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Hi All - 

tried doing a search for this but nothing really came up that matched what I was looking for. I am replacing a ton of stuff in my car - turbo, intercooler, uppipe, downpipe, exhaust, inlet hose, bpv, injectors, fuel pump, adding fuel pressure regulator. Which lines can be braided lines? I know the turbo and injectors can from research, any others while the motor is out the car I want to replace whatever lines I can to braided ones with an fittings.

Thanks All.

 

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Anything you want can be replaced.  It can be rather expensive and is not always a good idea.  There are several considerations to take.  AN and race plumbing have a place and purpose.  But they are not maintenance free and routing can be "cumbersome" at times.  I have had customers introduce interesting situations running their own AN lines. 

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15 minutes ago, m sprank said:

Anything you want can be replaced.  It can be rather expensive and is not always a good idea.  There are several considerations to take.  AN and race plumbing have a place and purpose.  But they are not maintenance free and routing can be "cumbersome" at times.  I have had customers introduce interesting situations running their own AN lines. 

Then I guess the question becomes what would be worth changing to braided lines as it seems more durable for the longevity of the car? Any sites in particular that you use for the braided lines and an fittings? My concern is NOT money but making sure the car lasts.

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AN fittings and braided lines are not necessarily "more durable".  For the most part the OEM lines and pipes are made to last well over 100k miles and 10+ years.  If you dont have a need for race plumbing, (higher flows rates, pressures, avoidance of heat, etc) I would not recommend them. 

AN stands for Army-Navy.  The plumbing standards were set by joint agreement back in WWII.  The fittings were designed and used in the aerospace industry.  The strict standards relate to aeronautics.  It was later that the fittings were adopted for various other applications.  Consider the amount of maintenance that airplanes receive.  Are you prepared to take care of your car in the same manner?  Is it a race car and the engine will be routinely pulled?  Do you have huge oil and fuel delivery requirements?  Can you fit all the lines in a way that does not increase heat?  I have seen more than a few cars with AN fuel line ran in such a way that it induced vapor lock.  I have seen people grind away so much housing in order to fit the AN fitting that they caused a leak in the head/block/transmission case/etc. 

If you have a need, it makes sense.  Otherwise it is just bling that requires more checks than OE.

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Agree, I would not waste time and money for a street car. I did make up the steel braid fuel and oil lines on the race. Also worked in Aero-Space where I worked with AN fittings, etc. every day. 

I did replace most of the OEM hoses back in May 2012 when I had the engine out, the car had 154,000 miles at that time. I did replace the coolant cross over pipe a second time last Aug, 2022 when I had to replace the OEM oil pan because it rusted and began to leak...on my new garage floor. That was done when the car had 302,000 miles.

Don't be in a hurry to spend your money.

If you're young, do your homework. Your question is a good start.

 

Have you made a list of what you want and put prices for each item with it ?

Unless you can understand Tuning, (open source) you'll want a Cobb AP, $700 for all your MOD's.

The vf52 turbo, catted Dp, Grimmspeed tmic work well together, on stock fueling my wagon made 280whp/300ftlbs on a Heartbreaker Mustang Dyno. I put over 150,000 trouble free miles on that set up. That vf52 was installed at 142,000 on the car, ten months before I decide to keep the car and then did an ej257 short block, ARP head studs, May 2012

You can see my story in my "click here" link in my sig. It has become the poster child for how to do it right the first time. I put a lot of thought and lesson's learned from being on this forum since 2004 into my plan.

 

 

 

  • Thanks 1

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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33 minutes ago, Max Capacity said:

Agree, I would not waste time and money for a street car. I did make up the steel braid fuel and oil lines on the race. Also worked in Aero-Space where I worked with AN fittings, etc. every day. 

I did replace most of the OEM hoses back in May 2012 when I had the engine out, the car had 154,000 miles at that time. I did replace the coolant cross over pipe a second time last Aug, 2022 when I had to replace the OEM oil pan because it rusted and began to leak...on my new garage floor. That was done when the car had 302,000 miles.

Don't be in a hurry to spend your money.

If you're young, do your homework. Your question is a good start.

 

Have you made a list of what you want and put prices for each item with it ?

Unless you can understand Tuning, (open source) you'll want a Cobb AP, $700 for all your MOD's.

The vf52 turbo, catted Dp, Grimmspeed tmic work well together, on stock fueling my wagon made 280whp/300ftlbs on a Heartbreaker Mustang Dyno. I put over 150,000 trouble free miles on that set up. That vf52 was installed at 142,000 on the car, ten months before I decide to keep the car and then did an ej257 short block, ARP head studs, May 2012

You can see my story in my "click here" link in my sig. It has become the poster child for how to do it right the first time. I put a lot of thought and lesson's learned from being on this forum since 2004 into my plan.

 

 

 

I'm aware of your setup Max. Been lurking and asking questions on the forums for a couple years now. I will just ask my builder what can be replaced. Thanks for the input, however I would like MY engine bay in MY car a bit more neat. So if I gotta spend a bit more for quality stuff I'm ok with that.

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