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Clutch Master and Slave


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I'm hoping I can get it in without having to pull the motor from the tranny. Which way does the clip go? 

Does the clip come with the fork or no? 

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Yes, the clip on the fork is attached to it. 

 

It's been years, but I thought the clip was part of the fork. 

305,000miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Just got 2 of em from the dealership, I tried wiggling it in but its going to take some real nimble fingers and plier work lol. I dropped it inside a couple times, thank god for the trusty magnet stick, was able to fish it out easily. But from the 1st tries I can see that its possible. I gotta put it on the pivot mount upside down then spin it 180 degrees to get it in the right orientation, then you gotta maneuver it into place without dropping the thing, the clip is shaped like a V and thats its orientation in the car, so if you let it go it falls down.

I'm hoping its that clip that goes between the fork and pivot ball that is causing the dead spot on my pedal. 

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Anyone know if you can get that pivot ball in and out through that fork hole? I know I can probably get it out, but wondering how it would go back in..... 

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The problem is the fork is putting pressure on the ball, so everything is sandwiched together. I can see the pivot ball and get a wrench on it through that hole, but if I move it forward its basically pushing on the pressure plate, so as soon as I pull it out, it would be impossible to get it back in without pushing on the pressure plate. If they made it an inch wider you would be able to change the fork and pivot ball without separating engine. 

I'm gonna have to separate the engine to tranny bolts, and dogbone and hope I can pry it apart several mm's to get some space between the ball and the fork.

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Looks like I found a leak, the line going to the slave seems to be leaking, its got fluid coming out. Looks like the hose is bad. 

So the clip spring probably won't fix the dead spot, but being that it needs to be there I am still going to sneak it in there. 

Going to replace that line and get that clip in. Also going to reinstall my original master and send back all the extra stuff I ordered. 

Can't seem to find this part in the manual transmission section of subaru parts.... anyone know where to find this guy?

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Wow, looks like yours has a pretty sharp bend in it. I wouldn't think that was good.

 

Hopefully the new one will fix your problem. Good Luck.

 

I wonder if the local auto parts store would have a line

 

Here, $19.00

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web/SearchResults?searchTerm=clutch+hose&filterValue=isFitted_uFilter%3AExact+Fit&storeId=10151&catalogId=10051&langId=-1

305,000miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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305,000miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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LOL, I was just about to post that I found one at autozone which I am going to go grab 1st thing tomorrow morning when I get out of work, I work graveyard 11pm-7am.

https://www.autozone.com/drivetrain/clutch-hydraulic-hose-line/p/brakeware-clutch-hydraulic-hose-777622/392273_0_0

That spring clip may be a lost cause lol..... It dropped down into oblivion, so I am going to jack the car up and hopefully it fell to the bottom and I can get it out by removing the flywheel cover. I'm about done trying to get that in there. I found another issue and I am going to focus on that now. Yes everyone, I would rather run it without the spring until the fork explodes! Motor hasn't been run for more than 1k miles without being pulled and overall mileage being like 2k over 5 years! So I am at the point where I assume the motor will be out any day now..... if the hose fixes the dead spot, moving on, period lol! I need to get it dynoed asap cause its running extremely rich, or maybe its the cams that make my oil smell like gas, either way i want it tuned, and pulling the motor by myself again over a 8 dollar clip,  not gonna happen i would rather roll the dice! 

Even with like 3mm+ of separation the fork doesn't give enough room to squeeze the clip in. 

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Its like I turn into the hulk, and just get angrier and angrier and stop thinking straight lol.... 

That clip bouncing around in there has me worried, and if I gotta lift the motor to get to that plate that covers the flywheel then I might as well just go all the way. Gotta go grab the damn cherry picker again.... I'm going to lift and pull the motor from the tranny and fix the fork clip. I'm not going to disconnect any lines, I'm just raising and pulling it forward an inch or 2 or 3

As usual my autozone sucks ass, like 3 out 5 times the site says in stock ready to go at the store, then I get there and duh duh duh, we don't have it , says we have 1 but we cant find it.... went to another store same thing and another it was closed so I just went home and ordered one from amazon. 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GHTLA2A

cheaper and will arrive tomorrow, I was just fed up with my local auto parts stores. In the meanwhile I fix this fork clip nonsense. 

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Anyone know how far you can raise the engine without removing ac lines? I'm trying to get access to that flywheel plate on the bottom between engine and tranny. Its like right above the engine crossmember. 

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It's not much work to lay the AC compressor and PS pump on the fenders, like for removing the engine.  I would think yours would be really easy to unbolt... ;) :hide:

 

 

305,000miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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On 8/1/2022 at 6:48 PM, Max Capacity said:

It's not much work to lay the AC compressor and PS pump on the fenders, like for removing the engine.  I would think yours would be really easy to unbolt... ;) :hide:

 

 

I had to unbolt downpipe, remove the front fans via pulling the top radiator hose, unbolt the dogbone and move it to the side and that was about it. Oh I also unbolted the top two mounts for the radiator, I was able to raise the engine enough to get underneath to get the plate off and I was able to grab the clip that dropped to the bottom. People who want to get to hard to reach spark plugs can use this method, was pretty straightforward. Probably could have done it without the cherry picker but I wanted to make sure I had enough room underneath to work with, if I had jacked it up from the oil pan or tranny it would be in the way, maybe not so much if I jacked it by the tranny, but then I would have all that weight on the bolts and the engine wouldn't move forward.....I guess the cherry picker is the best tool for the job now that I think about it. I don't want all the tension on the bolts and using the picker takes most of the stress.

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I may have to unbolt a couple of the engine tranny bolts to get enough separation to get the clip in from the top without having to pull it completely apart. 

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So my cousin was looking at me juggle my borescope, tweezers and picks trying to get that clip in through the hole, he just laughed at me for 45 minutes and I was like yea, ok lets get to work , cause at that point I already did most of the work for pulling the motor. 

We pulled the motor completely forward, had to pull the radiator and pull all the bolts out. Moved it forward and grabbed the fork put the clip in, greased it and reinstalled the fork, realized one of my tranny crossmember bolts was completely loose, fixed that as well. Also realized I got a big exhaust leak at the downpipe to exhaust connection... so I gotta fix that at some point. 

I put back all my oem stuff, the master and slave, installed the new hose, bleed it and now it works awesome, just the right amount of stiffness and very consistent. It feels completely different, looks like the line was leaking for a long time and was just slowly getting worse.  

If you want to change your clutch its probably easier to move the engine forward than the tranny back I am thinking. Don't have to pull axles and driveshaft,but you gotta collect your coolant in a clean bucket or buy more.  Good to know for next time. 

 

 

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