for a bit trying to find the right combo (each amp powered a single JBL 12"). I have one with just a few hours of use on it sitting in the box if anyone is interested, lol. The dual JBL 12's became 6. I found a "better" use for them. 6 x 12's and a Behringer amp make my butt shake GOOD during movies. Now my theater has 6 x 15", 6 x 12" and 1 x 10". Concrete shaking, make your whole house blow down like the Big Bad Wolf is outside. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrianroll Posted May 19 Author Share Posted May 19 That is rad. I have legit occupational hearing loss, I hear no high pitches anymore…fairly annoying…and also from the interior damage, positional vertigo or something like that. Not allowed on motorcycles anymore…or tall ladders…that is good for work though lol Speaking of can’t see it, I now have bifocals on top of terrible eyesight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 I dont see doctors much for that reason. All they have to say is "this is broke, that is failing, dont do this/that/the other thing". Guarantee I have hearing loss, but its my fault. I was genetically blessed with crap eyes, near sighted with an astigmatism. Between being an adrenaline junkie kid, racing ATVA, crashing uncountable times racing off-road and the multiple surgeries I incurred doing it... They said i would never ride again and I tried to race again, lol. But I am turning 50 very soon and everything hurts almost all the time. My mind says "yes" and my body just fails. So, bigger speakers, bigger amps, bigger screens, faster cars, bobbers (instead of naked bikes) = smaller bank account and the middle finger to getting old. Let me know how it goes with the car. I will try to check back in over the weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrianroll Posted May 20 Author Share Posted May 20 I didn’t go much until they found thyroid cancer…I don’t go for minor things lol. Progress sorta, the optima he “borrowed” from me charged last night, check voltage after work today and it was down to 7. So needs a battery. Used a donor from the firewood truck and once in, ignition on, fans and relays doing there thing. Unplugged green plug, they stopped. Did it again to verify….same. The good news is it threw a code….P0340-camshaft position sensor. It had no code before. Are those cleanable to test it, until a new one can be delivered? Are these cars notorious for needing oem parts? (My jeep is finicky so I hear) Again, many thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted May 20 Share Posted May 20 Cam sensor would lead to no fire. You could pull it to check for stuff stuck to the magnet. While there you can look over the wires and connector. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted May 20 Share Posted May 20 What Chaz said. I have had the connectors come loose and car not start in parking lot. But never dropped one driving. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrianroll Posted May 20 Author Share Posted May 20 Awesome, will try cleaning it today and clean the connectors, etc. after work today he will be looking at the local parts stores to get a new one, most likely will need to be ordered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted May 20 Share Posted May 20 If there is a fine dark dust magnetically stuck to it you should be able to get it all clean patting it with duct tape. Good in general for cleaning magnets. The step after that is mixing glue with the dust and pulling it off once it cures, but the sensor is no where near that strong a magnet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrianroll Posted May 20 Author Share Posted May 20 Interesting…he got a new part today, shocked they had it as I live in a small town. Will get working on it at some point today. It would be cool to clean it and have it work, but it wasn’t that expensive a part to swap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrianroll Posted May 20 Author Share Posted May 20 Well….new one didn’t fix it…throws same code after clearing….boooo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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