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Cyl 4 misfire - new plugs


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Yep, stock injectors currently.

I decided to just take it to the shop. If diagnosis determines that it's the injector and not just the seal, then I may take you up on that.

I don't want to spend a bunch of money on this current stock injector setup but I also don't want to jump into the top feed conversion yet either.

 

Yes you do :lol:, come down in this money pit with the rest of us. lol :spin:

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Whelp.

The shop just called me and says that the fuel smell is coming from a rusty spot on the actual gas tank.

Not that this has anything to do with the misfire but it's leaking fuel pretty decently from a rusty tank.:eek:

If I could go back in time and not buy this car, I would have already traveled back.

Anybody ever replaced a gas tank in an Outback?

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Posted (edited)

I just read this:

Flashing CEL = Gross misfire. A DTC is not always stored. The resolution is generally one of the ones listed above.

FYI-The bugeyes were plagued with misfires. Updating the ROM in the ECU to the latest revision from Subaru helps alleviate most false misfire issues. This can be done through the stealership or opensource software.

 

If I have already put a tune on with a Cobb AP I'm already updating the ROM so this should be a non-issue right?

Edited by Mr. Electric Wizard
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  • 2 months later...

Sounds like you’re not afraid of doing a little work. Do the tank yourself and save ~$1K.

Tank is ~$270 right now on rockauto, plus some shipping. Add in a few feet of vacuum line to replace all the rotten stuff your going to find, a bag of SS fuel line clips/screw clamps, and some aluminium bar stock to replace all the brackets that have rusted away….. maybe $500?? Oh might as well throw in a new filler neck, for $80, since it’s going to leak soon as well, if your tank does.

It’s not the best job, but also totally possible with basic tools and a good impact. Did mine in a weekend on a Quickjack. Just seems like a lot of money for a fairly easy job. Put the grabs towards fixing the misfire…..

 

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#4 misfire can also be a broke/cracked exhaust valve. Cyl 4 runs the leanest and has a tendency to burn the exhaust valve. A lot of times people will replace the coil pack and injector and still have the issue. 

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If you want to know if your block is dumping fuel, you remove the oil cap and smell from there. If your oil smells like gas then you got to much gas, or running really rich..... thats what I'm dealing with atm lol. 

The misfire is only one of several things, spark plug, coil pack, injector, tgv or intake manifold gaskets, otherwise #ynansb and or rebuild heads! You might want to do a compression/leakdown test! 

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  • 2 weeks later...

New gas tank is in finally, but the misfire issue remains! 

I think at this point I am going to run some quality injector cleaner through the tank and do a bunch of driving to see if that helps.  Can anyone recommend a good quality injector cleaner?

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6 hours ago, Mr. Electric Wizard said:

New gas tank is in finally, but the misfire issue remains! 

I think at this point I am going to run some quality injector cleaner through the tank and do a bunch of driving to see if that helps.  Can anyone recommend a good quality injector cleaner?

DId you swap injectors and or coil packs to see if the misfire follows? If you swap injectors and and it follows then you found the problem, if not you need to keep troubleshooting! 

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On 8/5/2022 at 8:19 PM, Tehnation said:

DId you swap injectors and or coil packs to see if the misfire follows? If you swap injectors and and it follows then you found the problem, if not you need to keep troubleshooting! 

Same injectors (stock) but I bought a new coil pack (to have a spare) and switched the #4 with the new one and the misfire remained.  I have a buddy that I'm going to take the car to and have him drive it and see what he thinks.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Finally got some of that Berryman Fuel System Cleaner that Max Capacity linked to above and filled my [new] gas tank with fresh 93 octane fuel.  The bucking is still there ~3,500 RPMs but if I baby it past that point and get into the higher revs it flattens out again.  It's like there's some issue right at 3,500 rpm's but before and after that it's fine.  I even drove it on the freeway just now and it was mostly fine.  if I move past the 3,000 rpm's with like half throttle it is fine.

It's almost like it's the WOT that has the issue.  Would that seem to indicate a faulty or dirty throttle body maybe?

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