Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

Bad Misfire


Recommended Posts

If i'm doing a leakdown.... like you said motor probably has to come out. So pulling the motor today, not even going to bother troubleshooting anymore, somethings fcked! I was moving the car into the spot in my driveway where I work on it, then it just died and wouldn't start, like the starter lost all its teeth. Just hoping its the head and not the block. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can't make this shit up..... my exhaust camshaft snapped just like I had suspected...... my cam cap bolts for the back caps for both the intake and exhaust were all loose as well. My starter also snapped and thats why i couldn't start. I don't know wtf is going on at this point. 

Everything was torqued to spec cause I snapped a bunch of bolts to learn that lesson, so I know it was torqued to spec. Is this increased spring force causing issues? Who knows! 

20221016_141618.thumb.jpg.b97a87c513266b9cbe42be81d34f79bd.jpg20221016_141516.thumb.jpg.83abee4829c6171bf8ccbf022b8ed3dd.jpg20221016_141518.thumb.jpg.c2be7bef68d3ed4d83d7b5440262cf09.jpg20221016_143929.thumb.jpg.458ccceaa0fca3906fbeaab918dd6841.jpg20221016_143923.thumb.jpg.e6b07b3b1338d17738ab7da6a14c99f9.jpg

  • Confused 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oh it snapped cause the rear cap bolts came loose, the cam caps were very loose, like I could wiggle them, to the point where I am going to use loctite on them this time around, probably was oil on my bolts or in the threads. Going to inspect the driver side some time as well. I know they were torqued to the 14 or 15 ft lbs. Motor is fine, camshaft snapping is actually a positive lol! Cause as soon as it snaps valves stop moving so no interference, just hope all that backed up pressure, oil and fuel didn't bork my piston rings, but I doubt it, seems like it was just pushed back into the intake manifold. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Im vibrating bolts out everywhere, the cam cap bolts, my starter motor bolts, and some other things I noticed when pulling the motor. I feel like I own a harley davidson lol. I'm just glad I don't need to pull the heads. I emailed BC to see whats up, hopefully they send me a new one like last time. And now I need to find me a used starter motor as well. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Infosecdad said:

Is your engine seized at this point?  I can't come up with any other reason for both of those to be snapped.

Not seized, car was running fine on 3 cylinders (not fine, but could start and drive), until my starter motor bracket sheared and basically fell out. So the part about it not starting again was unrelated to the cylinder 3 misfire, but does tell me that the overall vibration of the motor/car is a lot more and I am going to need to loctite blue everything. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very rare for a Subie to snap a camshaft.  Lubrication, interferance, torque are the normal checks.  

 

This vibration you mention is rather worrisome.  Situation certainly sucks. 

Edited by m sprank
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think the stiffer springs and bigger lobes are putting larger forces on that camshaft which worked out the cam bolts. Going to clean the bolts and bolt holes out with brake cleaner to make sure there is no oil, and put a dab of loctite blue this time around.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Were any other parts reused?  Valves, retainers, etc?  Check them all.  I would drop the pan to check. If contamination, replace oil cooler at a minimum. Hope for the best.  Normally a snapped cam would lead me to diassemble everything. But if no load, it might be ok. Ugh. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The valvetrain has less than 2k miles on it, I haven't changed any parts since I started this build, but everything was new except for several valves that needed to be changed when I had the heads rebuilt the 1st time, since then everything is the same except several buckets from when I adjusted the lashes. 

Will drop the oil pan, I don't think contamination occurred, the break was very clean, like brittle metal just snapping, so I don't think there were many extra particles, but your right better to be safe than sorry.  

I think oil in the cap cover bolt holes gave me false torque readings, add that with the extra forces and bolts backed out allowing the camshaft to bend under load. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmmm jb weld? Which epoxy or putty could I use to fix this? The break came from the other bolt coming out and forces being applied front to back. So if I glue it back and loctite my engine/tranny bolts, there shouldn't be an issue cause the forces the starter motor puts out are left to right, and the thing cant spin. I'm gonna try a 10 dollar something before I drop any more cash, worst case I gotta pop the clutch... 

What metal is the starter motor? Anyone know the best way to glue that back on? 

Just gonna use jb cold weld, 6 bucks.

20221017_074459.thumb.jpg.063adf675dd7c6c56996c6fcb67daa67.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have my old starter in a box in the shed. It has that big external wire that broke. I've been keeping it as a core charge some day. I think there was a $20 core charge on the replacement years ago, I just didn't think it was worth taking it back.

 

If you want it, maybe I can meet you half way. 

 

DSCN9947.JPG

DSCN9948.JPG

DSCN9949.JPG

  • Thanks 2

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Forgot about car part.com! Just checked, they got a ton of used ones near me for 25-35 dollars, a lot cheaper than I thought they would be, was expecting around 100, but for 25-35 thats a no brainer.  Thanks for offering! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

33 minutes ago, JoeInOregon said:

What a bummer man , every time I start getting the bright idea I can rebuild a engine I see a post like this and am reminded I have no place going down that road 

Honestly if you were doing a simple rebuild you probably wouldn't run into my troubles. My troubles stem from trying to go a different route than most people. Normally, you just slap on a big ass turbo and some injectors and your fine on the stock valve train. But my focus is more on higher rpms, which is why I am having a lot of issues. The stiffer springs and bigger lobes means I have to stop thinking oem and start thinking high performance. 

Not many people run aftermarket cams , let alone stage 3 racing cams, so don't use me as a measuring stick! Plenty people have done simple rebuilds with great success. These cams have no business being run on the street, BC said as much, you go to the website and it specifically says racing, while the stage 2 is street/strip, but I am going to make it happen regardless

After I rebuilt the shortblock myself its been holding up like a champ, these last issues are from not properly understanding the extra strain from the added resistance from the stiffer springs. 

The reason performance companies charge big money is because they go through all this nonsense to learn the small secrets and nuances, things they don't put in youtube videos and forums, call it tricks of the trade or industry secrets. For example I am thinking I may want to torque down my rear cam caps a bit more, but not sure if the bolt can take it, therefor I gotta see how much an oem bolt can take otherwise I may look into seeing if there are aftermarket options. I am also going to add some kind of threadlocker to make sure the additional vibration forces from the more aggressive valvetrain dont work the bolt out. Ive been using oem standards but like I said I need to rethink some things. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I love BC.... another cam is on the way..... looks like I got another 25 cents to continue LOL! 

I still need to pull the cam cover for the driver side, if the same bolts are loose then its a vibration/force thing, if not it's probably an oil in cam cap threads thing. Thats what i'm thinking atm. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Driver side is fine. New cam comes today. So I think that cam cap which I buggered a while back was the issue, so going to use threadlocker on it, cause I'm not getting a new head, so I gotta make do. 

Still need to drop the oil pan, but from the looks of the oil it seems fine. 

Can I reuse these cam seals? they literally got like 100 or so miles on em.... i don't wanna go all the way to the subie dealership... They look like they are in good condition, whatever , LET IT RIDE!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are you running GSC stage 3 (intake AVCS) ej255/257 cams?  Beehive springs?  Ported head?  Clearanced for lift?

 

Are you shooting for north of 8000rpm?  Drag car?  700whp range?

 

You need something like the TiC FU cam bolt kit. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use