Ignition switch replace 99 SUS limited

[saloisjj]

Hey, I bought my 99 SUS limited sedan back in the summer, the old owner had some kind of starting problem and installed a damn push button to start it. I have to put the key in, turn it to the on position, then hold the button thats hooked up directly to the battery and starter. currently trying to figure out how to fix this.

All i really need to know is if the ignition switch like the cylinder can just be replaced without taking it to a dealer to get programmed or something. I’ve seen the 95 legacy’s don’t have immobilizer chips, but does mine. And could I just replace the whole damn steering column with the switch instead.

Please help with this, been trying to figure out the problem with the ignition switch by talking to the old owner but he doesn’t text me back.

 

Edited January 9, 2023 by saloisjj

[saloisjj]

By the way one other thing if you guys want to help me figure out a different problem. I recently replaced the timing belt and harmonic balancer. Had to remove radiator, once it was all back together and filled up it started overheating, I pressure tested it and no leaks, eventually it pretty much fixed itself (i think it was a damn air bubble) and I drove it a few days just fine. And the first time I drove it on the interstate afterwards the bottom radiator hose pops a huge leak and empties my coolant out. and once the car cooled down the hose went back to shape and didn’t leak anymore. 

I literally have no idea whats going on here anymore god help me this car must hate me.

[doublechaz]

I don't believe there is any brains to the ignition switch in your column.  The problem would be getting a new switch that isn't junk from China.  I think I would go get one out of a junkyard rather than risk a new one.

 

You certainly had an air bubble in yours after the drain and fill.  It takes some effort to avoid this.  Did you leave that lower hose loose putting it back?  You shouldn't have a leak like that.  If you are using a worm screw type clamp you want it tight enough that it just starts to press in to the rubber.  I make mine where the outer surface of the clamp is even with the outer surface of the hose meaning that the clamp is sunk into the hose the thickness of the metal in the band.  Too tight and you will break the male part of the lower radiator connection, too loose and you get a leak when hot.  You have to get the hose on far enough so that the clamp is closer to the radiator than the ridge on the male part.

[saloisjj]

1 minute ago, doublechaz said:

I don't believe there is any brains to the ignition switch in your column.  The problem would be getting a new switch that isn't junk from China.  I think I would go get one out of a junkyard rather than risk a new one.

 

You certainly had an air bubble in yours after the drain and fill.  It takes some effort to avoid this.  Did you leave that lower hose loose putting it back?  You shouldn't have a leak like that.  If you are using a worm screw type clamp you want it tight enough that it just starts to press in to the rubber.  I make mine where the outer surface of the clamp is even with the outer surface of the hose meaning that the clamp is sunk into the hose the thickness of the metal in the band.  Too tight and you will break the male part of the lower radiator connection, too loose and you get a leak when hot.  You have to get the hose on far enough so that the clamp is closer to the radiator than the ridge on the male part.

I wasn’t the one who really tightened the bottom hose so I wouldn’t know but i got it re put back together recently started and ran at a good temp for about an hour, but the moment I shut it off my starter died. decided to replace starter and ignition switch. thanks for letting me know about it though.