Tehnation Posted September 9, 2022 Share Posted September 9, 2022 So I did all this work to the car, and for a while now I was wondering why my car wants to leave so damn hard, to the point where its a pita to engage the clutch smoothly. I always thought I was slipping the clutch, but now it seems after 1k miles or so, the clutch is broken in and now I am pretty sure I can hear and feel the front tires chirping. I thought it was the clutch shuddering but its my tires. I don't know whats going on with the rear wheels, I'm not sure if they are moving with the front or doing nothing. Is this a problem???? I have a spec stage 3+ clutch, maybe its to much? I duno much about this subject, anyone care to educate me? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted September 9, 2022 Share Posted September 9, 2022 Subies are not known for burn outs. How much power are you making? The tires can be broken free, but unless they are crap tires it takes some power to do it well. Also, the diffs are not too happy with you when you do it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted September 9, 2022 Author Share Posted September 9, 2022 I'm currently breaking in a motor I just rebuilt myself after getting subpar results from local builders, needless to say its been a daunting task. I have pulled the motor 3+ times and still haven't put 2k miles on it lol. I was making a build to move the power curve to the right to be able to spin to 8k rpm, so I went some crazy ass route by putting bc stage 3 race cams(10k rpm), with manley forged pistons and rods, 1000cc injectors 340lph pump and el headers with my little bnr 20g billet turbo. I haven't gotten to the dyno because I had to pull the motor for a bunch of things, cracked head, then again for a spun rod bearing from the cracked head spewing coolant and shit on my bearings, then again for a camshaft pin shearing from the cam gear.... Its got power I think, hard to say at this point as this has been like a 4-5 year ongoing project, so I have no real reference point atm. I can cruise around 2-4k, after 4k rpm is when it really starts to spool up and I can easily get it over 6k rpm with it wanting more, but I haven't really given it the beans cause its on a base break in tune thats super rich, and its a base tune so I am somewhat nervous to punch it to 7 or 8k. Car says I'm getting 11.4 mpg lol. My tires are about 4-5 years old cause yea less than 2k miles, but they brake and drive fine. The tires don't break free in a nice way, its seems violent like a shudder, like it doesn't want to break the tires and they are trying to grip. I assumed it was the clutch slipping, but it looks like thats not the case. My first thought was the clutch was just biting really hard which may be the case, but like you said not sure how much my diffs like it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 9, 2022 Share Posted September 9, 2022 Unless you have replaced all the bushings and have great suspension... I have stopped trying to spin the tire from a stop. Wheel hop is not good. My wagon will spin the tires if I give it near WOT after leaving the gas station and go to WOT just for straightening out the car after the right or left turn. In cold weather, the wagon will break the tires loose near 6000rpm in 1st gear with snowtires. The other day I could cherp the tires on a 2nd gear shift. Spec 2+ clutch. Unless you have great tune, I would not be going to high rpm's. Years ago, with the first Spec 2+, while waiting for on coming traffic to go by, to make a left at a traffic light, I was lightly slipping the clutch at about 3000rpm, when traffic cleared I dumped the clutch with front tire turned left, the wagon shot straight forward until I let off the gas, then it turned left. But with 305,000 miles I wouldn't be doing that again. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty9 Posted September 9, 2022 Share Posted September 9, 2022 I would say too much of an aggressive clutch, but without a dyno run to see your actual torque hard to say. shoot when I replaced mine I got a "HD" stage 1 clutch that was a) terrible engagement and b) stupid heavy pedal for a street car. that was quickly replaced with a stock oem sti clutch..which has been on there for at least 80k miles. my car was about 300tq at the wheels when it was tuned. So you might want to go back down to a more street friendly clutch... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted September 9, 2022 Author Share Posted September 9, 2022 All my bushings are poly, everything whiteline from steering to rear diff bushings, my entire suspension is raced out, bigger sway bars(hotchkis), kartboy endlinks, coilovers, plus a bunch of cusco braces, pretty much everything they make for 4th gen. Wheel hop sounds about right. I am getting wheel hop when going from stop to start. I have about another 50 miles to go to from my 1k break in on the motor, will get on the dyno in next couple of weeks to see whats up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted September 9, 2022 Share Posted September 9, 2022 Maybe its not wheel spin. Are you running a LWFW with the new clutch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted September 10, 2022 Author Share Posted September 10, 2022 yea lwfw! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 10, 2022 Share Posted September 10, 2022 With my 2+ and lwfw, when I notice I get clutch chatter when letting the clutch out during normal driving, I put tranny in neutral, with engine running even driving, then side step the clutch pedal, letting it slam to the top. I find it only chatters when its been moist, outside air for a while, also find it seeems like I've babied the clutch too much, so a good hard shift under some power will help it too. The clutch is wants to be driven, not babied. Also with bigger injectors, the mpg on the dash will be off. There is a post here from years ago about that and how to fix it... 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pleides Posted September 10, 2022 Share Posted September 10, 2022 FWIW my MPG gauge is still pretty damn accurate with ID1050x. It's all a math equation from your car's injector scaling figuring out how much fuel it needs at any given point in time. Since the factory injectors are about half the flow of my 1050X it's not hard to scale the injector duty correctly when tuning the car to account for that. It's never more than .6 MPG off since it measures in .3 MPH increments and isn't perfect if the car is stock either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted September 11, 2022 Share Posted September 11, 2022 Maybe you are feeling judder. An inconsistant slip between the lwfw and heavy clutch. Most noticeable at initial engagement from zero speed. Try to be nice and it gets worse. I have had it so bad it violently shook the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted September 11, 2022 Author Share Posted September 11, 2022 I think thats what it is! The nicer and gentler i am feathering the clutch the more violent it is. So I have been launching it, and it seems doing that a bunch broke in the clutch better, now its not so bad and seems to be getting better by the day. The clutch disc probably needed to wear itself even or something. How many miles should it take to break in a clutch? I got about 2k miles on mine, seems like its getting better and better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted September 11, 2022 Share Posted September 11, 2022 (edited) It will most likely never go completely away. Some can't get over it, others are fine and accept that it comes with the loss of rotational mass. 2k miles should be enough. If you are happy with the clutch and can accept that for a smoother initial engagement you need more throttle (not nutz to butz traffic friendly) you are good. Edited September 11, 2022 by m sprank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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