Master/Slave Cylinder - Subaru OEM vs Aftermarket.

[nebula72]

Hello All

I'm getting ready to take on a clutch job for an 09 LGT and I will be changing out the master/slave cylinders as well.  When calling the dealer, I was quoted $180 for the master and over $200 for the slave.  When checking online sources like Rock Auto, I can get a complete setup for under $100 for both.  

I normally like to go with OEM but the price difference has me thinking twice.

Has anyone used aftermarket master/slave cylinders with success?  Are the OEM cylinders really worth triple to 4 times the price.

[m sprank]

Dealership mark ups are higher than online vendors.  However, in my experience you get what you pay for.  There are dealerships selling parts online at prices lower than the MSRP you were most likely quoted as well. 

At my shop, we had too many issues with aftermarket OE brake boosters and master/slaves so we used OEM only.  Even aftermarket rotors and pads were misfits many times and we had to advise the supplier on the correct fitment.  My WorldPac rep called at least once a week to verify Subaru part fitment with me prior to selling to other shops. 

[apexi]

(Begin unhelpful reply/not what you asked)

At 100k on what you think is the OE clutch, I'd replace the clutch and inspect the clutch fork first first before spending $400 on new OE master and slave cylinders. Unreal that an oem slave cylinder now goes for over $200 and rockauto sells exedy ones for $16. From what I've read here over the years, that's pretty good mileage out of a clutch on these cars. I got rid of my '09 legacy with 262k and it still had the original master and slave cylinders, though at 150k I did notice seepage from the hydraulic hose crimp so I had the dealer replace that.

With that said, m sprank being a former shop owner would probably have a much better idea of how long these parts typically last before needing to be replaced.

 

 

Edited September 15, 2022 by apexi

[nebula72]

yea im doing the clutch as well.. have another post asking about that mess (engine pull vs tranny pull)

[m sprank]

For a clutch, pull the tranny, not the engine.   I NEVER pulled an engine to replace a clutch.  Standard 5MT/6MT clutch replacement time was 4-6 hours labor.  Could pull off a BRZ/FRS in 3. 

 

Clutch and brake replacement of either the master or slave cylinder was far more rare than other components. 

[nebula72]

The issue we are having is that the car is that its hard to go into gear when idling. I noticed the clutch will not start to disengage unless you are completely on the floor and pedal feels real weird (mushy and dead).  We bled out the system and it seemed to help for about 20 miles but it came back again.. I'm thinking its either the hydraulic system or possibly the clutch fork is bent/cracked.

Luckily I have a lift in my garage so I have room to work.  I'm just not familiar with AWD systems as the extent of my clutch jobs are limited to old school American Muscle Cars.

Edited September 15, 2022 by nebula72

[m sprank]

Remove the slave.  Manually manipulate the fork.  Broken fork, broken pivot, broken pivot mount, broken spring in the clutch disc, broken flywheel finger, the list goes on....

 

Without asking questions, or having any other info my gut says its not hydraulic related. 

[nebula72]

Will do what you suggested this weekend..  Also going to see if i can run a video scope down the fork area to see if any cracks/failures are visible.

Thanks for the advice!!  Ill update the thread this weekend.

Edited September 16, 2022 by nebula72