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Clutch pedal issue


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Clutch pedal is sinking to floor and gets stuck in gear, would have to pull clutch pedal back manually to get car out out of gear. This would only happen with the car on and trying to drive.
With the car off, clutch travel feels great and as normal as it should. Slave cylinder has been bled, but not sure if all air is out though. 
I did recently had an issue with the clutch fork popping out pivot ball so took the entire motor back out and ended up replacing new throw out bearing and clutch fork while I was in there. 
Car randomly stalls while trying to take off, would need to over rev for it not to stall. Not sure if just clutch engagement issues or something entirely different like fuel. No cel light. 
Any way to verify if I have the clutch assembly on correct. First time installing these clutch, normally only work on the 02-07 Sti/Wrx push? Style. 

Car is 2005 legacy gt 

pics and a quick video below to see if there might be an installation error on my side. 
 

Edited by Phosoup253
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The motor spun a bearing shortly after the clutch was replaced by the previous owner. I did confirm that the clutch/pressure plate and flywheel were new. Unfortunately I do not know the brand so I cannot contact the manufacturer. I was just curious if that amount of play on the fork were acceptable so I can ruled out installation error and focus on the lines and whatnot. 

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Just to confirm, is this how your clutch fork spring is installed? Does this part of the spring point down into where the pivot ball sits? I can't really tell from the pics, and from the video that seems wicked loose. It looks like there's too much play between the ball/spring/fork. The example image is from the pdf file below. (edit: I also wonder if the spring could be worn)

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/MC-10150949-9999.pdf

fork.jpg

Edited by apexi
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I bled the slave cylinder one last time and now I’m not experiencing any issue. Car seems to drive fine for the short time I drove it, now I’m only concern about the amount of play the fork has.

Edited by Phosoup253
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Please reread your last post, I think you're saying you did bleed the slave cylinder one more time and now the car drives fine ?

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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Edit. 
I did one more bleeding cycle on the slave cylinder and was able to get a full clutch and was also able to take the car on a successful test drive. 
I was able to upshift through all the gears and downshift through all the gears. 

My only concern now is I do here a slight chatter while engaging the clutch around 3k rpm and the car would stall out randomly. I can’t seem to mimic the stalling every time, but I’m noticing it more after coasting in neutral and engaging into a gear. 

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With my Spec 2+ clutch, when I feel chatter, I put tranny in neutral, engine running, push in clutch, let clutch pedal slam to the top but removing my left foot from it as fast as possible. I find the chatter sometimes happens when it's damp out, or I drive the car too easy.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I truly feel there’s something not entirely right either with the clutch assembly/install or still work air in the system. 
I haven’t tried bleeding the clutch master cylinder yet, anybody have why advice or tips on how to go about that? 
 


 

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check the preload of the pedal on the master. Use the vacation pics to verify the play in the pedal before hydraulic actuation at the master. I found that loosening the 2 nuts on the fire wall (engine bay side) to bleed the system helps, though this is if you have a power bleeder or something since it gets rid of the ability to actuate the pedal.

 

Wagon is LIFE! - 265,000 miles and climbing

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