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Bad Misfire


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I agree 1000% with you Teh. I catch Scatpacks, Hellcats, and other crazy V8 cars off guard because they always seem to give me the hit thinking I just have shinny mufflers lol. (I polish all items). When they get next to me they always say "I didn't think you had that type of power"

Yes, cars coming or with 400 - 800 stock, we really have no chance, so we have to keep the sleeper status. I still think is really cool to build these cars. i just do not like having a car everyone else has. I see WRX, and a few STi's but no OBXT, or LGTs. 

It so funny when I pull up to meets and you see the normal BMWs, 350z, supra, SRT4, WRX, and then when they see mine their minds are blown.

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American muscle has really made a comeback, especially with these vin diesel movies and the brotherhood of muscle campaign from dodge. Ford has the new crazy coyote motors, GM has the LS and LT motors which both can take well over 700 hp reliably, then you have Dodge and their crazy ass hemi's which is in everything,  I think they are discontinuing hemi's next year. They all can make tons of hp on pump gas with reasonable gas mileage. Seems like the last hoorah before electric and green takes over. 

Then you have all the regular cars with these super automatic transmissions with like 10+ gears, which makes you second guess a clutch cause yea basically they are faster lol. 

So much easy horsepower out there these days, and its not only the hp, its these new transmissions with all these gears and technology which makes a motors hp several times more efficient. The same motor on an old tranny and one of these new ones will make a world of difference.

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  • 2 weeks later...

New buckets finally came, and I also dropped my oil pan finally. Everything looked good no flakes or debris! 

Tunes really rich so I want to clean the cylinders cause I know there is buildup and I didn't pull the heads this time so I need another solution to clean out the sludge. I hear seafoam does the job, anyone familiar with this seafoam? 

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Or do the old Italian tuneup, drive it hard to burn off the carbon.

 

I also agree with B12, walmart for $4.00, I use it yearly, in the gas tank, just because...

 

 

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305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Regardless of label, it should all be the same.  B12 has been labeled as  fuel system additive, engine cleaner and more.  Good ol EPA.  Straight from the horses mouth:

"Berryman B-12 CHEMTOOL FUEL SYSTEM CLEANER (part #0116) is extremely effective in the crankcase for the removal of gum, sludge, and other deposits IMMEDIATELY before an oil change. Because of the amount of cleaning that the product can do, it is not recommended to add it and then drive normally. This is due to the possibility of overloading the oil with deposits. This is not really a concern while idling and letting the oil temperature come up, but excessive deposits could be problematic once load is put on the engine.

If you would like to try B-12 as an engine flush, simply pour into your cold crankcase approximately 1½-2 oz. of #0116 per quart of oil capacity. For instance, if your vehicle holds 6 quarts of oil, then you would use 9-12 oz. of or about two-thirds to three-quarters of one can. After you’ve added it to your cold oil, start the car and run it at idle 10-15 minutes until the oil is warmed up. Then change the spent oil and replace the oil filter."

 

I have done this for over 30 years.  It WORKS. 

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I don't think he's worried about the crankcase. I took it as he'd like to make sure the upper cylinder is clean. 

So he would put a can in the gas tank per the directions on the can.

I have used "Gunk" in the past before an oil change. But haven't used that in many years.

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305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Easy enough.  Add it to the tank per the instructions and it will do its job as you drive.  You wont see smoke like Seafoam and you wont get pulled over, lol.  Senior Capacity is correct in that it is a good maintenance routine to add it to a tank of fuel at least once per year as well. 

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On another note, after finishing my buckets and bolting down the cams I realized that everytime I installed the new cam for the passenger exhaust it was always tight. For example, i can't spin it by pushing on the lobe with my hands, I have to put on the cam gear to get the leverage I need to rotate it, versus my other cams which I can spin without the cam gear.  I'm assuming the cam needs to grind or wear itself down some before operating correctly. It does say to run for 20 minutes at idle, I assumed it was to harden but it may be to seat the cam properly. Wondering if thats by design or an issue?

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Um... you sir probably have a problem.  Cams should spin freely by hand when installed and lubed correctly.  You may have caught a bearing (cam cap) installing the cam and nicked it.  Something of that nature.  Remove and inspect. 

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I'm assuming this is why I have been having all this cam trouble. Hmm, what grit would be good for sanding my cam journals? At this point I'm just going to do what I can, i'm not pulling the heads and doing a line bore, I would rather just do my best and run it til it explodes and start over. 

God I hate overhead cams..... I love me some single internal cams! 

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Contacted BC about the issue. Seems the cams might be on the high end of tolerance and my heads are on the low end which is causing these issues, which makes sense. They want me to measure the ID with the cap torqued down, they will then cut the cam to fit accordingly. 

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Its the rear cam cap, the same one that's been causing me all sorts of issues. It's just tighter, as soon as I took it off it was able to spin freely by hand. 

Why can't I sand the cam keepers? Isn't it the same concept as line honing/boring just not as accurate? Its all the same metal I believe, I don't think the contact surface is different from the rest of it. 

GP?

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I'm now wondering why I pulled the intake manifold back off... Now that I think about it I didn't have to.....this is what happens when you work to many hours and you work on your motor half asleep..... 😑

Hmm I think I can get a 1 inch or so hone kit and hit it with a drill, anyone know what's the journal or camshaft diameter?.... might be the easiest and simplest way. I wonder if they come that small, I would think so, time to search! 

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You CAN NOT Line Hone a cam keeper at home.  It takes a SKILLED machinist to do it as it takes extreme precision to set up the line hone and that is more expensive than replacement. 

There is a reason good shops are hard to find and they want to be compensated for their work. 

 

GP = Good Practice

Edited by m sprank
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I would think you'd want to reach out to Mike at www.AZPinstalls.com His shop is in northern NJ, not to far from you.  You can tell Mike I sent you. He may remember me, I bought my vf52 and had him send me the oil pump he would use for my build, back in the day. I've sent a few other members to him too.

 

I'm sure he could recommend a good shop to you if you don't have one.

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305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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