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Slight clatter on cold starts.


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I get a light clatter on cold starts that last for 1-2 seconds max.  If I use flood clearing and let the engine turn over a few times then start, it doesn't make the noise.  

After searching around some people say it's normal and not to worry about it.  Could it be a sign low oil pressure?   I plan on installing a gauge in the next few weeks to monitor it. 

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Engine has around 70k on it now.  The last Blackstone used oil analysis came back perfect.  Happens every morning if I don't prime oil pressure with the flood clearing.  No clatter on hot starts at all, only first start of the day. 

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Maybe inspect and clean OCVs? Do you still have the avcs oil feed filter in place?

My friends Honda does this exact thing, and it’s a failing vtec solenoid. Toyotas are also known for this….

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I'll have to take a look at the ocv's.  I removed the banjo bolt filter from the back of the passenger head when I upgraded the turbo.  Not sure of the location on the others,  I'll have to do some digging.

All timing components were replaced about 11k miles ago so hopefully it's not the tensioner.  Would priming the oil pressure have any effect on the tensioner?

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I assume from your handle you have a MY06. Pretty sure if you had a filter in the turbo feed at the back of the block. There is also one in your avcs feed on the drivers side of the block at the front.

It’s behind the timing cover, below the dipstick, more or less. You can just follow the oil feed line back from the OCV.

Not super easy to remove it, or put it back in with all the timing stuff in the way, but there is a thread somewhere by Hammerdown on how to remove

May or may not be your problem, but also not a bad idea to remove it in any case. It’s still on my list of things to do, as I prioritized the turbo feed filter as instructed by my turbo builder.

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Page 7 is where Hammerdown describes his process. Photos don’t seem to have migrated, but the process is all there…

Covertrusssian did the same thing, and the photos here are really useful.

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Oil feed banjo's  Edit, I see it say's 2 downloads, I tried to load the same link twice, two different ways.

60c4bca40385abf60f9bc68bbe2ef4edoil feed banjos.webp

 

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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So I took the screen out of the driver's side banjo bolt, it was pretty clean just a small amount of specks.  Also removed the ocv's and nuked them with brake clean.   

Still does the clatter for 1-2 seconds.  Any other ideas?   I'll keep priming oil pressure before cold starts until I figure it out.

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Where do you live and how long is the car sitting between cold starts?

 

I went on vacation last December and came back with the car having sat a week in the cold. Got a little piston slap on startup. 

 

If you're using synthetic oil, typically it sits in the piston rings overnight and helps prevent cold start wear. Perhaps try using a 0W oil to see if it helps? Also worth checking if your pickup tube in the oil pan is clear of debris.

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I live in CT.  Only time I notice it is when it sits for 8-9 hours or more.  Running rotella 5w40.  I've thought about dropping the pan to reseal because there is a slight leak (not enough to ever hit the ground).

Where is the best place to jack the motor up to get the back bolts off the pan?  

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I had success jacking up the engine at the front of the trans, carefully, when doing my oil pan. Used a block of wood to do so, of course.

You probably already know, but you’ll have to remove a bolt from the pitch stop and remove the motor mount lower nuts to get the require play…

I stuck some 1.5” hardwood shims between then motor mounts and subframe so I could remove the floor jack and have ‘good’ access to the pan bolts. Ymmv…

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14 hours ago, ohno06gt said:

I live in CT.  Only time I notice it is when it sits for 8-9 hours or more.  Running rotella 5w40.  I've thought about dropping the pan to reseal because there is a slight leak (not enough to ever hit the ground).

Where is the best place to jack the motor up to get the back bolts off the pan?  

Gotcha, well I doubt it's getting too cold at night there in the summer. Only been there once last August, but in CT definitely isn't freezing overnight this time of year. Definitely check that pickup tube. How long is the oil pressure light on when you cold start the car?

Edited by Pleides
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14 hours ago, ohno06gt said:

I live in CT.  Only time I notice it is when it sits for 8-9 hours or more.  Running rotella 5w40.  I've thought about dropping the pan to reseal because there is a slight leak (not enough to ever hit the ground).

Where is the best place to jack the motor up to get the back bolts off the pan?  

I would try to tighten the oil pan bolts first before dropping the pan.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I wonder if a can of Gunk Motor Flush might be a good idea before the next oil change... just follow the 5 minute direction on the can.

 

Others of said, from the old days, 1970's and 80's some AFT before the oil change works too, in helping clean up the inside of the engine.

 

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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