2009 Legacy GT Clutch/Fork Engine Pull or Tranny Pull?

[nebula72]

Hello all.

A few months ago, I got my son an 09 Legacy GT 5 speed with approx 100k miles.  Last week he started having issues where the clutch pedal is mushy and is hard to engage into first while stopped and idling.

We changed the fluid and we are planning on doing a master/slave cylinder replacement this weekend but I have a feeling that the clutch fork may cracked/failed.

Although this sucks, I am kind of looking forward to working on this really cool car with my son.

If we end up having to do the fork, we might as well do a clutch/flywheel.

I'm thinking about doing the engine pull method but wasn't sure if having the turbo would make it more messy vs a tranny pull.

If we needed to do a timing belt, I would definitely lean toward the engine pull but the belt just was done at 100k miles.

I have both an engine hoist and and a 4 post lift in my garage so I can go either way.

Just wanted to get all of your opinions on a tranny vs engine pull for a turbo car clutch replacement.

Also, if we find that the fork has failed, are there any recommended aftermarket forks that may be more heavy duty?

Thanks so much for your help.

 

 

Edited September 12, 2022 by nebula72
added some more facts

[apexi]

I don't have much to add, but over the years it seems like the TOB always wears out before the actual clutch disc. Subaru finally addressed this a few years ago by putting high temp grease in their bearings. So I'd spring for an oem tob over an aftermarket one, or whatever comes included in the kit. 30502AA121 is the turbo one.

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/MC-10150949-9999.pdf

[Max Capacity]

You can click on the click link in my sig to see what's involved in pulling the engine, 

I'm thinking, at this age, your better off to pull the engine and do some other replacement parts while it's out.

Heater hoses.

oil return hose from turbo

Check for valve cover leak

How old is the clutch ?

 

There is a sticky at the top of the tranny forum, check it out.

 

[Max Capacity]

 

[silverton]

Having done it both ways a few times, engines moreso than transmissions, the transmission is far easier to remove for a clutch job.  knock the bj out of the knuckle, 2x4 to brace the caliper against the body to pull it away, places the end of the axles near the rear control arm bushing and well far out of the way, driveshaft comes out easy peasy, drop that bitch out.  You do have to take the intercooler out either way to get at the pitch stop. OH! And remember that pesky radio ground, weight of the transmission DGAF about it so be mindful.

If you do plan on doing engine work at the same time, you're better off pulling the engine.  Anything you're gonna do to it is a million times easier outside of the bay.

[nebula72]

Thanks so much for the input!!!  The hoses/lines look great.  The car appeared to be garage kept by the first owner and very well taken care of.. the engine bay looked new which is one of the reasons why I jumped on the deal.. I imagine the clutch is original.   This weekend I'm going to try to put a scope in the bell housing to look at the fork for cracks.  Will also look over hoses/lines look before making a final decision.

 

[JoeInOregon]

I had it done but they pulled tranny, I opted for billet fork and pivot ball was only 100 bucks over oem 

[JoeInOregon]

Also if you end up doing the clutch itself ditch the oem dual mass flywheel and going with a WRX single mass, will thank me later 

[nebula72]

Where did you end up getting the fork and flywheel?

[seanyb505]

Flywheel is just the oem wrx one. If you like your local dealer go there or just Google the part number, though shipping may make you want to be friends with the local dealer. 

[JoeInOregon]

22 hours ago, nebula72 said:

Where did you end up getting the fork and flywheel?

I got them both from my local tuner who installed them , flywheel was oem WRX like posted below , I will find my  invoice later for brand on the fork and pivot ball if you like 

[JoeInOregon]

Worth mentioning it you will need matching clutch as well so if you already purchased the clutch probably a no go but man so worth it.

The feel is way better on the single mass and the WRX flywheel is a fair be lighter also.

 

When I first had it done car was bone stock and drivability was great still , no downside as far as I'm concerned . 

 

The stage one clutch and WRX flywheel was perfect and it's what my tuner uses on his rally car, he said anything 400hp or lower it is a perfect combo

[JoeInOregon]

Torque Solution 

 

Is the brand prices have gone up like everything will cost you about 200 for fork and ball but it will never break lol lot of people have suggested it's over kill and trany will break first but it does happen and I paid to have mine done so the idea of paying for another clutch job because of the fork was worth the extra money to me 

 

 

 

[Tehnation]

I would say that the fork doesn't have a real middle ground meaning its either working or broke.  100k miles on original clutch? I would say its probably the clutch going and not the fork. 

Do you have to pull driveshaft to move the tranny back? I can't remember 

Ive done both, tranny and engine. If its the 1st time your pulling the clutch and you are going to change the flywheel, I would move the motor, if your just changing the disc and pressure plate then maybe just do the tranny. Those stupid torx bolts on the flywheel are no joke and you need some room. Also consider changing the flywheel bolts to the wrx regular bolts, toss that torx shit in the garbage. 

You can easily inspect the fork from the top of the tranny, just pull the intercooler and them pull that rubber boot and shine some light in there, if you have some kind of borescope even better. I was trying to do basically surgery through that hole at one point trying to get the clutch fork retaining clip installed without pulling the motor or tranny..... i failed miserably but I can tell you that you have more than enough room to do a proper inspection of the fork. Move it around as well with your hand and you can feel whats going on as well. 

And if your doing all that stuff, don't forget you need a pilot bearing as well..... at that point you might as well do a thorough inspection of that rear main seal as well, so maybe have the necessary tools and parts to do that while your in there.  

[m sprank]

Late to the party, but...  never pull the engine for a clutch replacement. Ludicrous amount of extra labor, fluids, parts required.  

 

As for flywheels, that's owner's discretion.  I prefer the single mass, but have had to go back in and re-install dual mass set ups after customers were not happy with the change. To each his own, and I stopped recommending single mass to all customers.  Dual mass has its place (especially in heavy traffic).