2001 GT Wagon 5MT - smoking trans at load

[rjnakata]

 

Hi, first post to the forum! It's been with me since '01 and just so good these last 225K.

 

Issue: Under load (uphill pull 4K rpm+ as in mountainous driving) the transmission develops a burning smell.

 

The trans oil level is correct and it can go long distances at +/-3K rpm, but starts smoking under load.

Incidentally I steam cleaned the caked engine oil off (years of minor leaks), and the leaks stopped (!) but the intermittent burning continues.

 

Let me know what added info I can provide. Your insights appreciated!

Edited March 29, 2022 by rjnakata

[doublechaz]

This could be hard to figure out through the net.

 

Does this smoke smell like burnt brakes or does it smell like burnt oil products? Burnt clutch/brakes smells more like burnt electronics than any other hot car smell. Is it visible at all, or just a smell? Just about every kind of leak on a Subaru ends up on the exhaust.

 

If it only does it under heavy load up a mountain, do the engine rpms change at all vs vehicle speed as in slipping clutch? Also, do you drive it very gently the rest of the time so that a slipping clutch could go unnoticed? I drive mine like a racecar so slipping clutch is evident right away.

 

If the smoke is visible and if you can find a way to get it to do the thing and then park where there is a breeze exactly from one side perhaps you can tell if the smoke is coming from more in the front or the middle.

 

If you haven't put a clutch in it for a long time and drive it very gently that is my first theory.

[whitexc]

I agree a little more info is required for us to help you.

 

What is the smell(oil or friction surface)?

 

Rear main seal? Any evidence of fluid in or around the bellhousing?

 

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

[rjnakata]

@doublechaz & @whitexc thanks for the replies, appreciated.

 

1) No unusual clutch slippage whatsoever, No unusual rpm changes etc, smells like burning oil.

 

2) 1st event: long hard drive through mountains: smoke near firewall, 3"d. black oil on ground, low transmission oil level (I then filled it), then lots of highway driving no issues, other than small drip leak.

 

3) Steam cleaned engine (very dirty) to reveal leaks, bolts tightened, ground leaks stopped.

 

4) Now, new leak evident on exhaust, still clean up top. Burnt smell enters cabin at rest (like ever present cold start gassy smell).

 

5) FYI: current 225K, Head gaskets at 101K, transmission rebuild at +/- 170K

 

[/ATTACH][/ATTACH][/ATTACH]

Edited March 30, 2022 by rjnakata

[doublechaz]

I had a trans output seal leak once that would only leak going up mountains so angle can play in to it.

 

But looking at that pic I would guess rear main seal, trans input shaft seal, or if your car is in the year range where the oil separator cover is plastic, cracked cover.

 

All three of those involve splitting the engine from the trans. There is a little inspection plate on the bottom where engine and trans join. I would get that open and look for more info before I went as far as pulling the engine or trans. (Because I pulled my engine on advice that my rear main was leaking only to find that it was fine and the problem was the power steering line down at the rack.)

 

I hate tracking down oil leaks because they can be so hard to pin down for sure.

[rjnakata]

doublechaz: Thank you. "All three of those involve splitting the engine from the trans."

 

Whoa thanks, Is this a vehicle totaling issue? At 225K should I cut my losses? Is this a 300K+ mi. build car?

Edited March 30, 2022 by rjnakata

[whitexc]

If the car is in otherwise good condition monitor and fix when time and funds allow for the car to be down. For a shop, dropping g the transmission to do a clutch and replacing the necessary seals is a few hour job. Not the end of the car.

 

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

[rjnakata]

If the car is in otherwise good condition monitor and fix when time and funds allow for the car to be down. For a shop, dropping g the transmission to do a clutch and replacing the necessary seals is a few hour job. Not the end of the car.

 

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

 

Thanks guys, for some reason I pictured an engine out operation but a clutch change with new main seal is more reasonable.

 

I'll ask different question in a new thread. Much appreciated.

[doublechaz]

I'm at about 310K on mine and I wouldn't dream of totaling the car over an engine out repair. I've done engine out, clutch, burn 4 hours driving around for parts and food and stuff, and engine back in before dark on a Saturday.

[rjnakata]

I'm at about 310K on mine and I wouldn't dream of totaling the car over an engine out repair. I've done engine out, clutch, burn 4 hours driving around for parts and food and stuff, and engine back in before dark on a Saturday.

 

Awesome. I'll stick with it. thanks again.